What to See in Coyoacán: A Guide to Mexico City’s Colorful Colonia, Part 1

Nearly every visitor to Mexico City sets foot in Coyoacán. They’re drawn here for one major reason: the Casa Azul, or Blue House, iconic artist Frida Kahlo’s home and museum. While the Blue House is undoubtedly touristy, I’ll admit that it truly is a must-see. When you visit the Coyoacán neighborhood, however, you can find so much more than this one beautiful building! Beyond the Frida Kahlo Museum, you’ll uncover layer upon layer of fascinating history — from Hernán Cortés and his conquistador army, to ghostly centuries-old legends, to famous writers, directors, and even movie stars who called this place home.

A glimpse of what you can see when you venture off the well-trodden tourist path in Coyoacán.

In this Mexico City travel guide, I’ll delve into where to go and what to see in Coyoacán. I live near this stunning neighborhood, and often walk here to destress and get some much-needed quiet within the city. I’ll structure this guide as I do my own explorations: as a meandering walk through the neighborhood. Feel free to follow it when you visit Coyoacán, and let me know what you discover along the way!

This is Part 1 of the Coyoacán neighborhood guide, covering Frida and Trotsky’s homes, the market, the colonia’s center, and plentiful detours. Stay tuned in the coming weeks for Part 2! It will take you further into Coyoacán’s oldest street, Francisco Sosa, and its most iconic park.

Two Small Notes:

To use this as a walking guide, click on the purple-colored place names I’ve included throughout the article! These will take you directly to Google Maps links for each spot, so you can orient yourself. Or just write me, and I can show you around myself!
Today, Coyoacán is the name of an “alcaldía” of Mexico City: a sprawling municipality with many distinct neighborhoods. However, its center was once the ancient village of Coyoacán — spots like Del Carmen and Santa Catarina — and they’ll be my primary focus for the guides, as they form the most historic and walkable area. Many people consider this area to be the original neighborhood of Coyoacán.

Walking in the Footsteps of Frida, Diego, & Trotsky

Frida Kahlo shared this home with her husband (married two separate times) Diego Rivera for a number of years. Today, it serves as the main tourism draw in Coyoacán, and an iconic Mexico City museum.

For most of you, the Blue House will undoubtedly be your introduction to Coyoacán — perhaps even one of the main reasons you wanted to visit Mexico City! In my opinion, this is wholly justified. (My only wish is that people also explore beyond this well-known site! And, frankly, look beyond the glamorized, commercialized image of Frida that companies use to sell their products, getting to know the real, complex artist behind the image.) Even when crowded, Frida’s home is a work of art that reflects her life philosophy and immense creativity. She grew up here, and later moved back as an adult, transforming the house into an extension of Kahlo and Rivera’s boundless artistic vision.

Frida Kahlo’s house sits on the northern edge of Coyoacán. It may be hard to imagine today, as you pull off the busy highway and arrive at the museum, but when Frida was born here at the turn of the 20th Century, this was considered the very outskirts of Mexico City. Coyoacán was a sleepy, colonial village slowly being swallowed up by the capital’s expansion.

Frida and Diego’s erstwhile home actually sat in relative obscurity for decades, before Frida’s more recent “rediscovery” by the global public made it the must-see spot in Coyoacán.

Important Advice: How to Visit the Frida Kahlo Museum Stress-Free

Time and time again, my visitors in Mexico City have encountered the same issues when seeing the Blue House. Everyone wants to visit, but not many know that they should plan in advance. On multiple occasions, my visitors weren’t aware of just how popular this destination is. By the time they arrived, the museum was completely full! Because of this, I strongly recommend that several weeks before your trip, you buy tickets ahead of time here. Make sure you buy them from the official website, boletosfridakahlo.org, to avoid scams or up-charges from tour companies. If you don’t purchase in advance, there’s a good chance that tickets may be sold out when you get to the Casa Azul. I also suggest buying tickets for a weekday morning, as the afternoons and weekends are especially crowded at this famous site.

A lesser-known exhibition at the *Casa Azul* displays many of Frida Kahlo’s dresses. It’s much more than a typical “fashion” exhibit, though. Really, it presents a thoughtful and complex exploration of Frida’s life philosophy, cultural expression, and identity as a person with disabilities.

My other tip for the Frida Kahlo Museum? Many visitors miss one of its loveliest exhibits, “Appearances are Deceiving: The Dresses of Frida Kahlo.” This is a separate building within the complex, to the far right of the entrance past the gardens and pyramid sculpture. A permanent exhibition, it features dozens of pieces from Frida’s legendary wardrobe, many inspired by the Tehuana culture from Oaxaca State. Whether you’re a fashion lover or not, this part of the museum provides deep insight. It explores Frida’s disabilities, cultural identity, and politics — and how she used clothing to turn herself into a complex work of art.

More to See in Northern Coyoacán: The León Trotsky Museum

About two blocks away, you can easily visit the Leon Trotsky Museum as well. After receiving asylum from the Mexican government, Trotsky and his wife Natasha lived with Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera in the Blue House for two years. Then, perhaps due to an affair between Trotsky and Kahlo, they moved to this (appropriately) red colonial home just a stone’s throw away. The modest house is much less crowded than Frida’s home, and you can tour it in 30 to 60 minutes. (Depending on your level of interest in the highly-detailed timeline of global Communism at the entrance.) See how Trotsky lived out his last few years, reading texts and recording hours of his thoughts in the study.

The Trotsky house’s lush garden features a memorial to the Communist thinker.

Soon after, a supposed colleague — the Stalinist spy Ramón Mercader — fatally stabbed him with an ice pick in that very room, assassinating Trotsky on behalf of the Soviet Union. In the nearby bedroom, you can see bullet holes from a previous assassination attempt, led by famed Mexican muralist David Alfonso Siquieros. At the end of the self-guided tour, you can contemplate the hammer and sickle memorial in the lush patio garden. Cuban author Leonardo Padura’s novel The Man Who Loved Dogs explores this assassination and the man behind it — a fascinating read! This unassuming Little Red House is at the crux of so much global history…

Getting There

It’s easy to see this area of Coyoacán from any part of Mexico City, especially if you take care to avoid arriving or leaving during rush hour from 4-7 PM. You can take an Uber, Didi, or taxi. Most likely, you’ll arrive in 30-40 minutes from centric areas like Roma, Condesa, or Polanco. Via public transportation, you can take the Line 3 (Green) subway in the Universidad direction. Get off at the Coyoacán stop and walk several blocks through the neighborhood to arrive at the museums.

León Trotsky’s Coyoacán study, where he produced new political writings constantly — and died at the hands of Ramón Mercader and his ice pick.

Frida Kahlo tickets cost 320 pesos for foreigners. As I mentioned above, it’s best to buy them online ahead of time to avoid any hiccups. The museum is open from 10 AM – 6 PM each day, except for Wednesdays, when it opens an hour earlier. The Trotsky Museum only costs 40 pesos to enter, and you don’t need to reserve beforehand. It’s open from 10 AM to 5 PM, and sometimes offers cultural activities related to Trotsky and his work. Both museums — and, in fact, almost all museums in Mexico City — are closed on Mondays. Because of this, I’m working on a guide recommending what to do in the city on Mondays…

Detours

There’s more to see in each part of Coyoacán than I could possibly describe — and this is just Part 1 of the guide! Just across the highway (and easily reached) in the traditional Xoco neighborhood, you’ll find a lovely cemetery graced with elegant tombstones and jacaranda trees.

The *Cineteca Nacional* is one of my favorite spots in Southern Mexico City. On top of their wonderful film selection, I love enjoying a drink or dinner here, and sitting outdoors to watch a movie at the “*Cine al Aire Libre*.” During the pandemic, this was the only way I could enjoy a big-screen movie!

Right next door is the beloved Cineteca Nacional, Mexico City’s National Cinema. This modernist movie theater features fantastic Mexican films and many independent and classic movies, as well as several restaurants, cafés, and bars. (Chicha is my favorite restaurant there, try the flores de calabaza and flautas de jamaica!) It’s worth a visit for its incredible ambience, architecture, and of course a plethora of great films!

Exploring Central Coyoacán: Markets, Street Food, and Ancient History

Once you’ve finished up at the Casa Azul and Trotsky Museum, it’s time to delve into the heart of this historic neighborhood. Meander just a few blocks south from Frida’s Blue House on Ignacio Allende Street to the Mercado de Coyoacán. Because of Frida’s popularity, the market has evolved into a hybrid of tourist and local offerings. The city block-sized mercado‘s edges are lined with folkloric clothing and Frida souvenirs, but walk into its depths and you’ll still see plenty of Coyoacán residents shopping for fresh produce, household goods, plants, and supplies, as well as enjoying lunch at quick, tasty food stands.

The *Mercado de Coyoacán* is a fascinating jumble of everyday items, delicious snacks and produce, and traveler-oriented gifts, like souvenirs and artisanry. It’s a great example of what to see in Coyoacán: street food and local atmosphere alike.

This is a fun place to grab gifts for friends or family back home, including lovely woven baskets, and to sample unique fruits like mamey, granada china, and zapote negro. Of course, you can try popular Mexico City street foods like elote, esquites, and (my favorite) pambazos here as well! Be sure to bring cash (efectivo) in smaller peso bills and buy from the busiest stands, as locals know best. Keep in mind that due to the tourist presence, prices here may be inflated, and not all products are artisanal. For a better artisanry selection, I much prefer La Ciudadela Market and other vetted gift spots.

What to see in Downtown Coyoacán: Place of the Coyotes

On the weekends, Central Coyoacán becomes a gathering place for neighbors and families from all over Mexico City. They come to enjoy street food, performances, and the area’s lively atmosphere.

After the market, continue south towards Coyoacán’s center. Before the mega-city swallowed it up, Coyoacán was actually a small village on the edge of Lake Texcoco. Appreciate the Prehispanic and colonial history soaked into every cobblestone as you make your way towards the Jardín Hidalgo and Jardín Centenario, the two interconnecting plazas at the heart of Coyoacán. These central squares are home to an infinite number of historical and cultural spots. It would take me a full day to describe them all, but if this article leaves you wanting more, feel free to write me and perhaps I can show you around. I’ll try my best to bring them to life here!

Look for “Coyohuacan” in the mid-left of this map to see where modern-day Coyoacán sat near Texcoco Lake, later drained and filled in by the Spanish. Image courtesy of *Ciencia UNAM.*

Age-Old (Explosive) History and Coyohuaca Culture

If you went back even earlier in the history of Mexico City — nearly 2,000 years ago — you’d witness the volcano Xitle’s violent explosion. In fact, this decades-long eruption covered the southern valley in ash and lava. In the centuries that followed, the strong, porous dried lava — known as tezontle — became the main building material in many indigenous and Spanish constructions. As a result, you can still see this beautifully textured stone all over Coyoacán. Look for deep black rock covered in tiny holes: that’s tezontle.

Ancient, colonial, and modern Mexicans in the Coyoacán area have used *tezontle*, volcanic rock, as a durable and lightweight building material.

The Coyohuaca people, a Nahuatl-speaking culture, lived in this area for hundreds of years before the Mexica (Aztecs) conquered them. This was “the place of the coyotes,” a name still reflected in the striking fountain featuring two coyotes on the far right side of the plaza. Because the Mexica had oppressed native residents, when the Spanish arrived on Lake Texcoco’s shores in 1519 they found allies among people in Coyoacán and elsewhere.

To your right as you enter the square, there’s a long, blood-red building known as the Casa de Cortés. Today, this handsome building is the municipal headquarters for the neighborhood, but many believe that conquistador Hernán Cortés based his operations here as he plotted to conquer Tenochtitlán, the mighty Mexica (Aztec) capital just to the north. In fact, the myth-ridden structure was actually built in 1755, long after Cortés had died, by his descendants! Some history buffs still say that this piece of land — if not the building itself — was the site where Cortés and his henchmen tortured the Mexica (Aztec) emperor Cuauhtémoc, forcing him to reveal his empire’s treasures. (You can head a bit further south to the Plaza de la Conchita to see his supposed real house, shared with La Malinche. See more in my “Detours” section below!)

The *Casa de Cortés* is home to many rumors swirling around the man who “conquered” Mexico for Spain, Hernán Cortés. It stretches along the entire plaza garden.

Coyoacán’s Ghosts, from Spanish Monks to Revolutionary Soldiers

The rest of Coyoacán’s striking central square is equally packed with stories. There’s endless details to see in Coyoacán — the challenge is what to focus on. In fact, it’s quite literally a walk through centuries of Mexican history, from ancient times to the modern-day. Peek at the traditional colonia‘s parish church, the somber, stone-facade of the Parroquia San Juan Bautista.

Coyoacán’s stunning, centuries-old parish church as the sun sets. Plants sprout from its crumbling bell tower.

Inside, it’s quite lovely, and more lavish than you might expect from outside. Built in 1522, the impressive structure once held a large colonial monastery as well. The entire grounds of the Coyoacán plaza, in fact, were once part of the monastery’s gardens. Today, it remains a thriving center for community worship. Outside its doors, street performers like clowns, magicians, and indigenous dancers often share their gifts with delighted crowds — especially on the weekends.

The Coyoacán church’s ornate interior belies its relatively simple stone facade.

A Historical Eye-Spy: Stories Stretching Out in Every Direction

Right in the middle of the square, you’ll spot a pretty wrought-iron gazebo. Depending on the season, it may be adorned with a nativity scene, patriotic banners, or even marigolds during Day of the Dead. A detailed rendition of the national symbol — an eagle with a serpent in its mouth perched on a cactus — is always at the very top. French-made, the Kiosko de Coyoacán, as locals know it, was built by dictator Porfirio Díaz in 1900 to commemorate Mexican independence. Just a decade later, though, Mexicans across the country would rise up against the president and end his Porfiriato (as the leader’s reign is known) for good, initiating ten years of the bloody, civil war-like Mexican Revolution.

The unassuming *Kiosko de Coyoacán* contains so many years of Mexican history, from the “Porfiriato” dictatorship to the Revolution to present-day performances.

That takes us to the colorful facades of two classic Mexico City cantinas, La Guadalupana and La Coyoacana, just behind the church. These old-school drinking halls will take you right back to their glory days nearly 100 years ago! Squint, and you can almost see soldiers of bygone conflicts standing in the shadows, tequila and rifle in hand. La Coyoacana remains open, and while La Guadalupana closed for a while, it appears to have reopened in a limited capacity.

Cantina La Guadalupana, sadly now closed, dates back to the 1930s. The building maintains its colorful, classic feel.

Finally, if you look straight ahead, you’ll see a lovely stone archway. Remember when I said that this entire plaza was once part of the San Juan Bautista church and monastery? Those arches are what remain of the monastery’s garden walls. Try to spy the figures of shadowy monks out of the corner of your eye. In Part 2 of this guide, it’ll be time to walk through those arches and continue the journey through time!

Walk through Coyoacán’s famed archways, and venture back in time — coming in Part 2 of the neighborhood guide!

Getting There

Even if you’re not walking to downtown Coyoacán from the Frida Kahlo or Trotsky museums, it’s still pretty easy to get to the plaza. Take the subway, Line 3 (Green) towards Universidad and exit at Viveros/Derechos Humanos. Alternatively, you can take the Line 2 (Blue) towards Tasqueña and get off at General Anaya. Either way, you’ll have a 20 to 30 minute walk to the neighborhood’s lively center.

Of course, you can also take an Uber, Didi, or taxi. Just be aware that on the weekends, downtown Coyoacán’s traffic gets bad. You might actually want to get out and walk before reaching the main plaza.

Where to Eat

Whether you’re in the mood for savory, flavorful street tacos or elegant small plates, Coyoacán has a fascinating blend of foodie delights.

Central Coyoacán in bursting with food options, from casual street eats to some of Mexico City’s most elegant restaurants. On the weekends, Ignacio Allende and Aguayo streets are packed with stands, selling street food classics like elote and pambazos. For consistently excellent street-style classics, I love the Mercado de Antojitos. I’ve always had great experiences with the talented cooks at this small market — try the Michoacán-style pozole! Bring cash (pesos, of course) just in case.

When I want to show my guests a real fine-dining gem, I take them to Los Danzantes. This restaurant may have the best location and ambience in Coyoacán. It’s situated right on the main square, and candlelit evenings there are truly romantic. The menu is a mix of Oaxacan, other regional Mexican specialties, and great mezcals and wines. Just be aware that if your outdoor table’s right next to the plaza, there will be plenty of vendors and buskers.

*Los Danzantes* is an iconic part of Central Coyoacán’s restaurant scene — by no means cheap, but a fantastic option for a fancier meal.

Detours

If you have more time and want to stick around this area, there’s plenty more to see in central Coyoacán. Just off the main square, you can pop into the Museo Nacional de las Culturas Populares (Museum of Popular Culture). This small, charming building features rotating exhibitions on Mexican folk art, and often hosts festivals or bazaars on the weekends.

The *Museo Nacional de las Culturas Populares* often hosts cultural events and folklore fairs.

If you continue to the east and south, you’ll come across two more treasures of Coyoacán. First, the Centro Cultural Elena Garro is a spectacular, modernist brick-and-glass bookstore and cultural center. You (well I, at least) could spend hours exploring its collection and enjoying the in-house café. Then, just a block further south, you can visit the Plaza de la Conchita. This tiny neighborhood square is lost in time, centered by a lovely, delicate colonial church. The chapel is considered the oldest European religious building in Mexico. Historians also suspect that Malintzin (La Malinche), the indigenous translator and mistress of conquerer Hernán Cortés, once lived in a house on this plaza.

Final Thoughts

I hope you’ve enjoyed this exploration of what to see in Coyoacán! Remember, this was just Part 1. (I got a little carried away with the details, so decided to split this guide in two.) Next time, stay tuned for a deep-dive into the neighborhood’s oldest street and a stroll through its lush, sprawling park-nursery.

A little glimpse of what’s to come in Part 2…what to see in Coyoacán’s oldest area, down cobblestone streets and winding alleyways.

Return to Chilangolandia: Mexico City Slang Guide, Part 2

Over the years, I’ve published in-depth guides on everything from Mexico City parks to modernist architecture. But nothing has proved as popular as Part 1 of my Mexico City slang guide — not even close! Reflecting on that piece, I realized it only scratches the surface of this city’s rich, varied language. I’m sure I could (and should) do a Part 3, 4, and beyond, but for now, here’s the long-awaited Part 2.

