Mexico City Escapes: 13 Spellbinding Small Towns

Mexico City is rife with charming old neighborhoods and bustling markets — that’s what I love most about living here, after all. Whether I’m in the mood for untouched nature or cobblestone alleyways, there’s something right here in the city. That said, another favorite aspect of the metropolis is just how easily I can leave it, heading out into the unknown whenever it strikes my fancy. Everyone needs a breather from the liveliness (and yes, sometimes chaos) of the big city every now and then, even this Mexico City-obsessed gringa! For me, this often means visiting a pueblo mágico.

Mexico’s beloved *pueblos mágicos* (magic towns) provide a much-needed respite from city life.

Especially as a car-less gringa, I’m spoiled by Mexico’s fantastic long-distance bus system. While in my native U.S., Greyhounds and the like don’t have a stellar reputation, here I can pop into the city’s enormous terminals and hitch a ride nearly anywhere in the country. If you stick with reputable companies like ADO, Futura, and ETN, you’ll typically be riding with style, cleanliness, and comfort. This top-notch system makes it easy to enjoy one of my favorite hobbies: puebleando. This very Mexican verb is a catch-all term for those of us who love exploring Mexico’s hundreds of enchanting pueblos mágicos — “magic” towns the government celebrates for their preserved heritage and beauty.

These diverse *pueblos mágicos* offer something for everyone — from honeymooners to hardcore mountaineers.

Some Mexican pueblos mágicos are far-flung and isolated, but you can reach plenty of them within a few hours of downtown. Whether you’re in the mood for a romantic getaway or active day trip, here’s a guide to my favorite towns and villages surrounding Mexico City! Note that the 1-13 ranking has nothing to do with my preference of one over another — they’re organized by state.

Marvelous Pueblos Mágicos of Mexico State

1) Valle de Bravo

Valle de Bravo’s glimmering reservoir is an important source of water for Mexico City and beyond.

Mexico City’s rich and/or famous flock to this mountainous magic town for the lake views and luxurious living. That doesn’t mean, however, that Valle de Bravo can’t be an accessible, affordable destination for the rest of us. This famed pueblo mágico lies just under two hours from the capital, making it a favorite weekend retreat for many chilangos. Visit during the week, though, and the Sunday crowds give way to a peaceful small town atmosphere.

Valle de Bravo is a steep village spread around a large, attractive reservoir, making for postcard views as you walk down towards the water. The white-washed facades and cobblestone streets are idyllic. Behind the traditional image of the town lies a lot of money these days, meaning a humble basket shop might sit between a fancy boutique and an elegant hotel. But there’s still lots of small town charm in Valle de Bravo — especially once you venture off the beaten track.

Beneath the surface of Valle de Bravo’s glitzy, tourist-oriented vibe lies a traditional small town. Go during the week for a peaceful atmosphere and lovely local markets.

Valle de Bravo Must-Dos:

Take a boat ride (I recommend one of the larger cruisers for the seasick) across the valley reservoir. This is especially stunning at sunset.
Trek up to the main plaza and eat lake trout at one of the lovely, simple restaurants with balconies overlooking the parish church and flowering trees.
Stay the night in one of Valle’s many unique AirBnB rooms or cabins, where you get the chance to watch sunrise and sunset. I enjoyed this one for a birthday a few years ago!
If you’re there between November and March, book a tour to the nearby Monarch Butterfly reserve.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can reach Valle de Bravo in a direct bus from the Poniente (Observatorio) bus station. Look for “Zinabus” once inside the station, they run every hour and a half. You can also buy your tickets beforehand here — just anticipate bad traffic around the terminal, which is my least-favorite bus station in the city. The ride is fine, if a little basic and not very well-ventilated. Urbvan is also running trips there now, in smaller buses.

Driving, it’s a straight shot past Toluca in Western Estado de México. Once again, just keep in mind weekend traffic can be bad.

2) Tepotzotlán

About an hour north of central Mexico City, Tepotzotlán is often overlooked by visitors. Luckily for me, my several wonderful mexiquense friends (folks from Mexico State) have showed me what I was missing! This bustling town has colorful weekend markets, celebrated museums, lively cantinas, and more on offer. Best of all, make this visit into a road trip by visiting the magnificent Arcos del Sitio outside of town.

The far-flung *Arcos del Sitio* are a striking reminder of the colonial past.

Tepotzotlán Must-Dos:

Visit the beautiful Museo Nacional del Virreinato, housed in an intricately carved former Jesuit school. This museum explores the history of the Mexican Viceroyalty, New Spain, during the colonial period.
There’s plenty of good eating in Tepotzotlán, including many garden patio restaurants popular with locals and chilangos alike. Check out Los Virreyes for a nice roof terrace, or explore the downtown’s central market and bountiful snacks.
While they are a little out of the way, you really can’t miss Los Arcos del Sitio. This towering, ancient aqueduct stretches across a rugged, dramatic valley. You can walk across them and even explore the lovely valley below, learning about Mexico State’s long-lost history in the process. You probably need a car — or to pay a taxi driver to wait for you — in order to reach the isolated arcos.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can take the efficient Tren Suburbano (Suburban Train) from Mexico City’s Buenavista Station to the Cuatitlán or Lechería stops, then take an Uber/Didi (or combi labeled “Tepotzotlán Centro,” for the adventurous) to town. Just be cautious during this journey, and don’t take it at night. The train can get very crowded at peak hours. To cut out the fuss, if you’re willing to pay more you can take an Uber/Didi all the way there.

Drivers will pass Ciudad Satélite entering Mexico State, and head up straight into Tepotzotlán. There’s plenty of parking lots in the center. Bring some cash with you.

3) Metepec

Climb to the top of Metepec’s eponymous hill for panoramic views of the surrounding valley.

My first November in Mexico, I was planning to visit a tourist-trap area for Day of the Dead (although I didn’t know it then). When I told my lovely friend Rubí this, she scoffed. “You need to come to my hometown for Día de los Muertos! It’s a pueblo mágico, you’ll love it.” As luck would have it, Rubí was a native of Metepec, a magic town famed for its Day of the Dead celebrations and artisanry. Even better, it’s only an hour and change from Mexico City.

Metepec has been around since Prehispanic times: its name means “the hill of the magueyes (agaves)” in Nahuatl. Neighboring the Valley of Toluca, the region has a rich history that you can still find in varied downtown architecture. I highly recommend visiting in October or early November, so you can enjoy its many Day of the Dead festivities. Townsfolk elaborately decorate the main church and its tall steps (located on the hill, or “tepec,” for which the town was named), hold a sweets fair, and showcase their rich artisanal heritage all over town. If you do visit the Mepetec Cemetery on November 1 or 2, please be very respectful and ask before taking any photos or videos.

Metepec’s stunning Trees of Life are collector’s art pieces that you can cherish for a lifetime. During Day of the Dead, they often exhibit trees of life, death, and catrinas (like this one) downtown.

Metepec Must-Dos:

Visit during the lead-up to Día de los Muertos.
Climb the steps and enjoy the view from the main church.
Visit the mercado de dulces (during Day of the Dead).
Admire spectacular clay Árboles de la Vida, trees of life, in Metepec’s artisan workshops — these detailed, painstaking works of art are renowned throughout Mexico.
Try a garañona, a classic local drink with a unique herbal blend, at the historic Bar 2 de abril. This characterful bar dates back to 1932.
If you’re so inclined, make a weekend of it and continue on to the Nevado de Toluca for a spectacular day hike!

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Head down to Patio Santa Fe, in Southwestern Mexico City, and right near the Toks restaurant, you can buy tickets at a stand for the “Caminante” buses. Or go straight to the Poniente (Observatorio) Bus Station and take the same bus line, in either regular or slightly fancier “Plus.” Either way, these buses go all the way to Toluca, the capital of Mexico State. Ask the bus driver to tell you when you’re near Metepec Centro, and you can take an Uber or taxi into downtown.

Driving, head south towards Santa Fe as well, exiting Mexico City towards Toluca and following signs to Metepec Centro. Whether taking the bus or driving, I don’t recommend returning late at night.

Unforgettable Pueblos Mágicos of Morelos

4) Tepoztlán

Tepoztlán is famous for its mystical, rugged mountains and foggy vistas.

Mexican artists and bohemian expats alike have flocked to Tepoztlán since the early 20th Century. They believe this breathtaking pueblo mágico, an hour south of Mexico City in Morelos State, is not only lovely, but a deeply spiritual place. Tepoztlán’s earliest indigenous residents would have agreed. Around 1200 AD, they began building the mystical Tepozteco on a jagged mountaintop. This small temple is dedicated to Tepoztécatl, God of Pulque (delicious sacred “beer” of the agave plant), Fermentation, and Fertility.

The temple remains to this day, and Tepoztlán has become a place of spiritual and artistic pilgrimage. Luminaries like Chavela Vargas called this pueblito home. Whether you’re seeking inner peace or simply a nice weekend trip, the town’s misty mornings, traditional architecture and rough-hewn mountains will enchant you. It’s even been voted one of the most romantic places on Earth.

Tepoztlán Must-Dos:

Eat traditional Mexican food with a twist at El Ciruelo, a fantastic restaurant (you can reserve on Open Table) with lush mountain views.
Watch the sunset at La Posada del Tepozteco, an iconic hotel perched high above the valley. The panoramic vista here is stunning, but the food at the hotel restaurant is just okay — have a drink here (make reservations beforehand) instead. Or for a special treat, indulge in a night’s stay, especially if you’re looking for a romantic getaway from the city.
A total no-brainer — hike up to the Tepozteco for great views! Just don’t feed local wildlife, or even take out food, as they can be aggressive.
Wander the cobblestone streets and check out local artisanary at many puestos (stands)
Try the town’s famous ice cream, in many creative flavors, at the Tepoznieve shops.
Visit the downtown monastery and church, part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site (unfortunately, due to Covid they currently seem to be closed).
If you don’t mind a crowd, Tepoztlán holds a famed traditional carnaval every February, with striking local traditions stemming from the Moorish/Spanish influence.

Wandering through Tlayacapan’s country roads, it feels as though you’ve been lost in time.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can take a Pullman or OCC (Cristóbal Colón) to Tepoztlán from the Taxqueña Terminal in Southern Mexico City. Like the buses to Valle de Bravo, these are okay, but not particularly wonderful. They drop you off at a gas station just outside town — take a quick taxi or trek down the winding road into downtown.

