Five Underrated Mexico City Neighborhoods You Need to Visit

All too often, foreign visitors to the capital are directed to the same Mexico City neighborhoods. From Roma to Condesa, Coyoacán to Polanco, there’s nothing wrong with these beautiful areas of the metropolis, of course. This comfort zone might be easy, but hanging around only these well-heeled colonias can have downsides. You might end up surrounded by fellow foreigners, feeling a bit isolated from the rest of the city, culture, and language — not to mention having to deal with these areas’ tourist-oriented prices.

As a result, exploring some of Mexico City’s more off-the-beaten-track neighborhoods can be profoundly rewarding. All of the areas I’m sharing here are personal favorites that not only lie outside of the tourist bubble, but also have a stunning sense of history, from colonial Nueva España to the rapid growth and conflict of the 20th Century mega-city. Whether you’re a recent transplant to Mexico City or a future visitor, I hope you fall in love with one of these spots. I’m certainly enamored with all five.

1) Chimalistac

I hesitated to put this Mexico City neighborhood on the list at all, let alone at the very top. Why? Because it’s my favorite. Cobblestone-lined Chimalistac, crawling with colonial ghosts and bougainvillea, is one of the most peaceful, beautiful neighborhoods in the southern half of the city. The last thing I want is for hordes of tourists to flock here, so let’s keep this little secret between you and me.

Chimalistac sits right beneath Coyoacán and east of San Ángel, but receives a fraction of the visitors of these popular spots. Above all, this is because there’s not much to “do” here: the all-residential area has almost no restaurants or shops to entertain the easily distracted. So why go? Simply put, Chimalistac is one of the loveliest places — in the world, in my rather biased opinion — for a long stroll. Every idyllic street harbors colonial homes and thoughtful gardens, stone fountains and tiny, ancient chapels.

History

Like many of the areas on this list, Chimalistac was once an indigenous community (connected with Coyoacán) that paid tribute to the Aztec empire just north. Under Spanish rule, the neighborhood was settled by the barefoot Carmelite religious order, before becoming a more traditional family neighborhood. Today, you can pass over the same footbridge the monks once took to cross the Magdalena River — the water is gone though, replaced by Paseo del Río avenue. Enter the neighborhood from pretty Parque de la Bombilla, and after that, just wander aimlessly through the alleyways. Every time, I discover something new and delightful.

Eat at:

La Balance, a lovely little café and bakery nestled at the start of the neighborhood. Or cross Insurgentes Sur to San Angel, and eat at the famous (and deservedly so) El Cardenal.

Must-See:

The whole neighborhood during jacaranda bloom season (February-April), especially the area near the Casa de California. After that, don’t miss La Capilla de los Secretos (the Chapel of Secrets) in the center of a cobblestone intersection.

2) Tlalpan

Many chilangos (Mexico City residents) will tell you that Tlalpan is like Coyoacán was 20 or 30 years ago. Before Coyoacán, famed home to Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky, attracted tourists from around the city and world, it was a quietly bohemian neighborhood, still carrying vestiges of the outlying village it once was.

I agree with my chilango friends: today’s Tlalpan has much of that old world charm, without the crowds or souvenir hawkers. That said, the neighborhood isn’t some copy of Coyoacán, but a storied colonia with its own vibrant heritage. While Tlalpan is a sprawling delegation of Mexico City, I’m referring here primarily to the historic center of the area. But it’s absolutely worth visiting Cuicuilco just outside the center as well — it’s the oldest archaeological site in the city!

History

Tlalpan means roughly “on solid ground,” and while the city has constantly transformed around it, in the historic center of the neighborhood you will find that sense of solidity and continuity through time. Many indigenous communities have lived in the area through the centuries, including on the site of historic Tlalpan. Like so much of Mexico City, however, the most visible vestiges of the past come from the colonial and postcolonial eras. Wander through Tlalpan’s central plaza and encounter artisans, ice cream shops, and a lovely old town hall lined with murals. The real joy of Tlalpan is simply callejoneando: walking through the plaza and side streets, picking up a paleta here and some tacos there. In short, it’s a wonderful way to spend a Sunday.

Eat at:

Barra Alipus or the neighborhood market (in a brick building just behind the town hall)

Must-See:

Casa de la Cultura “Frisaac” and the Museo del Tiempo

3) Santa María la Ribera

Now let’s head north of the city center to another of my favorite Mexico City neighborhoods. Santa María la Ribera is a lively, traditional colonia famed for its central plaza, the Alameda. Not to be confused with the larger Alameda park downtown, Santa María’s tree-lined plaza is home to the Kiosko Morisco. This architectural marvel is truly a Mexico City hidden treasure. Architect José Ramón Ibarrola built the Moorish-inspired structure for the World Exposition in New Orleans in 1884. After the festivities, though, the government brought it all the way to Mexico City, where the mesmerizing Kiosko has now sat, surrounded by jacaranda trees and street life, for over a century.