Social Class/Political Identities

Mexico City’s deeply divided, class-stratified society expresses its social complexity through popular language. From ninis to nacos, fifís to fresas, everyone in town — rich, poor, and everything in between — is codified. Keep in mind that I don’t necessarily recommend using these phrases, as some may be considered insulting, classist, or even ethnically charged. Instead, keep your ears pricked when you hear them — I hope knowing these words gives you a deeper understanding of the cultural context in modern Mexico City.

Fresa

Fresa has long been the classic Mexico City slang term for the elite, carrying a connotation of “spoiled rich kid” or snobbish. Although the word literally means strawberry, call someone a fresa in Mexico and people will instantly understand what you mean. Get a hilarious glimpse of fresa culture with the Netflix show “La Casa de las Flores” (“The House of the Flowers”). Set in the tony Mexico City neighborhood of Lomas de Chapultepec, you’ll hear exaggerated fresa accents and enjoy watching the decidedly First World Problems of the city’s elite.

Fifí

While closely associated with fresas, the word fifí has a much stronger political charge. It’s existed for years, but 2018-2024 President Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO) popularized it during his campaign. He often refers to his opponents as fifís: members of the socially conservative middle/upper class. AMLO will portray the typical fifí as wealthy and out of touch, whether they’re protesting his policies or critical members of the press. Because of this, the term has become heavily politicized.

Chairo

Courtesy of *El Diario de Andrés Manuel.*

Chairo, also a political phrase, is a bit like the leftist version of fifí. It’s used frequently by people on the right and center, to refer to those on the left. It describes middle class kids who became “radical,” whether that means activists, hippies, or left-leaning more generally. While they consider themselves as part of the masses, they came from a more privileged background. This leads, according to their detractors, to an inherent hypocrisy. Some may also refer to derechairos, a right-wing equivalent.

Naco/Ñero

“Who are *you* calling a naco?”
(Courtesy of memeandote.com.)

In my experience, every culture has some classist terms for those of lower socioeconomic status. However, in the U.S., it might be “hillbilly,” “white trash,” or “ghetto” — emotionally charged words that often carry racial or regional associations. In Mexico City slang, the most common pejorative I hear is naco, along with its less-used counterpart ñero. While it’s impossible to directly translate slang into English, these seem to correspond closely to “trashy” in English. Naco and ñero will often be used to pass judgement on particular clothing styles or modes of behavior — especially those employed in low-income neighborhoods of Mexico City and Estado de México. These terms are both adjectives and nouns. Folks might call someone a naco, or call a certain trend, attitude or look naco.

Buchón

You could think of buchón as naco’s Northern Mexican counterpart. While it carries a similarly negative “low class” connotation, buchón refers to the narco/cowboy subculture in Northern Mexico. While a buchón may or may not be involved in organized crime, you’re likely to see them in “Wild West” norteño fashion. This could include cowboy hats, curved Sinaloense style boots, belt buckles and other flashy accessories. Central Mexicans often make fun of the buchón look, and its female equivalent buchona, which would stereotypically involve heavy plastic surgery, lots of makeup, and a tight “cowgirl” style.

Nini

This odd term is a shortened version of ni trabaja, ni estudia: “neither works nor studies.” People throw it around as a slightly insulting, yet jokey phrase for twenty or thirty-somethings who haven’t gotten around to accomplishing much. They might still live with their parents and/or depend on them for money. I rarely hear chilangos refer to a specific person as a nini. More commonly, people refer to the group in general, as in “oh, those lazy ninis.”

Chavorruco

A chavorruco, quite literally an “old young person” or “young old person,” is sort of a washed-up club kid in Mexico City slang. They’re now in their thirties or even forties, but continue to party like they’re a college student. This word always makes me laugh, as it has a light, fun connotation. People might jokingly refer to a friend, or even themselves, as “such a chavorruco.”

Mirrey

Speaking of terms with a negative, “lazy” association, mirrey combines the high-income status of fresas with the “do nothing” attitude of a nini. The term refers to spoiled “daddy’s boys,” the privileged teen or adult children of wealthy parents. To get a good sense of this, check out Amazon Prime’s film “Mirreyes contra Godinez,” a comedic take on class distinctions and nepotism in the Mexico City workplace. As you may remember from Part 1 of my slang guide, godinez are middle class office workers.

Güero

Here’s a term that features some of the class, racial, and appearance-based language throughout this section: güero. If you’re a light-skinned or light-haired person in Mexico, you’ve likely heard this word plenty. Güero literally means “whitey,” but as a term of endearment or nickname, similar to how Mexicans might affectionately call their friends flaca (skinny), gordo (fatty), or pequeña (little one). Street sellers, though, will call you güero/güera no matter your appearance. Some theorize this is because historically, light skin often meant higher social status, so calling someone güero could be a way to flatter them.

Mexico City Slang Coming from Indigenous Languages

Mexican Spanish owes an enormous debt to indigenous languages. While Mayan, Mixteco, Zapoteco, and many other languages have influenced Spanish around the country, due to Mexico City’s history as the Mexica (Aztec) capital of Tenochtitlán, here Nahuatl is strongly present. There are literally entire dictionaries dedicated to Mexican Spanish, but here’s a small sampling of my favorite phrases! They add so much depth, richness, and history to the language. (In Part 3 of the slang guide, I’ll have to add even more of my favorites!)

Tocayo/Tocaya

“So we’re *tocayas…*believe me, we’ve got a beautiful name.”
(Courtesy of memegenerator.es.)

Whether you’re named Diana, Carlos, or Jessica, chances are soon enough you’ll meet a tocaya or tocayo in Mexico. This word, originating from the Nahuatl word tocaitl, refers to someone with the same name as you. If I run into another Merin here (it’s never happened with the same spelling, but one can dream!), they’d say, “Eyyyy, ¡mi tocaya!” It’s a bit like saying “Hey, we’re twins!” if you have the same outfit or birthday as someone in the English-speaking world.

Cuate

Mexicans often describe their close friends as their cuates, a Nahuatl-derived word. The original word, “mecoatl,” meant twins, and had a second meaning: the near-identical baby agave plants that sprout out from the mother maguey. (That’s the beautiful, spiky succulent plant that produces tequila and mezcal.) Calling your friend a cuate is deeper than just an amigo — it’s a bit closer to something like “blood brother,” though used more casually. Like many words, it’s ultimately un-translatable, after all. Use it with your squad — those you truly consider close.

Tianguis

For centuries before the Spanish arrived in ancient Tenochtitlán, the site of modern Mexico City, many indigenous cultures in Central Mexico participated in temporary markets called tianguis. Merchants would cart their wares — often by canoe through the capital city’s complex, long-disappeared canal system — to the designated spot once a week or so. Setting up petates (woven palm carpets), they’d take out flowers and nopales, snakes and xoloitzcuintles (Prehispanic hairless dogs). Hey, there’s a few extra words for you!

These days, tianguis are still going strong all over the city and region! Many are general marketplaces, which will set up along a street or park to sell grocery items along with prepared food like tacos, birria, and pambazos. However, there are also pacas, which sell new and used clothing and accessories for cheap prices. There are also very unique tianguis dedicated to specific interests, such as the Tianguis del Chopo. Mexico City’s punks, goths, and rockers gather there (right next to the Vasconcelos Library) every Saturday to buy, sell, and trade everything from records to leather jackets.

Papalote

If you’re looking for a kite to fly elsewhere in Latin America, you’ll probably need to ask for a cometa (with regional variation, of course). In Mexico, however, keep your eyes out for a papalote! This lovely nahuatl word means butterfly, but has evolved to refer to their inanimate counterpart, which flutters brilliantly in the wind. Papalote also lends its name to the lovely children’s museum in Mexico City. A great place to visit if you’re traveling with kids!

Popote

“If you just stop using straws, it doesn’t help me — all disposable plastics do me harm. It had to be said, and I said it! (Courtesy of *Memes de Educación Ambiental.)*

A little context for this meme: plastic straws were banned in Mexico City a few years ago, to protect turtles and other marine animals who are harmed when they’re thoughtlessly discarded. While the ban was largely accepted, many criticized its narrow scope. They felt that other single-use plastics should’ve been eliminated as well. And on January 1, 2021, they were!

When I first went to restaurants in the city with my husband, who’s Peruvian, he was very confused when asking for a straw. When waiters would offer him a popote, he had no idea what they were saying! What he knows as a pajita in most of Latin America — a drinking straw — has a unique Nahuatl origin here in Mexico. The indigenous word popotl literally meant straw, as in the agricultural crop. As a result, it was a quite logical leap to popote, still used frequently all over the country.

Miscellaneous Mexico City Slang Words That Amuse Me

Chin

Pronounced as “cheen,” this word almost always comes with an exclamation point. It’s an expression of surprise that chilangos often exclaim when bad news comes along. “¡Chin! The caterers won’t arrive in time for the wedding.” Or, “¡Chin! The road is flooded ahead, we can’t get through.”

Carnal

Similar to a cuate, your carnal is a close and treasured friend. I included it here because unlike cuate’s indigenous origins, carnal comes from Iberian Spanish. Carne means meat or flesh, so logically, a carnal is like blood of your blood, flesh of your flesh.

Lana

“When you’re ugly but you’ve got money (wool).”
(Courtesy of dopl3r.com.)

Lana was one of the first Mexico City slang words (also used all over Mexico) I learned while still living in the U.S., and it remains a favorite. Many cultures have their own phrases for cash and money, often revealing the area’s realities and history. The United States has bucks, dough, and even, sometimes, bread. Parts of South America call it plata (silver), reflecting the colonial past of mining. In Mexico, many casually refer to money as lana — literally “wool.” I love the regional flavor of this word, recalling the country’s thriving rural past of ranchos and herders. Another common term for cash is varo.

Inventada

One of my favorite light insults in Mexico City, calling someone inventado or inventada is like rolling together pretentious, overconfident, fake, and a bit of egotism. The adjective often accompanies the phrase “se cree mucho:” they think too much of themselves. I often hear someone described as inventada if they’ve been bragging or are seen as overly narcissistic when it comes to clothes, their appearance, or something related.

To wrap up, I hope this rather unwieldy guide serves you well — or at the very least, gives you a chuckle or two. Let me know if you have recommendations for a Part 3!

¡Felices fiestas!: 6 Incredible Spots to Buy Artisanal Mexican Christmas Gifts

Whether I spend the winter holiday season with family back in the States, or enjoy my navidad mexicana, this remains my favorite time of year. Christmas is a big deal in Mexico, a predominantly Catholic country. Regardless of whether you celebrate the holiday’s religious aspects, Mexican Christmas festivities can be infectiously fun and diverse.

The presents under my tree this year — nearly all purchased at local markets, bazaars and village *tianguis.*

Over the years, I’ve discovered many of the jewels of Mexican artisanry — although there’s always more to explore. I love sharing these stunning traditions with family and friends during the holidays by bringing back unique gifts. In years past, these have included textiles and Christmas ornaments, basketry and brilliantly glazed ceramics. I seek out many of these treasures right here in Mexico City and its neighboring villages. Here, I’m sharing my favorite spots to find the perfect gift your loved one will never forget. For more holiday experiences in the area, check out my guide to Christmas in Mexico City as well!

1) La Ciudadela and City Markets

*La Ciudadela* is host to many high-quality pottery shops, often featuring the acclaimed *talavera* style from Puebla.

This must-visit market in central Mexico City bursts with artisanry from all over the country. While La Ciudadela has its share of souvenir junk (think: wool ponchos emblazoned with U.S. football team logos), it’s full of real gems as well. This is the place to go for classics like patterned talavera ceramics and tiles, lovely table runners and cloths (keep an eye out for ones with poinsettia patterns), and even tonalá pottery from Jalisco state (in Aisle 4). Bring plenty of cash to avoid credit card fees.

Markets provide a wide variety of gift options in one place. There, you can find everything from charming baubles to full furniture sets.

For even more holiday cheer, you can’t miss the iconic Mercado Jamaica in the historic center. Usually the city’s wholesale flower market, the Jamaica transforms into a Mexican Christmas wonderland this time of year. Its focus on more on decorations than presents — come here for your nochebuenas (poinsettia flowers), garlands, and of course, seven-pointed Christmas piñatas. It’s just as fun, however, to drink in the colorful atmosphere. Wander with a warm ponche drink and a cup of flavorful esquites (roast corn), some of the best in the city!

The Mercado de Coyoacán also has a decent selection of gifts and artisanry, though it’s quite touristy.

2) Bazaars

The Bazar Sábado, each Saturday in San Ángel, is one of the city’s most beloved street fairs. The plaza is lined with stands and tents, along with permanent shops like this one.

In recent years, Mexico City has teemed with popular bazaars selling handmade items. These range from highly traditional to artsy to hipster-dominated. While not every bazaar is created equal, I have found several favorites. This year, in fact, I bought most of my Mexican Christmas gifts at them!

Bazar Zona Zero, in the upscale Roma neighborhood, bills itself as a center for design, fashion, and art. The market’s location just off of the beautiful Plaza Río de Janeiro makes it a great part of your weekend stroll. The bazaar has an interesting mix of stylish clothing, unique pottery, accessories, and vintage, some for fairly accessible prices. You can take a look here. They usually accept credits cards or bank transfers, as well as cash.

Zona Zero is one of the most varied bazaars I’ve visited, in both goods and prices. Image courtesy of Zona Zero @mx.zonazero on Instagram.

The classic among all Mexico City bazaars is, of course, the Bazar Sábado in San Ángel, centered around cobblestoned Plaza San Jacinto. As the name would suggest, this market takes place every Saturday. This is where well-heeled Chilangos and visitors alike come to drink in the area’s charm, grab brunch, and pick up high quality artisan goods. This is a pricier spot, but it has fantastic ambience and some decent deals. Bring cash and good walking shoes.

Finally, Libre Liebre is a fun, slightly quirkier bazaar that pops around to different locations. It’s an excellent spot for jewelry, candles, and other more off-the-beat gifts. Just check their Instagram to see the newest venue and dates.

3) Museum Gift Shops

Mexican Christmas invariably fills the city with festive piñatas. None are more impressive than those displayed at the *Museo de Arte Popular.*

While I’m often a little disappointed by Mexico City museum gift shops (Modern Art Museum, I’m looking at you, sigh), there are two jewels among the more “average” ones. My beloved Museo de Arte Popular (Folk/Popular Art Museum) is already one of the best places to visit in the city. But on top of its spectacular folk art exhibitions, the “MAP” boasts a top-notch store. It brings together excellent quality artisanry from all over Mexico — during the holidays, this includes many Christmas-y items. While the store is pricier than some, it directly benefits artisans and features unique pieces.

Every year I find beautiful new Christmas ornaments at the *Museo de Arte Popular.* This year, a delicate corn-husk angel joined my collection.

Perched at the edge of Chapultepec Forest, the famed Anthropology Museum also has a nice shop. This features a great variety of books on Mexican history and arts, along with some lovely artisanry, food items, clothing, and jewelry. The selection is a little more basic than the MAP, but makes for a strong starting point.

If you’re into art books and very contemporary gifts, the Tamayo Museum and Museo de El Chopo have interesting collections as well. The smaller store at the Museo Franz Mayer has some interesting stuff, including fun earrings, scarves, etc.

4) FONART Stores & Fairs

FONART’s recent Christmas fair brought artisans and buyers together directly, benefitting both. Image courtesy of FONART @fonart_mx on Instagram.

FONART serves as the Mexican government’s official fund to support artisans and their traditions. The organizations has played a big role in helping preserve artistic craft all over the country, and I really admire its work. An important aspect of FONART’s mission is connecting artisans directly with potential buyers. Here in Mexico City, they achieve this in two ways: through their permanent shops, as well as seasonal fairs.

There are three FONART stores in the city, which you can find here. They all have superb selections of artisanry, giving you the opportunity to put money in the pockets of talented creators, many of indigenous heritage. Recently, FONART has also opened a small, but very cool shop in the lobby of the Secretaría de Economía building. I certainly recommend checking it out — right now, it’s Mexican Christmas galore! Find it at Pachuca 189 in the Condesa neighborhood.

If you have any religious relatives, Mexican Christmas nativity scenes make great gifts. Image courtesy of FONART @fonart_mx on Instagram.

Then, there are the fabulous artisan fairs they’ve been organizing ever more frequently. I’ve become a regular at these themed events, when FONART actually brings artisans to sell their wares in-person in Mexico City. Recently, they’ve offered holiday-specific fairs, but any will have great-quality goods. It’s a singular experience to buy artisanry in the capital directly from the artisans themselves — many hailing from Michoacán, Oaxaca, Hidalgo, Guerrero, and more. I highly recommend following FONART on Instagram or Facebook. There, the organization announces when and where its next fairs will take place. Both the stores and fairs offer goods with a wide variety of values, which makes it easy to find gifts of all shapes, sizes, and price-points. The pandemic has been especially hard on artisans here, and this is a fantastic option to support them.

5) Markets in Nearby Pueblos Mágicos

Pop into local markets in magic towns like Tequisquiapan, famed for its basketry, to find especially singular presents.

If you’re traveling in November or December, consider visiting one of Mexico’s lovely pueblos mágicos (magic towns). While you enjoy their beauty, charm, and local culture, be sure to check out the local market. These will be especially well-stocked on the weekends, when many villages set up downtown tianguis (temporary markets) filled with artisan goods. The “Christmas ornament” towns of Chignahuapan, Puebla, and Tlalpujahua, Michoacán, produce many unique, hand-painted decorations and even export them abroad. Pueblos mágicos like Tepoztlán, Tequisquiapan, and Metepec all feature their own singular artisan traditions. Visit any of the small towns I highlighted in my guide here, and you’ll be sure to give loved ones one-of-a-kind Mexican Christmas gifts with a real story behind them.

The nearby city of Puebla is brimming with *talavera* artisanry, antiques, homemade sweets, and many other charming choices.

Don’t overlook neighboring cities like Puebla, Guanajuato, or Querétaro either — while these are larger and more bustling, they all boast their own marvelous artisan shops and traditions. For a unique eat, grab some fresh mole in San Pedro Atocpan, a village right within Mexico City limits.

6) Don’t-Miss Spots for Edible Delights

We’ve all found ourselves in a foreign airport, desperately searching the Duty Free for acceptable gifts. Here in Mexico City, my first few visits home saw me scrambling through mediocre mezcals, spicy gummy candies, and truly terrible chocolate. Learn from my mistakes, though, and you’ll be rewarded with delicious presents your family will be begging for next year, too.

Rosetta’s jams are to-die for, and *very* highly sought after in my family. Image courtesy of *Panadería Rosetta* @panaderiarosetta on Instagram.

