Mountain Peaks and Mysticism in San Cristóbal de las Casas

Few cities capture your imagination as quickly as San Cristóbal de las Casas. This mountain hamlet has remained in the world’s eye since Zapatista revolutionaries briefly seized it in 1994. But these days, far from a revolutionary hotbed, San Cristóbal is a bohemian oasis where quirky expats live alongside locals, many of Mayan ancestry.

The magic of the town’s setting is undeniable — and you probably already know how much I love Mexican mountain towns by now. Cobblestone colonial streets slope up and down the hills, while green mountains stretch out in every direction. Likewise, San Cristóbal’s rich indigenous cultural blend is just as responsible for its enduring charm. Here, I’ve collected my favorite experiences in and around town. From food to textiles, nature to religious practices, these encapsulate what I love about San Cristóbal.

1. Overwhelm Your Senses at the San Cristóbal Municipal Market

Firstly, there’s no better way to start out your day than San Cristóbal’s sprawling municipal market. All around the market’s edges are tamale vendors, their tall metal canisters steaming. Try a classic Chiapas breakfast: a tamal de chipilín, corn mixed with fragrant wild herbs and chicken, steamed in banana leaves. It’s one of the most delicious tamales I’ve tried anywhere in the country!

But there’s much more to the market than tamales. San Cristóbal is a meeting point for the dozens of Mayan villages that dot the countryside around town. Many days, villagers come down the mountain to buy and sell their wares. As a result, the market is incredibly vibrant. Wild turkeys are sold alongside regional herbs and chiles, while villagers wearing their town’s distinct clothing style (black sheeps’ wool skirts and ponchos for Chamulans, brightly embroidered flowers for Zinacantans) and haggle for goods. It’s an unforgettable, immersive slice of highland Mayan culture.

2. Sip on a Chiapanecan Coffee at Carajillo

After that, your energy may have started to flag. Luckily, there’s a simple solution: some of Mexico’s best coffee! The mountains of Chiapas are home to hundreds of small family farms producing rich, earthy café. While there are many places to taste and try coffee in San Cristóbal, Carajillo Café is singularly beloved by visitors — for good reason.

This lovely café sources their organic coffee straight from small farmers in the surrounding hills, roasting it in-house. I loved the balanced medium blend, but Carajillo’s knowledgable staff will help find something perfect for your taste. It’s especially fun to order coffee served in their Japanese siphon coffee-maker! They’ll prepare it in front of you in this funky contraption, which looks straight out of a laboratory, explaining the unique process! While I can’t deny Carajillo’s hipster-ness, it was all worth it for the best cup of coffee I’ve had in Mexico. Fruity, strong, and even chocolatey… I guarantee you’ll want to buy beans to bring home.

3. Delve into the World of Mayan Textiles

The cobblestone streets of San Cristóbal are filled with color, thanks to the region’s vibrant, diverse textile traditions. The common thread (pun intended, sorry) behind this explosion of pattern and texture is Mayan culture. This indigenous heritage reaches from the tropical Yucatan Peninsula all the way to these cool, cloudy mountains.

The textiles’ best introduction is found in the colonial Santo Domingo Church, home to the Mayan Textile Center. This stunning museum is small enough to visit in an hour or two, but jam-packed with clothing and textiles from all over the Mayan world — from Chiapas to Guatemala.

Mayan textiles, however, aren’t confined to museums. In fact, they’re a vital part of everyday life for many in and around San Cristóbal. Zinacantán, a popular textile-producing village nearby, is home to detailed flower embroidery and the woven chal, a poncho-like garment work over the arms and shoulders. Take a taxi or combi there from San Cristóbal to visit artisans in their homes. In Zinacantán, you can learn about their complex work, supporting it with a worthwhile purchase.

