Every night since I began my quarantine a month ago, I stand at my window — about 10 tall stories above southern Mexico City. Of all the places to “self-isolate,” I’d choose here. I can watch the sunset, then stare out and see the twinkling lights of a million apartments and houses rising up the mountainsides in the distance. There is no better place to contemplate the beauty and fragility of our existence. And the spectacular, precarious, over-populated chaos we all live through in this wonderful monster of a city. And curl up on my sofa, with one of my favorite Mexican books.
But it should come as no surprise that even as I enjoy my home and my solitude, I’m also jonesing to travel. Gazing out the window is great, but it also reminds me of all the places I love, those I’ve yet to visit, and the people I’m longing to see in this miraculous country.
Mexico City is full of passionate readers and beautiful bookstores…I’ll dedicate a future guide to the bookstores themselves!
Fortunately, Mexico is unbelievably rich in forms of cultural expression — many of which I can enjoy from my home! With that in mind, I thought I’d share some of my personal favorite Mexican books. Many of us are struggling right now: with the psychology of isolation, difficult finances, and anxiety over the coronavirus epidemic. For all that we lack, there remains an incredible bounty of cultural richness to explore.
Without further ado, here’s my guide to the books that will transport you through Mexico from the comfort of your armchair! This list is by no means exhaustive or definitive. It’s simply full of novels and nonfiction works that are especially close to my heart.
This novel by Mexican-American author Sandra Cisneros is a wonderful introduction to Mexican culture and history. While perspectives and time periods shift around, it’s written largely from the perspective of a Chicago kid road-tripping south with their parents in order to visit family in Mexico City. It follows this story, along with the personal histories of various family members, introducing you to a remarkable expanse of Mexican life throughout time. Cisneros’ passage while the family crosses over from the U.S. into Mexico is one of my all-time favorites. It perfectly captures the sights, the sounds, the sensory experience of this crossing.
This collection of writings about Mexico City was written at a darker time in history, in the ’90s when crime was rampant and the city hadn’t yet undergone its present-day beautification. Despite these discrepancies, the diverse works of The Mexico City Reader often get at essential qualities of the city. It’s a fun, lively read that will make you laugh and think more deeply about this marvelous place. Don’t skip the front matter, which includes an excellent introductory essay on the city’s development and modern life! (For a deeper dive into Mexico City’s urban history, check out I Speak of the City, by Mauricio Tenorio Trillo.)
Many of you are already familiar with Mexican writer Laura Esquivel. If you spy some Mexican books on a U.S. bookshelf, it’s likely that she’s the author. Her bestselling romantic novel Like Water for Chocolate and its movie adaptation made her a household name.
I like Malinche even more, though! Esquivel was fascinated with Malinche, the indigenous woman who became conquistador Hernan Cortez’s translator and mistress. She’s a polarizing figure in Mexico, at once considered the Mother of the Mestizo (mixed) Race, and the first traitor of the Mexican people. Esquivel dives deep into Malinche’s reality in this fictionalized account, breathing new life and autonomy into this fascinating figure.
A young Mexican-American woman moves to Mexico City in this intriguing graphic novel from Jessica Abel. Her art style is beautiful, capturing urban scenes precisely: markets, bars, city streets and parks, the canals of Xochimilco, the blooming spring jacarandas. The story is very dense, shifting between English and heavily slang-influenced Mexican Spanish. But its unfolding mystery is highly rewarding if you give this book the time it deserves.
If you’ve lived in Mexico for any length of time, this book will make you laugh out loud endlessly. Jorge Ibarguengoitia is widely beloved for his poignant, sarcastic, and often hilarious observations on Mexican life and politics. Instructions for Living in Mexico compiles hundreds of the short columns he wrote for Mexican newspapers in the 1970s.
Despite being nearly 50 years old, these pieces could have been written yesterday. Ibarguengoitia tears apart everything from Mexican bureaucracy to elections, etiquette to small town life. Many have already read Octavio Paz’s famous The Labyrinth of Solitude, which contains some similarities.But I love this book’s exacting observations and clever wit even more.
No novel captures modern Mexico with more unflinching power than Antonio Ortuño’s La fila india. In some ways it’s a shame that no one has translated this powerhouse book. Yet it’s one of those books that probably only works in Spanish, so unique is Ortuño’s use of language. The novel follows a human rights functionary in the Mexican government as she travels to the southern border with Guatemala. There, a horrific massacre of Central American migrants has taken place. The event is fictional, but it’s based on similar real-life killings in recent years.
La fila india takes a clear-eyed look at the ugliest parts of contemporary society: not only the inhumanity of the cartel and the immense suffering of the migrants who cross through Mexico, but also the hypocrisy, apathy, and veiled racism of the educated elite in Mexico City. Of all the Mexican books featured on this list, Ortuño’s masterpiece may have left the most unnerving impression on me.
Another dark yet powerful story comes in this first novel from an action-packed trilogy. The Power of the Dog is the only book on this list from an author who’s neither Mexican nor Mexican-American. Rather, Don Winslow is a well-known American crime and noir writer. When he set his sights on the history of Mexican narco-trafficking, the result was this page-turner, which reads like Netflix’s Narcos: Mexico (but far preceded the series).
Media focus on this issue is often highly sensationalist and graphic. What I like about Winslow’s books is that they remain utterly gripping, yet this guy clearly did his research as well. Names have been changed, but many historical events are quite accurate. The U.S. government’s role in the violence and instability is made particularly clear. Even while focusing on the early days (1970s onward) of the drug war, Winslow extolls Mexico’s sophisticated culture and beautiful cities, not just violence. It’s not a perfect book. However, it’s an entertaining and well-written look at a challenging period in the country’s recent history. It’s the first in a page-turning trilogy, followed by The Cartel and The Border.
The only reason Hurricane Season is listed last is because I haven’t gotten my hands on it yet! I’m including it, however, because Fernanda Melchor is one of Mexico’s most promising young writers. Her short story collection Aquí No es Miami (This Isn’t Miami) explores her native Veracruz, and its current crisis of crime and violence, with a clear voice and sense of irony. Now, Hurricane Season has come along: Melchor’s first book to be translated into English. And it’s already shortlisted for the Booker International Prize! The themes in her previous works are reflected here, on a more epic scale.
I hope this brief introduction to the wide world of Mexican books helps you get through the quarantine, coming out on the other side a little more knowledgable about the country and culture! And with muchas ganas (a strong desire) to visit and explore in-person ASAP. Stay tuned for guides to Mexican film, TV, art, and more in the near future!
*Note: The titles marked with an asterisk are only available in Spanish at this time, without subtitles/translations that I could find. Seek these out if you’re looking to brush up on your language skills during quarantine!
In recent years, the sunny beach destination of Acapulco has gotten a bad rap. Google its name, and you’ll find news stories on gang wars and violence. That’s certainly the perception I had of Acapulco before living in Mexico.
Then I watched the Luis Miguel series on Netflix. (I’m only a little embarrassed to admit how much I enjoyed this entertaining, well-acted, and yes a bit soapy show on the life of Mexican pop star Luis Miguel.) The show takes place during the singer’s rise in the 1980s and ’90s, when he lived between Mexico City and Acapulco. But the city that Luis Miguel evokes wasn’t the one I’d encountered in those alarming headlines. This was Acapulco at its peak. Glittering lights curving along a spectacular bay, dramatic cliffs abutting verdant green mountains, and glamorous nightclubs overlooking gorgeous beaches.
The Two Narratives of Acapulco
So how to reconcile these two Acapulcos: the city of gleaming Pacific ocean views, and the one known for its crime and violence? After all, the resort town remains the number one destination for domestic tourism. Each year, hotel occupancy is near 100%, and dozens of major conferences, photoshoots, and festivals take place there. I spoke to many Mexican friends who visit frequently, staying at family condos every year. They assured me things were looking up in Acapulco — that tourism was far separated from the city’s criminal underbelly — and so, in fall 2019, I headed there for a long weekend with a friend. I had to see for myself.
What I found was a fascinating, utterly unexpected blend of past and present, wealth and shabbiness, natural beauty and urban development. The Acapulco of today still oozes charm, with layers of forgotten history existing alongside one another. The ghosts of Filipino and Chinese traders who brought spices and porcelain into port on hulking schooners, ’50s Hollywood stars who once tanned on its beaches, ’80s discotheques pulsating with jet-set nightlife, and the smugglers, from colonial pirates to modern capos, who’ve left their own troubled legacy. They all, somehow, coexist.
Despite this complicated history, I fell in love with Acapulco’s beauty, personality, and rich culture. Here, I’ll share some of my favorite experiences in the Pearl of the Pacific. I’ll also complement these with recommendations on how to have the safest, most enjoyable stay you can.
Watch the Acapulco Sunset over the Pacific
Since Acapulco is known as a highly developed, built-up resort town, nothing really prepares you for its rugged, dramatic coastline. There’s no doubt the city is overdeveloped, its rocky cliffs studded with hundreds of high rise hotels and condos. But in those areas that have been left mostly alone (mainly on the western side of the city, just uphill from Playa Langosta), you can drink in one of Mexico’s most utterly spectacular sunset views.
The walk along the sea from Playa Langosta up to La Quebrada is truly stunning.
Sinfonía del Mar
Take one of Acapulco’s famous VW Bug taxis to Sinfonía del Mar or Playa Langosta to begin your sunset walk. I preferred the slightly longer walk from Playa Langosta, because I got to enjoy the beginning of the sunset from more vantage points, and by the time the most dramatic view was revealed, it felt supremely satisfying. Sinfonía del Mar (Symphony of the Sea) is a lovely, open-air theater, its curved seats leading to a sun mosaic stage perched directly above the churning Pacific. When you’ve had your fill of views and snapshots there, continue walking up the sea-walk to La Quebrada (The Ravine).
You can get fantastic views of the sunset from both Sinfonía del Mar and La Quebrada.
La Quebrada
This remarkable spot is home Acapulco’s most beloved sunset view, a place where locals and visitors gather nightly. It’s essentially a craggy cliff that drops dramatically down to the sea, with steps and a winding path heading down towards the final lookout. At the top, pay a small fee (no more than 45 pesos I believe) to enter, then slowly make your way down.
My favorite view was at the top of the swirling path, where you can drink in the cliffs (so eye-catching that they look carved, sculpted into the rock), the sea, the beauty of the path itself, and the full scope of the sky. I would go here every night if I could, every sunset a wholly new phenomenon waiting to be discovered. (Since you can’t be there right now, check out the fantastic local photographer Allan Bañuelos @acawanderer for many of these spectacular views.) Acapulco is just another example of Mexico’s seemingly endless natural riches.