Mexico City is blessed with many fantastic bakeries, chocolate shops, and of course, mezcalerías, but I do have a few personal favorites. For chocolates, “Qué Bo!” in the historic center, as well as Polanco and Coyoacán, makes unbelievable truffles. They often feature unique Mexican flavors like tequila and sal de gusano. During the holidays, their chocolate-studded panettone is ridiculously good. La Botica is a nice, if hipster-y, place to get great mezcal. Grab a seat and sample a few before making your decision — their cocktails are lovely as well. Rosetta Bakery’s biscotti and jars of homemade jam are my family’s gifts of choice. Their mouthwatering guava preserves go just as wonderfully on ice cream as on buttered toast.

“Qué Bo!” chocolate shop is just a few steps from the lovely Azul Histórico restaurant, both in the Downtown shops complex near the Zócalo. Both are personal favorites for me.

FYI: How to Send a Gift Package To Family Back Home

If you, like me, are spending the holidays in Mexico this year, it’s not impossible to send presents abroad to family. I’m referring to North America here — packages to Europe, South America, or elsewhere may be much pricier. For the U.S. and Canada, I highly recommend DHL’s efficient service. Their packages arrive in just a few days, and they’re much less expensive than UPS and FedEx. That doesn’t mean cheap though. My four kilo (around 8-9 pound) box cost around $90 USD, or $1800 pesos, to send. Another possibility is the “Mexico Mule” Facebook forum. There, you can post that you want to send something to a certain area, and share if you’re offering any payment. Expats returning home can offer to take the item with them, and some may even be willing to drop it off at the post office once there.

Small details, like this simple piñata swinging in an apartment passageway, make the Mexican Christmas season special in the city.

While these steep prices and logistical issues might entice you into braving the Mexican postal system, just don’t do it. Also warn relatives abroad — if they send you something using their national mail service, it will enter the Mexican system once it crosses the border. Many of these packages and cards can be lost completely, or they may take many months to arrive. Tracking will become impossible once it enters Mexico.

I often purchase unique presents and decorations from their makers on humble street corners. I discovered this amazing Mexican Christmas tree, made out of dried palm by a talented older woman, on the sidewalk outside the Oasis Coyoacán shopping center.

If you’re planning to pack gifts in a checked bag, just be sure to wrap them in many, many layers. (I’ve successfully brought quite a few ceramics back to the States as gifts, to my mother’s astonishment.) Ask the shop owner or seller to wrap breakables tightly with bubble wrap or newspaper and tape shut. Fill them with your socks, and pack in the middle of clothing in your suitcase.

Have a wonderful holiday season!

All in all, I hope this humble guide given you ideas on how to find one-of-a-kind Mexican Christmas or Hanukkah presents that also support Mexican artisans and makers! While I created this with the winter season in mind, this would work just as well for celebrations year-round. Happy Holidays to you all!

Mexico City Escapes: 13 Spellbinding Small Towns

Mexico City is rife with charming old neighborhoods and bustling markets — that’s what I love most about living here, after all. Whether I’m in the mood for untouched nature or cobblestone alleyways, there’s something right here in the city. That said, another favorite aspect of the metropolis is just how easily I can leave it, heading out into the unknown whenever it strikes my fancy. Everyone needs a breather from the liveliness (and yes, sometimes chaos) of the big city every now and then, even this Mexico City-obsessed gringa! For me, this often means visiting a pueblo mágico.

Mexico’s beloved *pueblos mágicos* (magic towns) provide a much-needed respite from city life.

Especially as a car-less gringa, I’m spoiled by Mexico’s fantastic long-distance bus system. While in my native U.S., Greyhounds and the like don’t have a stellar reputation, here I can pop into the city’s enormous terminals and hitch a ride nearly anywhere in the country. If you stick with reputable companies like ADO, Futura, and ETN, you’ll typically be riding with style, cleanliness, and comfort. This top-notch system makes it easy to enjoy one of my favorite hobbies: puebleando. This very Mexican verb is a catch-all term for those of us who love exploring Mexico’s hundreds of enchanting pueblos mágicos — “magic” towns the government celebrates for their preserved heritage and beauty.

These diverse *pueblos mágicos* offer something for everyone — from honeymooners to hardcore mountaineers.

Some Mexican pueblos mágicos are far-flung and isolated, but you can reach plenty of them within a few hours of downtown. Whether you’re in the mood for a romantic getaway or active day trip, here’s a guide to my favorite towns and villages surrounding Mexico City! Note that the 1-13 ranking has nothing to do with my preference of one over another — they’re organized by state.

Marvelous Pueblos Mágicos of Mexico State

1) Valle de Bravo

Valle de Bravo’s glimmering reservoir is an important source of water for Mexico City and beyond.

Mexico City’s rich and/or famous flock to this mountainous magic town for the lake views and luxurious living. That doesn’t mean, however, that Valle de Bravo can’t be an accessible, affordable destination for the rest of us. This famed pueblo mágico lies just under two hours from the capital, making it a favorite weekend retreat for many chilangos. Visit during the week, though, and the Sunday crowds give way to a peaceful small town atmosphere.

Valle de Bravo is a steep village spread around a large, attractive reservoir, making for postcard views as you walk down towards the water. The white-washed facades and cobblestone streets are idyllic. Behind the traditional image of the town lies a lot of money these days, meaning a humble basket shop might sit between a fancy boutique and an elegant hotel. But there’s still lots of small town charm in Valle de Bravo — especially once you venture off the beaten track.

Beneath the surface of Valle de Bravo’s glitzy, tourist-oriented vibe lies a traditional small town. Go during the week for a peaceful atmosphere and lovely local markets.

Valle de Bravo Must-Dos:

Take a boat ride (I recommend one of the larger cruisers for the seasick) across the valley reservoir. This is especially stunning at sunset.
Trek up to the main plaza and eat lake trout at one of the lovely, simple restaurants with balconies overlooking the parish church and flowering trees.
Stay the night in one of Valle’s many unique AirBnB rooms or cabins, where you get the chance to watch sunrise and sunset. I enjoyed this one for a birthday a few years ago!
If you’re there between November and March, book a tour to the nearby Monarch Butterfly reserve.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can reach Valle de Bravo in a direct bus from the Poniente (Observatorio) bus station. Look for “Zinabus” once inside the station, they run every hour and a half. You can also buy your tickets beforehand here — just anticipate bad traffic around the terminal, which is my least-favorite bus station in the city. The ride is fine, if a little basic and not very well-ventilated. Urbvan is also running trips there now, in smaller buses.

Driving, it’s a straight shot past Toluca in Western Estado de México. Once again, just keep in mind weekend traffic can be bad.

2) Tepotzotlán

About an hour north of central Mexico City, Tepotzotlán is often overlooked by visitors. Luckily for me, my several wonderful mexiquense friends (folks from Mexico State) have showed me what I was missing! This bustling town has colorful weekend markets, celebrated museums, lively cantinas, and more on offer. Best of all, make this visit into a road trip by visiting the magnificent Arcos del Sitio outside of town.

The far-flung *Arcos del Sitio* are a striking reminder of the colonial past.

Tepotzotlán Must-Dos:

Visit the beautiful Museo Nacional del Virreinato, housed in an intricately carved former Jesuit school. This museum explores the history of the Mexican Viceroyalty, New Spain, during the colonial period.
There’s plenty of good eating in Tepotzotlán, including many garden patio restaurants popular with locals and chilangos alike. Check out Los Virreyes for a nice roof terrace, or explore the downtown’s central market and bountiful snacks.
While they are a little out of the way, you really can’t miss Los Arcos del Sitio. This towering, ancient aqueduct stretches across a rugged, dramatic valley. You can walk across them and even explore the lovely valley below, learning about Mexico State’s long-lost history in the process. You probably need a car — or to pay a taxi driver to wait for you — in order to reach the isolated arcos.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can take the efficient Tren Suburbano (Suburban Train) from Mexico City’s Buenavista Station to the Cuatitlán or Lechería stops, then take an Uber/Didi (or combi labeled “Tepotzotlán Centro,” for the adventurous) to town. Just be cautious during this journey, and don’t take it at night. The train can get very crowded at peak hours. To cut out the fuss, if you’re willing to pay more you can take an Uber/Didi all the way there.

Drivers will pass Ciudad Satélite entering Mexico State, and head up straight into Tepotzotlán. There’s plenty of parking lots in the center. Bring some cash with you.

3) Metepec

Climb to the top of Metepec’s eponymous hill for panoramic views of the surrounding valley.

My first November in Mexico, I was planning to visit a tourist-trap area for Day of the Dead (although I didn’t know it then). When I told my lovely friend Rubí this, she scoffed. “You need to come to my hometown for Día de los Muertos! It’s a pueblo mágico, you’ll love it.” As luck would have it, Rubí was a native of Metepec, a magic town famed for its Day of the Dead celebrations and artisanry. Even better, it’s only an hour and change from Mexico City.

Metepec has been around since Prehispanic times: its name means “the hill of the magueyes (agaves)” in Nahuatl. Neighboring the Valley of Toluca, the region has a rich history that you can still find in varied downtown architecture. I highly recommend visiting in October or early November, so you can enjoy its many Day of the Dead festivities. Townsfolk elaborately decorate the main church and its tall steps (located on the hill, or “tepec,” for which the town was named), hold a sweets fair, and showcase their rich artisanal heritage all over town. If you do visit the Mepetec Cemetery on November 1 or 2, please be very respectful and ask before taking any photos or videos.

Metepec’s stunning Trees of Life are collector’s art pieces that you can cherish for a lifetime. During Day of the Dead, they often exhibit trees of life, death, and catrinas (like this one) downtown.

Metepec Must-Dos:

Visit during the lead-up to Día de los Muertos.
Climb the steps and enjoy the view from the main church.
Visit the mercado de dulces (during Day of the Dead).
Admire spectacular clay Árboles de la Vida, trees of life, in Metepec’s artisan workshops — these detailed, painstaking works of art are renowned throughout Mexico.
Try a garañona, a classic local drink with a unique herbal blend, at the historic Bar 2 de abril. This characterful bar dates back to 1932.
If you’re so inclined, make a weekend of it and continue on to the Nevado de Toluca for a spectacular day hike!

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Head down to Patio Santa Fe, in Southwestern Mexico City, and right near the Toks restaurant, you can buy tickets at a stand for the “Caminante” buses. Or go straight to the Poniente (Observatorio) Bus Station and take the same bus line, in either regular or slightly fancier “Plus.” Either way, these buses go all the way to Toluca, the capital of Mexico State. Ask the bus driver to tell you when you’re near Metepec Centro, and you can take an Uber or taxi into downtown.

Driving, head south towards Santa Fe as well, exiting Mexico City towards Toluca and following signs to Metepec Centro. Whether taking the bus or driving, I don’t recommend returning late at night.

Unforgettable Pueblos Mágicos of Morelos

4) Tepoztlán

Tepoztlán is famous for its mystical, rugged mountains and foggy vistas.

Mexican artists and bohemian expats alike have flocked to Tepoztlán since the early 20th Century. They believe this breathtaking pueblo mágico, an hour south of Mexico City in Morelos State, is not only lovely, but a deeply spiritual place. Tepoztlán’s earliest indigenous residents would have agreed. Around 1200 AD, they began building the mystical Tepozteco on a jagged mountaintop. This small temple is dedicated to Tepoztécatl, God of Pulque (delicious sacred “beer” of the agave plant), Fermentation, and Fertility.

The temple remains to this day, and Tepoztlán has become a place of spiritual and artistic pilgrimage. Luminaries like Chavela Vargas called this pueblito home. Whether you’re seeking inner peace or simply a nice weekend trip, the town’s misty mornings, traditional architecture and rough-hewn mountains will enchant you. It’s even been voted one of the most romantic places on Earth.

Tepoztlán Must-Dos:

Eat traditional Mexican food with a twist at El Ciruelo, a fantastic restaurant (you can reserve on Open Table) with lush mountain views.
Watch the sunset at La Posada del Tepozteco, an iconic hotel perched high above the valley. The panoramic vista here is stunning, but the food at the hotel restaurant is just okay — have a drink here (make reservations beforehand) instead. Or for a special treat, indulge in a night’s stay, especially if you’re looking for a romantic getaway from the city.
A total no-brainer — hike up to the Tepozteco for great views! Just don’t feed local wildlife, or even take out food, as they can be aggressive.
Wander the cobblestone streets and check out local artisanary at many puestos (stands)
Try the town’s famous ice cream, in many creative flavors, at the Tepoznieve shops.
Visit the downtown monastery and church, part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site (unfortunately, due to Covid they currently seem to be closed).
If you don’t mind a crowd, Tepoztlán holds a famed traditional carnaval every February, with striking local traditions stemming from the Moorish/Spanish influence.

Wandering through Tlayacapan’s country roads, it feels as though you’ve been lost in time.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can take a Pullman or OCC (Cristóbal Colón) to Tepoztlán from the Taxqueña Terminal in Southern Mexico City. Like the buses to Valle de Bravo, these are okay, but not particularly wonderful. They drop you off at a gas station just outside town — take a quick taxi or trek down the winding road into downtown.

Driving is quite easy, following the 95 and 95D highways south for about an hour and a half trip. Bring change and small bills for a couple tolls along the way. I do not recommend visiting Tepoztlán on the weekends — traffic is bad and the town gets crowded, and much less pleasant to stroll around or hike the Tepozteco, especially in the Morelos heat.

5) Tlayacapan

Tlayacapan’s fertile fields are rich with agricultural products, from corn to nopal to fruits. Stop at a roadside stand to sample some delicious produce around town!

Not too far from Tepoztlán lies a more tranquil pueblo mágico: Tlayacapan. This tiny town is nestled among rolling hills, rock formations and fields of nopal cacti. Tlayacapan has been inhabited for centuries, boasting an interesting mix of cultural influences. Here, the native Olmec culture was later invaded by the Xochimilcas from Southwestern Morelos. Since this time, the village has played an outsize role in everything from the Spanish Invasion to classic Hollywood films. With quiet, shady streets lined with stucco homes and bougainvillea, the town is a relaxing retreat just south of Mexico City.

Tlayacapan Must-Dos:

Wander the outskirts to explore gorgeous views from the farm fields and discover hidden chapels
Stroll the center and buy Tlayacapan’s famous pottery, including pretty plant pots (macetas).
Visit the village’s UNESCO-recognized site, the historic 16th Century Ex Convento Agustino de San Juan Bautista.
Like Tepoztlán, Tlayacapan is well-known for its carnaval celebrations — and here, you may find a slightly less crazy, crowded atmosphere. (Carnavales are always busy, though.) The festival occurs three days before Ash Wednesday.
Snack on tamales de ceniza (a tamal with a dark color because of beans) and cecina, a flattened and spiced beef popular throughout Morelos.
Hike around the Corredor Biológico Chichinautzin in the nearby hills.

Wander the outskirts of Tlayacapan to find hidden gems like this tiny chapel, lost in time.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can hop on a bus towards Oaxtepec, Morelos from the Taxqueña Bus Station in Mexico City. From there, you’ll find combis or taxis to Tlayacapan. For a simpler trip, of course you can drive directly to Tlayacapan, passing through Tepoztlán on the way down. Combine both for a fun pueblo mágico weekend! When driving back to the city, you can choose to return via Xochimilco, the canal region that’s existed since pre-Aztec times. Stop along the way for a ride in a trajinera and enjoy the unique, UNESCO-lauded scenery as well.

The Silvery Jewel of Guerrero State

6) Taxco

You can’t miss the amazing view of Taxco’s undulating mountains from the Christ statue looming above town.

When the Mexican government first created the “pueblos mágicos” designation in the early 2000s, Taxco was one of the first towns to receive the honor. When you arrive here, following twisting roads up and up into the green mountains of Guerrero, it’s easy to see why. Taxco rises on the mountainside, revealing itself all at once as you crest the final hill. On a sunny day, its white buildings glimmer against the hills.

Once you’re in town, Taxco is just as charming. Be prepared for a workout, as the narrow colonial streets rival San Francisco for steepness. The main plaza is home to a beautifully carved church, and the real joy of Taxco is simply ambling around, discovering its shops, restaurants and hidden corners.

Whether cloudy or clear-skied, sunrise or sunset, Taxco stuns.

Taxco Must-Dos:

Climb (or take a taxi) up to the Cristo statue, a towering Christ above the city. From here, you’ll have jaw-dropping views of Taxco and the undulating mountains. If you do decide to walk from the city center, keep in mind it’s quite a hike and goes through some less touristy areas, as well as being a pretty confusing route up a dirt path at the end. I don’t recommend bringing valuables with you on the climb.
Poke around the town’s many silver workshops, which make everything from jewelry to home decor. While they’ve been mining silver in Taxco’s mountains for centuries, the modern artisanry tradition dates back to a collaboration between taxqueños and U.S. artist William Spratling in the 1920s.
Visit the nearby Grutas de Cacahuamilpa, a unique national park containing a cave system that runs through northern Guerrero state. You’ll find tours here throughout the historical center of Taxco.
Sample Guerrero’s fantastic food at Rosa Mexicano Restaurant, where you’ll take in unbelievable town views on the terrace. Don’t leave Taxco without trying the region’s famous pozole verde stew as well!

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can take a comfy first class bus from Taxqueña Terminal on either Costaline or ADO, for a 2.5 hour trip.

If you’re driving, this is a fun stop-off point on the way to Acapulco — another of my favorite weekend spots in Mexico. Take the toll roads for higher quality, well-maintained highways, and only drive during the day. Bring several hundred pesos in cash, as tolls can get pricey in Morelos and Guerrero.

Puebla’s Accessible Stunners

7) Cholula

Cholula’s lovely yellow church, perched upon a large hill (holding many secrets within) has become an iconic image of Puebla State.

Puebla, two hours east of Mexico City, is brimming with small mountain towns and diverse landscapes. If you visit the state capital, Puebla City, you have no excuse to miss Cholula, a pueblo mágico that’s become a suburb of the city! It’s likely you’ve already seen images of Cholula. Its famous yellow church on a hill, Popocatepetl volcano looming in the background, has become an iconic view of Mexico worldwide. But Cholula holds much, much more beneath the surface…quite literally. The town is well-known as the home to many churches — Hernan Cortés wanted to build 365 — but beneath this European religious influence, a deep indigenous undercurrent still flows.