4. Hike Amongst Wild Orchids and Mountain Songbirds

Just outside San Cristóbal (up a big hill, FYI), the Orquideas Moxviquil is an oasis of natural beauty and calm. This remarkable orchid reserve was founded to save many of the endangered species in Chiapas’s forests and jungles. You can hike through the hilly woods with a guide, spotting wild orchids and many endemic bird species. The main attraction is the garden, with both outdoor grounds and two fantastical greenhouses that look like hobbit houses. They hold hundreds of species of orchids — the sheer diversity of shapes, colors, and sizes is mind-boggling. It’s both a worthwhile cause to support and a stunning place to spend an afternoon!

5. Discover Highland Mysticism in San Juan Chamula

San Cristóbal and the villages that surround it are places of syncretism, blending indigenous Mayan culture with outside influences. In the town of San Juan Chamula, for instance, this fascinating cultural mixing is made manifest at the parish church.

Take a quick combi or taxi from near the municipal market to Chamula, as locals call it. You can’t miss the small, lovely church in the main square, gleaming with bright turquoise detailing. Once you’re inside, you’ll enter a wholly unique world of religious practice. Pine needles carpet the floor, where Chamulan families drink carbonated beverages, pray, and sometimes sacrifice animals such as chickens as a part of their religious practice. It’s a beautiful, spiritual experience, and I feel incredibly lucky to have been able to visit. In order to respect the community’s wishes, make sure not to take any pictures or video inside the church.

7. Explore Mexico’s Grand Canyon: Sumidero

Chiapas is a land of contrasts. San Cristóbal is perched high in the mountains, with a crisp and even chilly climate. Here, spring rains can fill the cobblestone streets with water in the afternoons. But start down towards the Sumidero Canyon, and things change drastically within a dozen miles. About an hour from San Cristóbal, the Sumidero Canyon is an iconic symbol of Mexico’s dramatic natural beauty.

Sumidero couldn’t be more different from San Cristóbal: here, you’ll descend into the tropics. Temperatures and humidity can be very high (bring lots of water, sunscreen, and a hat) in this monumental ravine, which formed around the same time as the Grand Canyon. Take a boat tour into its depths to see the canyon’s majestic walls, river, and even spider monkeys! You can take a tour from one of the many providers in San Cristóbal.

8. Learn About Ancient Archaeology at Casa Na Bolom

Before you leave San Cristóbal, head up one of its many cobblestone hills to visit Casa Na Bolom, the House of the Jaguar. This charming colonial house was the longtime home of Frans and Gertrude Blom, a Danish and Swiss-German couple who dedicated their life to unearthing the rich Mayan archaeological sites of Chiapas. The house is like a mysterious, Indiana Jones-esque treasure trove. It’s teeming with artifacts, dusty books, and exploring equipment that will transport you to a fascinating time in Chiapas history.

Trip Tips for San Cristóbal de las Casas:

Be prepared for all weather conditions:

Between my arrival at the nearest airport in Tuxtla (lowlands) and my climb up to San Cristóbal in a combi, I went from about 100 degrees Fahrenheit to 60! The highland climate can be rainy at times, and quite chilly at night, so come prepared for these contrasts. Definitely bring an umbrella and supportive walking shoes — hiking boots would be even better.

Stick to bottled water:

I usually brush my teeth with local tap water in Mexico, but for some reason, I decided to use bottled water while in San Cristóbal. Later, many friends and acquaintances told me they’d gotten stomach sicknesses while in town, most likely from tap water. My instincts served me well in this case! On the other hand, I ate quite a bit of street food without any issue.

Book Your Tours in Town:

For excursions like Chamula, Zinacantán, and the Sumidero Canyon, don’t worry about booking beforehand. San Cristóbal is teeming with pretty inexpensive tour providers. Just look for the little storefronts advertising tours a day or two before you want to go, and shop around for the best price.

To sum up, San Cristóbal has become a haven for people from around the world, drawn to its natural and arquitectural beauty, artsy feel, and singular culture. This was just a small taste of what you could do in a long weekend in the city — Chiapas has so much to offer!