Driving is quite easy, following the 95 and 95D highways south for about an hour and a half trip. Bring change and small bills for a couple tolls along the way. I do not recommend visiting Tepoztlán on the weekends — traffic is bad and the town gets crowded, and much less pleasant to stroll around or hike the Tepozteco, especially in the Morelos heat.

5) Tlayacapan

Tlayacapan’s fertile fields are rich with agricultural products, from corn to nopal to fruits. Stop at a roadside stand to sample some delicious produce around town!

Not too far from Tepoztlán lies a more tranquil pueblo mágico: Tlayacapan. This tiny town is nestled among rolling hills, rock formations and fields of nopal cacti. Tlayacapan has been inhabited for centuries, boasting an interesting mix of cultural influences. Here, the native Olmec culture was later invaded by the Xochimilcas from Southwestern Morelos. Since this time, the village has played an outsize role in everything from the Spanish Invasion to classic Hollywood films. With quiet, shady streets lined with stucco homes and bougainvillea, the town is a relaxing retreat just south of Mexico City.

Tlayacapan Must-Dos:

Wander the outskirts to explore gorgeous views from the farm fields and discover hidden chapels
Stroll the center and buy Tlayacapan’s famous pottery, including pretty plant pots (macetas).
Visit the village’s UNESCO-recognized site, the historic 16th Century Ex Convento Agustino de San Juan Bautista.
Like Tepoztlán, Tlayacapan is well-known for its carnaval celebrations — and here, you may find a slightly less crazy, crowded atmosphere. (Carnavales are always busy, though.) The festival occurs three days before Ash Wednesday.
Snack on tamales de ceniza (a tamal with a dark color because of beans) and cecina, a flattened and spiced beef popular throughout Morelos.
Hike around the Corredor Biológico Chichinautzin in the nearby hills.

Wander the outskirts of Tlayacapan to find hidden gems like this tiny chapel, lost in time.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can hop on a bus towards Oaxtepec, Morelos from the Taxqueña Bus Station in Mexico City. From there, you’ll find combis or taxis to Tlayacapan. For a simpler trip, of course you can drive directly to Tlayacapan, passing through Tepoztlán on the way down. Combine both for a fun pueblo mágico weekend! When driving back to the city, you can choose to return via Xochimilco, the canal region that’s existed since pre-Aztec times. Stop along the way for a ride in a trajinera and enjoy the unique, UNESCO-lauded scenery as well.

The Silvery Jewel of Guerrero State

6) Taxco

You can’t miss the amazing view of Taxco’s undulating mountains from the Christ statue looming above town.

When the Mexican government first created the “pueblos mágicos” designation in the early 2000s, Taxco was one of the first towns to receive the honor. When you arrive here, following twisting roads up and up into the green mountains of Guerrero, it’s easy to see why. Taxco rises on the mountainside, revealing itself all at once as you crest the final hill. On a sunny day, its white buildings glimmer against the hills.

Once you’re in town, Taxco is just as charming. Be prepared for a workout, as the narrow colonial streets rival San Francisco for steepness. The main plaza is home to a beautifully carved church, and the real joy of Taxco is simply ambling around, discovering its shops, restaurants and hidden corners.

Whether cloudy or clear-skied, sunrise or sunset, Taxco stuns.

Taxco Must-Dos:

Climb (or take a taxi) up to the Cristo statue, a towering Christ above the city. From here, you’ll have jaw-dropping views of Taxco and the undulating mountains. If you do decide to walk from the city center, keep in mind it’s quite a hike and goes through some less touristy areas, as well as being a pretty confusing route up a dirt path at the end. I don’t recommend bringing valuables with you on the climb.
Poke around the town’s many silver workshops, which make everything from jewelry to home decor. While they’ve been mining silver in Taxco’s mountains for centuries, the modern artisanry tradition dates back to a collaboration between taxqueños and U.S. artist William Spratling in the 1920s.
Visit the nearby Grutas de Cacahuamilpa, a unique national park containing a cave system that runs through northern Guerrero state. You’ll find tours here throughout the historical center of Taxco.
Sample Guerrero’s fantastic food at Rosa Mexicano Restaurant, where you’ll take in unbelievable town views on the terrace. Don’t leave Taxco without trying the region’s famous pozole verde stew as well!

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can take a comfy first class bus from Taxqueña Terminal on either Costaline or ADO, for a 2.5 hour trip.

If you’re driving, this is a fun stop-off point on the way to Acapulco — another of my favorite weekend spots in Mexico. Take the toll roads for higher quality, well-maintained highways, and only drive during the day. Bring several hundred pesos in cash, as tolls can get pricey in Morelos and Guerrero.

Puebla’s Accessible Stunners

7) Cholula

Cholula’s lovely yellow church, perched upon a large hill (holding many secrets within) has become an iconic image of Puebla State.

Puebla, two hours east of Mexico City, is brimming with small mountain towns and diverse landscapes. If you visit the state capital, Puebla City, you have no excuse to miss Cholula, a pueblo mágico that’s become a suburb of the city! It’s likely you’ve already seen images of Cholula. Its famous yellow church on a hill, Popocatepetl volcano looming in the background, has become an iconic view of Mexico worldwide. But Cholula holds much, much more beneath the surface…quite literally. The town is well-known as the home to many churches — Hernan Cortés wanted to build 365 — but beneath this European religious influence, a deep indigenous undercurrent still flows.

Cholula Must-Dos:

Explore the world’s largest pyramid. Yep, you heard me right: below that photo-friendly yellow church, Cholula’s famous “hill” is actually a huge pyramid that long predates the Aztecs. It’s covered in vegetation now, but follow signs to the “Zona Arqueológica” to enter its narrow corridors and walk through the center of the hill. On the other side, you’ll discover an excavated portion of the pyramid. It’s the closest I’ve gotten to feeling like Indiana Jones.
Admire views of Puebla’s iconic volcanoes, Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. Once you’ve seen the archaeological site, climb the steps to the Spanish church at the top, and enjoy some of the region’s best panoramas.
Grab a bite to eat at the center’s many rooftop restaurants. Look for “terraza” signs and choose ones with a great view of town — especially fun at sunset.
Have a drink in Container City. Cholula’s a university city with great nightlife, and this spot’s the center of it all. Take your pick of bars and clubs, built from old metal storage containers in this creative place that pulsates with life on the weekends.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

There are constant buses of all price levels between Mexico City and Puebla, running day and night. You can take them from the airport bus station, TAPO, Taxqueña, and more. I recommend ADO for a safe and comfortable ride to Puebla City’s Central Terminal. From there, you can take buses, Uber, or — more fun! — the light rail to downtown Cholula.

8) Atlixco

Atlixco’s windy streets lined with colorful buildings lead you up and up, towards breathtaking churches and monasteries.

Just a half hour from Puebla, Atlixco sits perched on a mountain with views of the neighboring volcanoes on a clear day. This village is beloved among poblanos (Puebla natives) for its balmy climate and brilliant, multicolored buildings. As you trek through the steep stone streets, don’t forget to look back down. Often, the best vistas are found when you least expect them — pay attention to the many lovely details in Atlixco. While I’ve include some “must-dos” and wrote an entire guide to Atlixco a few years ago, don’t hew to a strict plan here. Indulge in your wanderlust and enjoy Atlixco’s many pleasures, include vibrant churches built by the region’s indigenous people, who added their own artistic flourishes to Catholic buildings during the colonial period.

The higher you climb Atlixco’s picturesque streets, the lovelier the town’s views become.

Atlixco Must-Dos:

Take a snapshot at La Escalera Ancha, the famous mural-staircase. Go just up from the center to climb these colorful steps which depict a traditional Atlixco couple. Talented local muralist Juan Manuel Martínez Caltenco painted the steps in the early months of the pandemic.
Eat pozole, mole, and whatever else your heart desires at the Atlixco market. Just ask around for the mercado, right downtown, and enjoy the best food for an unbeatable price.
Check out the local viveros (plant nurseries). Atlixco is famous for its agreeable climate, which makes it perfect for cultivating plants year-round. Before Christmas, you’ll find many dedicated to nochebuenas — poinsettias. This time of year, the nurseries glow with thousands of red and white flowers.
Visit during the popular Christmas lights festival from mid-December until January 6. Be prepared for big crowds, though. (I find it’s best to go towards the end, in early January.)
Try traditional poblano sweets from the many carts on the main plaza. My favorites are tortitas de Santa Clara (delicious cookies made with pumpkin seed cream by nuns) and camotes (candied sweet potato taffy).

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Combine Atlixco with a visit to Puebla and Cholula if you like. Take a bus to Puebla (as described in the previous pueblo mágico’s section), then get a direct bus on Autobuses Oro to Atlixco for $35 pesos. These run every 40 minutes and will take you to right near the village center.

Quaint Querétaro State

9) Tequisquiapan

Tequisquiapan’s stunningly pink central parish is just as pretty on the inside.

I knew “Tequis,” as many call it, would be pretty — but I underestimated just how lovely it is! This classic Querétaro town features street after street of charming restaurants and cafes, interspersed with dozens of high quality artisan shops selling the best of the region’s talented craftspeople. Just outside town lie many wineries, popular with locals and visitors alike for their tours and tastings. Tequisquiapan is less than a three hour ride from Mexico City, but instantly transports you to small town life. It may well be one of my favorite pueblos mágicos so far!

Tequisquiapan is one of the best-preserved, loveliest *pueblos* I’ve had the privilege of visiting so far.

Tequisquiapan Must-Dos:

Wander the picture-perfect town center, paying special attention to the highly detailed Parroquia Santa María de la Asunción, a gorgeous 19th Century pink church in the main square.
Shop for top-notch Tequis artisanry, including cane & wicker baskets and wool products, at the Mercado de Artesanías, downtown Centro de Artesanías, weekend Parador Artesanal by the bus station, and whichever little shop catches your eye.
Taste Querétaro sweets, cheeses and meats at the many tienditas around town. My favorite was a tres leches cheese made from cow, goat, and sheep’s milk.
Learn about the region’s viniculture at beautiful local wineries — I recommend the excellent tour at Viñedos La Redonda, which also offers picnics and wine tastings outdoors.
Try typical queretana food and seasonal specialties at K’puchinos Restaurant alongside the parish church. (FYI, their guacamole is also great.)