Cholula Must-Dos:

Explore the world’s largest pyramid. Yep, you heard me right: below that photo-friendly yellow church, Cholula’s famous “hill” is actually a huge pyramid that long predates the Aztecs. It’s covered in vegetation now, but follow signs to the “Zona Arqueológica” to enter its narrow corridors and walk through the center of the hill. On the other side, you’ll discover an excavated portion of the pyramid. It’s the closest I’ve gotten to feeling like Indiana Jones.
Admire views of Puebla’s iconic volcanoes, Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. Once you’ve seen the archaeological site, climb the steps to the Spanish church at the top, and enjoy some of the region’s best panoramas.
Grab a bite to eat at the center’s many rooftop restaurants. Look for “terraza” signs and choose ones with a great view of town — especially fun at sunset.
Have a drink in Container City. Cholula’s a university city with great nightlife, and this spot’s the center of it all. Take your pick of bars and clubs, built from old metal storage containers in this creative place that pulsates with life on the weekends.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

There are constant buses of all price levels between Mexico City and Puebla, running day and night. You can take them from the airport bus station, TAPO, Taxqueña, and more. I recommend ADO for a safe and comfortable ride to Puebla City’s Central Terminal. From there, you can take buses, Uber, or — more fun! — the light rail to downtown Cholula.

8) Atlixco

Atlixco’s windy streets lined with colorful buildings lead you up and up, towards breathtaking churches and monasteries.

Just a half hour from Puebla, Atlixco sits perched on a mountain with views of the neighboring volcanoes on a clear day. This village is beloved among poblanos (Puebla natives) for its balmy climate and brilliant, multicolored buildings. As you trek through the steep stone streets, don’t forget to look back down. Often, the best vistas are found when you least expect them — pay attention to the many lovely details in Atlixco. While I’ve include some “must-dos” and wrote an entire guide to Atlixco a few years ago, don’t hew to a strict plan here. Indulge in your wanderlust and enjoy Atlixco’s many pleasures, include vibrant churches built by the region’s indigenous people, who added their own artistic flourishes to Catholic buildings during the colonial period.

The higher you climb Atlixco’s picturesque streets, the lovelier the town’s views become.

Atlixco Must-Dos:

Take a snapshot at La Escalera Ancha, the famous mural-staircase. Go just up from the center to climb these colorful steps which depict a traditional Atlixco couple. Talented local muralist Juan Manuel Martínez Caltenco painted the steps in the early months of the pandemic.
Eat pozole, mole, and whatever else your heart desires at the Atlixco market. Just ask around for the mercado, right downtown, and enjoy the best food for an unbeatable price.
Check out the local viveros (plant nurseries). Atlixco is famous for its agreeable climate, which makes it perfect for cultivating plants year-round. Before Christmas, you’ll find many dedicated to nochebuenas — poinsettias. This time of year, the nurseries glow with thousands of red and white flowers.
Visit during the popular Christmas lights festival from mid-December until January 6. Be prepared for big crowds, though. (I find it’s best to go towards the end, in early January.)
Try traditional poblano sweets from the many carts on the main plaza. My favorites are tortitas de Santa Clara (delicious cookies made with pumpkin seed cream by nuns) and camotes (candied sweet potato taffy).

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Combine Atlixco with a visit to Puebla and Cholula if you like. Take a bus to Puebla (as described in the previous pueblo mágico’s section), then get a direct bus on Autobuses Oro to Atlixco for $35 pesos. These run every 40 minutes and will take you to right near the village center.

Quaint Querétaro State

9) Tequisquiapan

Tequisquiapan’s stunningly pink central parish is just as pretty on the inside.

I knew “Tequis,” as many call it, would be pretty — but I underestimated just how lovely it is! This classic Querétaro town features street after street of charming restaurants and cafes, interspersed with dozens of high quality artisan shops selling the best of the region’s talented craftspeople. Just outside town lie many wineries, popular with locals and visitors alike for their tours and tastings. Tequisquiapan is less than a three hour ride from Mexico City, but instantly transports you to small town life. It may well be one of my favorite pueblos mágicos so far!

Tequisquiapan is one of the best-preserved, loveliest *pueblos* I’ve had the privilege of visiting so far.

Tequisquiapan Must-Dos:

Wander the picture-perfect town center, paying special attention to the highly detailed Parroquia Santa María de la Asunción, a gorgeous 19th Century pink church in the main square.
Shop for top-notch Tequis artisanry, including cane & wicker baskets and wool products, at the Mercado de Artesanías, downtown Centro de Artesanías, weekend Parador Artesanal by the bus station, and whichever little shop catches your eye.
Taste Querétaro sweets, cheeses and meats at the many tienditas around town. My favorite was a tres leches cheese made from cow, goat, and sheep’s milk.
Learn about the region’s viniculture at beautiful local wineries — I recommend the excellent tour at Viñedos La Redonda, which also offers picnics and wine tastings outdoors.
Try typical queretana food and seasonal specialties at K’puchinos Restaurant alongside the parish church. (FYI, their guacamole is also great.)

Head out of Tequis and into the region’s many inviting vineyards for wine-tastings, picnics, and more.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Luckily for all of us, it’s surprisingly easy to reach Tequis from the capital. Pop over to the bustling CDMX Terminal del Norte to get a luxury ETN bus straight to this magic town. Flecha Roja also offers buses from here, but they’re only slightly cheaper, and ETN has incredibly comfy seats, a quiet atmosphere, decent wifi, and even seatback screens with popular movies (dubbed in Spanish) that make the trip pass infinitely faster. Once at the Tequis station, grab a taxi into downtown for about $40 pesos.

Driving, take the 57D Highway into Querétaro, then follow the 120 the rest of the way. Avoid rush hours — especially on the way back into town — and stop for barbacoa (delectable roast mutton) and its consommé along the way in Mexico State. I loved visiting Tequisquiapan during the week, rather than the weekend, for a chiller vibe.

10) Peña de Bernal

The iconic *peña,* the world’s third largest monolith, rises high over Bernal.

This teeny-tiny village of cobblestone streets makes a wonderful day trip if you’re visiting Tequisquiapan or the gorgeous state capital, Querétaro. (I need to do a guide on Querétaro City itself!) Peña de Bernal is named for its striking monolith, the “peña.” The enormous rock is one of the world’s largest, second only to the Rock of Gibraltar and Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro. You can see it from every street in downtown, making for postcard views around every corner in this photogenic pueblo mágico.

Peña de Bernal Must-Dos:

Climb the peña itself for panoramic views (and a good workout).
Sample Bernal’s many delicious cheese and sweet shops with regional specialties.
Grab a table at Tierracielo restaurant for Querétaro-style enchiladas, great views, and live Spanish guitar music.
Munch on the town’s famous snacks: blue corn gorditas and pan de queso, a sweet cheese bread sold on every street.
Check out the Museo de la Máscara (Mask Museum) for hundreds of fascinating — sometimes even disturbing! — masks, many made by locals in Bernal.
Discover Bernal’s most famous artisan products: exquisite wool tapestries, rugs, blankets, and clothing.

Peña de Bernal is famous for its woolen artisanry, including intricate tapestries.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Driving, getting to Bernal is quite easy. Just follow Waze directions and avoid leaving the city at busy times, like Friday afternoon. Busing… is a bit more complicated. You can take buses from the Mexico City Terminal del Norte to nearby town Ezequiel Montes on the Coordinados or Flecha Roja line. From here, it’s easy to get a taxi (or rickety bus) to Bernal. However, it’s harder to get a taxi back, and you may find more success taking a bus. They’re shaky, but reliable for just 17 pesos, and leave from Calle Independencia. (Use this spot as a reference for the bus’s departure.)

I recommend that as Bernal’s so small, you combine this trip with a visit to Tequisquiapan or Querétaro. You can get buses to either Ezequiel Montes or Tequis, then follow the above instructions to get to Bernal. You’ll also find Tequisquiapan tour providers who offer visits to Peña de Bernal along with several local vineyards.

The *peña* has many moods: shifting from dark and foreboding, to cheery and inviting depending on the climate.

Mountainous Gems of Hidalgo

11) Real del Monte

Real del Monte is known for its refreshing, thin mountain air and European heritage.

Hidalgo, a mountainous state north of Mexico City, is one of the most underrated regions in the country. While tourists flock to the coasts and well-known spots like Guadalajara, Hidalgo’s stunning pueblos mágicos and natural wonders fly under the radar. Rising and falling along a peak, Real del Monte is one of the state’s most accessible magic towns. This village of fresh, thin air and blue skies is just a short drive from the state capital, Pachuca, but feels as if little has changed in a century.

Real del Monte Must-Dos:

Taste Hidalgo’s famous pastes, savory and sweet empanadas served warm from the oven. These aren’t just yummy. Pastes reflect Real del Monte’s heritage, dating back over a century to the arrival of British miners! A “Spanishization” of the British pasties, miners from regions like Cornwall developed this hand pie to eat deep in the mines. It’s the perfect food for miners with dirty hands and no silverware. As a result, it adapted perfectly to Hidalgo’s 19th Century mines. Over time, Mexicans added their own unique flavors to make a tasty hybrid.
Trek up Real del Monte’s steep streets, enjoying views of the picturesque valley below.
If you’re not afraid of small spaces, check out the historic Mina de Acosta, where you can descend 400 meters (feet) into a 17th Century mine.
Delve into Real del Monte’s British past at the misty, mysterious Panteón Inglés. This cemetery holds the souls of many Brit miners who once toiled in Hidalgo mines in search of a better life — and the promising glint of gold and silver.

Signs, from cobblers to doctor’s offices, are painted in a traditional style throughout Real del Monte.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Both driving and busing are fairly easy, straightforward options due to Real del Monte’s proximity to Pachuca, the state capital. You can take one of the plentiful buses to Pachuca from Mexico City’s Terminal del Norte. These are available from Futura Select (luxurious), ADO (comfy), or Ovnibus (normal, budget ride). From the station, take a taxi/Uber the rest of the way, about a half hour into town. On the way back, fortunately there’s quite a few taxis in Real del Monte to take you back to the Pachuca bus terminal.

Driving, take the 85D north, passing through Pachuca and then steadily climbing to the pueblo mágico. Real del Monte is also known as Mineral del Monte, so don’t get confused if you see this on maps. Bring cash for tolls, and extra cash for purchases in town.

12) Mineral del Chico

Viewed from a peak in El Chico National park, these striking rock formations are known as “the nuns.”

Since the colonial era, Hidalgo state has served as a center for Mexican mining. Rich in precious metals like gold and silver, the Spanish first seized on the area’s wealth, followed by miners from Britain, Canada, and elsewhere. While mining is no longer the cash cow it once was, the industry has a long and lasting heritage around the state. This is perhaps most present in Mineral del Chico, a town founded amidst the mining boom in 1565. Today, the rush is long over, but the legacy of beautiful historic buildings and rugged mountains remains. “El Chico,” as many call it, is nestled in a Mexican National Park. This makes for fantastic hiking and adventure sports throughout the area.

Mineral del Chico Must-Dos:

Sip a warm hidalguense coffee while cozying up in a café, watching the fog slowly lift during Mineral del Chico’s misty mornings.
Stay the night in one of the area’s rustic cabins in the mountains, like these.
Hike into “El Chico” National Park, following trails up to panoramic peaks. If you’re (much) more adventurous than me, hop onto one of the challenging rappel/rock climbing courses to reach the summit. This provider is well-regarded, but still gave me the chills!
Walk through the village’s winding, stone-paved streets, enjoying the clean air and smell of native pine, oak, and oyamel fir.

After a long day of hiking, savor a rich local coffee or hot chocolate in Mineral del Chico’s charming town center.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

A car is very helpful if you plan on visiting Mineral del Chico — especially if you’re interested in hiking in the surrounding natural areas. The drive is only two hours from Mexico City, and renting a car will be the most direct way to arrive — just make sure you or your driver is comfortable with windy mountain roads. Bring cash for the tolls along the way: you’ll be taking the 85D highway almost the entire route. Bring dramamine (ask for dramamina in the pharmacy) with you, as the roads are exceptionally twisty.

If driving isn’t an option, you can take a bus from the Terminal del Norte to Pachuca, then take a taxi the next 30-40 minutes to Mineral del Chico. Keep in mind, however, that getting a taxi back might be much harder. Get your taxista‘s business card, and see if you can arrange for them to pick you up on your return date/time.

13) Huasca de Ocampo

At the colonial *Hacienda San Miguel Regla,* lakes and weeping willows lie around every corner.

Just a little farther into Hidalgo, you’ll stumble upon a region traversed by ghosts, peculiar landscapes and rich history. Huasca de Ocampo is home to some of Mexico’s most unique attractions, including the famous Prismas Basálticos. The colorful small town is well-worth an overnight stay, giving you time to enjoy Huasca itself and explore the area’s gorgeous haciendas and nature. It’s no wonder that the government selected Huasca de Ocampo as the very first pueblo mágico back in 2001, when they first introduced the program!

Huasca de Ocampo Must-Dos:

Take a volcanic walk through the one-of-a-kind Prismas Basálticos (Basaltic Prisms). As you stare down into this canyon, thousands of towering volcanic rock columns rise up towards you. You can descend into the canyon and walk amongst the columns, enjoying the strange sight as several waterfalls cascade over the dark basalt. Don’t miss it!

The *Prismas Basálticos* form a unique natural phenomenon in the Huasca region.

Trek through dramatic valleys and drink in the views from jaw-dropping cliffs. Within the regional biosphere reserve, visit two spectacular ravines: the Barrancas of Metztitlán and Aguacatitla. Nearby, visit the equally impressive Peña del Aire rock formation.
Channel Zorro at the cinematic Hacienda Santa María Regla, where they filmed the iconic Antonio Banderas movie. Take a tour of this atmospheric, slightly creepy old hacienda to see the dungeons and more.
Live out your childhood treehouse fantasies in a Pinochueco cabin. Suspended in the forest canopy outside town, these well-equipped cabins give you a peaceful, green escape from the city.
Seek out colonial phantoms and memories while wandering the Hacienda San Miguel Regla. This sprawling colonial property has been well restored. Today, it features a pleasant hotel and gorgeous grounds, including several small lakes and ruins. Step back in time as you wander its willow-lined waterways and peer at 17th Century stoneworks.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

If you’re driving, be sure to enjoy a delicious barbacoa on the way once in Hidalgo! Take the México-Pachuca highway (the same as the 85D) north to Pachuca, then follow the Corredor de la Montaña. If arriving by transit, take one of the many buses from the Terminal del Norte to Pachuca. From there, you can get a taxi to Huasca.

Hidden Gems of Modern Mexico City Architecture & Design

If you’re an architecture enthusiast in Mexico City, world class design spanning every era surrounds you. By exploring the metropolis, you can discover everything from Aztec engineering marvels to cutting-edge skyscrapers, colonial convents to stunning examples of 20th Century Mexican Modernism. While I love it all, the latter is my absolute favorite. The 1900s brought remarkable change to Mexico City’s built landscape.

This was the era of homegrown modernist architects like Luis Barragán, Teodoro González de León, a nd Mario Pani. They were accompanied by multitalented jacks-of-all-trades like Juan O’Gorman, Diego Rivera, and Vicente Rojo. Together, these revolutionary artists transformed Mexico City architecture into something uniquely chilango. They combined Prehispanic motifs and geometry with sleek modernist lines and materials. The result is a thrilling Mexican vernacular architecture that continues to fascinate me.

You may already be familiar with some of this Mexico City architecture. The Casa Luis Barragán, the Monumento de la Revolución, and the Ciudad Universitaria (University City) are all famed examples that no one should miss! But once you’ve checked these well-known marvels off the list, I strongly encourage you to discover the other sites below. I’m mostly focusing on lesser-known spots from these incredible architects and artists, giving you the chance to experience the rich variety of Mexico City modernism without the crowds. Keep in mind that I’ve honed in on 20th Century Modernism here, not 21st Century contemporary architecture! (I’ll save that for a future post.)

Casa Gilardi & Casa Prieto López

If you’re a modern architecture buff, your first stop in Mexico City is probably the Casa Luis Barragán. This UNESCO World Heritage Site served as the home of Barragán, Mexico’s most famous architect, for decades. An emblem of Mexican minimalism and a strong influence on architects even today, it’s beloved for good reason! But after you’ve visited the Casa Barragán, don’t forget to check out the architect’s other spectacular designs around Mexico City.

Casa Gilardi

The Casa Gilardi, just a few blocks away from Barragán’s own house, is a privately-owned home hidden on a quiet street in San Miguel Chapultepec. But the slice of bright pink on its exterior hints at the groundbreaking architecture within. Casa Gilardi exemplifies everything we associate with Barragán today: contrasting, brilliant yellows, pinks, and blues, clean lines, an innate understanding of natural light, and seamless integration of the interior and exterior patio.

Casa Prieto López

Head (much) further south in the city and you’ll arrive at the rocky Pedregal. Luis Barragán and colleague Max Cetto were the first architects to envision the Pedregal as a habitable urban space. Previously, chilangos saw this wilderness of undulating cooled lava as untamable. An area of tarantulas and snakes, it was fit for painters’ eyes and photographers’ lenses, but not for modern homes. Barragán and Cetto saw the Pedregal as an untouched canvas to enact their vision of a uniquely Mexican, wholly organic community where modernist homes would perfectly blend into to the wild landscape. After Cetto built his own home there (see below), Barragán moved forward with a daring development plan. This started with the Casa Pedregal, officially known as the Casa Prieto López.

While still exemplifying Barragán’s signature style, the Casa Prieto López’s greatest strength is the Pedregal itself. Rough curves and valleys of black volcanic rock surround the home, forming the singular garden and appearing in surprising ways within the structure itself. The contrast between dark, porous stone and highly saturated pops of color is spectacular.

How to Visit Casa Gilardi and Casa Prieto López

The family still resides in Casa Gilardi, only allowing tours on certain days.

Both these homes are privately owned, but open for small group tours on certain days if you reserve in advance. Write to the Casa Gilardi owners on their Facebook page here or at casagilardi@gmail.com. The Casa Gilardi has an entrance fee of $300 pesos and charges an additional $500 pesos for a photography pass. You can walk there if you’re in the Roma/Condesa area. Take an Uber/Didi from anywhere, or of course, take my beloved Metro. It’s close to the Juanacatlán (Línea 1) and Constituyentes (Línea 7) stops. It’s well worth the trip to see this unique Mexico City architecture.

As for Prieto López, the current owner has done wonders to restore the house and garden to their former glory. Write them at visitas@casapedregal.com to make a reservation. It costs $800 pesos for foreigners, $500 pesos for Mexicans, $450 pesos for foreign students, or $275 pesos for Mexican students. If you aren’t yet ready to fork out the cash, one part of the property has been converted into Tetetlán, a stunning restaurant focused on local and organic ingredients. It’s a little pricey as well, but has great food and is worth it for the floor alone. (Think: clear floors exposing the volcanic rock below.) You can take an Uber/Didi there fairly quickly (20-30 mins) from central areas of the city.

Casa Orgánica

On a clear day, enjoy the *Casa Organica’s* views of the Mexico City Valley.