Let Acapulco’s Legendary Cliff Divers Take Your Breath Away
Once you’re at La Quebrada, there’s more in store for you than an unforgettable sunset. After the sun sinks down below the sea, the sky darkens, and the coast lights up with lanterns. Then, some skinny local kids will climb up onto the cliff on the opposing side of the gorge. But these are no ordinary adolescents… they’re the famous quebradistas of Acapulco, the cliff divers!
Once the Acapulco sky darkens, the quebradistas (cliff divers) perform their death-defying feats. They leap off the cliff on the right in this image, into the tiny gully of water below.
One by one, they’ll leap from different points on the 45-meter high cliff face into the water, outlined by jagged rocks that line the dark ravine. The quebradistas start lower down, gradually jumping from higher and higher spots until the final daredevil, who leaps down from the very top of the cliff. It’s exciting, anxiety-inducing, and breathtaking in the most literal sense. Not to be missed.
If you have time before the sunset and cliff-divers, head up to the Casa de los Vientos, the famed home of socialite and art collector Dolores Olmedo. She was the long-time patron of Mexican artist Diego Rivera, who created a beautiful mosaic for the house’s entryway. Today, the house is a cultural center you can visit Monday through Friday.
Delve Into Acapulco History at the Fuerte de San Diego
Acapulco is famous for its 20th century heyday, but this city has a much longer, genuinely compelling history that many visitors know little about. By far the best place to play catch up is the Fuerte de San Diego (San Diego Fort), an 18th century citadel that overlooks Acapulco Bay and the inland mountains from a lush hilltop.
Not only is the five-pointed Fuerte de San Diego full of interesting history — it’s just plain gorgeous.
I hopped on one of Acapulco’s colorful, spray-painted pesero buses to climb the hill, getting off at the fort’s entrance. Today, the Fuerte de San Diego is the Acapulco History Museum. The fort is in a five-point star formation made from thick, cool stone, providing a welcome respite from the city’s legendary heat and humidity. Each point of the pentagram holds exhibits on the port’s history, from its beginnings as a holding of the Aztec Empire (Acapulco most likely means “The Place in which Reeds Abound” in the Aztec language Nahuatl) to colonial port and beyond. Especially interesting is the exhibit on the “Nau Chino,” the trade corridor between Asia and Mexico, and its effects on both Asian and Mexican culture, food, art, and more. The room showing Acapulco’s storied heyday as a destination for American and Mexican movie stars is fun as well!
Views behind the fort feature Guerrero state’s rolling green mountains. Directly in front, meanwhile, lies the vast curvature of Acapulco Bay.
Get a Taste of Old Hollywood at Hotel Los Flamingos
Speaking of classic movie stars jet-setting to Acapulco Bay, no discussion would be complete without mentioning Hotel Los Flamingos. I’m a big fan of everything Old Hollywood, and this was always one of Acapulco’s main attractions for me. Glamorous photographs of Marilyn on the beach, the Kennedy’s on honeymoon, Frank Sinatra in a nightclub crooning:
“Come fly with me, come fly, let’s fly away; Just say the word and we’ll beat the birds down to Acapulco Bay…”
Hotel Los Flamingos has one of the best sunsets in Acapulco, with a sprinkling of classic Hollywood flair.
There aren’t many places left where you can get a sense of Old Acapulco, the city that movie stars of the Golden Age once roamed. Most of that city is covered with modern condos and resorts, shiny new bars and nightclubs. But at Hotel Los Flamingos, time stands still.
History and Glamour at Los Flamingos
When the Hollywood star Johnny Weissmuller (best known for his role as Tarzan) first came to midcentury Acapulco, he fell in love. Soon after, he decided to build his own hotel in the coastal paradise. And so he did: Hotel Los Flamingos, a bright pink, modern joint perched precariously on splendid cliffs facing the ocean. In its heyday, the hotel was luxurious and swank: Cary Grant, Orson Welles, and John Wayne hanging out in the pool with their good friend Johnny. These days, Hotel Los Flamingos has been frozen in time.
For a more upscale take on Old Hollywood style in Acapulco, check out the famed Hotel Boca Chica. Photo courtesy of Design Hotels Group.
The era of glamour and Hollywood stars has come and gone for this slightly care-worn spot, but so have the sky-high prices. Now you can spend $60-$70 USD a night for a comfy bed, or $15 for a meal, and watch one of Acapulco’s most stunning sunsets while sipping one of the hotel’s famous Cocos Locos. It really is an Old Hollywood time warp, tucked away in a quiet corner of this lively city.
If you have time, check out Hotel Boca Chica for a more subdued, minimalist take on classic Acapulco style. Boca Chica is a fancier (and definitely pricier) Midcentury Modern hotel featured in many photo shoots, perfect if you’re looking for an upscale retro experience.
Indulge in Local Acapulqueño Cuisine
Seafood
Most people I asked about food in Acapulco told me, “Meh.” And it’s true, the food at fancy hotels and restaurants honestly didn’t impress me much. But there is good food in Acapulco, just not necessarily at these tourist traps! As you’re staring out into the Pacific Ocean, I’m sure seafood will be on your mind. My favorite spot was Buzo’s, a classic restaurant right in front of the beach on the main bay. The caldo de camarón (spicy shrimp stew) was the best I’ve ever had! The molcajete de mariscos was a steaming, flavorful array of seafood, from fresh octopus to fish. But really, almost anything here will be delicious.
At old school seafood joints like Buzo’s, enjoy molcajetes piled high with treasures from the sea.
Pozole Verde
Another local specialty might not sound as appetizing in such a hot, muggy climate: pozole verde, a thick stew made with pork and hominy. If you can find a good air-conditioned spot and cool down, it’s well worth it! Head to a local restaurant on a Thursday to enjoy a bowl.
Dance a Traditional Danzón with Acapulco Locals in the Zócalo
Walking along the costera — the sea drive that twists and turns along Acapulco’s bays — a typical bus passed by, spray painted with Snoopy or The Simpsons or who knows. (They’re all like this, and all unique!). “Hop on, güera! We’re headed to the Zócalo!”
From the costera seaside road, hop on a colorful bus to get to the zócalo, the Pacific-facing side, and beyond.
I didn’t take this cheery driver up on his offer. Later, though, I trekked through the humidity myself, huffing and puffing up the coast to the zócalo, Acapulco’s main plaza. In many Mexican towns and cities, this main square is the literal town center. Here, however, it’s just off the ocean. Other than that, it contains all the charms of every Mexican zócalo, with a particular Acapulqueño flair. Young couples flirt, families take a paseo (stroll) with ice cream, and music is always playing somewhere. On my Friday evening visit, I lucked out and wandered into the weekly Danzón party. A large group of locals was enjoying this traditional, waltz-like dance style. I suddenly understood why the older woman I’d seen on a bus earlier had been so beautiful dressed, in head-to-toe white with high heels. Here she was at the Zócalo, swirling away!
Tips to Maximize Your Time and Stay Safe While in Acapulco:
1. Be conscious of your belongings:
I never felt unsafe while in Acapulco. That said, take the normal precautions you would in any large city where theft occurs. Don’t bring valuables around with you. (I chose not to take my camera, and instead made do with phone photos for this visit.) Don’t leave your beach bag with phone, cash, cards, etc. unattended, instead bringing only the essentials if you’re going for a swim.
Acapulco is full of hidden corners and enchantment, yours to discover. That doesn’t mean, however, you should throw caution to the wind.
2. Think carefully before going out to nightclubs:
I’m not much of a partier or nightclub-goer. When I went to Acapulco, I was more interested in relaxation than going out. That said, the city is well known for its nightlife, and you may be tempted to go out while you’re here. There are many high-end clubs, and most likely you’ll have no problem — crime targeting tourists is very uncommon in Acapulco. However, when tourists have been caught in the crossfire of narcotrafficking-related conflict, it’s been at nightclubs. This is because wealthy traffickers can target each other at this type of establishment. So to be abundantly cautious, I don’t recommend going to clubs here. Pick up wine, beer, liquor, whatever you’d like at the many supermarkets on the costera. Then enjoy them by the ocean, pool, or hot tub!
3. Stay in Acapulco Dorado in AirBnB for a low-budget trip
If you don’t plan on renting a car, I highly recommend getting an AirBnb apartment along the costera road, officially called Miguel Alemán. This will ensure that you can walk to most major spots: the beach, the supermarket, secure taxi stops (paradas), and an assortment of restaurants.
4. Visit during the off-season
If you head to Acapulco during semana santa (Easter week), or Mexican summer and winter school vacations, the beaches will be packed. It’s really no fun to go during these times! But wait until fall, and you can spend a much quieter, more enjoyable vacation on empty beaches. From around September to November, you’ll have Acapulco largely to yourself.
5. Get a resort day pass for a taste of Acapulco luxury
For an especially relaxing day, enjoy the facilities at a luxury resort with an inexpensive day pass.
If you’re jonesing for a taste of the good life, there are plenty of fabulous resorts around Acapulco. Rather than paying through your teeth for a room, hop in a cab and enjoy a day there! We spent a very tranquil day in the Princess resort, taking full advantage of the buffet, quiet beach, and pool. For around $25 USD, we got a full day there, with a large credit to get food at the hotel. The taxi from downtown Acapulco to the resort area isn’t cheap (not by my peso-salaried standards, anyway). It cost around $300 pesos, or $15 USD at the time, in each direction. But if you need that luxurious experience, it will still be pennies compared to even a one night stay at the resort.
5. Bring cash for taxis and street vendors
Finally, don’t count on using your Uber or Didi app while in Acapulco. Ride-sharing is banned, and the seemingly endless number of taxistas in their blue and white VW vochos reign supreme. These taxis aren’t cheap, either. Plan on bringing several hundred pesos, depending on how far you plan on going. Be sure to haggle and establish a price before getting in. And if you find a great taxi driver, don’t be shy about asking for his card, especially if you want to go farther along the coast on future days.
Bring some extra cash in case a restaurant doesn’t accept card (always a good rule of thumb in Mexico), and to support local vendors. There are some really nice, non-pushy folks on the beach who sell everything from mango to coconuts to fresh oysters.
Final Reflection
Everywhere I went in Acapulco, I was the only foreigner. Even as Acapulco has remained a wildly popular domestic tourism destination, negative press and alarming headlines have scared away the spring breakers (hey, I’m not complaining). While I certainly felt very visible as the only gringa around, locals were consistently kind, warm, and welcoming. Frankly, many folks seemed happy, and maybe a little surprised, to see a foreign visitor — at least outside of the resorts. I came for Acapulco’s renowned coastline and storied sunsets. I stayed for the city’s lively personality, friendly spirit, and sense of fun.