Head out of Tequis and into the region’s many inviting vineyards for wine-tastings, picnics, and more.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Luckily for all of us, it’s surprisingly easy to reach Tequis from the capital. Pop over to the bustling CDMX Terminal del Norte to get a luxury ETN bus straight to this magic town. Flecha Roja also offers buses from here, but they’re only slightly cheaper, and ETN has incredibly comfy seats, a quiet atmosphere, decent wifi, and even seatback screens with popular movies (dubbed in Spanish) that make the trip pass infinitely faster. Once at the Tequis station, grab a taxi into downtown for about $40 pesos.

Driving, take the 57D Highway into Querétaro, then follow the 120 the rest of the way. Avoid rush hours — especially on the way back into town — and stop for barbacoa (delectable roast mutton) and its consommé along the way in Mexico State. I loved visiting Tequisquiapan during the week, rather than the weekend, for a chiller vibe.

10) Peña de Bernal

The iconic *peña,* the world’s third largest monolith, rises high over Bernal.

This teeny-tiny village of cobblestone streets makes a wonderful day trip if you’re visiting Tequisquiapan or the gorgeous state capital, Querétaro. (I need to do a guide on Querétaro City itself!) Peña de Bernal is named for its striking monolith, the “peña.” The enormous rock is one of the world’s largest, second only to the Rock of Gibraltar and Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro. You can see it from every street in downtown, making for postcard views around every corner in this photogenic pueblo mágico.

Peña de Bernal Must-Dos:

Climb the peña itself for panoramic views (and a good workout).
Sample Bernal’s many delicious cheese and sweet shops with regional specialties.
Grab a table at Tierracielo restaurant for Querétaro-style enchiladas, great views, and live Spanish guitar music.
Munch on the town’s famous snacks: blue corn gorditas and pan de queso, a sweet cheese bread sold on every street.
Check out the Museo de la Máscara (Mask Museum) for hundreds of fascinating — sometimes even disturbing! — masks, many made by locals in Bernal.
Discover Bernal’s most famous artisan products: exquisite wool tapestries, rugs, blankets, and clothing.

Peña de Bernal is famous for its woolen artisanry, including intricate tapestries.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Driving, getting to Bernal is quite easy. Just follow Waze directions and avoid leaving the city at busy times, like Friday afternoon. Busing… is a bit more complicated. You can take buses from the Mexico City Terminal del Norte to nearby town Ezequiel Montes on the Coordinados or Flecha Roja line. From here, it’s easy to get a taxi (or rickety bus) to Bernal. However, it’s harder to get a taxi back, and you may find more success taking a bus. They’re shaky, but reliable for just 17 pesos, and leave from Calle Independencia. (Use this spot as a reference for the bus’s departure.)

I recommend that as Bernal’s so small, you combine this trip with a visit to Tequisquiapan or Querétaro. You can get buses to either Ezequiel Montes or Tequis, then follow the above instructions to get to Bernal. You’ll also find Tequisquiapan tour providers who offer visits to Peña de Bernal along with several local vineyards.

The *peña* has many moods: shifting from dark and foreboding, to cheery and inviting depending on the climate.

Mountainous Gems of Hidalgo

11) Real del Monte

Real del Monte is known for its refreshing, thin mountain air and European heritage.

Hidalgo, a mountainous state north of Mexico City, is one of the most underrated regions in the country. While tourists flock to the coasts and well-known spots like Guadalajara, Hidalgo’s stunning pueblos mágicos and natural wonders fly under the radar. Rising and falling along a peak, Real del Monte is one of the state’s most accessible magic towns. This village of fresh, thin air and blue skies is just a short drive from the state capital, Pachuca, but feels as if little has changed in a century.

Real del Monte Must-Dos:

Taste Hidalgo’s famous pastes, savory and sweet empanadas served warm from the oven. These aren’t just yummy. Pastes reflect Real del Monte’s heritage, dating back over a century to the arrival of British miners! A “Spanishization” of the British pasties, miners from regions like Cornwall developed this hand pie to eat deep in the mines. It’s the perfect food for miners with dirty hands and no silverware. As a result, it adapted perfectly to Hidalgo’s 19th Century mines. Over time, Mexicans added their own unique flavors to make a tasty hybrid.
Trek up Real del Monte’s steep streets, enjoying views of the picturesque valley below.
If you’re not afraid of small spaces, check out the historic Mina de Acosta, where you can descend 400 meters (feet) into a 17th Century mine.
Delve into Real del Monte’s British past at the misty, mysterious Panteón Inglés. This cemetery holds the souls of many Brit miners who once toiled in Hidalgo mines in search of a better life — and the promising glint of gold and silver.

Signs, from cobblers to doctor’s offices, are painted in a traditional style throughout Real del Monte.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Both driving and busing are fairly easy, straightforward options due to Real del Monte’s proximity to Pachuca, the state capital. You can take one of the plentiful buses to Pachuca from Mexico City’s Terminal del Norte. These are available from Futura Select (luxurious), ADO (comfy), or Ovnibus (normal, budget ride). From the station, take a taxi/Uber the rest of the way, about a half hour into town. On the way back, fortunately there’s quite a few taxis in Real del Monte to take you back to the Pachuca bus terminal.

Driving, take the 85D north, passing through Pachuca and then steadily climbing to the pueblo mágico. Real del Monte is also known as Mineral del Monte, so don’t get confused if you see this on maps. Bring cash for tolls, and extra cash for purchases in town.

12) Mineral del Chico

Viewed from a peak in El Chico National park, these striking rock formations are known as “the nuns.”

Since the colonial era, Hidalgo state has served as a center for Mexican mining. Rich in precious metals like gold and silver, the Spanish first seized on the area’s wealth, followed by miners from Britain, Canada, and elsewhere. While mining is no longer the cash cow it once was, the industry has a long and lasting heritage around the state. This is perhaps most present in Mineral del Chico, a town founded amidst the mining boom in 1565. Today, the rush is long over, but the legacy of beautiful historic buildings and rugged mountains remains. “El Chico,” as many call it, is nestled in a Mexican National Park. This makes for fantastic hiking and adventure sports throughout the area.

Mineral del Chico Must-Dos:

Sip a warm hidalguense coffee while cozying up in a café, watching the fog slowly lift during Mineral del Chico’s misty mornings.
Stay the night in one of the area’s rustic cabins in the mountains, like these.
Hike into “El Chico” National Park, following trails up to panoramic peaks. If you’re (much) more adventurous than me, hop onto one of the challenging rappel/rock climbing courses to reach the summit. This provider is well-regarded, but still gave me the chills!
Walk through the village’s winding, stone-paved streets, enjoying the clean air and smell of native pine, oak, and oyamel fir.

After a long day of hiking, savor a rich local coffee or hot chocolate in Mineral del Chico’s charming town center.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

A car is very helpful if you plan on visiting Mineral del Chico — especially if you’re interested in hiking in the surrounding natural areas. The drive is only two hours from Mexico City, and renting a car will be the most direct way to arrive — just make sure you or your driver is comfortable with windy mountain roads. Bring cash for the tolls along the way: you’ll be taking the 85D highway almost the entire route. Bring dramamine (ask for dramamina in the pharmacy) with you, as the roads are exceptionally twisty.

If driving isn’t an option, you can take a bus from the Terminal del Norte to Pachuca, then take a taxi the next 30-40 minutes to Mineral del Chico. Keep in mind, however, that getting a taxi back might be much harder. Get your taxista‘s business card, and see if you can arrange for them to pick you up on your return date/time.

13) Huasca de Ocampo

At the colonial *Hacienda San Miguel Regla,* lakes and weeping willows lie around every corner.

Just a little farther into Hidalgo, you’ll stumble upon a region traversed by ghosts, peculiar landscapes and rich history. Huasca de Ocampo is home to some of Mexico’s most unique attractions, including the famous Prismas Basálticos. The colorful small town is well-worth an overnight stay, giving you time to enjoy Huasca itself and explore the area’s gorgeous haciendas and nature. It’s no wonder that the government selected Huasca de Ocampo as the very first pueblo mágico back in 2001, when they first introduced the program!

Huasca de Ocampo Must-Dos:

Take a volcanic walk through the one-of-a-kind Prismas Basálticos (Basaltic Prisms). As you stare down into this canyon, thousands of towering volcanic rock columns rise up towards you. You can descend into the canyon and walk amongst the columns, enjoying the strange sight as several waterfalls cascade over the dark basalt. Don’t miss it!

The *Prismas Basálticos* form a unique natural phenomenon in the Huasca region.

Trek through dramatic valleys and drink in the views from jaw-dropping cliffs. Within the regional biosphere reserve, visit two spectacular ravines: the Barrancas of Metztitlán and Aguacatitla. Nearby, visit the equally impressive Peña del Aire rock formation.
Channel Zorro at the cinematic Hacienda Santa María Regla, where they filmed the iconic Antonio Banderas movie. Take a tour of this atmospheric, slightly creepy old hacienda to see the dungeons and more.
Live out your childhood treehouse fantasies in a Pinochueco cabin. Suspended in the forest canopy outside town, these well-equipped cabins give you a peaceful, green escape from the city.
Seek out colonial phantoms and memories while wandering the Hacienda San Miguel Regla. This sprawling colonial property has been well restored. Today, it features a pleasant hotel and gorgeous grounds, including several small lakes and ruins. Step back in time as you wander its willow-lined waterways and peer at 17th Century stoneworks.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

If you’re driving, be sure to enjoy a delicious barbacoa on the way once in Hidalgo! Take the México-Pachuca highway (the same as the 85D) north to Pachuca, then follow the Corredor de la Montaña. If arriving by transit, take one of the many buses from the Terminal del Norte to Pachuca. From there, you can get a taxi to Huasca.

The Best Mexico City Parks to Enjoy Nature, Wilderness, & Social Distancing

If I’m craving anything during the Covid-19 pandemic, it’s nature. Living in southern Mexico City, I’m fortunate to have access to several pretty, quiet neighborhoods and smallish parks for my socially-distanced walks. But while I’m grateful to be away from downtown crowds, I’ve been sorely missing “real” wilderness. You know it when you see it: sprawling parks or forests that provide true respite from the city. Spots to curl up with a good book. Places where you can no longer hear traffic, car horns, and the omnipresent voice blaring “se compran colchones, tambores, refrigeradores…”

As we cautiously navigate the nueva normalidad (new normal), many Mexico City parks are open with precautions. Indoor restaurants and shopping centers are open as well, but frankly, you won’t find this nervous gringa there any time soon. I am, however, delighted at the reopening of larger and more wild green spaces. There, we can enjoy nature while maintaining a safe distance!