When architect Javier Senosian finally announced that his famed Casa Orgánica would open to the public as a museum last December, I signed up for a tour immediately. But before I could go, Covid-19 cases rose drastically and the city slid back in the dreaded Semáforo Rojo lockdown. All museums, galleries, restaurants, and so on closed from one moment to the next, including the Casa Orgánica. As of June 2021, however, the house is back open for very small group private tours.

After my long wait, I was finally able to visit the Casa Orgánica recently. What I discovered was absolutely thrilling. Senosian, who studied under clean-lined functionalists at the UNAM, took his designs in the complete opposite direction as he developed his architectural practice. A strong believer in the power of natural, curved forms and textures, Senosian has become the foremost creator of organic architecture in Mexico. 1985’s Casa Orgánica, where he lived with his family for several decades, is a stunning example. The house eschews straight lines and angles. It literally embraces you in a labyrinthine, womb-like space of poured “ferro-concrete” bends and curves. (The uterus is actually a big inspiration for Senosian, who believes it’s the first space we ever experience.)

The home’s womb-like feel embraces visitors.

The Tour Today

The Casa Orgánica tour, led by Senosian’s knowledgable students, is a spectacular sensory journey from the outset. You must remove your shoes at the door, padding through the luxuriously carpeted house in your socks. Winding, arterial hallways lead into spacious rooms with thoughtful built-in furniture, from serpentine cabinets to curved, inviting beds. The house is just as Senosian left it before moving, filled with his art, clothing, and even books. It’s full of fascinating details, including a sculptural painted eye that stares straight at the Torres de Satélite, an architectural site designed by Barragán and Senosian’s teacher, Mathías Goeritz. The exterior of the house is just as jaw-dropping. Most of the Casa Orgánica is covered by curves of grass and climbing bougainvillea blooms. A shark-shaped addition emerges from the sod. Whether you’re a design student or a mere photo-snapping Mexico City architecture fan like me, visiting the house is incredible.

Take off your shoes upon entering, and enjoy the house’s soft floors and smooth edges.

How to Visit the Casa Orgánica

Learn more about the house, Javier Senosian, and scheduling a visit at https://www.casaorganica.org/visitas. Bring cash for your ticket. (And maybe some extra efectivo to buy one of the excellent books about Senosian’s architecture on site.) You can take Uber/Didi to Naucalpan to reach the house in about 30 to 40 minutes, depending on traffic.

Museo Anahuacalli

The museum rises, a temple to Mexican modernism and the prehispanic past.

When a family friend visited years ago, I told him about some of Diego Rivera’s most unique projects: the mosaic-ed sculpture Fuente de Tlaloc, his lesser-known portraiture, and of course, the Museo Anahuacalli. “No no no,” he mansplained to me, “You must be mistaken…Rivera was a muralist, not an architect!” Fortunately for us all, I was definitely not mistaken. Rivera’s sprawling career crossed disciplines and borders. It showed him to be a multifaceted Renaissance man who dabbled in everything from writing to fireplace-building.

But Rivera best expressed his vision on a monumental scale. The Anahuacalli Museum in far-south Mexico City is perhaps the greatest example of his brilliant creativity. (Other than his murals, of course.) Rivera’s great life passion — other than women — was collecting Mesoamerican artifacts. In fact, he amassed over 50,000 spectacular pieces over the years: a collection fit for a museum! So fit for a museum, in fact, that Rivera built one himself. He selected this lava-covered slice of the southern Pedregal for his temple to ancient Mexicanidad, combining Prehispanic influences with clean modernism for a truly one-of-a-kind building. The Anahuacalli Museum rises like a black lava fortress from the soil, half gothic and half mexica.

This artifact altar is one of the Anahuacalli’s most stunning spots.

The Museum Itself

The museum’s leadership describes it as “inspired by pre-Hispanic architecture, the work of Frank Lloyd Wright, and functionalist aesthetics.” If you think that sounds like a bewildering mix, it is. Yet the jack-of-all-trades artist makes it work, creating a uniquely Riverian modernist pyramid. It’s genuinely one of a kind within Mexico City architecture. The interior holds about 2,000 fascinating treasures over three stories, spanning every region and culture of Mexico. Each display case is a work of art, particularly the breathtaking “altar” on the ground floor. Finally, the outside and inside of the Museo Anahuacalli are studded with stone mosaics and motifs, which line the walls, floor, and even ceiling.

How to Visit the Museo Anahuacalli

I relish the texture of *tezontle,* rugged volcanic stone.

You can easily take an Uber/Didi to and from the museum. It’s also accessible via public transportation: take the Metro to Tasqueña, then hop on the Tren Ligero or a combi to get the rest of the way there. (It is a wee bit complicated this way.) The museum is currently open with limited capacity, and you must buy tickets in advance here.

Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Casa Juan O’Gorman

The famed “bridge of love” connecting Frida and Diego’s homes.

Now let’s move on to a drastically different set of buildings, also associated with Diego Rivera himself. When Rivera and Frida Kahlo first married, they asked their friend Juan O’Gorman to design a house for them. The result was their functionalist yet whimsical Studio-House, independent homes connected by a thin bridge. While that’s the simple story we’re told in films like Frida, the reality of these groundbreaking designs begins much earlier.

Casa O’Gorman

Just a few meters from Diego and Frida’s one-time home sits a humble red house in a similar style. In the late 1920s, O’Gorman built the house for his father Cecil, though Juan ended up living and working in it himself. A painter, muralist, and architect, Juan greatly admired the ideas of modernists like Le Corbusier. He seized this 1929 opportunity to build something drastically different from any other Mexican home. The result was the first functionalist structure in the country. Today known as the Casa Juan O’Gorman, the two-level concrete home features a simple yet elegant curved staircase and broad paneled windows. It was revolutionary in its simplicity and experimental form. O’Gorman’s neighbors in San Ángel, however, didn’t appreciate its beauty at first. Like the Eiffel Tower and plenty of other buildings before it, many hated the Casa O’Gorman. Traditionalists preferred the area’s classic, colonial homes.

Casa Estudio Diego Rivera

It’s only over the course of the 20th Century that we learned to appreciate this little house and its outsized significance in Mexico’s architectural history. Kahlo and Rivera, however, adored their friend’s avant garde spirit. Only a few years after he moved in, they commissioned their house right next door in 1931. It really functions as an extension of O’Gorman’s original aesthetic on a larger scale, adding elements of white and blue to the red-hued concrete, as well as a striking green “fence” of cacti.

Diego’s studio is a fascinating architectural space — and a glimpse into the mind of the artist.

Kahlo herself only lived here for few years before returning to her childhood home — today’s famous Casa Azul — but Diego continued painting and partially living here for decades. Inside the larger structure, Diego’s art studio is the inarguable star of the show, highlighting his eclectic work and folk art collection. Note the double-height paneled windows. O’Gorman designed these so that Rivera could transport the gargantuan pieces of his murals/mural studies out with a crane.

How to Visit the Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Casa Juan O’Gorman

In a fairly quiet, colonial part of southern Mexico City, these houses stand in stark contrast to the historic San Ángel Inn across the street. If you’re using public transportation, I recommend taking the Metrobus down to the La Bombilla stop. Then, you can stroll through a few lovely blocks of the cobblestoned, colonial neighborhood on your way to modernity. The houses are open Tuesday-Sunday, 10-5:30 PM. If you have a little extra cash, pop into the San Ángel Inn for a delicious breakfast.

Museums of Chapultepec Forest

Nestled among the lush greenery of Mexico City’s famed Bosque de Chapultepec — the lungs of the city, sprawling twice the size of NYC’s Central Park — lie three stunning examples of Mexican Modernism. This area is home to several of the city’s best museums: the Anthropology Museum, the Museum of Modern Art, and the Tamayo Contemporary Art Museum.

Anthropology Museum

The Anthropology Museum is hardly a hidden gem. Still, it merits a mention not only for its jaw-dropping contents — astounding artifacts from Aztec and Mayan cultures, Gulf Coast and Teotihuacán, Tula and Monte Albán — but for its unique Mexico City architecture. In the 1960s, architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez drew inspiration from the Precolumbian past and cutting-edge modernity for this hymn to clean lines and monumental volumes. The most striking feature is the long stone courtyard, centered by a towering column carved with stone reliefs by the Chávez Morado brothers.

Tamayo Museum

The clean, yet richly textured exterior of the Tamayo.

Right next door, I may not be a huge fan of the ultra-contemporary art within. That said, the architecture of the Tamayo Museum is striking in its own right. Designed by one of my favorite architects, Teodoro González de León, along with Abraham Zabludovsky, the angular, concrete building accentuates its natural surroundings, providing an eye-catching contrast without alienating the landscape.

Modern Art Museum

In addition to its lovely architecture, the MAM features an enviable collection of Mexican modern art.

Finally, there’s the Museo de Arte Moderno (MAM), one of my favorite Mexico City museums. This stunner holds both permanent collections and rotating exhibitions highlighting the best of Mexican modern art. Sitting a stone’s throw away across Reforma Avenue, the MAM doesn’t grab your attention from the outside. Along with many museums of the 1950s and 1960s in Mexico, this was an emblem of an emergent, modernizing country. The original design by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez (who also designed the Anthropology Museum) was never fully realized, but what they did create remains lovely. Divided into two structures, enjoy both buildings’ warm, surreal domes, which seem to glow from within like mother-of-pearl washed up on the coastal sand. In between the two buildings, a wonderful and varied sculpture garden lies among the trees.

How to Visit the Chapultepec Forest Museums

Due to their central location along Reforma Avenue, these paragons of Mexico City architecture are very accessible. You can easily reach all three via Metro (Line 7, Auditorio stop and stroll down to the museums) or the Auditorio stop of the Reforma Metrobus. Or make a fun day trip of it and enjoy a Sunday bike ride down Reforma (when it’s closed to cars), popping in to whichever museum suits your fancy. Oh, and they’re all free that day! The MAM and Tamayo are open Tuesday-Sunday, 11 AM to 5 PM. The Anthropology Museum is currently open Tuesday-Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM (somewhat odd pandemic hours).

Espacio Escultórico of the UNAM

Once upon a time, the territory which the National University (University Nacional Autónoma de México) calls home was a singular wilderness: the Pedregal. After the volcano Xitle erupted 11,000 years ago, it left rolling coils of cooled, cracking lava across the landscape, creating a wholly unique ecosystem. While sadly, development has impacted much of this ecology, several forward-thinkers — most famously Luis Barragán, of course — recognized the untamed beauty of the Pedregal. Within the UNAM campus, sculptor Federico Silva completed his masterpiece, the Espacio Escultórico (Sculptural Space), in 1979.

The space consists of a giant circle of wild volcanic rock. The circle is surrounded by a wide path and looming, angled stone monoliths. Six huge modern sculptures lie scattered around, rising dramatically from the rugged landscape. Many consider this the largest outdoor sculptural installation in the world.

How to Visit the Espacio Escultórico

The space lies within the Centro Cultural Universitario (CCU). The CCU is easily reached via the Metrobus down Insurgentes Sur Avenue, to the stop of the same name. Unfortunately it’s only open from Monday through Friday, 7 AM to 4 PM, but access is free. It appears that the Espacio is still closed due to Covid, but I hope this changes soon! While you’re there, take a look at the Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo (MUAC), a fairly recently-built, cutting-edge museum designed by Teodoro González de León. It’s currently open Friday-Sunday, 11 AM to 5 PM.

Museo del Chopo

*El Chopo* rises like a neogothic, post-industrial behemoth out of the everyday city.

When I first stumbled upon the Museo del Chopo on a walk through the Santa María la Ribera neighborhood, I had no idea what I was looking at — even more, I was completely unaware of this building’s bizarre, century-long history. Still, the odd structure, lined by two skeletal towers, entranced me. Rising like a steampunk factory on the edge of a traditional neighborhood, the museum is both out of place and perfectly fitting. After all, el Chopo represents the beginning of Mexico’s modernist era in many ways.

The story of this mysterious building stretches back, improbably, to Queen Victoria’s Great Exposition in London, and the Crystal Palace built to house its marvels. This sparked a craze for world and regional fairs, along with gothic-industrial buildings in a style known as Jugendstil, often combined with elements of art nouveau. In 1902, architect Bruno Möhring designed a particularly interesting structure for a fair in Dusseldorf — and that’s where the story gets weird. A Mexican exposition company took notice of the Dusseldorf building. Eventually, they shipped it piece-by-piece to Mexico, where it arrived to the capital via the old Buenavista Train Station, and was painstakingly rebuilt here. Since those bold days, el Chopo has served as a Japanese Pavilion, a natural history museum, an abandoned ruin. Today, it’s a gorgeously restored UNAM museum dedicated to avant garde art and performance, with a special focus on LGBTQ+ cultural expression.

The museum’s interior feels half barn, half River Rouge factory.

How to Visit the Museo del Chopo

You can access the area around the museum easily via the Buenavista Metro or Metrobus stations. This is the site of the old train station, though sadly no longer home to passenger trains destined for all of Mexico. Unfortunately, due to the pandemic, the museum itself remains closed. You can check the current status of its opening here, but for the time being, it’s nice to walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the building’s oddball exterior. In the 70s, el Chopo began hosting a punk/rock music tianguis, or weekly Saturday market. This eventually spread to the surrounding streets, and it’s still thriving today, with music, clothing, and much more. El Chopo has brought together the best of European and Mexico City architecture.

Casa Estudio Max Cetto

The Casa Estudio blends beautifully into its natural surroundings. Mexico City architecture in its most ecological form.

Before Luis Barragán, before Diego Rivera, in the Pedregal lived Max Cetto. This German Jewish architect fled the Nazis in 1938, later bringing his creative talents and collaborative design vision to Mexico City. A few years later, he became a Mexican citizen and moved to the untamed Pedregal of cooled lava, endemic plants, and crystal-clear views of the volcanoes to the southeast. (A rare occurrence in smoggy CDMX these days, sigh.) Cetto made himself right at home there, building the first ever modern house in the area.

The house combines elements of Mexican functionalism with richly realized artisanal details. The structure itself is lovely and interesting, but immeasurably enhanced by the natural environment. The gardens integrate seamlessly with the volcanic rock and greenery. The outside is brought in even more with floor length windows. Nearing the end of this article, can you tell that I love the Pedregal and volcanic stone (tezontle)?

An old agave springs forth from sheer rock in the back garden.

How to Visit the Casa Estudio Max Cetto

This house is no longer in the midst of the wilderness, but it’s still kind of tricky to reach via public transportation. I recommend taking an Uber/Didi there. Email contacto@casaestudiomaxcetto.com to schedule a visit.

Mario Pani’s Historic Multifamiliares (Midcentury Government High-rises)

Sunrise at the *multi,* overlooking the clear-skyed city far below.

To wrap up this rambling story, it’s important to remember that not all Important Mexico City Architecture with a capital A is built for wealthy patrons or elite artists residing in private homes — or for that matter, in the luxury apartments springing up around the city. In fact, some of the most significant architectural movements around Latin America have developed by or for the people. My favorite examples of this mass architecture are the multifamiliares dotted around Mexico City. The populist-oriented government constructed these “multifamily” complexes years before high-rise public housing came to the U.S. Often, these buildings have thrived even as their counterparts across the border fell apart.

Centro Urbano Presidente Alemán (CUPA)

The CUPA, or multi, as many neighbors know it, kicked off decades of urban growth in Mexico City. In stark contrast to the low, crowded vecindades most chilangos once lived in, this 15-building complex would bring modernity. It all started with legendary Mexican architect Mario Pani, designer of the famed University City. He obsessed over French visionary Le Corbusier’s ideas for “vertical cities” and habitational units. These grand functionalist designs, both men believed, could bring a greater quality of life to city dwellers. At the same time, they’d allow governments to house great quantities of people in tall buildings.

The interplay of color, texture, and form at the CUPA.

In the late 1940s, Pani convinced the Mexican government to finance his first project, and the CUPA burst into existence as the first multifamiliar building in Latin America. To hear Pani tell it, the CUPA may actually be a world’s first. Le Corbusier himself didn’t finish his (much more famous, hmph) Unité d’Habitation de Marseille until a year later, in 1949, and even then on a much smaller scale, as the French government was deeply skeptical of the architect’s radical ideas. These days, the CUPA may be a bit worse for wear after over 70 years of life, but it remains a vibrant, collective community that’s very close to my heart. Its gray-and-red exterior —endless repetitions of windowpanes and open hallways, hanging laundry and rich greenery spilling from built-in concrete boxes — forms a mesmerizing pattern that combines the best of Mexican functionalism and brutalism.

Tlatelolco

Perhaps no structures hold a more complex, love-hate place in the Mexican zeitgeist than Tlatelolco. Designed by Mario Pani in 1960, this complex executed Pani’s vision on a stunning scale. It originally contained 102 buildings, with 11,916 apartments holding around 70,000 inhabitants. In fact, Tlatelolco remains the second largest apartment complex in North America. Its jaw-dropping scale and sleek, livable design represented the pinnacle of Pani’s funcionalist vision.

Yet that’s only the beginning of Tlatelolco’s story. In 1968, the Mexican government perpetrated the infamous Tlatelolco massacre on unarmed student protesters here. Snipers and police used the buildings to murder students in the plaza below, and hunt survivors. Tlatelolco became a symbol for the dark side of Mexican modernity, embodying both its promise and the ruthless consequences enacted by a government desperate to present modern, “civilized” perfection in the lead-up to the 1968 Olympics. Then, Tlatelolco was hit by yet another tragedy during the 1985 Earthquake. Built near the highly unstable center of the city, one of the high-rises collapsed entirely. Several others were damaged or not well-maintained over the years. Ninety buildings survive to this day, but sadly Pani’s vision of a city within the megacity has not survived fully intact.

How to Visit Mario Pani’s Multifamiliares

Unlike many of the buildings on this list, these are not museums or private residences open for tours. Instead, the CUPA and Tlatelolco are still home to thousands of residents from all walks of life. Many neighbors are friendly and fiercely proud of their home, but that doesn’t mean all are comfortable with tourist groups wandering around and snapping tons of photos. Both areas are open to the public, but I would ask that you be respectful and thoughtful while visiting these historic, integral parts of the fabric of Mexico City architecture.

You can reach Tlatelolco via the Metro Stop of the same name. There are also some slower buses that come here, but they get very crowded and I haven’t felt especially comfortable on them as a woman. The CUPA should be easily accessible with the 20 de Noviembre Metro Stop, but Line 12 is completely down. It’s been replaced by frequent, fairly speedy buses along Felix Cuevas avenue. (Or just walk 15 minutes from the Zapata or Felix Cuevas Metro/Metrobus stops.) As in any busier part of the city, be cautious and don’t carry around tons of valuables, of course. These complexes were truly designed as “cities within the city” complete with their own schools, green spaces, libraries, laundromats, stores, restaurants and much more. While you explore, support these local businesses with a purchase or two. Many of them are owned by or employ residents.