Many visitors to Mexico City head straight to the Zócalo, in the historic center — the metropolis’s most famous plaza since Aztec times. While they may be impressed by its monumental scale and fascinating history, they probably also feel overwhelmed.
Without a doubt, the Zócalo is an amazing place. But both this huge main square and the historic center that surrounds it can be crowded and confusing, especially if you don’t know where to go. Without insider info, many leave feeling the area is chaotic and stressful. Yet I’ve guided many visitors through the historic center happily!
The Zócalo is undoubtedly a must-see in Mexico City’s historic center. Yet there’s so much more to experience!
I absolutely love the historic center of Mexico City. Pulsating with life, color, and history, it’s the true heart of the mega-city. The Aztecs once paddled canoes through canals here — now paved streets. Spanish conquistadors, kings, emperors, populists, and paupers roamed alongside Chinese immigrants, French invaders, and American imperialists of past centuries. Once you know where and when to go, I’m certain that you’ll fall in love with the area too. Without further ado, I’d like to share my guide to the historic center’s most magical spots, far beyond just the Zócalo. The neighborhood is full of incredible spots few tourists ever get to see!
Have an Old-School Breakfast at El Cardenal
The historic center of Mexico City isn’t just an area for tourists. The neighborhood is still home to long-time residents, offices, and lots and lots of government buildings, from federal departments to the capital’s congress. This means lots and lots of politicians and officials! And where do they all do business in the morning? El Cardenal, a fantastic, old school downtown restaurant.
El Cardenal is one of the historic center’s most iconic restaurants, and for good reason. Photo courtesy of Restaurante El Cardenal.
Regular folks come here too, of course. But El Cardenal has a special vibe, with its classic interior always filled with politicians having hours-long breakfast meetings, “ladies who lunch” gossiping as they feast on Mexican sweet breads, and businesspeople engaged in intense discussion over a café de olla. On top of all that, El Cardenal has one of the best breakfasts in Mexico City. Treat yourself to fabulous eggs and one of their famous conchas (a sweet breakfast roll), or come a little later to lunch on mole with chicken.
Travel Back in Time at the Plaza de Santo Domingo
Just a few blocks away lies the Plaza de Santo Domingo, one of Mexico’s oldest and most atmospheric public squares. Few tourists spend much time here, if at all. But it’s well worth dedicating an hour or two to explore the plaza’s cultural treasures! For me, Santo Domingo represents the heart of the historic center of Mexico City.
The Plaza de Santo Domingo has retained its traditional air since colonial times. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
Here, time seems to stand still. Centuries-old church and monastery buildings line the square, while tamale and elote vendors hawk their wares. Before these Spanish edifices were built, this very square was home to the Aztec emperor Cuauhtémoc. Under the portales, the covered stone arches that line one side of the plaza, sits a row of lovely wooden booths, each adorned with its own hand-painted sign. These are little open-air stationary shops, selling cards and decorative papers.
But hints remain of their original purpose; many of the stands have a little desk with an old typewriter perched on it. Since colonial times, the Plaza de Santo Domingo was home to scribes who would write letters and contracts for the population, mostly illiterate then. This practice slowly evolved into these charming stands, where you can still get a document drawn up if need be. It’s truly a slice of Mexico City’s past that remains relevant today.
Admire Stunning Murals by Some of Mexico’s Greatest 20th Century Artists
Palacio Nacional
The Palacio Nacional murals explore Mexican history. I highly recommend going with a guide who can explain them to you!
Many visitors to the historic center head straight to the Palacio Nacional (National Palace), right by the Zócalo. There, you can admire a gorgeous mural by Diego Rivera, spread across an entire staircase and depicting Mexican history from the Conquest to the Revolution. And it’s free! That said, however, the staircase seems to be closed off at the moment, making it hard to see the mural’s details.
Fortunately, the Palacio Nacional is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the historic center’s murals. After the Mexican Revolution, the newly progressive government invited many artists to cover public buildings in their art. The results are spectacular: one of my favorite things about Mexico City! All this gorgeous art, free and open to the public.
Secretary of Public Education
The Secretary of Public Education features three floors of stunning murals.
The best of these projects is in the Secretary of Public Education, right on the Plaza de Santo Domingo. Once a colonial monastery, this became HQ for Mexican education policy in the 1920s — and officials asked Diego Rivera to adorn the building with his murals. The effect is breathtaking. The elegant archways and stone walls of this ancient building are covered in murals, rising up three floors and stretching around a garden courtyard. Rivera’s murals cover Mexican traditions and artisanry on the lower level, while the third floor shows the country’s revolution. Look for “The Orgy”, a very entertaining mural depicting the lifestyle of the wealthy in Mexico City’s Roaring Twenties, and the final mural near the staircase, which depicts revolutionary communist workers and sneaks in Frida Kahlo!
Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso
The Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso makes for a memorable visit. Photo courtesy of Flickr.
Another lovely example of these public murals is the Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso, a historic center museum. The Colegio is another beautiful colonial building, which was once a school (consequently, its name, “The Old Academy of Saint Idelfonso”). Today, it features rotating exhibitions, but the star of the show is the architecture itself, bedecked with wonderful murals by the “Three Greats” of the 20th Century: Diego Rivera, David Alfonso Siquieros, and José Clemente Orozco. It’s open until 7 p.m., so it’s a great last stop of the day. They light the murals up once it starts getting dark, making the Colegio even more atmospheric!
In short, the Antiguo Colegio is a great place to familiarize yourself with the work of all three famed artists, the Secretary of Public Education is perfect for a deep dive into history amongst exquisite surroundings, and the Palacio Nacional for a quicker peek into both art and history. Make sure to bring an ID for officials at these buildings’ entrances.
Get a Taste for the Gourmet and the Strange at the Mercado de San Juan
There are many markets in the historic center, and it can be overwhelming to choose between them, or even know where to go. Since Aztec times, people from throughout Mesoamerica flocked here to sell their wares, trading valuable cacao and shells for obsidian, quetzal feathers, and precious metals. In the 2020s, this practice continues with tianguis (temporary markets) that pop up around the city, and lively neighborhood markets.
Of the many historic center markets, the Mercado de San Juan is perhaps the most unique. That is to say: you’ll probably never go to another market quite like this one. Mercado de San Juan is Mexico City’s go-to spot for exotic ingredients, frequented by top chefs and adventurous home cooks alike. Here, you’ll find fruits from Asia and South America alongside delectable insects, strange meats, and friendly, knowledgable vendors. Likewise, some vendors will cook you dishes that are just as unique. It’s a literal taste of Mexico City’s diverse heritage and modern cosmopolitanism.
Enjoy a Romantic Dinner By Candlelight at Azúl
Azul is undoubtedly one of the city’s most atmospheric, romantic restaurants.
As you’re winding down your day in the historic center, it can be tough to decide where to eat. This area has everything, from hole-in-the-wall taquerías (here’s a list) to contemporary fine dining (Limosneros). For me, however, nowhere compares to the ambience and sheer mexicanidad of Azul Histórico. Set within the courtyard of yet another colonial building, this restaurant is unbelievably beautiful.
Trees grow through the floor and rise up several stories, bedecked with glowing candles that create a magical atmosphere. The menu is a veritable tour of regional Mexican cuisine, with excellent seasonal specialties, domestic wines, and desserts. During your meal, I urge you to order the Tortilla Soup. Don’t ask why…you won’t regret it. (One final note: I do recommend calling and making a reservation. If you don’t, they’ll probably tell you the wait is an hour. I’ve never waited that long though! Sit it out, and within 30 minutes I bet you’ll have a table.)
Tips for Visiting the Historic Center of Mexico City:
Go During the Work Week: If at all possible, visit the historic center from Tuesday through Friday. During the weekends, it gets packed with locals shopping and enjoying the area — I mean really packed. I never take people here on the weekend, especially Sunday! And on Mondays, it’s tranquil, but all the museums are closed, including the Templo Mayor in the Zócalo. It’s nice during the rest of the week — I recommend going around 10-11 a.m., so you avoid the city’s morning rush hour.
Go to the historic center on a weekday, and find (relative) peace and tranquility.
Be a Bit Careful With Your Belongings: The center isn’t a “dangerous” area of Mexico City, but due to its high numbers of tourists and bustling feel, it has the highest rates of pickpocketing in the city. I’ve never had any issue, but I watch my things carefully. Keep them in a zipped bag in front of you, and just watch out if you’re taking snapshots.
Appreciate the Layers of History: Alas, our time in the historic center has come to a close. There are so many more places I’d like to share with you…sigh, I’ll save them for future posts. Mexico City’s historic center is, above all, a place of contrasts: modern big box stores inside colonial edifices, the hustle and bustle of a 21st century megacity amidst the ruins and palaces of past empires. The Pino Suárez metro station, for instance, reflects contemporary chaos, yet holds an Aztec pyramid within its depths. Layers upon layers of history collide here, and the more time you spend in this captivating neighborhood, the more you’ll discover.
Few cities capture your imagination as quickly as San Cristóbal de las Casas. This mountain hamlet has remained in the world’s eye since Zapatista revolutionaries briefly seized it in 1994. But these days, far from a revolutionary hotbed, San Cristóbal is a bohemian oasis where quirky expats live alongside locals, many of Mayan ancestry.
The magic of the town’s setting is undeniable — and you probably already know how much I love Mexican mountain towns by now. Cobblestone colonial streets slope up and down the hills, while green mountains stretch out in every direction. Likewise, San Cristóbal’s rich indigenous cultural blend is just as responsible for its enduring charm. Here, I’ve collected my favorite experiences in and around town. From food to textiles, nature to religious practices, these encapsulate what I love about San Cristóbal.
San Cristóbal de las Casas is teeming with lovely colonial churches.
1. Overwhelm Your Senses at the San Cristóbal Municipal Market
Firstly, there’s no better way to start out your day than San Cristóbal’s sprawling municipal market. All around the market’s edges are tamale vendors, their tall metal canisters steaming. Try a classic Chiapas breakfast: a tamal de chipilín, corn mixed with fragrant wild herbs and chicken, steamed in banana leaves. It’s one of the most delicious tamales I’ve tried anywhere in the country!
But there’s much more to the market than tamales. San Cristóbal is a meeting point for the dozens of Mayan villages that dot the countryside around town. Many days, villagers come down the mountain to buy and sell their wares. As a result, the market is incredibly vibrant. Wild turkeys are sold alongside regional herbs and chiles, while villagers wearing their town’s distinct clothing style (black sheeps’ wool skirts and ponchos for Chamulans, brightly embroidered flowers for Zinacantans) and haggle for goods. It’s an unforgettable, immersive slice of highland Mayan culture.