Mexico City’s green spaces are full of hidden treasures, both natural and cultural.

I’ve been wanting to write about the best Mexico City parks for quite some time, and this seemed like the perfect excuse. In the following guide, I’ll be sharing as many large, wild-ish green spaces as I could find. You won’t find small to medium parks (i.e. Parque Mexico), green plazas (Plaza Rio de Janeiro) or quite highly urbanized ones (Parque Hundido, Parque La Mexicana) in this particular guide. This isn’t because they’re not gorgeous —many of them are, and I love visiting them! Rather, I’m focusing on wilderness or semi-wild green spaces where you can take a deep breath of fresh air and socially distance stress-free. After all, we need somewhere to escape our many 2021 anxieties, if only for a day.

Section A: Accessible & Semi-Urban Green Spaces

The Bosque de Chapultepec is one of Mexico City’s most popular green spaces.

First, I’ll go through a number of large Mexico City parks that many of us can access with relative ease. These are spots I normally reach walking or using public transportation, and can currently get to on bike or foot to be extra cautious. In short, these parks are in urban or semi-urban areas you can usually get to without a car, yet their size means you can still enjoy a real escape into nature.

1) Viveros de Coyoacán

The Viveros (nurseries) de Coyoacán are one of Mexico City’s loveliest parks. They provide crucial “lungs” to the south of the city, just as Chapultepec does for the center. At 39 hectares (almost 4.2 million square feet), once you walk into the park, the surrounding noises melt away. As the name suggests, the Viveros include a large tree and plant nursery. Back in 1901, celebrated engineer and researcher Miguel Ángel de Quevedo donated a single hectare of land here to start Mexico’s first forestry nursery.

The Viveros and their many varieties of trees provide one of the most relaxing, accessible park experiences for city dwellers.

Today, the Viveros are so much more. It’s still home to many young trees that will later make their way to other parks and forests around the metro area. It also has a cluster of small, family-owned commercial nurseries on Avenida Mexico. This spot between Entrances 3 and 4 gives you the chance to purchase a dazzling variety of plants and flowers. And as for the rest of the park? The Viveros are divided by types of trees. Elegant, wide paths flow between rows of towering cedars, pines, oaks, sweetgums, and many other tree types.

This most beloved of southern Mexico City parks has become a gathering place for hobbyists, who come on the weekends to practice everything from karate to yoga to theater. Just be conscious that due to its popularity, Viveros de Coyoacán can get a bit busy. Its wide paths, however, make it fairly easy to maintain distance. Go before noon or on weekdays for fewer visitors. It’s easily accessible on bike or foot if you’re heading to the Coyoacán neighborhood, as well as from the Viveros de Coyoacán metro stop.

Hours:

6 am to 5 pm everyday. Currently, only Puerta 1 is open. (Search “Viveros de Coyoacán Puerta 1” on Google Maps to find it.)

2) Bosque de Chapultepec

Twice the size of NYC’s Central Park, the Bosque de Chapultepec is often called the “lungs” of the city.

Of course, no respectable list could leave out the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s largest and best known urban park. This multi-section park stretches across the center-west of the city, sprawling over an area twice the size of New York City’s Central Park. It includes everything from perfect picnic spots to multiple (rather green-hued) lakes, a bustling zoo to a castle, Diego Rivera mosaics and murals to truly wild, towering forests.

The second section of the Bosque de Chapultepec is just as lovely, without the crowds.

I know, I know — I need to do a post only on everything Chapultepec Forest has to offer. And I will, once all of its offerings are safely accessible and up-and-running again post-Covid. Like many Mexico City parks, the Bosque is currently operating at 30% capacity. At the moment, I strongly recommend going on a weekday if possible to avoid the crowds. If this isn’t possible, stay away from the heavily-transited vendor area. I’m also a big proponent of Section II of the Bosque, which is less crowded and has so much to offer!

Hours:

6 am to 6 pm, closed on Mondays.

3) Reserva Ecológica Pedregal de San Ángel (and UNAM Botanical Garden, once re-opened)

The UNAM (National University) Botanical Garden and adjoining ecological reserve may be my favorite Mexico City parks. (Though they’ve got plenty of stiff competition on and off this list!) I love our many forests, but there’s something special to be said for the Pedregal. This southern part of the city is comprised of volcanic bedrock that formed when the volcano Xitle erupted around 11,000 years ago. (Don’t worry, it’s dormant now.) As a result, this area is home to the Pedregal, a totally unique ecosystem. Here, cooling lava formed undulating waves of porous black rock. Many of the Pedregal’s plants and animals can only live here — this reserve is quite literally keeping them alive.

The ecological reserve and botanical garden are bursting with unique and even endemic species.

In pre-Covid times, I’d take the Insurgentes Metrobus down towards La Joya, getting off at the Centro Cultural Universitario stop. From there, it’s fairly easy to walk up the road to the botanical garden entrance and/or different parts of the large reserve. As of February 2021, however, the botanical garden itself is still closed. You should be able to access the ecological reserve from its external entrances. Please let me know if you have any issues, so I can update this guide ASAP! Even if the main gates are closed, however, you can enjoy parts of the Pedregal environment simply walking near the Centro Cultural Universitario (Campus Cultural Center) and on the tranquil road leading to the botanical garden. Both the garden and reserve are fantastic spots for birdwatching in the city.

The Pedregal and surrounding areas contain some of the best spots for birdwatching in Mexico City.

Hours:

The Reserva, located around different parts of the UNAM campus, doesn’t have hours. You can access some parts via gates, and other simply walking around the campus and cultural center. The Botanical Garden is currently closed and I will update as soon as re-opening plans announced.

4) Bosque de Tlalpan & Parque Nacional Fuentes Brotantes

If you find yourself in the south of the city, the Bosque de Tlalpan and nearby Fuentes Brotantes National Park are sprawling, verdant oases of green. Both areas are beloved by runners and picnickers alike. The Bosque de Tlalpan is a standout for me, as it’s fairly accessible even for a car-less grinxicana such as I.

These two Mexico City parks are relatively close to one another. While they have entrances near the Insurgentes Sur Metrobus and other public transport, many families also drive to the parks. Tlalpan is my particular favorite because the green space remains remarkably well-maintained. Clean, well-marked paths lead up and around the foothills. Head here even on the weekend, and you’ll find a wide variety of walks and hikes for every skill level, with plenty of places to socially distance and lose yourself in nature. Fuentes Brotantes is a bit closer to the hills of the Ajusco mountain range, and has both highly developed spots (food stands, a small lake) and wilder areas.

Image courtesy of Fuentes Brotantes de Tlalpan

Hours:

The Bosque de Tlalpan is open from 5 am to 5 pm. The only current access point is the main Camino de Santa Teresa entrance. Fuentes Brotantes National Park is open from 9 am to 6 pm. You can access it via the main entrance on Avenida de las Fuentes. Check out some of the wildlife you can find in Fuentes Brotantes here.

5) Parque Bicentenario

If you’re looking for some green space with a heavy dash of inspiring urban renewal, check out one of Mexico City’s youngest parks, the Parque Bicentenario. The story of the Bicentenario is just as interesting as the park itself. Situated in the middle of a bustling working class, semi-industrial area of Azcapotzalco in northern Mexico City, this large park began its life as a Pemex Oil Refinery! Over the years, the refinery closed. The city was faced with the challenge of what to do with the huge industrial space left behind.

In honor of Mexico’s bicentennial celebrations, leaders decided to rehabilitate the ex-refinery into the urban green space that surrounding neighborhoods desperately needed. Today, many of the Bicentenario’s trees are still young and have some growing to do. However, the park already bursts with innovative and much-loved spaces for local families, and it will only improve from here. Check out the different Mexican regional ecosystems just inside the entrance (some are closed off during the pandemic). Then explore the huge fields that stretch beyond, include a large artificial-but-pleasant lake, winding walking paths, a small museum, a skate park, and many picnic spots.

Hours:

Parque Bicentenario is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 7 AM to 6 PM. The main entrance is just across the street from the Refinería Metro stop. My only note here is that mask use wasn’t as good as in other parks. That said, the large open spaces mean you can give others a wide berth.

6) Bosque de Aragón

Located in a heavily urban, working class area of the city, the Bosque de San Juan de Aragón (the Aragon Forest) doesn’t always get the credit it’s due. Since 2015, the city has been revamping the park to restore its full natural and cultural beauty. This green space is vast and diverse, covering 162 hectares (over 17 million square ft.) of Mexico City’s east. Aragón has a storied history: it once formed part of Lake Texcoco, the large body of water upon which ancient Tenochtitlan sat. When the Spanish arrived, they built a hacienda around the area, named after Captain Blas López de Aragón.

These days, the park is popular with runners and fun-seeking families alike for its many trails and well-known zoo. Even migratory waterbirds love Aragón. Herons, ducks, and many other species flock here every year as if deep in their DNA, they still remember when this was part of Lake Texcoco. In “normal” times (pre-Covid), the park puts on many cultural activities, from music to movies.

Hours:

6 am to 6 pm; enter on the Avenida José Loreto Fabela, Colonia San Juan de Aragón. Take the same precautions you would in any large, heavily urbanized green space, avoiding deserted spots and lonely hours of morning and night.

Section B: Wilder Green Spaces

Now let’s look at some great parks that are a little more out-of-the-way. These spots are mostly around the city’s southern mountains and waterways. Here, you can get spectacular views and truly fresh air, often without the crowds. The trade-off is that having a car makes accessing these spaces much, much easier. They’re ideal for day trips, so pack a picnic lunch and get going!

1) Parque Nacional Desierto de los Leones

When I first arrived in Mexico City, I headed to Desierto de los Leones with a few friends on a whim. When we arrived after winding up and up a mountain, I couldn’t believe we were still in Mexico City. This immense, breathtaking national park covers a swath of the southern mountains. After you pass the park’s entrance (and a big pack of very fit mountain bikers), you’ll reach the exconvento, a whimsical stone monastery nestled among the pines.

No visit to Desierto de los Leones would be complete without seeing the stunning colonial monastery.