Había una Res: A Stunning Slice of South America in Mexico City

As a die-hard fan of gringo supermarket Trader Joe’s and its glorious selection of prepared foods, moving to Mexico was a big shock to my system. The first time I entered a Mexico City freezer section, I nearly wept. I found a couple frozen pizzas, lots of ice cream, and a few breakfast foods. Things have improved a bit since then. This is still a city with zillions of talented home cooks and street food vendors, though. Here, many still see frozen prepared food as an option of last resort. (P.S. Obviously, I love Mexico City cuisine, or I wouldn’t still be here! Still, I do sometimes crave some delicious prepared food, especially with global flavors.)

Fortunately, while wandering through my neighborhood last fall, I discovered Había una Res. This lovely café and shop features pre-prepared meals and frozen ingredients from South America. This article is in no way sponsored, by the way — I just love the place! The unique store opened in the middle of the pandemic (last July) in a quiet part of Colonia del Valle. As a result, I wanted to help this under-the-radar shop connect with my fellow foreigners. If you’re anything like me, you’re craving the different flavors of international cuisine. And if you can make the dishes as easily as anything from Trader Joe’s, Picard Surgelés, or Planet Organic (depending on where you’re from), so much the better.

The Mexican & South American Story of Había una Res

After months of enjoying their Venezuelan arepas, Colombian cheeses, and fresh passionfruit juices, I finally sat down with the café/shop’s owners for a Sunday afternoon coffee. A few weeks ago, I chatted with twin founders Bárbara and Paola Pérez Galicia, as well as Bárbara’s husband, Gerardo Velázquez de León — all native chilangos. As I sat in their cozy café space surrounded by murals (painted by the sisters), they told me the story of how Había una Res came to be.

Paola lived in Colombia for nearly a decade, falling in love with its food and culture. Still, when she came across a Mexican restaurant or ingredient there, a wave of nostalgia would wash over her. As a world traveler, Bárbara knew that sensation as well: “The experience of living abroad, and the feeling you get stumbling upon a familiar place” — particularly one with familiar foods — brought them both a profound sense of home.

When Paola returned to Mexico, both lifelong foodies began brainstorming a project that would capture that feeling for others. (And give Paola access to all her favorite Colombian ingredients!) With Mexico City’s Venezuelan and Colombian community growing rapidly, they decided to give them a taste of home. After years of work, the result was Había una Res, where you’ll find authentic tequeños and arepas (Bárbara and Gerardo’s favorites), the exotic lulo fruits that Paola craves, as well as lasagnas and guisados, homemade cheeses and sauces, South American sodas, desserts, chorizos, and vegetables.

Supporting South Americans

The sisters have always been adventurous cooks, but perfecting South American flavors took time and dedication. They scoured Mexico City for the right ingredients, building a tight-knit network of specialist providers, many of them immigrants themselves. Together, they formed “a community of micro-businesses that we can help to develop and grow,” as Paola puts it. After tasting their final creations, Gerardo was impressed. “They perfectly capture that South American sabor” he had encountered during his own travels. Había una Res has also worked to employ South Americans, in the shop/café and as suppliers. “As Mexicans, we want to support South Americans who have come here,” Bárbara explains. “We also hope that our fellow Mexicans will discover the rich food and ingredients of South America.”

While Paola, Bárbara, and Gerardo all know what it’s like to feel nostalgic for your home cuisine, they recognize that for some in Mexico City, that feeling of longing can be much stronger. “When you’re unable to go back to your home country,” Paola says, as in the case of many Venezuelans living abroad, “the nostalgia must be so much stronger.” All three describe the wonderful feeling when a South American customer walks in for the first time. There, they can discover dishes and ingredients that immediately transport them home. “Sometimes,” Paola says, “they walk in and end up spending an hour or two looking around!”

The Golden Age of Frozen Food

Opening in July 2020, in the midst of Covid-19, may have seemed intimidating. In fact, their launch coincided with our collective craving for high quality frozen foods. Había una Res was a perfect match in the era of “stay at home” orders and semáforo rojo. “We want to make people’s lives easier,” Gerardo says. “With our meals they can eat healthier and better, for a reasonable price.” Next, the team hopes to expand further into Mexican regional and other international dishes. They’ve already got a stellar cochinita pibil (Yucatán pork dish), so I can’t wait to see their new creations!

I’m certainly not a South American emigré myself. But as a lover of delicious — and easy to prepare — international cuisine, I’ve become a frequent customer at Había una Res during the pandemic year. Swing by to pick something up or linger at the café itself, savoring its fresh cuisine and warm, friendly staff. Best of all, they deliver throughout Mexico City for a small distance-based fee. As Bárbara says, “Support local businesses. The more that we help each other, the stronger the economy will grow to get us out of the current crisis.”

You can order directly through the Había una Res Facebook page here, or on Cornershop. Visit them in-person at Parroquia 716 in the Colonia del Valle neighborhood, 10 AM to 8 PM everyday. I hope you enjoy this slice of South America as much as I have!

Mexico City’s Sensational Street Food: How to Eat Your Way Through Town

Mexico City is going through a gastronomic renaissance. The vibrant metropolis is buzzing with new restaurant openings, from flavorful international joints to revivals of. Despite all this hype — some of it well-deserved — the city’s lifeblood isn’t found in these fancy, instagrammable hotspots. It’s in Mexico City street food.

Delicious delicacies can be found is on every corner in town. Even in the wealthiest neighborhoods, a taco truck will sneak its way in, a tianguis (weekly market) or neighborhood bazaar setting up wherever it can find the space. Street food is a way of life in this city! This guide will take you through the classics you can try.

Elote and Esquites

This first go-to street food is almost too obvious to mention. Corn has been king in Mexico since ancient times, and today is no exception. (Drive six hours south of Mexico City, and you’ll arrive in Tehuacán, whose church holds the oldest corn kernels in the country.) Everywhere in the city, you’ll come across the tantalizing scent of roast corn.

Elote, the basis of Mexican street food. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

This, of course, is from elote and esquites, staples of everyday life in the country. Elote is a corn cob, either boiled or roasted, then placed on a stick. Esquites is similar, but has been boiled with poblano peppers, cut off the cob and placed in a cup to eat with a spoon. Both get a bath of crema (Mexican sour cream), lime, crumbly and salty cotija cheese, and as much or as little chile as you want. I always search out the roasted elote on the grill, as I love its charred flavor.

Best Spots to Enjoy It: Outside the Anthropology Museum on Reforma Avenue, buy tasty roast elote and enjoy it on a bench under the tree canopy, across the street in Chapultepec Forest. If you’re more adventurous, get the beloved esquites at the Mercado Jamaica flower market downtown. A famous stand there sells them made with cacahuazintle, a unique large-kerneled corn native to Mexico, and flavors them with fragrant herbs and spices. Really, however, you can enjoy this treat anywhere in the city!

Pambazos

Oh, the glory that is the pambazo, Mexico City’s legendary sandwich. My first week working in the city, my new friend took me to the tianguis (open air markets that have existed since Aztec days) that took over the street near our office every Thursday. There, we had to choose between every possible type of Mexico City street food.

A stack of sauce-soaked, crispy bread rolls awaits their flavorful filling. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Out of all this abundance, she recommended I try the pambazo. My life has never been the same…this sandwich is a uniquely chilango creation. The cook soaks bread in a tomato and chile-based sauce, then bakes it all over again. Once you order your pambazo, they’ll toss some chorizo and chopped potatoes onto the grill to cook, topping them off with crema and salsa. After that, eat up! The result is a delicious blend of textures (crunchy, soft) and flavors (spice, meatiness, acidity). Every once in a while, I get an intense craving for one of these and search out the closest street cart.

Torta de Tamal/Guajolota

Every weekday morning, Mexico City’s metro, buses, and roads fill with godinez, workers heading off to their offices. On their way through the hustle and bustle of the city, many stop for a wholesome breakfast: the guajolota, or torta de tamal. This is exactly what it sounds like: a tamale sandwich.

The *guajolota* may not be the most beautiful food, but trust me on its deliciousness. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

When I first came to the city, I thought this was a terrible idea for a food. Who’s ever eaten a tamale and thought, “I need more bread and carbohydrates on this”? And yet, that fateful day when I finally got one…I loved it. Somehow, the combo of crusty bolillo (a Mexican sandwich roll) and tamale just works, especially once salsa and even avocado or jalapeño add new textures to the mix. I only eat them every once in a while, but when I do, it’s the ultimate godín indulgence!

Atole and Champurrado

Remember how corn is king in Mexico? That extends throughout Mexico City street food, from meals (tamales) to snacks (elote) to drinks! On those bustling workweek mornings, right next to the tamale stands you’ll see vendors selling steaming cups of atole, a traditional corn-based drink. It’s sweet, with a creamy, satisfying texture that’s perfect for chilly mornings in the mountainous city. Even better is champurrado, basically atole prepared with chocolate. It’s like a thicker version of hot chocolate, and I treat myself to one every once in a while.

*Champurrado* is like a thick, filling hot chocolate. I love the one’s served in Desierto de los Leones National Park. Photo by the gringa herself.

Best Spots to Enjoy It: Just like tamales and elote, you can find this treat almost anywhere in the city every morning. That said, however, the best champurrado I’ve had is in Desierto de los Leones National Park, a lovely pine forest in the south of the city. (I have to do a whole post on this place soon.) There’s a row of little open air restaurants there, with delicious fresh champurrado and a perfect, crisp woodland atmosphere.

Camote (Mexican Sweet Potato)

Mexico City is a sensory experience: locals can take a quick glance at a picture, whiff of a certain smell, or even tune into a particular sound, and they know it’s their beloved Ciudad de México. One of the most distinctive sounds of the cityscape comes every evening around 6 pm. Sitting in my house or working at the office, I hear a long, low whistle echo through the street below. No matter where they are in the world now, chilangos remember that sound with longing and nostalgia.

*Camoteros* and their steam whistle are an iconic part of Mexico City life. Photo courtesy of Flickr.

That melancholy whistle is a relic of Mexico City’s past, passing through the 21st century metropolis. It comes from the camotero: the sweet potato vendor pushing his heavy metal cart down the streets and alleyways of the city. Inside the cart, flavorful camotes are steaming, and he releases the steam out of a chute to create the whistle sound. As a result, people know the camotero is nearby, and they can come down to buy his delicious wares. He serves the sweet potatoes with toppings like brown sugar and sweetened condensed milk. Buying his wares is not only delicious: it’s taking a step back in time, and supporting a Mexico City street food tradition.

Tacos, Quekas, Oh My! (Variations on Tortilla + Meat)

I could make an entire guide (an entire encyclopedia, in fact) just explaining the combinations of tortillas and meat you can find in this city. A famous Mexican comedian even has a joke about popular Mexico City street foods: when you boil it down to the essentials, most are a combo of tortilla, meat, beans, and salsa! But in short, here are the two most common tortilla-meat combos you’ll find in in the city. Others I don’t have space to describe in detail here include: gorditas (thick corn dough stuffed with meat), tostadas (fried hard tortilla topped with almost anything you can think of, sopes (a little corn masa circle topped with vegetables, meat, and cheese), gringas (a rare flour tortilla in Mexico City, filled with melty cheese and meat)…and oh my gosh, so many more.

Tacos:

You already know this one — small tortilla filled with meat, topped with salsa, and often white onion, cilantro, and as much lime juice as possible. But there’s endless variation within this simple template! Tacos al pastor are the most popular in Mexico City, and these spit-roasted, marinated pork tacos topped with pineapple are beloved for good reason. They came to Mexico via Lebanese immigrants at the turn of the last century. Beyond pastor, you can get chorizo (spiced sausage), arrachera (flank steak), lengua (tongue), tacos de canasta (tacos made at home and sold from baskets), even sometimes sesos (brains). And that’s only the tip of the iceberg!

Mexico City street food is incredibly diverse! I love this guide, which (if you speak Spanish) goes through the taxonomy of dishes. Photo courtesy of Pictoline.

Quesadillas:

You probably think you know what these are. Tortillas filled with melted cheese, right? Haha, think again. Mexico City street vendors very logically decided that quesadillas shouldn’t have cheese, unless specified. It’s a weird quirk of the city. Here, you have to order a “quesadilla con queso” (with cheese) if that’s what you want! Cheese or no cheese, these are tortilled stuffed with beef, chicken, etc., folded in half and fried. They’re delicious, and go by the nickname quekas.

Final note: One of the best things about Mexico City taco stands is consommé. The cook saves the delicious meat juices as he’s making beef tacos, and turns them into incredibly flavorful soup! They’ll give it to you free with your tacos. Add cilantro and lime, and enjoy. (If you’re eating barbacoa tacos, you’re in for an especially delicious consommé.)

Chilaquiles

A block from my office, godinez line up every Friday morning for a Mexico City delicacy: chilaquiles. This dish is what office workers dream about all week. A bed of crispy totopos (fresh tortilla chips) is drowned in spicy, acidic green or red salsa made especially for the chilaquiles. You can throw some chicken, flank steak, or fried eggs on top, then everything gets a dousing of chopped white onion, cotija cheese, and crema (Mexican sour cream). The flavors mix and mingle: crunchy and soft, rich and spicy, savory and sour.

For a Mexico City twist, get a torta de chilaquiles. This is literally a sandwich filled with green chilaquiles. Yes, chilangos make sandwiches out of everything! Finally, there’s an eternal debate about which are better, red or green. I’m a strong proponent for green, but try both and decide for yourself…that green is better.

Best Spots to Enjoy It: I strongly recommend you seek out a place with a big grill, where they’re cooking everything fresh and only pour the salsa on once you order. If you see a bucket full of sauce and mushy tortilla chips, stay away. I am a weekly addict at a little white cart on Berlin Street in the Colonia Juárez, in between the streets Londres and Hamburgo.

Honorable Mentions

This guide is already getting rather long, and alas, there’s so much more I could say. To sum up, Mexico City street food is truly its own universe, full of endless possibilities. If dishes can possibly be combined or remixed, someone will do it — and go viral on Facebook in the process. Here’s a few honorable mentions that didn’t make it above:

August/September brings pomegranate to every fruit stand, while winter means fresh, smooth mango. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

Jochos: A Mexicanization of the word “hot dog,” but these are so much more. Hot dogs here are often wrapped in bacon, and topped with rajas (pickled vegetables), jalapeño chiles, and chopped onions. So flavorful!

Fresh Fruit and Juices: These are another staple on every street corner. Find chopped mango, jícama, even cups of pomegranate seeds depending on the seeds, and enjoy the freshest fruit. In the mornings, stop by a juice stand and order your custom blend of fruits and vegetables, all for a buck or two. If you go to a hipster “juice bar” in Mexico City, you’re wasting money and cheating yourself.

Chicharrón: I must admit, my jaw dropped the first time I saw someone walking down the street with a giant chicharrón. These fried pork skins are sold in little pieces as a snack, but it’s especially memorable when somebody buys the skin of an entire pig for their family. Sounds gross. Absolutely fantastic.

Five Underrated Mexico City Neighborhoods You Need to Visit

All too often, foreign visitors to the capital are directed to the same Mexico City neighborhoods. From Roma to Condesa, Coyoacán to Polanco, there’s nothing wrong with these beautiful areas of the metropolis, of course. This comfort zone might be easy, but hanging around only these well-heeled colonias can have downsides. You might end up surrounded by fellow foreigners, feeling a bit isolated from the rest of the city, culture, and language — not to mention having to deal with these areas’ tourist-oriented prices.

As a result, exploring some of Mexico City’s more off-the-beaten-track neighborhoods can be profoundly rewarding. All of the areas I’m sharing here are personal favorites that not only lie outside of the tourist bubble, but also have a stunning sense of history, from colonial Nueva España to the rapid growth and conflict of the 20th Century mega-city. Whether you’re a recent transplant to Mexico City or a future visitor, I hope you fall in love with one of these spots. I’m certainly enamored with all five.

1) Chimalistac

Jacaranda season transforms Chimalistac into a spring wonderland.

I hesitated to put this Mexico City neighborhood on the list at all, let alone at the very top. Why? Because it’s my favorite. Cobblestone-lined Chimalistac, crawling with colonial ghosts and bougainvillea, is one of the most peaceful, beautiful neighborhoods in the southern half of the city. The last thing I want is for hordes of tourists to flock here, so let’s keep this little secret between you and me.

Chimalistac sits right beneath Coyoacán and east of San Ángel, but receives a fraction of the visitors of these popular spots. Above all, this is because there’s not much to “do” here: the all-residential area has almost no restaurants or shops to entertain the easily distracted. So why go? Simply put, Chimalistac is one of the loveliest places — in the world, in my rather biased opinion — for a long stroll. Every idyllic street harbors colonial homes and thoughtful gardens, stone fountains and tiny, ancient chapels.

Just beyond the gates, busy Mexico City streets roar. But by this neighborhood fountain, tranquility reigns.

History

Like many of the areas on this list, Chimalistac was once an indigenous community (connected with Coyoacán) that paid tribute to the Aztec empire just north. Under Spanish rule, the neighborhood was settled by the barefoot Carmelite religious order, before becoming a more traditional family neighborhood. Today, you can pass over the same footbridge the monks once took to cross the Magdalena River — the water is gone though, replaced by Paseo del Río avenue. Enter the neighborhood from pretty Parque de la Bombilla, and after that, just wander aimlessly through the alleyways. Every time, I discover something new and delightful.

Chimalistac is one of the least-known Mexico City neighborhoods, making it a hidden treasure.

Eat at:

La Balance, a lovely little café and bakery nestled at the start of the neighborhood. Or cross Insurgentes Sur to San Angel, and eat at the famous (and deservedly so) El Cardenal.

Must-See:

The whole neighborhood during jacaranda bloom season (February-April), especially the area near the Casa de California. After that, don’t miss La Capilla de los Secretos (the Chapel of Secrets) in the center of a cobblestone intersection.

2) Tlalpan

Tlalpan is brimming with lovely colonial churches, traditional markets, and greenery.

Many chilangos (Mexico City residents) will tell you that Tlalpan is like Coyoacán was 20 or 30 years ago. Before Coyoacán, famed home to Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky, attracted tourists from around the city and world, it was a quietly bohemian neighborhood, still carrying vestiges of the outlying village it once was.