At the bustling San Cristóbal market, you’ll meet many shoppers and vendors from nearby Mayan villagers — including Chamulans, like this gentleman.
2. Sip on a Chiapanecan Coffee at Carajillo
After that, your energy may have started to flag. Luckily, there’s a simple solution: some of Mexico’s best coffee! The mountains of Chiapas are home to hundreds of small family farms producing rich, earthy café. While there are many places to taste and try coffee in San Cristóbal, Carajillo Café is singularly beloved by visitors — for good reason.
This lovely café sources their organic coffee straight from small farmers in the surrounding hills, roasting it in-house. I loved the balanced medium blend, but Carajillo’s knowledgable staff will help find something perfect for your taste. It’s especially fun to order coffee served in their Japanese siphon coffee-maker! They’ll prepare it in front of you in this funky contraption, which looks straight out of a laboratory, explaining the unique process! While I can’t deny Carajillo’s hipster-ness, it was all worth it for the best cup of coffee I’ve had in Mexico. Fruity, strong, and even chocolatey… I guarantee you’ll want to buy beans to bring home.
Carajillo Café is legendary for a reason. Its coffee, breakfasts, and ambience will have you coming back again and again.
3. Delve into the World of Mayan Textiles
The cobblestone streets of San Cristóbal are filled with color, thanks to the region’s vibrant, diverse textile traditions. The common thread (pun intended, sorry) behind this explosion of pattern and texture is Mayan culture. This indigenous heritage reaches from the tropical Yucatan Peninsula all the way to these cool, cloudy mountains.
The textiles’ best introduction is found in the colonial Santo Domingo Church, home to the Mayan Textile Center. This stunning museum is small enough to visit in an hour or two, but jam-packed with clothing and textiles from all over the Mayan world — from Chiapas to Guatemala.
Mayan textiles, however, aren’t confined to museums. In fact, they’re a vital part of everyday life for many in and around San Cristóbal. Zinacantán, a popular textile-producing village nearby, is home to detailed flower embroidery and the woven chal, a poncho-like garment work over the arms and shoulders. Take a taxi or combi there from San Cristóbal to visit artisans in their homes. In Zinacantán, you can learn about their complex work, supporting it with a worthwhile purchase.
In the mountain village of Zinacantán, you’ll have the opportunity to observe skilled lifelong weavers at work. It’s truly a privilege to watch them creating their art.
4. Hike Amongst Wild Orchids and Mountain Songbirds
Just outside San Cristóbal (up a big hill, FYI), the Orquideas Moxviquil is an oasis of natural beauty and calm. This remarkable orchid reserve was founded to save many of the endangered species in Chiapas’s forests and jungles. You can hike through the hilly woods with a guide, spotting wild orchids and many endemic bird species. The main attraction is the garden, with both outdoor grounds and two fantastical greenhouses that look like hobbit houses. They hold hundreds of species of orchids — the sheer diversity of shapes, colors, and sizes is mind-boggling. It’s both a worthwhile cause to support and a stunning place to spend an afternoon!
At the Moxviquil Orquid Reserve, hummingbirds flit through an enchanted garden with hundreds of flower species. It must be like a candy shop for them!
5. Discover Highland Mysticism in San Juan Chamula
San Cristóbal and the villages that surround it are places of syncretism, blending indigenous Mayan culture with outside influences. In the town of San Juan Chamula, for instance, this fascinating cultural mixing is made manifest at the parish church.
The Chamula church outside of San Cristóbal is home to a potent blend of Mayan and Catholic spirituality.
Take a quick combi or taxi from near the municipal market to Chamula, as locals call it. You can’t miss the small, lovely church in the main square, gleaming with bright turquoise detailing. Once you’re inside, you’ll enter a wholly unique world of religious practice. Pine needles carpet the floor, where Chamulan families drink carbonated beverages, pray, and sometimes sacrifice animals such as chickens as a part of their religious practice. It’s a beautiful, spiritual experience, and I feel incredibly lucky to have been able to visit. In order to respect the community’s wishes, make sure not to take any pictures or video inside the church.
You can’t take pictures inside the church — but feel free to do so while admiring its spectacular facade.
7. Explore Mexico’s Grand Canyon: Sumidero
Chiapas is a land of contrasts. San Cristóbal is perched high in the mountains, with a crisp and even chilly climate. Here, spring rains can fill the cobblestone streets with water in the afternoons. But start down towards the Sumidero Canyon, and things change drastically within a dozen miles. About an hour from San Cristóbal, the Sumidero Canyon is an iconic symbol of Mexico’s dramatic natural beauty.
Less than an hour from San Cristóbal, the Sumidero Canyon is a national symbol of natural beauty.
Sumidero couldn’t be more different from San Cristóbal: here, you’ll descend into the tropics. Temperatures and humidity can be very high (bring lots of water, sunscreen, and a hat) in this monumental ravine, which formed around the same time as the Grand Canyon. Take a boat tour into its depths to see the canyon’s majestic walls, river, and even spider monkeys! You can take a tour from one of the many providers in San Cristóbal.
In the canyon, you’ll see spider monkeys swinging in the trees at the edges!
8. Learn About Ancient Archaeology at Casa Na Bolom
Before you leave San Cristóbal, head up one of its many cobblestone hills to visit Casa Na Bolom, the House of the Jaguar. This charming colonial house was the longtime home of Frans and Gertrude Blom, a Danish and Swiss-German couple who dedicated their life to unearthing the rich Mayan archaeological sites of Chiapas. The house is like a mysterious, Indiana Jones-esque treasure trove. It’s teeming with artifacts, dusty books, and exploring equipment that will transport you to a fascinating time in Chiapas history.
Casa Na Bolom is a lovely colonial house, transformed into a museum about to Mayan archaeology and the adventurous couple who dedicated their lives to it.
Trip Tips for San Cristóbal de las Casas:
Be prepared for all weather conditions:
Between my arrival at the nearest airport in Tuxtla (lowlands) and my climb up to San Cristóbal in a combi, I went from about 100 degrees Fahrenheit to 60! The highland climate can be rainy at times, and quite chilly at night, so come prepared for these contrasts. Definitely bring an umbrella and supportive walking shoes — hiking boots would be even better.
In the mountains surrounding town, weather can be variable. This makes for some strong rains, but also shining wet cobblestones and stunning afternoon skies.
Stick to bottled water:
I usually brush my teeth with local tap water in Mexico, but for some reason, I decided to use bottled water while in San Cristóbal. Later, many friends and acquaintances told me they’d gotten stomach sicknesses while in town, most likely from tap water. My instincts served me well in this case! On the other hand, I ate quite a bit of street food without any issue.
Finally, whether you love culture, nature, or food, San Cristóbal is sure to fascinate and delight.
Book Your Tours in Town:
For excursions like Chamula, Zinacantán, and the Sumidero Canyon, don’t worry about booking beforehand. San Cristóbal is teeming with pretty inexpensive tour providers. Just look for the little storefronts advertising tours a day or two before you want to go, and shop around for the best price.
To sum up, San Cristóbal has become a haven for people from around the world, drawn to its natural and arquitectural beauty, artsy feel, and singular culture. This was just a small taste of what you could do in a long weekend in the city — Chiapas has so much to offer!
When you think of Mexico City — even if you’ve never been here — one thing probably comes to mind: traffic. I can’t argue with the assessment that the city’s traffic is crazy; I’ve been stuck in it for frustrating hours. But what many people don’t tell you? You don’t have to drive everywhere! This isn’t a sprawling, suburban American city, where nearly everyone is expected to own a car. While cars are certainly status symbols in Mexico (just like in the U.S.), many people don’t have them, meaning diverse transport options have sprung up in this void.
While Mexico City public transportation is far from perfect, I use it pretty happily every single day. It’s fantastic value, and many Chilangos take public transportation to get where they’re going faster and avoid the city’s infamous traffic jams. That said, the system is complex, making transport intimidating to city newcomers. In this guide, I’ll take you through public transportation options in Mexico City, sharing my tips on navigation and safety as well.
Photo courtesy of Pixabay.
General Tips and Advice
Navigating:
Visiting a friend in London this summer, I was introduced to Citymapper, an incredibly detailed and comprehensive app to get around the city’s transportation network. When I returned home to Mexico City, I opened the app and discovered that it worked here — and in many other global cities!
Citymapper really is a game changer. Use it like Google Maps or Waze, inputting where you want to go. But instead of giving you a few limited options or encouraging you to drive, the app will show you… Every. Possible. Route. Wanna take only peseros, the mini-buses that wildly zip around the city, for some reason? You can. Want to take the metro, even if it means walking longer? Do it. The app uncannily knows everything about this crazy city’s transport, even the approximate times and stops for informal transit choices. After you choose your route, Citymapper will walk you through the entire process. It tells you the best part of the train to board, which exit to take at the stations, and exactly what everything costs. They’re not paying me — I just really love Citymapper.
A final note on navigation: no app is perfect, nor is cell reception and data endless. When in doubt, ask a mom or a student nearby for help on navigation. People are generally very nice, and it’s better to swallow your pride than to get lost in the mega-city!
Photo courtesy of Ricardo Esquivel from Pexels.
Safety:
I feel generally quite safe on the Metro and Metrobus, but everything is a question of location. The Mexico City subway has 195 stations spread out all over, from very posh, well-heeled neighborhoods to quite dangerous areas. Ask a local friend or colleague before heading to a new part of the city, whatever type of transportation you’re using.
Even in safer areas, the subway and Metrobus aren’t without their safety problems. Mostly, this means pickpocketing and petty theft. Busy commuter stations like Tacubaya, Pino Suarez, and Balderas are targets for pickpockets during the busy work week. Meanwhile, the start and endpoints of several subway lines, including the Pantitlan and Indios Verdes stations, can be crazy during rush hour, an many people who live in Mexico State/the suburbs pass through these stations to get to work.
None of this is intended to scare you! I have had no safety issue or robbery on public transit. Instead, I just want you to be cautious. Avoid these stations at rush hour (7:30-9 AM, 5-7:30 PM on weekdays) if possible. Always keep your belongings in a closed bag or backpack, held in front of you — not in your pockets. Just stay aware, not completely zoned out, speaking loudly in English, or on the phone, and it’s unlikely you’ll encounter an issue.
Being a Woman on Public Transport
Several forms of Mexico City public transportation have women’s sections. This image and cover photo courtesy of Wikimedia.
Sexual harassment is an issue on Mexico City public transportation, like in most of the world. Nearly all of this harassment is focused on women. The Metro has a pink section designated only for women, children, older people, and people with disabilities. While I wish it wasn’t necessary, I love this section and think other cities/countries should copy the idea. I use this section, which is also on the Metrobus, exclusively, and highly recommend it if you identify as a woman.