Visit the monastery (the guided tours are fascinating) and hike through the surrounding paths, which lead you to several crumbling hermitages if you follow the creepy “monk” symbol on the old-school park signage. There are plenty of places to get food and drink, as well as grills and picnic tables. Desierto de los Leones has a truly unique, fairy tale atmosphere. If you’re anything like me, you might just fall in love with the place.

The vast park is a popular spot for picnics, mountain-biking, and even horse-riding.

Hours:

The park itself is open Tuesdays through Sundays, 8 am to 5 pm, but the monastery doesn’t open until 10 am. You can take a rideshare car here…but good luck ordering one to get back, as there’s no cell coverage! For best results, drive your car or rent one, following Waze directions south and further south, with the destination “Exconvento Desierto de los Leones.” Bring petty cash for the monastery, food, and parking.

2) Parque Nacional Cumbres del Ajusco

This humungous national park covers an even larger bit of the southern mountains, this time the Sierra del Ajusco. Ajusco comes from an indigenous Nahuatl word meaning roughly “the place of flowers, from which water springs”. The indigenous peoples of the area knew this area’s value long ago: the Ajusco mountain range is the source for much of Mexico City’s water.

You can see the iconic Pico de Águila, Mexico City’s highest peak, from many spots in the Ajusco.

Today, many indigenous people continue to call the Ajusco home, dedicating their communities to its preservation. One such effort is the Parque Ejidal San Nicolás Totolapan, the best-known communally owned park in the Ajusco. Covering 2300 hectares (8.8 square miles) of forested mountain, the park charges a small cash fee ($30 pesos the last I’ve seen) to enter. As in many of the area’s green spaces, it can get crowded around the entrance on the weekends, especially around the food and diversion areas. Hike up the mountain paths for both peace and a safer, socially distanced experience.

Hours:

Enter the Parque Ejidal San Nicolás Totolapan from 8 am to 6 am. It’s at Km 11, Picacho-Ajusco 5, Panoramica, but just put its name in a navigation app for a fairly easy trip up, up, and up! A car or round-trip taxi will save you a lot of stress here.

3) Xochimilco’s Wild Side

Many know Xochimilco for its touristy, crowded canals packed with colorful trajinera boats, booze, and mariachis. That’s not ideal for worriers like me in these pandemic times — although I feel deeply for all those who work in tourism there and have had to seek alternatives in 2020 and 2021. But Xochimilco is much more than chelas and La Llorona shows.

Image courtesy of the Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco, once of the most unique Mexico City parks.

In reality, it’s a vast, endangered wetland that provides a crucial home for endemic species and a livelihood for indigenous communities. When you’re ready for something very different from the pine and oyamel-covered mountains, drive or ride down to the Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco, or even the peripheral Bosque de Nativitas, for a taste of this singular ecosystem. In the former, you’ll discover canals and chinampas (agricultural islands), herons and ajolotes, ancient traditions and sunrise views of the volcanoes.

Hours:

9 am to 6 am, enter the Parque Ecológico (Ecological Park) at Periférico Oriente #1 in Colonia Ciénega Grande. In addition, several tour providers offer small-group visits to the park with Covid-19 precautions, including Aztec Explorers.

4) Los Dinamos & La Marquesa

For a beautiful natural experience within the city, you barely need to go past Six Flags before you reach Los Dinamos. Quite a bit further afield, La Marquesa is just outside the city in Estado de Mexico (Mexico State). I grouped these two parks together not because they’re right next to each other, but because they occupy similar places in the hearts and minds of many chilangos. Both have a big jumble of nice, natural green spaces and very family-oriented, crowded areas for food, games, and other outdoor activities. You can even fish for trout and eat it for lunch, though it will come from a very crowded pond that makes it basically impossible not to catch a fish!

My main reservation in recommending Los Dinamos and La Marquesa is that they can get quite crowded on the weekends. But like so many areas on this list, if you get off the beaten track and explore either parks’ trails, chances are you’ll leave the crowds behind.

Hours:

Los Dinamos is open from 6 am to 6:30 pm, while you can visit La Marquesa from 7 am to 7 pm. You can reach either quite easily by car by entering their names into Waze; bring cash for parking and other expenses. Be safe, don’t wander into isolated areas alone, and try not to bring many valuables.

Mexico City is packed with beautiful green spaces, like Section II of the Bosque de Chapultepec (shown here).

At the end of the day (or rather the post), keep in mind that this is still just a small cross-section of Mexico City’s many outstanding green spaces! This article kept getting longer, and at some point I have to limit my endless enthusiasm. That doesn’t mean, however, that you shouldn’t check out areas like the Bosque de Tlahuac, Parque Tezozómoc, Parque Nacional Cerro de la Estrella, and the slightly smaller parks I mentioned in the intro!

Nevertheless, I tried to focus on the parks that have brought me the most peace and joy during my years in Mexico City. Most of all, these are areas where you can socially distance with relative ease, expect to see others with masks, and in several cases, receive hand sanitizer and a temperature check at the entrance. Now more than ever, it’s important to stay safe in and out of our beloved green spaces.

Weekend Travel Guide to Acapulco: Sunsets, Spectacular Views, and Staying Safe

In recent years, the sunny beach destination of Acapulco has gotten a bad rap. Google its name, and you’ll find news stories on gang wars and violence. That’s certainly the perception I had of Acapulco before living in Mexico.

Then I watched the Luis Miguel series on Netflix. (I’m only a little embarrassed to admit how much I enjoyed this entertaining, well-acted, and yes a bit soapy show on the life of Mexican pop star Luis Miguel.) The show takes place during the singer’s rise in the 1980s and ’90s, when he lived between Mexico City and Acapulco. But the city that Luis Miguel evokes wasn’t the one I’d encountered in those alarming headlines. This was Acapulco at its peak. Glittering lights curving along a spectacular bay, dramatic cliffs abutting verdant green mountains, and glamorous nightclubs overlooking gorgeous beaches.

The Two Narratives of Acapulco

So how to reconcile these two Acapulcos: the city of gleaming Pacific ocean views, and the one known for its crime and violence? After all, the resort town remains the number one destination for domestic tourism. Each year, hotel occupancy is near 100%, and dozens of major conferences, photoshoots, and festivals take place there. I spoke to many Mexican friends who visit frequently, staying at family condos every year. They assured me things were looking up in Acapulco — that tourism was far separated from the city’s criminal underbelly — and so, in fall 2019, I headed there for a long weekend with a friend. I had to see for myself.

What I found was a fascinating, utterly unexpected blend of past and present, wealth and shabbiness, natural beauty and urban development. The Acapulco of today still oozes charm, with layers of forgotten history existing alongside one another. The ghosts of Filipino and Chinese traders who brought spices and porcelain into port on hulking schooners, ’50s Hollywood stars who once tanned on its beaches, ’80s discotheques pulsating with jet-set nightlife, and the smugglers, from colonial pirates to modern capos, who’ve left their own troubled legacy. They all, somehow, coexist.

Despite this complicated history, I fell in love with Acapulco’s beauty, personality, and rich culture. Here, I’ll share some of my favorite experiences in the Pearl of the Pacific. I’ll also complement these with recommendations on how to have the safest, most enjoyable stay you can.

Watch the Acapulco Sunset over the Pacific

Since Acapulco is known as a highly developed, built-up resort town, nothing really prepares you for its rugged, dramatic coastline. There’s no doubt the city is overdeveloped, its rocky cliffs studded with hundreds of high rise hotels and condos. But in those areas that have been left mostly alone (mainly on the western side of the city, just uphill from Playa Langosta), you can drink in one of Mexico’s most utterly spectacular sunset views.

The walk along the sea from Playa Langosta up to La Quebrada is truly stunning.

Sinfonía del Mar

Take one of Acapulco’s famous VW Bug taxis to Sinfonía del Mar or Playa Langosta to begin your sunset walk. I preferred the slightly longer walk from Playa Langosta, because I got to enjoy the beginning of the sunset from more vantage points, and by the time the most dramatic view was revealed, it felt supremely satisfying. Sinfonía del Mar (Symphony of the Sea) is a lovely, open-air theater, its curved seats leading to a sun mosaic stage perched directly above the churning Pacific. When you’ve had your fill of views and snapshots there, continue walking up the sea-walk to La Quebrada (The Ravine).

La Quebrada

This remarkable spot is home Acapulco’s most beloved sunset view, a place where locals and visitors gather nightly. It’s essentially a craggy cliff that drops dramatically down to the sea, with steps and a winding path heading down towards the final lookout. At the top, pay a small fee (no more than 45 pesos I believe) to enter, then slowly make your way down.

My favorite view was at the top of the swirling path, where you can drink in the cliffs (so eye-catching that they look carved, sculpted into the rock), the sea, the beauty of the path itself, and the full scope of the sky. I would go here every night if I could, every sunset a wholly new phenomenon waiting to be discovered. (Since you can’t be there right now, check out the fantastic local photographer Allan Bañuelos @acawanderer for many of these spectacular views.) Acapulco is just another example of Mexico’s seemingly endless natural riches.

Let Acapulco’s Legendary Cliff Divers Take Your Breath Away

Once you’re at La Quebrada, there’s more in store for you than an unforgettable sunset. After the sun sinks down below the sea, the sky darkens, and the coast lights up with lanterns. Then, some skinny local kids will climb up onto the cliff on the opposing side of the gorge. But these are no ordinary adolescents… they’re the famous quebradistas of Acapulco, the cliff divers!

Once the Acapulco sky darkens, the *quebradistas* (cliff divers) perform their death-defying feats. They leap off the cliff on the right in this image, into the tiny gully of water below.

One by one, they’ll leap from different points on the 45-meter high cliff face into the water, outlined by jagged rocks that line the dark ravine. The quebradistas start lower down, gradually jumping from higher and higher spots until the final daredevil, who leaps down from the very top of the cliff. It’s exciting, anxiety-inducing, and breathtaking in the most literal sense. Not to be missed.

If you have time before the sunset and cliff-divers, head up to the Casa de los Vientos, the famed home of socialite and art collector Dolores Olmedo. She was the long-time patron of Mexican artist Diego Rivera, who created a beautiful mosaic for the house’s entryway. Today, the house is a cultural center you can visit Monday through Friday.

Delve Into Acapulco History at the Fuerte de San Diego

Acapulco is famous for its 20th century heyday, but this city has a much longer, genuinely compelling history that many visitors know little about. By far the best place to play catch up is the Fuerte de San Diego (San Diego Fort), an 18th century citadel that overlooks Acapulco Bay and the inland mountains from a lush hilltop.