I agree with my chilango friends: today’s Tlalpan has much of that old world charm, without the crowds or souvenir hawkers. That said, the neighborhood isn’t some copy of Coyoacán, but a storied colonia with its own vibrant heritage. While Tlalpan is a sprawling delegation of Mexico City, I’m referring here primarily to the historic center of the area. But it’s absolutely worth visiting Cuicuilco just outside the center as well — it’s the oldest archaeological site in the city!

The *Museo del Tiempo,* or Museum of Time, is one of Tlalpan’s most unique offerings.

History

Tlalpan means roughly “on solid ground,” and while the city has constantly transformed around it, in the historic center of the neighborhood you will find that sense of solidity and continuity through time. Many indigenous communities have lived in the area through the centuries, including on the site of historic Tlalpan. Like so much of Mexico City, however, the most visible vestiges of the past come from the colonial and postcolonial eras. Wander through Tlalpan’s central plaza and encounter artisans, ice cream shops, and a lovely old town hall lined with murals. The real joy of Tlalpan is simply callejoneando: walking through the plaza and side streets, picking up a paleta here and some tacos there. In short, it’s a wonderful way to spend a Sunday.

Eat at:

Barra Alipus or the neighborhood market (in a brick building just behind the town hall)

Must-See:

Casa de la Cultura “Frisaac” and the Museo del Tiempo

3) Santa María la Ribera

Santa María la Ribera’s famed *Kiosko Morisco* makes a striking centerpiece for the neighborhood.

Now let’s head north of the city center to another of my favorite Mexico City neighborhoods. Santa María la Ribera is a lively, traditional colonia famed for its central plaza, the Alameda. Not to be confused with the larger Alameda park downtown, Santa María’s tree-lined plaza is home to the Kiosko Morisco. This architectural marvel is truly a Mexico City hidden treasure. Architect José Ramón Ibarrola built the Moorish-inspired structure for the World Exposition in New Orleans in 1884. After the festivities, though, the government brought it all the way to Mexico City, where the mesmerizing Kiosko has now sat, surrounded by jacaranda trees and street life, for over a century.

Santa María la Ribera, however, is much more than just its spectacular Kiosko. Diverse architecture lines the Alameda, from the neoclassical Museo de Geología to midcentury corners. Wander out from this central point, and you’ll find charming cafés and traditional neighborhood tianguis (temporary markets) throughout the neighborhood. Come on the weekend for a profusion of food, music, and artisanry all around the plaza. Head down to the Museo del Chopo on the southern edge of the neighborhood for quirky exhibitions. (Note: the museum hasn’t yet reopened at this point in the pandemic, but you can still enjoy its steampunk-esque architecture!) The stunning modernist Biblioteca Vasconcelos library is very nearby, in Buenavista.

Further south in the *colonia,* the *Museo Universitario del Chopo* stands out for its unique architecture.

History

Inaugurated in 1861, Santa María la Ribera was Mexico City’s first formalized, planned “neighborhood.” In the early 20th Century, rich chilango barons came here to escape the city and its pandemics of old (we’re talking Yellow Fever, not Covid-19). The area slowly opened up to working-class families as the rich left for newer developments, especially after the 1985 earthquake. If you’ve seen the film Roma, the neighborhood’s Alameda was also a part of the historical “Halconazo” massacre featured in the movie.

Today, Santa María la Ribera is a fascinating jumble. Blue collar families live side-by-side with young artists, academics who’ve been here for decades, feminist punks, and yes, a smattering of hipsters.

Eat at:

Kolobok, the best (and almost only) Russian restaurant in Mexico City

Must-See:

The Kiosko Morisco

4) Mixcoac

The small and inviting Plaza Gómez Farías is one of my favorite spots for a Sunday stroll.

During the worst moments of the pandemic, when even catching a cab seemed risky, I was eternally grateful for my close proximity to a colonial slice of Mixcoac. Within walking distance of my home, I’d first cross busy, modern Insurgentes Avenue and be transported to another era. Then, the sounds of the metropolis quickly faded away, and I was left in peace to wander through the cobblestone streets of Mixcoac. It’s truly one-of-a-kind amongst Mexico City neighborhoods.

History

Mixcoac means “place of worship of the cloud serpent” in indigenous Nahuatl. In fact, you can visit a small but interesting archaeological site in the neighborhood to learn more about its Prehispanic past. Most of what you see in the historic section of Mixcoac, though, comes from the 18th and 19th Centuries. During this era, it was a separate town outside the city. Moneyed chilangos built their summer homes here, and slowly roads and streetcars connected it to Mexico City until the megapolis swallowed Mixcoac whole.

The sprawling *Parroquia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán* is a beloved neighborhood icon.

You’ll find many vestiges of the past in Insurgentes Mixcoac, the traditional part of the neighborhood. For a tranquil afternoon stroll, start at the Parroquia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, a lovely red parish church. From there, head north past the Universidad Panamericana buildings via Augusto Rodin Street. You’ll soon arrive at Plaza Gómez Farías, where another charming church and square await. Explore the surrounding streets or head to Parque Hundido to finish your walk. This “sunken” park was once the site of a brick factory — built on the factory’s dug-out foundations, it sits several meters below street level.

Eat at:

Cal & Maíz, a restaurant dedicated to bringing back native Mexican forms of maize, as well as other indigenous ingredients.

Must-See:

Plaza Gómez Farías on Sunday, so you can buy delicious pastries from the nuns outside their convent on the western edge of the plaza.

5) Azcapotzalco

In Azcapotzalco’s central plaza, even the monuments wear masks.

Of all the lovely, historic Mexico City neighborhoods on this list, I arrived at Azcapotzalco last. Due to its northerly location and industrial surroundings, this neighborhood is often overlooked. Fortunately, my dear friend Gina works here, and when I finally took her up on a long-standing invitation to visit the area, I was delighted by what I found.

If you search amidst the bustle of modern Azcapotzalco, you’ll find plenty of traces of its fascinating past. Surrounding by busy shopping streets and hawkers, the neighborhood’s Zócalo (central plaza) is an oasis of calm. Neighbors chat as they walk under arching jacaranda trees, curving around a lovely pink gazebo in the center. The sprawling Catedral de los Santos Apóstoles Felipe y Santiago Church lies along one side of the plaza — I highly recommend exploring its tree-covered grounds and peaceful chapels. From this central spot, you can also reach the busy Mercado de Azcapotzalco, which brims with fresh produce, chiles, homemade mole sauces, and even natural healers, their stands piled high with aloe vera spines and dried herbs. (Ojo: The market can get crowded and mask use, while decent, is not omnipresent. This may be a better spot to visit post-pandemic.) In general, I recommend visiting Azcapotzalco during non-peak times, to avoid busy streets.

History

Azcapotzalco is legendary — in more ways than one. The Aztecs and other Nahuatl cultures called the area “the place of the ants,” a name derived from an ancient legend. They say that the God Quetzalcóatl, disguised as an ant, stole corn from the heavens and brought this essential Mexican food to mere mortals. Azcapotzalco has always held an important place in the city, both metaphorically and physically. It’s served as a crucial link between indigenous civilizations, a colonial center, and presently, a vibrant hub where tradition and industry live side by side.

The jacaranda-lined Zócalo features a lovely pink centerpiece.

Eat at:

La Conchería, a bakery lauded city-wide for its delectable and creative concha pastries

Must-See:

The Catedral de los Santos Apóstoles Felipe y Santiago

The neighborhood’s central church grounds include this charming, minuscule chapel.

Wrap-Up

Of course, there are even more hidden treasures for you to discover around Mexico City. Likewise, the city is surrounded by many lesser-known spots in the metro area. Would you like a Part 2 to this piece featuring other off-the-beaten-track Mexico City neighborhoods soon? Or a Gringa’s Guide to the prehispanic sites around town? Comment below!

From climbing bougainvillea in Mixcoac to draped jacaranda trees in Chimalistac, these five Mexico City neighborhoods have so much charm and history on display.

The Best Mexico City Parks to Enjoy Nature, Wilderness, & Social Distancing

If I’m craving anything during the Covid-19 pandemic, it’s nature. Living in southern Mexico City, I’m fortunate to have access to several pretty, quiet neighborhoods and smallish parks for my socially-distanced walks. But while I’m grateful to be away from downtown crowds, I’ve been sorely missing “real” wilderness. You know it when you see it: sprawling parks or forests that provide true respite from the city. Spots to curl up with a good book. Places where you can no longer hear traffic, car horns, and the omnipresent voice blaring “se compran colchones, tambores, refrigeradores…”

As we cautiously navigate the nueva normalidad (new normal), many Mexico City parks are open with precautions. Indoor restaurants and shopping centers are open as well, but frankly, you won’t find this nervous gringa there any time soon. I am, however, delighted at the reopening of larger and more wild green spaces. There, we can enjoy nature while maintaining a safe distance!

Mexico City’s green spaces are full of hidden treasures, both natural and cultural.

I’ve been wanting to write about the best Mexico City parks for quite some time, and this seemed like the perfect excuse. In the following guide, I’ll be sharing as many large, wild-ish green spaces as I could find. You won’t find small to medium parks (i.e. Parque Mexico), green plazas (Plaza Rio de Janeiro) or quite highly urbanized ones (Parque Hundido, Parque La Mexicana) in this particular guide. This isn’t because they’re not gorgeous —many of them are, and I love visiting them! Rather, I’m focusing on wilderness or semi-wild green spaces where you can take a deep breath of fresh air and socially distance stress-free. After all, we need somewhere to escape our many 2021 anxieties, if only for a day.

Section A: Accessible & Semi-Urban Green Spaces

The Bosque de Chapultepec is one of Mexico City’s most popular green spaces.

First, I’ll go through a number of large Mexico City parks that many of us can access with relative ease. These are spots I normally reach walking or using public transportation, and can currently get to on bike or foot to be extra cautious. In short, these parks are in urban or semi-urban areas you can usually get to without a car, yet their size means you can still enjoy a real escape into nature.

1) Viveros de Coyoacán

The Viveros (nurseries) de Coyoacán are one of Mexico City’s loveliest parks. They provide crucial “lungs” to the south of the city, just as Chapultepec does for the center. At 39 hectares (almost 4.2 million square feet), once you walk into the park, the surrounding noises melt away. As the name suggests, the Viveros include a large tree and plant nursery. Back in 1901, celebrated engineer and researcher Miguel Ángel de Quevedo donated a single hectare of land here to start Mexico’s first forestry nursery.

The Viveros and their many varieties of trees provide one of the most relaxing, accessible park experiences for city dwellers.

Today, the Viveros are so much more. It’s still home to many young trees that will later make their way to other parks and forests around the metro area. It also has a cluster of small, family-owned commercial nurseries on Avenida Mexico. This spot between Entrances 3 and 4 gives you the chance to purchase a dazzling variety of plants and flowers. And as for the rest of the park? The Viveros are divided by types of trees. Elegant, wide paths flow between rows of towering cedars, pines, oaks, sweetgums, and many other tree types.

This most beloved of southern Mexico City parks has become a gathering place for hobbyists, who come on the weekends to practice everything from karate to yoga to theater. Just be conscious that due to its popularity, Viveros de Coyoacán can get a bit busy. Its wide paths, however, make it fairly easy to maintain distance. Go before noon or on weekdays for fewer visitors. It’s easily accessible on bike or foot if you’re heading to the Coyoacán neighborhood, as well as from the Viveros de Coyoacán metro stop.

Hours:

6 am to 5 pm everyday. Currently, only Puerta 1 is open. (Search “Viveros de Coyoacán Puerta 1” on Google Maps to find it.)

2) Bosque de Chapultepec

Twice the size of NYC’s Central Park, the Bosque de Chapultepec is often called the “lungs” of the city.

Of course, no respectable list could leave out the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s largest and best known urban park. This multi-section park stretches across the center-west of the city, sprawling over an area twice the size of New York City’s Central Park. It includes everything from perfect picnic spots to multiple (rather green-hued) lakes, a bustling zoo to a castle, Diego Rivera mosaics and murals to truly wild, towering forests.

The second section of the Bosque de Chapultepec is just as lovely, without the crowds.

I know, I know — I need to do a post only on everything Chapultepec Forest has to offer. And I will, once all of its offerings are safely accessible and up-and-running again post-Covid. Like many Mexico City parks, the Bosque is currently operating at 30% capacity. At the moment, I strongly recommend going on a weekday if possible to avoid the crowds. If this isn’t possible, stay away from the heavily-transited vendor area. I’m also a big proponent of Section II of the Bosque, which is less crowded and has so much to offer!

Hours:

6 am to 6 pm, closed on Mondays.

3) Reserva Ecológica Pedregal de San Ángel (and UNAM Botanical Garden, once re-opened)

The UNAM (National University) Botanical Garden and adjoining ecological reserve may be my favorite Mexico City parks. (Though they’ve got plenty of stiff competition on and off this list!) I love our many forests, but there’s something special to be said for the Pedregal. This southern part of the city is comprised of volcanic bedrock that formed when the volcano Xitle erupted around 11,000 years ago. (Don’t worry, it’s dormant now.) As a result, this area is home to the Pedregal, a totally unique ecosystem. Here, cooling lava formed undulating waves of porous black rock. Many of the Pedregal’s plants and animals can only live here — this reserve is quite literally keeping them alive.

The ecological reserve and botanical garden are bursting with unique and even endemic species.

In pre-Covid times, I’d take the Insurgentes Metrobus down towards La Joya, getting off at the Centro Cultural Universitario stop. From there, it’s fairly easy to walk up the road to the botanical garden entrance and/or different parts of the large reserve. As of February 2021, however, the botanical garden itself is still closed. You should be able to access the ecological reserve from its external entrances. Please let me know if you have any issues, so I can update this guide ASAP! Even if the main gates are closed, however, you can enjoy parts of the Pedregal environment simply walking near the Centro Cultural Universitario (Campus Cultural Center) and on the tranquil road leading to the botanical garden. Both the garden and reserve are fantastic spots for birdwatching in the city.

The Pedregal and surrounding areas contain some of the best spots for birdwatching in Mexico City.

Hours:

The Reserva, located around different parts of the UNAM campus, doesn’t have hours. You can access some parts via gates, and other simply walking around the campus and cultural center. The Botanical Garden is currently closed and I will update as soon as re-opening plans announced.

4) Bosque de Tlalpan & Parque Nacional Fuentes Brotantes

If you find yourself in the south of the city, the Bosque de Tlalpan and nearby Fuentes Brotantes National Park are sprawling, verdant oases of green. Both areas are beloved by runners and picnickers alike. The Bosque de Tlalpan is a standout for me, as it’s fairly accessible even for a car-less grinxicana such as I.

These two Mexico City parks are relatively close to one another. While they have entrances near the Insurgentes Sur Metrobus and other public transport, many families also drive to the parks. Tlalpan is my particular favorite because the green space remains remarkably well-maintained. Clean, well-marked paths lead up and around the foothills. Head here even on the weekend, and you’ll find a wide variety of walks and hikes for every skill level, with plenty of places to socially distance and lose yourself in nature. Fuentes Brotantes is a bit closer to the hills of the Ajusco mountain range, and has both highly developed spots (food stands, a small lake) and wilder areas.

Image courtesy of Fuentes Brotantes de Tlalpan

Hours:

The Bosque de Tlalpan is open from 5 am to 5 pm. The only current access point is the main Camino de Santa Teresa entrance. Fuentes Brotantes National Park is open from 9 am to 6 pm. You can access it via the main entrance on Avenida de las Fuentes. Check out some of the wildlife you can find in Fuentes Brotantes here.

5) Parque Bicentenario

If you’re looking for some green space with a heavy dash of inspiring urban renewal, check out one of Mexico City’s youngest parks, the Parque Bicentenario. The story of the Bicentenario is just as interesting as the park itself. Situated in the middle of a bustling working class, semi-industrial area of Azcapotzalco in northern Mexico City, this large park began its life as a Pemex Oil Refinery! Over the years, the refinery closed. The city was faced with the challenge of what to do with the huge industrial space left behind.

In honor of Mexico’s bicentennial celebrations, leaders decided to rehabilitate the ex-refinery into the urban green space that surrounding neighborhoods desperately needed. Today, many of the Bicentenario’s trees are still young and have some growing to do. However, the park already bursts with innovative and much-loved spaces for local families, and it will only improve from here. Check out the different Mexican regional ecosystems just inside the entrance (some are closed off during the pandemic). Then explore the huge fields that stretch beyond, include a large artificial-but-pleasant lake, winding walking paths, a small museum, a skate park, and many picnic spots.

Hours:

Parque Bicentenario is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 7 AM to 6 PM. The main entrance is just across the street from the Refinería Metro stop. My only note here is that mask use wasn’t as good as in other parks. That said, the large open spaces mean you can give others a wide berth.

6) Bosque de Aragón

Located in a heavily urban, working class area of the city, the Bosque de San Juan de Aragón (the Aragon Forest) doesn’t always get the credit it’s due. Since 2015, the city has been revamping the park to restore its full natural and cultural beauty. This green space is vast and diverse, covering 162 hectares (over 17 million square ft.) of Mexico City’s east. Aragón has a storied history: it once formed part of Lake Texcoco, the large body of water upon which ancient Tenochtitlan sat. When the Spanish arrived, they built a hacienda around the area, named after Captain Blas López de Aragón.

These days, the park is popular with runners and fun-seeking families alike for its many trails and well-known zoo. Even migratory waterbirds love Aragón. Herons, ducks, and many other species flock here every year as if deep in their DNA, they still remember when this was part of Lake Texcoco. In “normal” times (pre-Covid), the park puts on many cultural activities, from music to movies.

Hours:

6 am to 6 pm; enter on the Avenida José Loreto Fabela, Colonia San Juan de Aragón. Take the same precautions you would in any large, heavily urbanized green space, avoiding deserted spots and lonely hours of morning and night.

Section B: Wilder Green Spaces

Now let’s look at some great parks that are a little more out-of-the-way. These spots are mostly around the city’s southern mountains and waterways. Here, you can get spectacular views and truly fresh air, often without the crowds. The trade-off is that having a car makes accessing these spaces much, much easier. They’re ideal for day trips, so pack a picnic lunch and get going!

1) Parque Nacional Desierto de los Leones

When I first arrived in Mexico City, I headed to Desierto de los Leones with a few friends on a whim. When we arrived after winding up and up a mountain, I couldn’t believe we were still in Mexico City. This immense, breathtaking national park covers a swath of the southern mountains. After you pass the park’s entrance (and a big pack of very fit mountain bikers), you’ll reach the exconvento, a whimsical stone monastery nestled among the pines.

No visit to Desierto de los Leones would be complete without seeing the stunning colonial monastery.