On other forms of Mexico City public transportation, frankly I don’t feel as comfortable. Men sometimes cede their seats to women — take it, if it’s offered to you. Otherwise, standing on buses can be uncomfortable, as you’re very close to others and at times, there are creepy men. Particularly as a foreign woman, sometimes I feel very conspicuous. My method is to avoid taking crowded buses whenever possible: I walk, bike, Metro, and Metrobus instead.
After 9 PM, I usually don’t take any form of public transport, except the Metro/Metrobus in areas I know and trust. Sometimes it’s worth it to just take an Uber — once again, perhaps especially if you’re a woman. In general, many locals feel that the Metro and Metrobus are safer than buses or peseros. Still, as in any big city, you’ll probably feel safer in public transit in areas like Polanco and San Angel, than in Iztapalapa or Ciudad Neza, reflecting the vast security differences and inequities of Mexico City.
The Metro
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia.
Now, I’ll give you brief overviews and tips for different forms of transportation in Mexico City. I ordered these transport options basically from what I take and like the most (Metro) to the least (small, crowded buses).
This year marks the 50th Anniversary of the Mexico City Metro, and honestly, I love it. I argue with people all the time, because I think it’s better than the subways of New York and London. It’s generally quite fast, and while it does get crowded at rush hour, most people are respectful. I don’t have to board at a super busy, end-of-line station, where it’s so packed all this flies out the window, so I’m sure that would affect my feelings.
The system is fairly extensive and well-designed. Different colors signal different lines, and cool icons symbolize each station, which are named after everything from revolutionary heroes to Prehispanic markets. I often find that when there’s traffic, it’s faster than any other form of transportation I might take.
You need a plastic card to ride, which you can buy at many Metro stations and all Metrobus stations for five pesos, and recharge up to 99 pesos at a time. At five pesos per ride (around one quarter), the system is amazing value.
Metrobus
Photo courtesy of Flickr.
The newer Metrobus system runs along a few long routes that aren’t covered by the Metro, going up to the border with Mexico State and, most usefully in my opinion, all the way down Insurgentes Avenue. These shiny red buses run up and down major avenues in their own lane, meaning you can avoid the traffic. However, the buses are still, well, buses. They’re not high speed underground trains. They drive at a moderate pace, and have to wait at every stoplight — rather than putting the buses on freeways, they placed them on avenues with plenty of stops.
To access the Metrobus, you use the same card as the Metro (sold at machines at many Metrobus stations). The stops are raised, glass door thingies perched in the middle of major streets. Wait for the light, and carefully cross to enter the station and swipe your card. The Metrobus is considered quite safe, and has a women’s section just like the Metro. The buses have their destination on the front: make sure it’s the same destination listed in Citymapper or Google Maps, or the bus could stop short of your final station.
For fun, take the double decker Metrobus on Reforma Avenue, and enjoy fabulous views of many iconic Mexico City sights. You’ll pass Chapultepec Forest, the Angel of Independence, and many skyscrapers, all for six pesos. I don’t love the Metrobus, as it can be a little slow, but it works in a pinch! the bus costs six pesos per ride.
Bike Rentals
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
Like New York, LA, and probably every major world city at this point, Mexico City has exploded with bike rentals. The most popular service is called Ecobici, run by the city itself to promote health and green forms of transit. The bikes are sturdy, and you’ll find them at stations all over the city. You can register for the excellent, cheap service online here or at Oaxaca #7 in the Colonia Roma.
Plenty of other international start-ups have gotten in the game, with free-standing bikes you can leave wherever. Mobikes are orange, while Jumps are red (and run by Uber). You’ll find them scattered around hipster neighborhoods mostly, and they have their respective apps. I like Mobike and sometimes use it, but their range is smaller than Ecobici, and none of these start-ups can beat the great value of Ecobici either! You can get an annual pass for just over $20 USD.
You’ll notice I’m not including scooters in this section, or anywhere in this article. Several friends have had accidents on them in Mexico City. Biking can already be risky — please wear a helmet, and watch out for cars that don’t always respect the bike lanes. Always bike on the correct side of the street, and be aware that bicyclists going the wrong way, pedestrians, and even cars will most likely obstruct your path at some point. Electric scooters are even riskier here, because they’re faster and harder to operate, making quick maneuvers or stops difficult in the case of crazy drivers in cars. A final note on bikes: try not to leave bikes in the middle of the sidewalk. Mexico City neighbors don’t like it, and I get it — it’s annoying to walk around them, and just imagine pushing a stroller or wheelchair!
Buses
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia.
Mexico City has an incredibly extensive system of buses, mostly purple and green. I once drove three hours — there was some traffic, but still — to the far reaches of the “city,” through countryside and tiny villages. When I got there, I found the same green buses I see in my own central neighborhood. Along with this diversity comes a wide range of quality.
Technically, the Metro card should eventually work for many buses — don’t count on this. The main bus system is called RTP. To take the bus, you should have exact change; the driver won’t make change with you. Most buses cost four to seven pesos, with the cheap “locals” costing only two, but making a ton of stops. I used to take a purple bus every day when I worked in Lomas de Chapultepec, a wealthy area with no Metro stop, Metrobus, or bike rentals. It was a fine experience: just line up, and during peak hours, plenty of buses will pass by.
All buses list their final destinations, along with major landmarks/spots along their route, on the front window. When in doubt, ask the driver if he goes as far as your final destination, as some stop short.
Finally, you’ll see quite a few electric buses attached to lines above them, which are a wonderful addition in a smoggy city with too many old, exhaust-spewing vehicles. These are part of the Trolebús system. Some, like the blue ones on Felix Cuevas Avenue, are brand-new and really nice, running frequently so they’re not too crowded. Others, like the M1 near downtown and Tlatelolco, are green, snail-slow, and very crowded. As with other options of Mexico City public transportation, buses vary greatly, and it’ll be a process of deciding which you like and which you don’t.
Peseros and Combis
A classic Mexico City pesero. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
Peseros, rickety-looking green buses around 15 feet long, and combis, privately-driven vans, are the most informal transportation options in Mexico City. Despite this, they do run along set routes, and peseros even show up in Citymapper. I don’t love peseros: they are very inexpensive, but that also means they’re an easy target for robbery.
A combi in Taxco, Guerrero, a town famous for its VW Bug taxis as well. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia.
I actually like combis occasionally: they’re often faster than buses, more nimble in traffic, and while they can get very crowded, if you see a fairly empty one, nab a seat much comfier than that of a bus. On the other hand, due to the informal nature of these options, they aren’t considered especially safe or secure. The driving can also be a little nuts — thrilling or anxiety-inducing, depending on your personality. In a pinch, combis aren’t a bad option to get around in areas with few transport choices. They usually cost around five to ten pesos.
Localized Options: The Train Ligero, Tren Suburbano, and Teleférico
To wrap up, there are several forms of Mexico City public transportation that only exist in certain areas. Regardless, you never know when you’ll find yourself in Xochimilco or needing to go to Mexico State, for example, and you’ll need this information!
Tren Ligero
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
The tren ligero (light rail) is essentially an extension of the Metro system, helping make the connection to the south of the city. From the Tasqueña blue line Metro station, this diminutive light rail reaches down to Xochimilco, the canals and islands that form one of Mexico’s UNESCO sites and a popular tourist destination. These aboveground trains are small and slower than the Metro, taking around 30-40 minutes to reach the last stop. Currently, the first half of the system is closed under renovation — so don’t trust your Google Maps or Citymapper, which seem to ignore this. Overall, it’s a tranquil, safe little train, and at only three pesos per ride, it’s quite inexpensive.
Tren Suburbano
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia.
The tren suburbano (suburban train) connects Mexico City to its northern ‘burbs in a similar fashion. It begins at Buenavista station (get out of the metro station and hop right across to the suburban train), a teeming center just north of downtown that includes shopping, restaurants, and an ice rink beyond the train platforms. (While you’re there, pop in to the famous Vasconcelos Library, right around the corner.) Buenavista is the only place in Mexico City that reminds me of a “real” train station, like those found in Europe and Asia. You need a different plastic card for this train, which you can buy at ticket counters. Each ride costs up to 19 pesos, quite steep for Mexican transit, but good value at about $1 USD for the distance.
One of the suburban train’s current taglines is “It changed my life,” and truly, this isn’t far off. If you live in Mexico State and work in the city, as tens of thousands do, this was a game-changer. The train can fill up, but it’s fast and clean — before this, imagine taking several buses or combis into the city, trapped in terrible traffic. What was once a multi-hour journey, many of my friends now undertake in 30-60 minutes. You can take the train all the way up to Cuatitlán in Mexico State.
Teleférico
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia.
After that comes the final form of public transportation: the teleférico (cable car). If you head out to Teotihuacan, the famous pyramids north of Mexico City, you’ll briefly pass under the swinging cable cars, which cross above the highway in Mexico State. There’s only one route, called “Mexicable.” To be honest, it’s not likely that you’ll use the Mexicable. It’s located in Ecatepec, quite a dangerous municipality outside of Mexico City. The cable cars themselves are a nice, safe, modern system, and provide an important service for many locals. When you pass the teleférico, look at the small houses rising up into the hills, and imagine getting between them without a car, or stuck in traffic in a crowded bus. Taking a creative approach, the developers helped paint murals on many buildings along the route, making for a more scenic ride — not a bad deal for six pesos.
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia.
While you probably won’t use this cable car, Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum has proposed plans to build four more teleféricos in the city itself! If she follows through on the promise, we could be gliding in cable cars above boroughs like Álvaro Obregón, Gustavo A. Madero, Tlalpan, and Iztapalapa. I’m especially excited about a proposal that would potentially connect the first two sections of Chapultepec Park, which are a headache to get between now.
From the Metro to the Metrobus, cable cars to combis, Mexico City public transportation is slowly moving forward. It still has a long way to go, but in my opinion, it already surpasses most American cities in affordable transport options for the carless (such as myself). With lots of variation within the systems, it takes time to get confident with all of them and explore the city!
For a Minnesotan living in Mexico City, Christmas feels a little different these days. The snowstorms and cold of my childhood holiday seasons just don’t happen here! (No complaints: I love the chilly nights and crisp, sunny days of December in Mexico City.)
Nonetheless, there are subtle signs Christmas is coming to the metropolis. You’ll spot little old cars topped with giant, brightly colored piñatas — their seven shiny points reflecting the Seven Deadly Sins. On the weekends, families head south to Amecameca, chopping down their Christmas trees at farms in the shadow of two volcanoes. Bright lights and decorations grace businesses and homes around the city. Every office and friend group celebrates with a posada, a lively Mexican Christmas party.