Not only is the five-pointed *Fuerte de San Diego* full of interesting history — it’s just plain gorgeous.

I hopped on one of Acapulco’s colorful, spray-painted pesero buses to climb the hill, getting off at the fort’s entrance. Today, the Fuerte de San Diego is the Acapulco History Museum. The fort is in a five-point star formation made from thick, cool stone, providing a welcome respite from the city’s legendary heat and humidity. Each point of the pentagram holds exhibits on the port’s history, from its beginnings as a holding of the Aztec Empire (Acapulco most likely means “The Place in which Reeds Abound” in the Aztec language Nahuatl) to colonial port and beyond. Especially interesting is the exhibit on the “Nau Chino,” the trade corridor between Asia and Mexico, and its effects on both Asian and Mexican culture, food, art, and more. The room showing Acapulco’s storied heyday as a destination for American and Mexican movie stars is fun as well!

Views behind the fort feature Guerrero state’s rolling green mountains. Directly in front, meanwhile, lies the vast curvature of Acapulco Bay.

Get a Taste of Old Hollywood at Hotel Los Flamingos

Speaking of classic movie stars jet-setting to Acapulco Bay, no discussion would be complete without mentioning Hotel Los Flamingos. I’m a big fan of everything Old Hollywood, and this was always one of Acapulco’s main attractions for me. Glamorous photographs of Marilyn on the beach, the Kennedy’s on honeymoon, Frank Sinatra in a nightclub crooning:

“Come fly with me, come fly, let’s fly away; Just say the word and we’ll beat the birds down to Acapulco Bay…”

Hotel Los Flamingos has one of the best sunsets in Acapulco, with a sprinkling of classic Hollywood flair.

There aren’t many places left where you can get a sense of Old Acapulco, the city that movie stars of the Golden Age once roamed. Most of that city is covered with modern condos and resorts, shiny new bars and nightclubs. But at Hotel Los Flamingos, time stands still.

History and Glamour at Los Flamingos

When the Hollywood star Johnny Weissmuller (best known for his role as Tarzan) first came to midcentury Acapulco, he fell in love. Soon after, he decided to build his own hotel in the coastal paradise. And so he did: Hotel Los Flamingos, a bright pink, modern joint perched precariously on splendid cliffs facing the ocean. In its heyday, the hotel was luxurious and swank: Cary Grant, Orson Welles, and John Wayne hanging out in the pool with their good friend Johnny. These days, Hotel Los Flamingos has been frozen in time.

For a more upscale take on Old Hollywood style in Acapulco, check out the famed Hotel Boca Chica. Photo courtesy of Design Hotels Group.

The era of glamour and Hollywood stars has come and gone for this slightly care-worn spot, but so have the sky-high prices. Now you can spend $60-$70 USD a night for a comfy bed, or $15 for a meal, and watch one of Acapulco’s most stunning sunsets while sipping one of the hotel’s famous Cocos Locos. It really is an Old Hollywood time warp, tucked away in a quiet corner of this lively city.

If you have time, check out Hotel Boca Chica for a more subdued, minimalist take on classic Acapulco style. Boca Chica is a fancier (and definitely pricier) Midcentury Modern hotel featured in many photo shoots, perfect if you’re looking for an upscale retro experience.

Indulge in Local Acapulqueño Cuisine

Seafood

Most people I asked about food in Acapulco told me, “Meh.” And it’s true, the food at fancy hotels and restaurants honestly didn’t impress me much. But there is good food in Acapulco, just not necessarily at these tourist traps! As you’re staring out into the Pacific Ocean, I’m sure seafood will be on your mind. My favorite spot was Buzo’s, a classic restaurant right in front of the beach on the main bay. The caldo de camarón (spicy shrimp stew) was the best I’ve ever had! The molcajete de mariscos was a steaming, flavorful array of seafood, from fresh octopus to fish. But really, almost anything here will be delicious.

Pozole Verde

Another local specialty might not sound as appetizing in such a hot, muggy climate: pozole verde, a thick stew made with pork and hominy. If you can find a good air-conditioned spot and cool down, it’s well worth it! Head to a local restaurant on a Thursday to enjoy a bowl.

Dance a Traditional Danzón with Acapulco Locals in the Zócalo

Walking along the costera — the sea drive that twists and turns along Acapulco’s bays — a typical bus passed by, spray painted with Snoopy or The Simpsons or who knows. (They’re all like this, and all unique!). “Hop on, güera! We’re headed to the Zócalo!”

From the *costera* seaside road, hop on a colorful bus to get to the *zócalo*, the Pacific-facing side, and beyond.

I didn’t take this cheery driver up on his offer. Later, though, I trekked through the humidity myself, huffing and puffing up the coast to the zócalo, Acapulco’s main plaza. In many Mexican towns and cities, this main square is the literal town center. Here, however, it’s just off the ocean. Other than that, it contains all the charms of every Mexican zócalo, with a particular Acapulqueño flair. Young couples flirt, families take a paseo (stroll) with ice cream, and music is always playing somewhere. On my Friday evening visit, I lucked out and wandered into the weekly Danzón party. A large group of locals was enjoying this traditional, waltz-like dance style. I suddenly understood why the older woman I’d seen on a bus earlier had been so beautiful dressed, in head-to-toe white with high heels. Here she was at the Zócalo, swirling away!

Tips to Maximize Your Time and Stay Safe While in Acapulco:

1. Be conscious of your belongings:

I never felt unsafe while in Acapulco. That said, take the normal precautions you would in any large city where theft occurs. Don’t bring valuables around with you. (I chose not to take my camera, and instead made do with phone photos for this visit.) Don’t leave your beach bag with phone, cash, cards, etc. unattended, instead bringing only the essentials if you’re going for a swim.

Acapulco is full of hidden corners and enchantment, yours to discover. That doesn’t mean, however, you should throw caution to the wind.

2. Think carefully before going out to nightclubs:

I’m not much of a partier or nightclub-goer. When I went to Acapulco, I was more interested in relaxation than going out. That said, the city is well known for its nightlife, and you may be tempted to go out while you’re here. There are many high-end clubs, and most likely you’ll have no problem — crime targeting tourists is very uncommon in Acapulco. However, when tourists have been caught in the crossfire of narcotrafficking-related conflict, it’s been at nightclubs. This is because wealthy traffickers can target each other at this type of establishment. So to be abundantly cautious, I don’t recommend going to clubs here. Pick up wine, beer, liquor, whatever you’d like at the many supermarkets on the costera. Then enjoy them by the ocean, pool, or hot tub!

3. Stay in Acapulco Dorado in AirBnB for a low-budget trip

If you don’t plan on renting a car, I highly recommend getting an AirBnb apartment along the costera road, officially called Miguel Alemán. This will ensure that you can walk to most major spots: the beach, the supermarket, secure taxi stops (paradas), and an assortment of restaurants.

4. Visit during the off-season

If you head to Acapulco during semana santa (Easter week), or Mexican summer and winter school vacations, the beaches will be packed. It’s really no fun to go during these times! But wait until fall, and you can spend a much quieter, more enjoyable vacation on empty beaches. From around September to November, you’ll have Acapulco largely to yourself.

5. Get a resort day pass for a taste of Acapulco luxury

For an especially relaxing day, enjoy the facilities at a luxury resort with an inexpensive day pass.

If you’re jonesing for a taste of the good life, there are plenty of fabulous resorts around Acapulco. Rather than paying through your teeth for a room, hop in a cab and enjoy a day there! We spent a very tranquil day in the Princess resort, taking full advantage of the buffet, quiet beach, and pool. For around $25 USD, we got a full day there, with a large credit to get food at the hotel. The taxi from downtown Acapulco to the resort area isn’t cheap (not by my peso-salaried standards, anyway). It cost around $300 pesos, or $15 USD at the time, in each direction. But if you need that luxurious experience, it will still be pennies compared to even a one night stay at the resort.

5. Bring cash for taxis and street vendors

Finally, don’t count on using your Uber or Didi app while in Acapulco. Ride-sharing is banned, and the seemingly endless number of taxistas in their blue and white VW vochos reign supreme. These taxis aren’t cheap, either. Plan on bringing several hundred pesos, depending on how far you plan on going. Be sure to haggle and establish a price before getting in. And if you find a great taxi driver, don’t be shy about asking for his card, especially if you want to go farther along the coast on future days.

Bring some extra cash in case a restaurant doesn’t accept card (always a good rule of thumb in Mexico), and to support local vendors. There are some really nice, non-pushy folks on the beach who sell everything from mango to coconuts to fresh oysters.

Final Reflection

Everywhere I went in Acapulco, I was the only foreigner. Even as Acapulco has remained a wildly popular domestic tourism destination, negative press and alarming headlines have scared away the spring breakers (hey, I’m not complaining). While I certainly felt very visible as the only gringa around, locals were consistently kind, warm, and welcoming. Frankly, many folks seemed happy, and maybe a little surprised, to see a foreign visitor — at least outside of the resorts. I came for Acapulco’s renowned coastline and storied sunsets. I stayed for the city’s lively personality, friendly spirit, and sense of fun.

Mountain Peaks and Mysticism in San Cristóbal de las Casas

Few cities capture your imagination as quickly as San Cristóbal de las Casas. This mountain hamlet has remained in the world’s eye since Zapatista revolutionaries briefly seized it in 1994. But these days, far from a revolutionary hotbed, San Cristóbal is a bohemian oasis where quirky expats live alongside locals, many of Mayan ancestry.

The magic of the town’s setting is undeniable — and you probably already know how much I love Mexican mountain towns by now. Cobblestone colonial streets slope up and down the hills, while green mountains stretch out in every direction. Likewise, San Cristóbal’s rich indigenous cultural blend is just as responsible for its enduring charm. Here, I’ve collected my favorite experiences in and around town. From food to textiles, nature to religious practices, these encapsulate what I love about San Cristóbal.

San Cristóbal de las Casas is teeming with lovely colonial churches.

1. Overwhelm Your Senses at the San Cristóbal Municipal Market

Firstly, there’s no better way to start out your day than San Cristóbal’s sprawling municipal market. All around the market’s edges are tamale vendors, their tall metal canisters steaming. Try a classic Chiapas breakfast: a tamal de chipilín, corn mixed with fragrant wild herbs and chicken, steamed in banana leaves. It’s one of the most delicious tamales I’ve tried anywhere in the country!