Santa María la Ribera, however, is much more than just its spectacular Kiosko. Diverse architecture lines the Alameda, from the neoclassical Museo de Geología to midcentury corners. Wander out from this central point, and you’ll find charming cafés and traditional neighborhood tianguis (temporary markets) throughout the neighborhood. Come on the weekend for a profusion of food, music, and artisanry all around the plaza. Head down to the Museo del Chopo on the southern edge of the neighborhood for quirky exhibitions. (Note: the museum hasn’t yet reopened at this point in the pandemic, but you can still enjoy its steampunk-esque architecture!) The stunning modernist Biblioteca Vasconcelos library is very nearby, in Buenavista.

History

Inaugurated in 1861, Santa María la Ribera was Mexico City’s first formalized, planned “neighborhood.” In the early 20th Century, rich chilango barons came here to escape the city and its pandemics of old (we’re talking Yellow Fever, not Covid-19). The area slowly opened up to working-class families as the rich left for newer developments, especially after the 1985 earthquake. If you’ve seen the film Roma, the neighborhood’s Alameda was also a part of the historical “Halconazo” massacre featured in the movie.

Today, Santa María la Ribera is a fascinating jumble. Blue collar families live side-by-side with young artists, academics who’ve been here for decades, feminist punks, and yes, a smattering of hipsters.

Eat at:

Kolobok, the best (and almost only) Russian restaurant in Mexico City

Must-See:

The Kiosko Morisco

4) Mixcoac

During the worst moments of the pandemic, when even catching a cab seemed risky, I was eternally grateful for my close proximity to a colonial slice of Mixcoac. Within walking distance of my home, I’d first cross busy, modern Insurgentes Avenue and be transported to another era. Then, the sounds of the metropolis quickly faded away, and I was left in peace to wander through the cobblestone streets of Mixcoac. It’s truly one-of-a-kind amongst Mexico City neighborhoods.

History

Mixcoac means “place of worship of the cloud serpent” in indigenous Nahuatl. In fact, you can visit a small but interesting archaeological site in the neighborhood to learn more about its Prehispanic past. Most of what you see in the historic section of Mixcoac, though, comes from the 18th and 19th Centuries. During this era, it was a separate town outside the city. Moneyed chilangos built their summer homes here, and slowly roads and streetcars connected it to Mexico City until the megapolis swallowed Mixcoac whole.

You’ll find many vestiges of the past in Insurgentes Mixcoac, the traditional part of the neighborhood. For a tranquil afternoon stroll, start at the Parroquia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, a lovely red parish church. From there, head north past the Universidad Panamericana buildings via Augusto Rodin Street. You’ll soon arrive at Plaza Gómez Farías, where another charming church and square await. Explore the surrounding streets or head to Parque Hundido to finish your walk. This “sunken” park was once the site of a brick factory — built on the factory’s dug-out foundations, it sits several meters below street level.

Eat at:

Cal & Maíz, a restaurant dedicated to bringing back native Mexican forms of maize, as well as other indigenous ingredients.

Must-See:

Plaza Gómez Farías on Sunday, so you can buy delicious pastries from the nuns outside their convent on the western edge of the plaza.

5) Azcapotzalco

Of all the lovely, historic Mexico City neighborhoods on this list, I arrived at Azcapotzalco last. Due to its northerly location and industrial surroundings, this neighborhood is often overlooked. Fortunately, my dear friend Gina works here, and when I finally took her up on a long-standing invitation to visit the area, I was delighted by what I found.

If you search amidst the bustle of modern Azcapotzalco, you’ll find plenty of traces of its fascinating past. Surrounding by busy shopping streets and hawkers, the neighborhood’s Zócalo (central plaza) is an oasis of calm. Neighbors chat as they walk under arching jacaranda trees, curving around a lovely pink gazebo in the center. The sprawling Catedral de los Santos Apóstoles Felipe y Santiago Church lies along one side of the plaza — I highly recommend exploring its tree-covered grounds and peaceful chapels. From this central spot, you can also reach the busy Mercado de Azcapotzalco, which brims with fresh produce, chiles, homemade mole sauces, and even natural healers, their stands piled high with aloe vera spines and dried herbs. (Ojo: The market can get crowded and mask use, while decent, is not omnipresent. This may be a better spot to visit post-pandemic.) In general, I recommend visiting Azcapotzalco during non-peak times, to avoid busy streets.

History

Azcapotzalco is legendary — in more ways than one. The Aztecs and other Nahuatl cultures called the area “the place of the ants,” a name derived from an ancient legend. They say that the God Quetzalcóatl, disguised as an ant, stole corn from the heavens and brought this essential Mexican food to mere mortals. Azcapotzalco has always held an important place in the city, both metaphorically and physically. It’s served as a crucial link between indigenous civilizations, a colonial center, and presently, a vibrant hub where tradition and industry live side by side.

Eat at:

La Conchería, a bakery lauded city-wide for its delectable and creative concha pastries

Must-See:

The Catedral de los Santos Apóstoles Felipe y Santiago

Wrap-Up

Of course, there are even more hidden treasures for you to discover around Mexico City. Likewise, the city is surrounded by many lesser-known spots in the metro area. Would you like a Part 2 to this piece featuring other off-the-beaten-track Mexico City neighborhoods soon? Or a Gringa’s Guide to the prehispanic sites around town? Comment below!