Here, I’ll be sharing a guide to the best places and events to experience the holiday season in and around the city!
Reforma Avenue
Reforma, the elegant main avenue of Mexico City, is a beautiful place to walk and explore any time of the year. But December brings an especially festive air to the grand boulevard: poinsettias! City workers seasonally change the plants on Reforma from spring flowers to marigolds for Day of the Dead.
Just a tiny fragment of the grand avenue, lined with thousands of poinsettias.
This time of year, that means the stunning red poinsettia. These flowers are native to Mexico, going by the name nochebuenas (midnight flowers). Today, poinsettias are a popular Christmas decoration in the U.S. and elsewhere. Long ago, however, they were used for medicine and ritual purposes by the Aztecs (Mexica). Centuries ago, the flower was called cuetlaxochitl and symbolized purity. When the Spanish arrived to Mexico, they co-opted the poinsettia in the 17th Century as part of their Catholic Christmas celebrations.
Poinsettias don’t just grow in cultivated gardens. Native to Mexico, the nochebuenas spring up all over and grow to be several meters high, as in this Mixcoac courtyard.
While not everyone is aware of all this backstory, the end result of the nochebuena’s history is striking: thousands of blooms lining Reforma Avenue for miles! Take a morning stroll along the avenue from Chapultepec Park and ending at the Angel of Independence for the most iconic view of the poinsettias. There, you’ll find a sea of red flowers with the famed golden angel statue glinting in the background.
Mercado Jamaica
Piñatas and poinsettias are two hallmarks of the Mexican Christmas season. Many shops like this one get their wares from the cavernous Mercado Jamaica.
As Mexico City families gear up for the holidays, there’s a one-stop shop for all their Christmas decorations. In the U.S., this would be a superstore, like Target or Michael’s. But in Mexico City, there’s somewhere much better: the Mercado Jamaica! This legendary downtown market stretches on and on. Year-round, it forms the heart of the city’s flower trade, supplying thousands of blooms to both vendors and direct customers.
The holiday season brings a special feel to the market, as it fills up with poinsettias and other Christmas-y flowers, the walls and ceilings of many stands lined with festive piñatas. It really gets you in the spirit of the Mexican Christmas season!
Last year, Chapultepec Park even exhibited colorful piñatas made of plants and flowers!
Atlixco
A few hours outside Mexico City, Atlixco is one of the region’s loveliest pueblos mágicos (magic towns). Perched in the mountains of Puebla and overlooking the region’s two volcanoes, the colonial village has a wondrous setting year-round. Christmastime means one thing in Atlixco: the annual lights festival, called “La Villa Iluminada” (The Illuminated Village).
Atlixco’s light festival is legendary, drawing visitors from around the country.
From late November through January 6, the town comes alive with elaborate lights displays lining every plaza and historic street. I recommend staying in lovely Puebla City for a night, then heading out to Atlixco (a half hour away) for a day of exploring, culminating in the incredible lights displays. Check out my full guide to the “magic town” here, and be sure to visit the gorgeous fields of poinsettias nearby!
Visitors stroll and ice skate under the lights.
Pastorela
Mexico has many unique Christmas traditions, but one of the most iconic is the pastorela. This is basically a play depicting the nativity, but it might not be exactly what you read in the Bible. In this dramatized version, shepherds traveling to see Jesus have to confront the devil in order to continue. While the Spanish introduced this custom to Mexico during their evangelization efforts, it’s become a wholly Mexican form of cultural expression, combining Christian beliefs with indigenous traditions.
The pastorela is based on the nativity story…with plenty of creative flourishes. Similarly, you’ll find many natividades outside homes and churches around Christmas in Mexico City.
A fantastic place to experience a traditional pastorela is Tepotzotlan, an old-fashioned town north of Mexico City. The play is held in the courtyard of a stunning colonial museum, making for an atmospheric setting. Even better, you get the chance to participate in a Christmas posada as well! During the show, enjoy ponche, classic seasonal foods like buñuelos (sweet fritters), and piñata breaking. These piñatas are made out of clay, the way they were centuries ago.
Folkloric Ballet
Imagine watching a ballet performance with this view — Chapultepec Castle rises above Mexico City’s skyline.
Finally, during December and a bit of January, Mexico City’s lauded Ballet Folklórico puts on a spectacular show: Navidades en México (Christmas in Mexico). This dance performance features Christmas customs and celebrations from around the country. But most importantly, the setting is the famous Chapultepec Castle, the historic fortress perched above the city. Enjoy panoramic views of Mexico City while you drink in the sheer diversity of Mexican traditions, centered around this one holiday.
To me, nothing reflects the vivacity and color of daily life in Mexico City more than language. Locals have invented countless slang words over the course of the city’s long history. Some of them date back to Aztec times, while others are hilarious Mexican-izations of American phrases. All of these words reveal the creativity, cultural blending, and constant changes that drive this city.
Here, I’ve compiled a list of my favorite “chilangüismos”: slang words used mostly in Mexico City, though some phrases are used in other parts of Mexico.* I hope they help you communicate, relate to locals, and give you insight into the city’s unique culture! There are simply too many phrases for one post, so I’ll explore this topic more in the future!
Chilango:
If you’re going to learn one bit of Mexico City slang, let it be the word “Chilango.” This refers to Mexico City residents themselves, whether they were born here or not. Locals often dispute its origin, possibly linking it back to the Nahuatl (language of the Aztecs and many other Central Mexican peoples) word “chilan-co,” which once referred to people from Central Mexico. The phrase became popular in other states around Mexico, where, ahem, Mexico City residents aren’t always beloved. Folks say “Haz patria y mata a un chilango”: literally “be patriotic and kill a chilango,” but more an insult than a real threat. Chilangos took the insult in stride, and reclaimed it as a word of pride. These days, the city’s magazine is called Chilango, and is a great resource for local information.
Many Mexico City residents, whether they were born here or not, consider themselves chilangos. Defeños, on the other hand, are a more rarified group — they were born in Mexico City, and some view chilangos as outsiders or interlopers. The term comes from D.F., Distrito Federal (Federal District), which is what Mexico City used to be called. This designation, similar to Washington D.C., came with issues of representation, and so a few years they officially transformed Mexico City into its own state. The Federal District is no more.
De provincia:
This is one of the snootiest Mexico City slang phrases out there. “De provincia,” literally “provincial” is almost always used in a derogatory way to imply that people from outside the capital are less sophisticated simpletons or rubes. Not one of my favorite local phrases, but an important one to understand attitudes that some in the city do have.
Edomex:
This is the last term I’ll discuss that deals with location and residency. “Edomex” simply shortens “Estado de México,” Mexico State. This is the state that surrounds Mexico City, and makes up the Metro Area of the huge capital, over doubling its size.
“When someone lives in Mexico State…and thinks they’re a defeño.” Note: Mexico City folks love to hate on Mexico State! I don’t endorse this view (or this meme) myself.
Colonia:
In much of Latin America, and even Latino areas in the U.S., you’ll hear “barrio” all the time to refer to “neighborhood.” Here in Mexico City, the city is split up into huge delegaciones, or districts, and each district has dozens of colonias, or neighborhoods. The other common word you’ll hear for neighborhood is zona, which is more general.
Qué padre:
When you think of Mexico City slang, you most likely think of “Qué padre,” one of Mexico’s most famous phrases. Literally meaning “How daddy,” locals use this to say things are cool or awesome. For example, if a local Chilango shows you their favorite taco stand or city sight, say “Qué padre!” to express your admiration.
“Ohhhh…cool.” Like the way John Oliver says “cool.” The phrase can be used sincerely, or very, very sarcastically.
Guëy:
“Güey” is probably the second most well-known phrase for foreigners in the Mexican lexicon, with “Ay güey!” as its stereotypical use. Güey basically works just like “dude” or “man” in the U.S. — you use it with friends, tacking it onto phrases like “What’s up, man?” The word came from “buey,” meaning ox or bull, to refer insultingly to men, but now it’s lost that meaning. In the internet age, lots of people spell it “wey,” too.
“When you’re Mexican, and you’ve gone five minutes without saying güey/wey.”
Chavo:
“Chavo” is similar to güey, used as a catch-all, casual term for a person, usually young. You would describe that “chavo” who was creepy to you on the subway, or a couple of “chavas” you’re going to hang out with after work. Some linguists think the term, used in different spots in Latin America, came from the gypsy word “chaval,” which meant boy.
No mames:
If you’ve watched a lot of Mexican movies or TV, from the classic “Y Tu Mamá También” to new hit “Narcos México,” you’ve probably heard characters groan “No mames, güey” to complain. In unpleasant or awful situations, Mexicans often turn to this phrase to say “You’re kidding me”… albeit in a more vulgar way. “No mames” is like the “Screw this” of Mexico, but literally, it refers to, ahem, sucking — either related to a baby breastfeeding, or oral sex. Literally, it doesn’t make a ton of sense. Anyways, because of the graphic nature of the phrase, the Televisa TV network started using “No manches,” basically a more polite way to express dissatisfaction.
Are there a lot of Chihuahua memes in Mexico? I’ve got to be honest…yes, yes there are.
La neta:
“La neta” is one of the most common phrases I hear every day in Mexico City. It means “the truth,” but people use it as “honestly” or “on the DL” too, to represent the Absolute Truth. So you’d say “La neta, no me cae bien”: “To be completely honest, I just don’t like him.” You can also use it as a question, as in “¿Es neta?”: “Seriously/Really?” Young Chilangos love the word, and it most likely comes from the French word “net,” which means “clear/pure.”
“Tbh…yeah man.”
Godín:
No one wants to be a Godín, but most of us are. This word basically means a white collar office worker, what Americans used to call a pencil-pusher, and the Japanese call a Salaryman. A Godín has a boring but stable office job, commutes on crowded public transport, and brings a “tupper” (tupperware) with their lunch every day. It’s impossible to track a precise origin of the term, though some say it came from jokes on the popular “El Chavo del 8” comedy show years ago. Regardless, the Godinez (the plural of Godín) are here to stay. As much as we make fun of them, we also identify with them…they’re a reflection of modern city life and Mexican workaholism. So much so, that even Pepsi made a popular ad laughing knowingly at the Godín lifestyle.
“It’s finally Friday! Only 40 years of work left.” The Facebook group “Lo Que Callamos Los Godinez” is a hub of relatable Godín humor.