But there’s much more to the market than tamales. San Cristóbal is a meeting point for the dozens of Mayan villages that dot the countryside around town. Many days, villagers come down the mountain to buy and sell their wares. As a result, the market is incredibly vibrant. Wild turkeys are sold alongside regional herbs and chiles, while villagers wearing their town’s distinct clothing style (black sheeps’ wool skirts and ponchos for Chamulans, brightly embroidered flowers for Zinacantans) and haggle for goods. It’s an unforgettable, immersive slice of highland Mayan culture.

At the bustling San Cristóbal market, you’ll meet many shoppers and vendors from nearby Mayan villagers — including Chamulans, like this gentleman.

2. Sip on a Chiapanecan Coffee at Carajillo

After that, your energy may have started to flag. Luckily, there’s a simple solution: some of Mexico’s best coffee! The mountains of Chiapas are home to hundreds of small family farms producing rich, earthy café. While there are many places to taste and try coffee in San Cristóbal, Carajillo Café is singularly beloved by visitors — for good reason.

This lovely café sources their organic coffee straight from small farmers in the surrounding hills, roasting it in-house. I loved the balanced medium blend, but Carajillo’s knowledgable staff will help find something perfect for your taste. It’s especially fun to order coffee served in their Japanese siphon coffee-maker! They’ll prepare it in front of you in this funky contraption, which looks straight out of a laboratory, explaining the unique process! While I can’t deny Carajillo’s hipster-ness, it was all worth it for the best cup of coffee I’ve had in Mexico. Fruity, strong, and even chocolatey… I guarantee you’ll want to buy beans to bring home.

Carajillo Café is legendary for a reason. Its coffee, breakfasts, and ambience will have you coming back again and again.

3. Delve into the World of Mayan Textiles

The cobblestone streets of San Cristóbal are filled with color, thanks to the region’s vibrant, diverse textile traditions. The common thread (pun intended, sorry) behind this explosion of pattern and texture is Mayan culture. This indigenous heritage reaches from the tropical Yucatan Peninsula all the way to these cool, cloudy mountains.

The textiles’ best introduction is found in the colonial Santo Domingo Church, home to the Mayan Textile Center. This stunning museum is small enough to visit in an hour or two, but jam-packed with clothing and textiles from all over the Mayan world — from Chiapas to Guatemala.

Mayan textiles, however, aren’t confined to museums. In fact, they’re a vital part of everyday life for many in and around San Cristóbal. Zinacantán, a popular textile-producing village nearby, is home to detailed flower embroidery and the woven chal, a poncho-like garment work over the arms and shoulders. Take a taxi or combi there from San Cristóbal to visit artisans in their homes. In Zinacantán, you can learn about their complex work, supporting it with a worthwhile purchase.

In the mountain village of Zinacantán, you’ll have the opportunity to observe skilled lifelong weavers at work. It’s truly a privilege to watch them creating their art.

4. Hike Amongst Wild Orchids and Mountain Songbirds

Just outside San Cristóbal (up a big hill, FYI), the Orquideas Moxviquil is an oasis of natural beauty and calm. This remarkable orchid reserve was founded to save many of the endangered species in Chiapas’s forests and jungles. You can hike through the hilly woods with a guide, spotting wild orchids and many endemic bird species. The main attraction is the garden, with both outdoor grounds and two fantastical greenhouses that look like hobbit houses. They hold hundreds of species of orchids — the sheer diversity of shapes, colors, and sizes is mind-boggling. It’s both a worthwhile cause to support and a stunning place to spend an afternoon!

At the Moxviquil Orquid Reserve, hummingbirds flit through an enchanted garden with hundreds of flower species. It must be like a candy shop for them!

5. Discover Highland Mysticism in San Juan Chamula

San Cristóbal and the villages that surround it are places of syncretism, blending indigenous Mayan culture with outside influences. In the town of San Juan Chamula, for instance, this fascinating cultural mixing is made manifest at the parish church.

The Chamula church outside of San Cristóbal is home to a potent blend of Mayan and Catholic spirituality.

Take a quick combi or taxi from near the municipal market to Chamula, as locals call it. You can’t miss the small, lovely church in the main square, gleaming with bright turquoise detailing. Once you’re inside, you’ll enter a wholly unique world of religious practice. Pine needles carpet the floor, where Chamulan families drink carbonated beverages, pray, and sometimes sacrifice animals such as chickens as a part of their religious practice. It’s a beautiful, spiritual experience, and I feel incredibly lucky to have been able to visit. In order to respect the community’s wishes, make sure not to take any pictures or video inside the church.

You can’t take pictures inside the church — but feel free to do so while admiring its spectacular facade.

7. Explore Mexico’s Grand Canyon: Sumidero

Chiapas is a land of contrasts. San Cristóbal is perched high in the mountains, with a crisp and even chilly climate. Here, spring rains can fill the cobblestone streets with water in the afternoons. But start down towards the Sumidero Canyon, and things change drastically within a dozen miles. About an hour from San Cristóbal, the Sumidero Canyon is an iconic symbol of Mexico’s dramatic natural beauty.

Less than an hour from San Cristóbal, the Sumidero Canyon is a national symbol of natural beauty.

Sumidero couldn’t be more different from San Cristóbal: here, you’ll descend into the tropics. Temperatures and humidity can be very high (bring lots of water, sunscreen, and a hat) in this monumental ravine, which formed around the same time as the Grand Canyon. Take a boat tour into its depths to see the canyon’s majestic walls, river, and even spider monkeys! You can take a tour from one of the many providers in San Cristóbal.

In the canyon, you’ll see spider monkeys swinging in the trees at the edges!

8. Learn About Ancient Archaeology at Casa Na Bolom

Before you leave San Cristóbal, head up one of its many cobblestone hills to visit Casa Na Bolom, the House of the Jaguar. This charming colonial house was the longtime home of Frans and Gertrude Blom, a Danish and Swiss-German couple who dedicated their life to unearthing the rich Mayan archaeological sites of Chiapas. The house is like a mysterious, Indiana Jones-esque treasure trove. It’s teeming with artifacts, dusty books, and exploring equipment that will transport you to a fascinating time in Chiapas history.

Casa Na Bolom is a lovely colonial house, transformed into a museum about to Mayan archaeology and the adventurous couple who dedicated their lives to it.

Trip Tips for San Cristóbal de las Casas:

Be prepared for all weather conditions:

Between my arrival at the nearest airport in Tuxtla (lowlands) and my climb up to San Cristóbal in a combi, I went from about 100 degrees Fahrenheit to 60! The highland climate can be rainy at times, and quite chilly at night, so come prepared for these contrasts. Definitely bring an umbrella and supportive walking shoes — hiking boots would be even better.

In the mountains surrounding town, weather can be variable. This makes for some strong rains, but also shining wet cobblestones and stunning afternoon skies.

Stick to bottled water:

I usually brush my teeth with local tap water in Mexico, but for some reason, I decided to use bottled water while in San Cristóbal. Later, many friends and acquaintances told me they’d gotten stomach sicknesses while in town, most likely from tap water. My instincts served me well in this case! On the other hand, I ate quite a bit of street food without any issue.

Finally, whether you love culture, nature, or food, San Cristóbal is sure to fascinate and delight.

Book Your Tours in Town:

For excursions like Chamula, Zinacantán, and the Sumidero Canyon, don’t worry about booking beforehand. San Cristóbal is teeming with pretty inexpensive tour providers. Just look for the little storefronts advertising tours a day or two before you want to go, and shop around for the best price.

To sum up, San Cristóbal has become a haven for people from around the world, drawn to its natural and arquitectural beauty, artsy feel, and singular culture. This was just a small taste of what you could do in a long weekend in the city — Chiapas has so much to offer!

Atlixco Travel Guide: Charm and Tradition in a Mexican Mountain Town

Just a short drive from Puebla City and a few hours from Mexico City, Atlixco is worlds away from these modern hubs. This mountainous village, overlooking distant Popocatepetl volcano, is one of Mexico’s most charming “pueblos mágicos.” This official designation, literally meaning “magic town,” goes to the country’s most historic, beautiful small towns. Atlixco certainly fits the bill, with some of the best views, architecture, and food in Mexico. After a wonderful visit with friends this winter, I’d love to share some things to do and see in Atlixco.

All About the Pueblo Mágico of Atlixco

Puebla State sits southeast of Mexico City, and is full of lovely small towns, parks, and natural beauty. Atlixco is one of the state’s most popular destinations due to its perfect climate and colonial splendor. The town’s name means “water in the valley” in the indigenous Nahuatl language, and Atlixco is indeed a kind of valley paradise. Although indigenous people had lived in this mountainous valley for centuries, and the Aztec Empire conquered the area, the Spanish officially founded the town in 1579.

Lovely Atlixco is one of the most colorful colonial towns in Mexico.

Atlixco has a warm, humid microclimate that makes it perfect for growing all kinds of plants — it’s like a big, outdoor greenhouse. Over the years, in fact, that became the magic town’s main industry: known as “Atlixco de las Flores” (Atlixco of the Flowers), the town is still home to many nurseries and flower sellers. This makes it lush and green year-round, even sending lots of cut flowers to the U.S. The flowers, combined with immaculate colonial architecture climbing up the hills, creates stunning vistas.

With panoramic views and colonial charm, Atlixco is one of my favorite pueblos mágicos (magic towns) in Mexico.

Things to Do in Atlixco

Eat at the Town Market:

In many cities and villages, you won’t find the best food in the fancy restaurant. It’s in the local market, where dozens of vendors bring regional flavors to the freshest of ingredients. Atlixco, and Puebla State in general, are famous for local delicacies. At the town’s market, Mercado Juárez, try village specialties like Atlixco’s famous chicken-chipotle consommé, and state classics like delicious Mole Poblano and Cemitas (a heavenly Puebla sandwich).

The town is steeped in tradition, reflected in its historic streets, local cuisine, and lively markets.

Discover Atlixco’s Historic Churches:

Atlixco is famous for the beauty of its many, many churches. These colonial gems typically feature the Folk Baroque style, which reflects elaborate Spanish tastes and local traditions, materials, and indigenous handiwork. I fell in love with this unique style, which is both ornate and down-to-earth, grandiosely European and colorfully Mexican. San Francisco Monastery and Church, a pared-down 16th Century example, offer gorgeous views. San Agustín Church, with a decorative, bright yellow facade, is my personal favorite.