Visit the monastery (the guided tours are fascinating) and hike through the surrounding paths, which lead you to several crumbling hermitages if you follow the creepy “monk” symbol on the old-school park signage. There are plenty of places to get food and drink, as well as grills and picnic tables. Desierto de los Leones has a truly unique, fairy tale atmosphere. If you’re anything like me, you might just fall in love with the place.

The vast park is a popular spot for picnics, mountain-biking, and even horse-riding.

Hours:

The park itself is open Tuesdays through Sundays, 8 am to 5 pm, but the monastery doesn’t open until 10 am. You can take a rideshare car here…but good luck ordering one to get back, as there’s no cell coverage! For best results, drive your car or rent one, following Waze directions south and further south, with the destination “Exconvento Desierto de los Leones.” Bring petty cash for the monastery, food, and parking.

2) Parque Nacional Cumbres del Ajusco

This humungous national park covers an even larger bit of the southern mountains, this time the Sierra del Ajusco. Ajusco comes from an indigenous Nahuatl word meaning roughly “the place of flowers, from which water springs”. The indigenous peoples of the area knew this area’s value long ago: the Ajusco mountain range is the source for much of Mexico City’s water.

You can see the iconic Pico de Águila, Mexico City’s highest peak, from many spots in the Ajusco.

Today, many indigenous people continue to call the Ajusco home, dedicating their communities to its preservation. One such effort is the Parque Ejidal San Nicolás Totolapan, the best-known communally owned park in the Ajusco. Covering 2300 hectares (8.8 square miles) of forested mountain, the park charges a small cash fee ($30 pesos the last I’ve seen) to enter. As in many of the area’s green spaces, it can get crowded around the entrance on the weekends, especially around the food and diversion areas. Hike up the mountain paths for both peace and a safer, socially distanced experience.

Hours:

Enter the Parque Ejidal San Nicolás Totolapan from 8 am to 6 am. It’s at Km 11, Picacho-Ajusco 5, Panoramica, but just put its name in a navigation app for a fairly easy trip up, up, and up! A car or round-trip taxi will save you a lot of stress here.

3) Xochimilco’s Wild Side

Many know Xochimilco for its touristy, crowded canals packed with colorful trajinera boats, booze, and mariachis. That’s not ideal for worriers like me in these pandemic times — although I feel deeply for all those who work in tourism there and have had to seek alternatives in 2020 and 2021. But Xochimilco is much more than chelas and La Llorona shows.

Image courtesy of the Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco, once of the most unique Mexico City parks.

In reality, it’s a vast, endangered wetland that provides a crucial home for endemic species and a livelihood for indigenous communities. When you’re ready for something very different from the pine and oyamel-covered mountains, drive or ride down to the Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco, or even the peripheral Bosque de Nativitas, for a taste of this singular ecosystem. In the former, you’ll discover canals and chinampas (agricultural islands), herons and ajolotes, ancient traditions and sunrise views of the volcanoes.

Hours:

9 am to 6 am, enter the Parque Ecológico (Ecological Park) at Periférico Oriente #1 in Colonia Ciénega Grande. In addition, several tour providers offer small-group visits to the park with Covid-19 precautions, including Aztec Explorers.

4) Los Dinamos & La Marquesa

For a beautiful natural experience within the city, you barely need to go past Six Flags before you reach Los Dinamos. Quite a bit further afield, La Marquesa is just outside the city in Estado de Mexico (Mexico State). I grouped these two parks together not because they’re right next to each other, but because they occupy similar places in the hearts and minds of many chilangos. Both have a big jumble of nice, natural green spaces and very family-oriented, crowded areas for food, games, and other outdoor activities. You can even fish for trout and eat it for lunch, though it will come from a very crowded pond that makes it basically impossible not to catch a fish!

My main reservation in recommending Los Dinamos and La Marquesa is that they can get quite crowded on the weekends. But like so many areas on this list, if you get off the beaten track and explore either parks’ trails, chances are you’ll leave the crowds behind.

Hours:

Los Dinamos is open from 6 am to 6:30 pm, while you can visit La Marquesa from 7 am to 7 pm. You can reach either quite easily by car by entering their names into Waze; bring cash for parking and other expenses. Be safe, don’t wander into isolated areas alone, and try not to bring many valuables.

Mexico City is packed with beautiful green spaces, like Section II of the Bosque de Chapultepec (shown here).

At the end of the day (or rather the post), keep in mind that this is still just a small cross-section of Mexico City’s many outstanding green spaces! This article kept getting longer, and at some point I have to limit my endless enthusiasm. That doesn’t mean, however, that you shouldn’t check out areas like the Bosque de Tlahuac, Parque Tezozómoc, Parque Nacional Cerro de la Estrella, and the slightly smaller parks I mentioned in the intro!

Nevertheless, I tried to focus on the parks that have brought me the most peace and joy during my years in Mexico City. Most of all, these are areas where you can socially distance with relative ease, expect to see others with masks, and in several cases, receive hand sanitizer and a temperature check at the entrance. Now more than ever, it’s important to stay safe in and out of our beloved green spaces.

Movie Lover’s Guide to the Best Mexican Films

The coronavirus pandemic and self-isolation are drastically changing the very fabric of society, from the way we work to what we do in our free time. For many of us, this means passing time indoors reading, exploring creative pursuits… and after that, lots and lots of streaming. In my case, I’ve been watching a hodgepodge of crime shows, old school comedies, and of course, beloved Mexican films.

More than just entertainment, our newfound watch time is an opportunity to learn about new places and cultures — to discover new directors and actors, countries and languages. With this in mind, I’ve assembled a few of my favorite Mexican films for your viewing pleasure! No list could ever capture the rich diversity of Mexican movies over the decades. Rather, this is a small sampling to pique your interest and give you a wide-ranging view on life and cinema here.

1. Y Tu Mamá También (And Your Mother Too)

*Image courtesy of 20th Century Fox/FlixWatch.*

Before Roma, before Gravity, before the Oscars and international renown, Alfonso Cuarón was a young Mexican filmmaker who wanted to capture a slice of life in his country. The result of his efforts was Y Tu Mamá También, the ultimate Mexican road trip movie and one of my all-time favorite films.

The movie follows Julio (middle-class) and Tenoch (upper-class), two Mexico City teen boys. They invite a beautiful Spanish woman, Luisa, on a road trip to the untouched beaches of Oaxaca. The spontaneous trip will bring unintended consequences for the trio. Meanwhile, Y Tu Mamá También propelled actors Diego Luna and Gael García Bernal to stardom and made a name for the young director.

With its contemporary soundtrack, heavy use of Chilango slang, and deep-seated class, political, and sexual tensions, the movie set the standard for a new era of Mexican films. It’s a deceptively simple movie. Yet Julio, Tenoch, and Luisa’s journey across Mexico expresses many subtle truths about both the country’s beauty and its sharp, cruel divisions. Y Tu Mamá También sketches Mexico at the turn of the 21st century. It depicts a rapidly changing society reeling from NAFTA’s transformative economic effects, yet still relatively calm before the start of the drug war.

Y Tu Mamá También is available on Netflix US and the Criterion Collection.

2. La Jaula de Oro (The Golden Dream*)

A starkly different kind of “road” movie. This little-known film from director Diego Quemada-Díez follows another trio, these young people moving across Mexico with much higher stakes. Juan, Sara, and Samuel are Central American preteens who leave home with a few belongings — seemingly without telling family. They head north, crossing into Mexico with the hope of reaching a better life in the United States.

Once in southern Mexico, they begrudgingly allow Chauk, an indigenous Tzotzil Mayan boy, to join their group. Together, the kids head north on la Bestia, the dangerous cargo trains that many migrants ride. This isn’t the first time this journey has been placed on film. However, La Jaula de Oro is by far the most beautiful and heart-wrenching depiction. These young amateur actors convey the innocence and hope, love and realism of young migrants who have to grow up far too quickly. The film immerses you in their world: where adolescent jealousies and a youthful sense of adventure coexist with the nagging, very real fear of assault, rape, kidnapping, and detainment.

La Jaula de Oro is available to rent on YouTube.

*A more accurate translation of the original Spanish title is “The Golden Cage,” however, the film’s creators chose the English title “The Golden Dream.”

3. Como Agua para Chocolate (Like Water for Chocolate)

*Image courtesy of The University of Texas at Austin.*

For a magical realist escape from reality, Like Water for Chocolate is a fun and fantastical romp through Revolution-era Mexico. The film is based on the famous book by Laura Esquivel. Both book and movie follow a Northern Mexican family through trials of love and loyalty during the 1910s and beyond. The action is centered around food, as the protagonist is a jilted woman who pours all her repressed desires and feelings into elaborate meals. The movie will have your mouth watering for baroque Mexican dishes. (Enjoy them for real at El Cardenal once self-isolation ends!) It’s a little fluffy and melodramatic — and a hell of a lot of fun.

Like Water for Chocolate is available to rent on Amazon Prime.

4. Rojo Amanecer (Red Dawn)

*Image courtesy of La Izquierda Diario.*

Rojo Amanecer is no escapist flick. On the contrary, it’s one of the most important Mexican films in history, depicting a moment shrouded in darkness and controversy. When director Jorge Fons decided to make a film about the 1968 Tlatelolco Massacre, he was risking his own reputation and career. It takes place over the course of one infamous day. On October 2, 1968, the Mexican army and paramilitaries opened fire on student protesters and killed hundreds in Tlatelolco Square. This occurred just 10 days before the Mexico City Olympics.

The film follows a middle-class Mexican family living in an apartment on Tlatelolco Square. As the day begins, the family bickers and goes about their daily routines. By nightfall, all of them have witnessed a brutal, state-sponsored mass killing. Their ordinary domestic life has been shattered, and more bloodshed is to come before the dawn.

Despite filming Rojo Amanecer two decades after the massacre itself, Fons still faced government censorship that nearly derailed the project. He shot the movie secretly in a warehouse, unable to show the full extent of the day’s violence. As a result, the film takes place entirely in the family’s apartment. We don’t see the massacre and chaos in the plaza itself. Instead, we see only the horrified reactions of the family witnessing the killing from their high-rise window. The effect is powerful. We feel their fear, the oppressive claustrophobia as they are trapped inside, phone lines and electricity cut.

One family’s apartment becomes a microcosm of Mexican society on that fateful day, reflecting the paralysis and bitter conflict that ensued. The result is an important, necessary, and difficult entry into the lexicon of Mexican films.

Rojo Amanecer is available on Facebook here.

5. Roma

Roma came out to so much fanfare in 2018, from Oscar nominations (and wins) to feverish praise from Mexican and international critics. So when I watched it, my expectations were already sky high. As a result, I couldn’t help but feel a tiny bit let down by the much-hyped film. After all, almost no movie could live up to such high praise!

While Roma isn’t my favorite Mexican film, it is very well done, and certainly worth a watch. The movie is a beautifully-shot exploration of the life of Cleo, a domestic worker in 1970s Mexico City. Roma follows her life during a tumultuous period for Cleo, the family she works for, and the city itself. Set in black and white, the film looks back at director Alfonso Cuarón’s own childhood through the eyes of his beloved nanny (a fictionalized version of her, anyway).

My advice is to go into the film without expectations, and without reading reviews beforehand. Watch with subtitles — in Spanish, ideally. (The movie features a lot of obscure Mexico City slang terms and can be hard to follow for non-native speakers.) Finally, appreciate Roma‘s sensory details. No film captures the sounds of Mexico City better than this one. The street musicians, the trash-collector’s bell, the camotero’s whistle, the melodic and chaotic cacophony. For this alone, the film is worth a watch (and listen).

Roma is available to stream on Netflix.

6. Miss Bala

This Mexican thriller from Gerardo Naranjo is unsettlingly, ominously quiet. We’re used to fast-paced Hollywood action movies with slick dialogue and frequent explosions. Miss Bala, however, is more of an inaction movie. It makes the most of actress Stephanie Sigman’s expressive face as she tries to survive an impossible situation through passivity and acquiescence. Most rational people would probably have done the same.

There is no hero in Miss Bala. It’s a movie about the ways Mexico’s problem with organized crime and violence takes away ordinary peoples’ agency and voice. All of this is channelled through Laura Guerrero (Sigman), a young beauty pageant contestant who becomes unwittingly wrapped up in Northern Mexico’s organized crime. The film doesn’t provide easy answers or a satisfying resolution. Instead, it focuses on the gray areas between criminal and civilian, government and cartel, that arise with a weak and corrupt state. These shadows make for fascinating, thought-provoking film.

Miss Bala is available to rent on Amazon Prime. Moreover, be sure not to confuse it with the widely-derided 2019 Hollywood remake.

7. María Candelaria

This 1944 film is the oldest on the list, hearkening back to Mexico’s Golden Age of Cinema. María Candelaria takes place in Xochimilco. (This agricultural canal region of Southern Mexico City is so iconic, it’s been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.) Legendary Mexican actor and director Emilio “El Indio” Fernández filmed in Xochimilco itself. As a result, the area really becomes its own vital character.

The film follows María Candelaria, a young woman (played by beloved actress Dolores del Río) who lives on a flower-covered chinampa (island farm) in 1909. The setting certainly seems idyllic, almost dreamlike. But María’s mother was a prostitute, and the villagers treat María and her fiancé as pariahs. When a renowned painter becomes obsessed with María’s beauty, a tragic course of events is set into action.

Nowadays, Xochimilco is a part of Mexico City, its famous canals and chinampas much diminished. But in the 1940s, the area was still pristine, small villages sitting far outside the big city. The location serves as a symbol for all of rural Mexico right before the violent, destructive Revolution and 20th Century transformations. With spectacular music, setting, and cinematography, the film is a well-deserved giant in Mexican film history.

Watch María Candelaria on Facebook here.

8. Güeros

Imagine an old school road movie — filmed in black and white, nostalgic soundtrack, friends on an epic quest as they drive for hours down endless roads. Both Mexico and the U.S. have their fair share of road movies, with plenty of beautiful landscapes and desolates highways to film on either side of the border. Güeros takes this age-old movie formula, and twists it. Here, the kids set off on their road trip…and basically never leave Mexico City.

This “urban” road movie follows a group of young students navigate the never-ending streets, traffic, slums and highways and even farms of Mexico City metro area. A troubled tween is sent from coastal Veracruz to the capital to stay with his older brother in the capital. After they both become obsessed with finding an old, obscure Mexican rock-and-roll star, this improbable quest sends them all through the city. Above all, it’s a joy to watch them meander through the UNAM (National Autonomous University), Chapultepec Forest, the center, even Texcoco. The Mexican film is a sweet and pensive rumination on the passionate curiosity of youth, exploring the city as its own self-contained universe.

You can rent Güeros on YouTube.

Mexican Films: Honorable Mentions

There are several Mexican films that for whatever reason, I 1) Just didn’t connect with personally and found hard to watch, or 2) Haven’t had time to watch fully yet, but come highly recommended by friends and colleagues. These are those films.

Los Olvidados (The Young and the Damned):

Firstly, this midcentury classic by Luis Buñuel. Los Olvidados is considered as one of the only films in history to unflinchingly depict young, troubled delinquents. It is a sad, often brutal film to watch, but a fascinating and important look at rough young lives on the outskirts of Mexico City. It’s become part of the fabric and historic and 20th Century Mexican films.

Amores Perros:

Secondly comes Amores Perros, a surprisingly hard-to-watch popular film. Everyone loves this fast-paced early movie that subsequently propelled director Alejandro González Iñárritu into the spotlight. It traces several storylines around the capital city, exposing fault lines of class and identity. On the other hand, I just can’t stomach its depiction of dogfights and other suffering dogs…and that’s the whole theme of the movie.

Canoa:

This film depicts a horrific real-life event. In documentary style, it follows a group of students who became the victims of anti-communist fervor during a hiking trip. Canoa depicts the heady atmosphere of political fear and repression in 1970s Mexico. It’s simply not in the main list above because, well, I still need to see it!

Museo:

This is the second film from Alonso Ruizpalacios, director of Güeros. While it didn’t receive as much critical acclaim as his first film, Museo was praised for its unique style. The movie retells a stranger-than-fiction heist from the ’80s. Then, a couple of slacker students decided to rob hundreds of priceless Prehispanic artifacts from the National Anthropology Museum. Improbably, they succeeded.

In short, Mexico has been home to an incredibly rich, diverse film industry since the days of silent movies. Because of this, keep in mind that this guide is only a small taste of Mexican cinema heritage. Finally, write the Gringa’s Guide a message on Facebook with your recommendations on what else to watch!

Two Small Notes:

Walking in the Footsteps of Frida, Diego, & Trotsky

*Important Advice*: How to Visit the Frida Kahlo Museum Stress-Free

More to See in Northern Coyoacán: The León Trotsky Museum

Getting There

Detours

Exploring Central Coyoacán: Markets, Street Food, and Ancient History

What to see in Downtown Coyoacán: Place of the Coyotes

Age-Old (Explosive) History and Coyohuaca Culture

Coyoacán’s Ghosts, from Spanish Monks to Revolutionary Soldiers

A Historical Eye-Spy: Stories Stretching Out in Every Direction

Getting There

Where to Eat

Detours

Final Thoughts

Social Class/Political Identities

Fresa

Fifí

Chairo

Naco/Ñero

Buchón

Nini

Chavorruco

Mirrey

Güero

Mexico City Slang Coming from Indigenous Languages

Tocayo/Tocaya

Cuate

Tianguis

Papalote

Popote

Miscellaneous Mexico City Slang Words That Amuse Me

Chin

Carnal

Lana

Inventada

1) La Ciudadela and City Markets

2) Bazaars

3) Museum Gift Shops

4) FONART Stores & Fairs

5) Markets in Nearby Pueblos Mágicos

6) Don’t-Miss Spots for Edible Delights

FYI: How to Send a Gift Package To Family Back Home

Have a wonderful holiday season!

Marvelous Pueblos Mágicos of Mexico State

1) Valle de Bravo

Valle de Bravo Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

2) Tepotzotlán

Tepotzotlán Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

3) Metepec

Metepec Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Unforgettable Pueblos Mágicos of Morelos

4) Tepoztlán

Tepoztlán Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

5) Tlayacapan

Tlayacapan Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

The Silvery Jewel of Guerrero State

6) Taxco

Taxco Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Puebla’s Accessible Stunners

7) Cholula

Cholula Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

8) Atlixco

Atlixco Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Quaint Querétaro State

9) Tequisquiapan

Tequisquiapan Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

10) Peña de Bernal

Peña de Bernal Must-Dos:

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Mountainous Gems of Hidalgo

Important Advice: How to Visit the Frida Kahlo Museum Stress-Free