Al chile:
“Al chile” is a somewhat lewder way to say “la neta,” as in “the truth” or “really?” While technically it refers to the chili pepper, it really has a more phallic connotation…no, I can’t really explain why. Sometimes it’s better to just accept Mexico City slang. Don’t question it. Amusingly, people wanting to be polite will say “al children” as a weird, nonsensical substitute.
“Ok girl, tell me the truth: how do my brows look?”
Chafa:
Chafa means cheap or shoddy, and it’s use all the time in Mexico City. That presentation was chafa, your disappointed professor might say. That girl looks so chafa. That store was super chafa. It has endless uses — there’s plenty of chafa stuff in this giant, crazy city, after all.
When Julie buys a new purse…and it’s cheap af.
Cabrón:
This word is used all over Mexico…but that doesn’t mean you should use it lightly. It is the Mexican equivalent of asshole, as in jerk or idiot. But unlike those English words, friends also use it amongst themselves, as a fake-insulting term of endearment just like “güey.” Cabrón comes from cabra, meaning goat. Be careful using it, as it will be taken as an insult by strangers.
“Ay son…you’re a real a**hole.”
Chido:
If you listen to a conversation between young people in Mexico City, you’ll probably hear “chido” every other sentence before long. This catch-all term expresses admiration; you use it to say something’s cool, awesome, great. It’s used similarly to “padre,” as in “¡Qué chido!” (Cool!) or “Está bien chido” (It’s pretty awesome). The term came from the Asturian word “xidu,” meaning great or beautiful, then on to the Gypsy word “chiro.” Finally in Mexico the “r” rounded out to a “d.”
“Oh really? That’s good for you.”
Pedo:
Like aloha in Hawaii, in Mexican Spanish “pedo” has endless meanings and connotations. Unlike aloha, “pedo” literally means fart. A few of its most common uses are “Qué pedo,” basically “What’s up,” and “Está bien pedo,” as in “He’s wasted.” But there are a LOT of ways to use this term; I could literally dedicate an entire post to it. Instead, I will let beautiful actor and intelligent man Diego Luna explain it to you: his great explanation to Conan O’Brien is here!
Apapachar:
This is one of my personal favorite Mexican slang phrases. Coming from a Nahuatl indigenous root word, this verb basically means “to show care for.” If you look like you need a little TLC, someone might tell you that you need an apapacho, maybe a hug. But this word has a lovelier, deeper meaning. Many Mexicans consider the original Aztec word to truly mean “embrace someone with your soul.”
On rainy days, I need lots of hugs!
Chamba:
Mexico City is a metropolis of hustlers, in the best sense of the word. Chilangos work hard, with long hours and higher cost-of-living than the rest of the country. Many of my friends and coworkers do freelance in addition to their day job. This is all part of “chamba,” which means work, but connotes much more. Mexico City residents are always chambeando, hustling for work and opportunities. It’s part of the fabric of this “work hard, play hard” city.
“So what you’re telling me is…now we have more work?”
¡Híjole!:
This expression is usually used when someone is surprised or shocked. If a pedestrian steps out in front of a car and narrowly misses getting hit, most likely both the driver and the pedestrian will exclaim “¡Híjole!”…before shouting something nastier along the lines of “¡Cabrón!” at each other. The phrase actually began as a euphemism for the vulgar expression “hijo de la chingada,” which is kinda the Spanish version of, ahem, motherf**ker. The phrase shortened (also trying to make it less vulgar) to hijo-e-la and morphed into “Híjole.” Use it when you’re surprised, disapproving, or just don’t know what to say or how to react.
“God, I went all the way to Bolivia, and they didn’t even take me to the beach.” (Making fun of Enrique Peña Nieto, the widely mocked former President of Mexico.)
¡Órale!:
As similar as it sounds to the above phrase, “¡Órale!” can mean almost the exact opposite. It basically means what Matthew McConaughey means when he says “Alright alright alright!” You use it to express affirmation, like when the food comes at the restaurant, or someone invites you to a party. ¡Órale! On the flip side, it can be used similarly to híjole sometimes, to express surprise or shock. Just say it whenever.
I’ll end this glossary with one of the most colorful phrases that Chilango youth currently use to say goodbye. “Popó,” like in some parts of the US, is a nickname for the police, but this has nothing to do with them. Just say “Adiós popó” to be a little silly and ridiculous.
“When the bus driver sees you running full speed towards the bus, and leaves anyway…Adiós popó.”
I hope you’ve enjoyed this glossary of popular Mexico City slang! Toss in a phrase or two with local chilangos, and they will be very impressed. I could never put together a comprehensive list, so let me know what you think I missed!
*On a final note, I haven’t included most Mexico City slang that refers to a certain class or social group. I’m working on a future post about class in Mexico City, so those will appear there!
Mexico offers many of the most vivid, lively, and passionate Holy Week celebrations in the world. This holiday week, called Semana Santa in Mexico City and around the country, forms the week before Easter Sunday. It’s one of the most important holidays of the year in Mexico, a heavily Catholic country, and it shows. I began my Holy Week celebrations on Palm Sunday with a unique pilgrimage to the Basilica of Guadalupe. Every Palm Sunday, hundreds of pajareros, the traditional bird-sellers of Mexico, come from around the country to this famous basilica to bless their birds and businesses. The result is a surreal, unimaginably vivid sight.
The bird-sellers wait to enter the basilica for mass.
Palm Sunday at the Basilica of Guadalupe
The centuries-old Basilica of Guadalupe draws millions of pilgrims every year to worship Mexico’s Virgin of Guadalupe. I’ll have to do a post soon on the Basilica itself; there is too much to explain here! It’s the site where the Virgin of Guadalupe appeared to Juan Diego, an indigenous convert, in colonial times. Today, 12 million people come every year to behold the manta, the blanket, on which the Virgin’s image miraculously appeared. Palm Sunday was lively with worshippers from all over, including several I met from the Ivory Coast, and a group of Mexican cowboys who had ridden there on horseback.
The Basilica of Guadalupe is lively with worshippers on Palm Sunday.
The Basilica and the Bird-Sellers: A Mini-History
But for decades, Palm Sunday has meant one thing for the basilica: the pajareros, the bird-sellers. Over a century ago, there were thousands of bird-sellers all around the country, and one, they say, on every street corner in Mexico City. In colorful cages, they sold domestic and wild-caught songbirds, from parakeets to robins — popular pets at the time. This year (2019) marked the 77th anniversary of the bird-sellers’ pilgrimage to the basilica.
The pajareros create elaborately decorated bird cages to be blessed.
Today, songbirds are much less popular, and especially amid increased awareness for animal rights, the bird-sellers are slowly dying out. But this traditional profession lives on for some families, who have passed it down through the generations. On Palm Sunday, they arrive from throughout the country, walking up the long Calzada de Guadalupe until they arrive at the Basilica. Their colorful, incredibly tall cages strapped to their backs, birdsong fills the air.
Bird-selling is a long-standing tradition throughout Mexico, though it’s greatly declining these days.
The Ethics of Bird-Selling
Now, let’s get this out of the way: I don’t condone this kind of bird-selling, especially of those that are wild-caught. The birds are not for sale on Palm Sunday — the bird-sellers are forbidden from selling them in the Basilica grounds. But regardless, I have very mixed feelings about this practice in the modern-day.
Many pajareros bring photos of their parents or grandparents, to honor them and the family tradition.
That said, no matter what you think of its ethics, bird-selling has played an important traditional role in Mexico. I met families who’d brought their babies with them, strapping a tiny cage onto his back with tiny toy birds inside. Four generations of bird-sellers in the family were represented there, and others had placed photos of their deceased fathers, bird-sellers themselves, as a touching tribute on the cages.
Many families have passed on this calling for several generations.
The Artistry of the Pajareros
On top of all that, the artistry, passion, and creativity the pajareros put into these 10-foot-tall cages is unbelievable. You couldn’t imagine a more surreal scene: with an explosion of color and song all around, I couldn’t help but feel joy at that aspect of the pilgrimage. Pajareros paint every cage vividly and decorate them with thousands of flowers. These must have taken their creators a long time to make. Of all the celebrations I saw during Semana Santa in Mexico City, this was perhaps the most unique.
I know why the caged bird sings — this complicated practice invokes mixed emotions.
Finally, all this to say: it’s complicated. It made me sad to see many, many kinds of birds in cages, from exotic ones to common songbirds I’ve seen free in my Midwest backyard. There’s no getting around that. But I also appreciate the beautiful aspects of this long-standing tradition, especially the bird-sellers’ remarkable creativity. At the end of the day, I reserve my full judgement, because this is a way of life, and a way to make a living, for families who have passed this job from father to son, and mother to daughter. Do I hope songbird-selling continues, anywhere in the world? Probably not. But I hope this beautiful pilgrimage finds a way to survive and adapt, as societal values shift and evolve.
It’s easy to head north in Mexico City and visit La Villa, where the basilica sits.
How to See the Pajarero’s Pilgrimage
When:
This event takes place on Palm Sunday, which of course will vary every year. In fact, this day marks the beginning of Semana Santa in Mexico City. The Spanish name for the Catholic holiday is Domingo de Ramos. The pajareros get together in the morning, starting around 9 or 10 AM, but they don’t arrive at the basilica until around noon. That’s when I recommend arriving at the basilica to see them.
Pilgrims come from around the world to worship the Virgin of Guadalupe at the basilica.
Where:
The pajareros begin at the Glorieta de Peralvillo, a roundabout where the Calzada de Guadalupe begins. This is the long avenue that leads up to the Basilica de Guadalupe, and where pilgrims walk to the basilica. It’s a long walk, and I recommend you go straight to the basilica to see them. You can tell any cab or Uber driver “Basilica de Guadalupe”, and they’ll take you there — around 25 minutes from downtown, way to the north. The red Line 6 of the metro goes straight there, to the Basilica stop; or take the more centric green Line 3 to the Deportivo 18 de Marzo stop, and walk east for 10 mins to get there. The green line 7 of the Metrobus (the big red buses you’ll see in cordoned-off areas of major avenues) also goes there, getting off at the Garrido Stop.
Another touching tribute to a relative who’s passed away.
Above all, this is a day about tradition, creative expression, and family ties. It was clear to me that many bird-sellers were passionate about their professions, and took care of their small charges. Whether you find this tradition charming or outdated, it’s a memorable and fascinating experience. Most of all, this experience gave me insight into the complex contradictions of modern Mexico.
Just a short drive from Puebla City and a few hours from Mexico City, Atlixco is worlds away from these modern hubs. This mountainous village, overlooking distant Popocatepetl volcano, is one of Mexico’s most charming “pueblos mágicos.” This official designation, literally meaning “magic town,” goes to the country’s most historic, beautiful small towns. Atlixco certainly fits the bill, with some of the best views, architecture, and food in Mexico. After a wonderful visit with friends this winter, I’d love to share some things to do and see in Atlixco.