The San Agustín Church shows off the Folk Baroque style for which the town is known.

Climb the Cerro de San Miguel:

When you arrive in Atlixco, you’ll immediately see the Cerro de San Miguel, a hill and colonial church overlooking the town. Every street seems to lead up to it, and you climb and climb before reaching it. Follow any of these steep cobblestone streets up, and you’ll get to the base of the hill. It might appear sketchy, but just head up one of the overgrown trails here — Atlixco is a pretty safe, sleepy town, but I suggest going with friends for peace of mind. Finally, you’ll arrive at the “mirador”: the town’s panoramic overlook. The tiny chapel at the top is often closed to the public, but hosts a pilgrimage the last Sunday of September.

Enjoy spectacular views of the valley below from the Cerro de San Miguel — it’s worth the trek up.

Taste Local Sweets, Coffee, and People Watch in the Zócalo:

The town’s zócalo (main square) is one of the prettiest in Mexico. There’s plenty of nice spots to sit and watch the world go by, but even better, grab an iced coffee on the mosaic-ed terrace at The Italian Coffee Company. To satisfy your sweet tooth, many street vendors sell regional treats. Try camotes (sweet potato candies) or Tortitas de Santa Clara (pumpkin seed and shortbread cookies) for classic Puebla flavors.

Visit the Plant Nurseries:

Atlixco of the Flowers is known nationwide for its viveros (nurseries), so it would be a shame to miss them. They’re a bit outside the town’s center, but you can hail a cab and ask them to take you to the “Viveros de Atlixco.” Enjoy the lush greenery, colorful flowers, and balmy climate. If you’re a millennial, you’ll surely be taking some Insta pics out here.

Atlixco’s perennial blue skies and lush greenery are well-known around the country.

Check Out the Seasonal Festivities:

Atlixco is a cradle of local tradition, and that extends to its yearly religious and cultural celebrations. The Festival Huey Atlixcayotl in late September brings many visitors to town to honor Quetzalcóatl, the Feathered Serpent God of many Central Mexican peoples. This lively celebration is an incredible experience reflecting regional culture (11 different local cultures!) with dance and artisanry. Day of the Dead brings a spectacular tapete (artistic flower carpet) created by local artisans, and a Catrina (Mexican skeleton) festival on November 2. Finally, the town is famous for its beautiful Festival of Christmas Lights, from December through early January.

Religious pilgrims visit Atlixco’s churches for seasonal festivities.

How to Get to Atlixco

By Car:

If you’re driving, you can get to Atlixco fairly easily from Mexico City. Take the Autopista (Highway) Mexico-Puebla heading southeast from the capital, and take the Atlixco exit just as you’re passing the town of San Francisco Ocotlán. It should take you 2-3 hours depending on traffic, and bring cash and coins for tolls. That said, if you’re going all the way to Atlixco, it makes much more sense to visit Puebla City, too! This state capital enchants in its own right and is well worth a night’s visit (or more). From Puebla City, just take the Carretera Federal Puebla-Atlixco, and you’ll arrive in about half an hour.

Getting to Atlixco is a breeze. Getting up the town’s steep, hilly streets, on the other hand…

By Bus:

Bus travel is an easy, stress-free way to get to Atlixco, and the method I recommend. Once again, this makes the most sense if you’re staying in Puebla City for at least a night. You can take frequent, cheap, and comfy buses from CAPU, Puebla’s main bus station, to Atlixco. They run every 10-15 minutes and are a great option. Look for the Oro bus line, and expect to pay about 35 pesos. It’ll take around half an hour, and wait til you’re at Atlixco’s tiny bus station to get off. Then just head up, following other passengers, to reach the town center.

Getting to Atlixco is easy and cheap, so there’s really no excuse not to visit. You won’t regret experiencing this charming small town — one of my favorite pueblos mágicos in the country!

How to See the Monarch Butterflies in Mexico — Before It’s Too Late

There’s never been a better time to visit the Monarch Butterfly sanctuaries of central Mexico. Despite the beloved bugs’ recent woes, this year warm temps allowed a huge number of them to migrate south! The butterfly population roosting in Mexico’s mountain forests today takes up almost 15 acres of space, with over double the number of Monarchs from last year! This doesn’t mean the “king of butterflies” won’t be threatened in the future. But until the end of March, take advantage of this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the record population. Here, I’ll give you everything you need to know to visit the best Monarch Butterflies stress-free.

All About the Monarch Butterfly’s Migration to Mexico

As a toddler in Kansas, my mom would take me outside and point out the hundreds, of Monarch Butterflies roosting in our trees. Years later in Minnesota and Michigan, we saw those same bright orange bursts of color. This time, they were fewer and farther between, fluttering by the lakes and gardens in summer. The older I got, the fewer we saw. Despite this year’s high population, researchers say we’ve lost about a billion Monarchs since 1990.

Unknowingly, as I moved around the U.S., and eventually to Mexico City, I’d followed nearly the entire path of migrating Monarch Butterflies. Every year, most Monarchs come from Southern Canada and the Northern U.S., slowly migrating all the way to Central Mexico. These are the only butterflies who migrate in this way — something much more common with birds — because they can’t survive harsh winters.

Map courtesy of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

Instead, the Monarchs winter in the oyamel fir forests of Mexico, in mountainous, temperate Mexico and Michoacán States. Here, they cluster in huge colonies, enjoying the forests’ not-too-hot, not-too-cold microclimate, humidity, and sunlight. This “super generation” butterflies can live up to nine months: often the same butterfly that leaves Canada arrives in Mexico months later! On the way back north, though, the Monarchs are much more short-lived. Most lay their eggs while passing through Central Texas and Louisiana, and it takes four or five generations to reach Canada again.

This migration is nothing short of a biological miracle. The butterflies who fly down to Mexico have never made this trip before, yet they know exactly where to go. On the route back up, four or five generations of butterflies each fly a segment of the route, following their instincts like they’re competing in an invisible relay race.

When to See the Butterflies

The Monarch Butterflies typically start arriving in these Central Mexican forests in November. A local guide in Mexico State told me that the butterflies start arriving right around Day of the Dead (November 1 and 2). Because of this, local residents have long believed that they were the “ánimas,” the spirits of their dead loved ones.

Their numbers grow as more butterflies arrive to roost in the tall, pine-like oyamel trees. The reserves you can visit in Michoacán and Mexico State open in late November. Finally, the numbers peak in January and February, and the reserves are crowded with foreign and domestic tourists. I visited in late February, and I’d recommend that time period, as the butterfly population was very high. Go on a weekday to avoid the crowds if at all possible. The butterflies usually stay into March, so you still have a chance to see them: the earlier in the month, the better.

Monarch colonies roost in the oyamel fir trees native to Central Mexico. Photograph by Merin McD.

How to Get There

The Butterfly Reserves

There are several reserves you can visit, on a day or weekend trip from Mexico City. The reserves are all within the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Property that spans over 50,000 hectares (124,000 acres). Three reserves are in Michoacán State: El Rosario (the most popular), Sierra Chincua (easy hike), and Cerro Pelón (less known). I’ve heard wonderful things about these reserves. Michoacán State, however, is listed as a Level 4 “Do Not Travel” area by the U.S. State Department. That said, I’m not familiar with any cases of insecurity for travelers in or around the butterfly reserves —it’s a personal choice. If you decide to visit these reserves, I recommend visiting or staying for one night in the beautiful, colonial “pueblo mágico” (magic town) of Angangueo.

The other main reserve is Piedra Herrada, in Mexico State, a bit closer to Mexico City. This is the reserve I visited, and although busy on the weekends, it’s very beautiful, with a large population of butterflies reached by a 40 minute uphill hike.

Arriving by Car or Bus

To reach any of these reserves, you have a few options. You can rent a car in Mexico City, which is fairly easy. Just study the route beforehand or bring a map/printed out directions, as you probably won’t have a cell signal there. The roads are fairly good and mostly paved, and there is plenty of parking.

Although it’s a more complicated option, you can also take buses to nearby towns. To get to Agangueo near the Michoacán reserves, you can take a “Zina bus” running every two hours from 6 AM to 6 PM, from the Terminal Central de Autobuses Poniente in Mexico City, at Observatorio. From there, you can take a taxi or local bus to the reserves. The same goes for visiting the Piedra Herrada reserve: from the same bus terminal, just look for ticket counters listing “Valle de Bravo” as a destination. On these buses, ask the bus driver if he can leave you directly outside the reserve, or if you need to take a taxi or local bus from the town of Valle de Bravo to the reserve. The town of Valle de Bravo is wonderful for spending the night, too. That said, these bus options are more challenging and time consuming.

Arriving with a Tour

You can also just take a simple bus tour from Mexico City, which frankly I recommend. Many bus tours simply provide comfortable transportation, and give you hours of free time at the reserve to explore. They’re also similar in price to taking the regular bus, and they’re more direct and less stressful. I took a cheap, good Espíritu Aventurero trip, and the company offers a similar trip to the Michoacán reserves. While I’m not normally a fan tours, this was a practical option for someone with no car and limited time. There will be crowds on the weekend no matter what option you choose, so a tour bus doesn’t make much difference. There are plenty of similar tours, but these were the cheapest I found.

Monarch butterflies undertake one of the world’s most miraculous migrations every year to Mexico. Photograph by Merin McD.

What to Bring on Your Visit

While the Monarch Butterfly reserves are just a couple hours from Mexico City, don’t underestimate them! They’re a world apart from the cosmopolitan, developed capital. The absolute must-bring items are cash and a face mask or thin scarf. This is because there’s no ATMs or card readers anywhere near the reserves, so you want to bring at least $600 – $700 pesos, just in case you need food, to pay bus fare, and so on. The face mask is because the reserves are extremely dusty, and you’ll need to protect your throat and nose. Sunglasses are a good idea as well, because the sun is intense, and they help protect your eyes from the dust.

Just wear shorts or jeans you don’t much care about, as they’re gonna get dirty and dusty. Bring a t-shirt and light jacket, a baseball cap or other sun hat, and good hiking boots ideally. A water bottle and packed breakfast are a great idea, since the earlier you start out, the better. Finally, if you have allergies or asthma, bring your medicine and/or inhaler, because of the dust and unfamiliar pollen.

This might sound like a lot of preparation, but it’ll be worth it — visiting the Monarch butterflies is an absolutely unique experience, and not one that I’ll soon forget!