All About the Pueblo Mágico of Atlixco
Puebla State sits southeast of Mexico City, and is full of lovely small towns, parks, and natural beauty. Atlixco is one of the state’s most popular destinations due to its perfect climate and colonial splendor. The town’s name means “water in the valley” in the indigenous Nahuatl language, and Atlixco is indeed a kind of valley paradise. Although indigenous people had lived in this mountainous valley for centuries, and the Aztec Empire conquered the area, the Spanish officially founded the town in 1579.
Lovely Atlixco is one of the most colorful colonial towns in Mexico.
Atlixco has a warm, humid microclimate that makes it perfect for growing all kinds of plants — it’s like a big, outdoor greenhouse. Over the years, in fact, that became the magic town’s main industry: known as “Atlixco de las Flores” (Atlixco of the Flowers), the town is still home to many nurseries and flower sellers. This makes it lush and green year-round, even sending lots of cut flowers to the U.S. The flowers, combined with immaculate colonial architecture climbing up the hills, creates stunning vistas.
With panoramic views and colonial charm, Atlixco is one of my favorite pueblos mágicos (magic towns) in Mexico.
Things to Do in Atlixco
Eat at the Town Market:
In many cities and villages, you won’t find the best food in the fancy restaurant. It’s in the local market, where dozens of vendors bring regional flavors to the freshest of ingredients. Atlixco, and Puebla State in general, are famous for local delicacies. At the town’s market, Mercado Juárez, try village specialties like Atlixco’s famous chicken-chipotle consommé, and state classics like delicious Mole Poblano and Cemitas (a heavenly Puebla sandwich).
The town is steeped in tradition, reflected in its historic streets, local cuisine, and lively markets.
Discover Atlixco’s Historic Churches:
Atlixco is famous for the beauty of its many, many churches. These colonial gems typically feature the Folk Baroque style, which reflects elaborate Spanish tastes and local traditions, materials, and indigenous handiwork. I fell in love with this unique style, which is both ornate and down-to-earth, grandiosely European and colorfully Mexican. San Francisco Monastery and Church, a pared-down 16th Century example, offer gorgeous views. San Agustín Church, with a decorative, bright yellow facade, is my personal favorite.
The San Agustín Church shows off the Folk Baroque style for which the town is known.
Climb the Cerro de San Miguel:
When you arrive in Atlixco, you’ll immediately see the Cerro de San Miguel, a hill and colonial church overlooking the town. Every street seems to lead up to it, and you climb and climb before reaching it. Follow any of these steep cobblestone streets up, and you’ll get to the base of the hill. It might appear sketchy, but just head up one of the overgrown trails here — Atlixco is a pretty safe, sleepy town, but I suggest going with friends for peace of mind. Finally, you’ll arrive at the “mirador”: the town’s panoramic overlook. The tiny chapel at the top is often closed to the public, but hosts a pilgrimage the last Sunday of September.
Enjoy spectacular views of the valley below from the Cerro de San Miguel — it’s worth the trek up.
Taste Local Sweets, Coffee, and People Watch in the Zócalo:
The town’s zócalo (main square) is one of the prettiest in Mexico. There’s plenty of nice spots to sit and watch the world go by, but even better, grab an iced coffee on the mosaic-ed terrace at The Italian Coffee Company. To satisfy your sweet tooth, many street vendors sell regional treats. Try camotes (sweet potato candies) or Tortitas de Santa Clara (pumpkin seed and shortbread cookies) for classic Puebla flavors.
Visit the Plant Nurseries:
Atlixco of the Flowers is known nationwide for its viveros (nurseries), so it would be a shame to miss them. They’re a bit outside the town’s center, but you can hail a cab and ask them to take you to the “Viveros de Atlixco.” Enjoy the lush greenery, colorful flowers, and balmy climate. If you’re a millennial, you’ll surely be taking some Insta pics out here.
Atlixco’s perennial blue skies and lush greenery are well-known around the country.
Check Out the Seasonal Festivities:
Atlixco is a cradle of local tradition, and that extends to its yearly religious and cultural celebrations. The Festival Huey Atlixcayotl in late September brings many visitors to town to honor Quetzalcóatl, the Feathered Serpent God of many Central Mexican peoples. This lively celebration is an incredible experience reflecting regional culture (11 different local cultures!) with dance and artisanry. Day of the Dead brings a spectacular tapete (artistic flower carpet) created by local artisans, and a Catrina (Mexican skeleton) festival on November 2. Finally, the town is famous for its beautiful Festival of Christmas Lights, from December through early January.
Religious pilgrims visit Atlixco’s churches for seasonal festivities.
How to Get to Atlixco
By Car:
If you’re driving, you can get to Atlixco fairly easily from Mexico City. Take the Autopista (Highway) Mexico-Puebla heading southeast from the capital, and take the Atlixco exit just as you’re passing the town of San Francisco Ocotlán. It should take you 2-3 hours depending on traffic, and bring cash and coins for tolls. That said, if you’re going all the way to Atlixco, it makes much more sense to visit Puebla City, too! This state capital enchants in its own right and is well worth a night’s visit (or more). From Puebla City, just take the Carretera Federal Puebla-Atlixco, and you’ll arrive in about half an hour.
Getting to Atlixco is a breeze. Getting up the town’s steep, hilly streets, on the other hand…
By Bus:
Bus travel is an easy, stress-free way to get to Atlixco, and the method I recommend. Once again, this makes the most sense if you’re staying in Puebla City for at least a night. You can take frequent, cheap, and comfy buses from CAPU, Puebla’s main bus station, to Atlixco. They run every 10-15 minutes and are a great option. Look for the Oro bus line, and expect to pay about 35 pesos. It’ll take around half an hour, and wait til you’re at Atlixco’s tiny bus station to get off. Then just head up, following other passengers, to reach the town center.
Getting to Atlixco is easy and cheap, so there’s really no excuse not to visit. You won’t regret experiencing this charming small town — one of my favorite pueblos mágicos in the country!
It may sound overdramatic, but Mexico City spring is genuinely magical for me. Every walk outside brings new little joys: nooks and crannies filled with bougainvillea, climbing nasturtiums, and shady canopies of jacaranda. The other day, I took a ride down the segundo piso, the city’s raised highway, heading south. The high platform affords you panoramic views of the city, but this time, all I could look at were the purple tops of the jacaranda trees. Thousands of them bloom in every corner of the city during March and April, and I enter my personal heaven.
Let’s be honest — it’s spring in Mexico City all year round. But “real spring,” after a sunny and dry winter, does bring an amazing abundance of new blooms and clear skies. Here, I’ve narrowed down the best spots to experience Mexico City spring. Enjoy (I urge you, unironically and enthusiastically), the magic!
1. Botanical Garden of the Bosque de Chapultepec
Nestled just off busy, flower-lined Reforma Avenue, this Botanical Garden is the best place to see a lovely variety of spring flowers. It’s inside the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s Central Park, so really the garden is an oasis within an oasis. The plant varieties change throughout the seasons, and spring brings an explosion of blooms from around Mexico and the world.
2. Parque México
For Mexico City locals, springtime means one thing: jacaranda trees. These purple-hued flowering trees are so prolific in the city, many think they’re native plants. In fact, jacarandas most likely came to Mexico City from Manaus, Brasil. The tree arrived at the gulf port of Veracruz, slowly making its way from garden to garden, all the way to the capital!
The arrival of the jacaranda blooms, carpeting Mexico City in rich purple petals, unequivocally signals spring.
Today, its spectacular purple blooms carpet the city every spring, and make my heart very, very happy. In leafy Parque México in the La Condesa neighborhood, dozens of jacaranda trees line the street, littering sidewalks and grass with their petals until the whole park is purple. Spend a lazy weekend afternoon here, with a coffee and a good book on the patio at Caffé Toscano. You will not regret it.
3. The Side Streets of Coyoacán
For me, often the best way to enjoy a warm spring day is to pick some place in the city I know, start walking in whatever direction looks prettiest, and see where I end up. That’s how I found myself on Francisco Sosa Avenue in Coyoacán one March afternoon. I’ve always loved Coyoacán, the southern neighborhood where Frida Kahlo lived, for its small-town, bohemian atmosphere. But when I stumbled onto this street and its surroundings, I arrived at another level of beauty and charm.
Coyoacán’s narrow cobblestone streets, colonial houses, and overflowing gardens make for one of the best spring walks in Mexico City.
From the center plaza (Jardín Centenario) of Coyoacán, head west along Avenida Francisco Sosa, towards the Viveros de Coyoacán. You can explore the Viveros, a lovely park that grows many of the young trees and plants that end up in other parks. But don’t miss the side streets themselves. This part of the neighborhood really does feel like an old, colonial village, riddled with narrow cobblestone alleyways. Bougainvillea and lush vines spill over everything, while plenty of jacarandas provide shade from the spring sun.
4. The Alameda Central
Nowhere evokes classic, turn-of-the-century Mexico City more than the Alameda Central. Among the stately trees and monuments, you can easily imagine elite defeños (those born in Mexico City) strolling down the main promenade in centuries past. In fact, the Alameda is the oldest public park in the Americas! The park forms a long, splendid walkway through downtown, in between Juarez and Hidalgo Avenues. The area was once an Aztec marketplace, and after the Spanish conquest, Mexico City’s new rulers established the park in 1592. They named it for the álamos, or poplar trees, that fill the park.
Mexico City’s center has plenty of wonderful spring spots too, from the Alameda to lovely Roma neighborhood, shown here.
But for many decades now, the Alameda has been best known for the other famous tree that grows here: the jacaranda, of course. This is one of the undisputed best spots to see the purple blooms, and aerial shots of the Alameda show the full, spectacular effect.
5. The Bosque de Tlalpan
Finally, I encourage you to experience the wilder side of Mexico City spring and get a bit off-the-beaten track at the Bosque de Tlalpan. This expansive protected forest sits in the south of the city, providing much-needed green space among the fresh air and foothills. The Bosque de Tlalpan is best-beloved for its towering bougainvillea plants, showering the paths with magenta petals. On Sundays, head to the church at the entrance of the forest for a weekend market, pick up some fresh produce and homemade ice cream, and venture in for a spring picnic.
Mexico City’s several bosques (forests) are fantastic spring spots, from the Bosque de Chapultepec shown here, to the Bosque de Tlalpan.
This is not a comprehensive list by any means — there are hundreds of fantastic spots to experience Mexico City spring. But I hope these inspire you to explore: just pick a Point A and start walking!
