What to See in Coyoacán: A Guide to Mexico City’s Colorful Colonia, Part 1

Nearly every visitor to Mexico City sets foot in Coyoacán. They’re drawn here for one major reason: the Casa Azul, or Blue House, iconic artist Frida Kahlo’s home and museum. While the Blue House is undoubtedly touristy, I’ll admit that it truly is a must-see. When you visit the Coyoacán neighborhood, however, you can find so much more than this one beautiful building! Beyond the Frida Kahlo Museum, you’ll uncover layer upon layer of fascinating history — from Hernán Cortés and his conquistador army, to ghostly centuries-old legends, to famous writers, directors, and even movie stars who called this place home.

A glimpse of what you can see when you venture off the well-trodden tourist path in Coyoacán.

In this Mexico City travel guide, I’ll delve into where to go and what to see in Coyoacán. I live near this stunning neighborhood, and often walk here to destress and get some much-needed quiet within the city. I’ll structure this guide as I do my own explorations: as a meandering walk through the neighborhood. Feel free to follow it when you visit Coyoacán, and let me know what you discover along the way!

This is Part 1 of the Coyoacán neighborhood guide, covering Frida and Trotsky’s homes, the market, the colonia’s center, and plentiful detours. Stay tuned in the coming weeks for Part 2! It will take you further into Coyoacán’s oldest street, Francisco Sosa, and its most iconic park.

Two Small Notes:

To use this as a walking guide, click on the purple-colored place names I’ve included throughout the article! These will take you directly to Google Maps links for each spot, so you can orient yourself. Or just write me, and I can show you around myself!
Today, Coyoacán is the name of an “alcaldía” of Mexico City: a sprawling municipality with many distinct neighborhoods. However, its center was once the ancient village of Coyoacán — spots like Del Carmen and Santa Catarina — and they’ll be my primary focus for the guides, as they form the most historic and walkable area. Many people consider this area to be the original neighborhood of Coyoacán.

Walking in the Footsteps of Frida, Diego, & Trotsky

Frida Kahlo shared this home with her husband (married two separate times) Diego Rivera for a number of years. Today, it serves as the main tourism draw in Coyoacán, and an iconic Mexico City museum.

For most of you, the Blue House will undoubtedly be your introduction to Coyoacán — perhaps even one of the main reasons you wanted to visit Mexico City! In my opinion, this is wholly justified. (My only wish is that people also explore beyond this well-known site! And, frankly, look beyond the glamorized, commercialized image of Frida that companies use to sell their products, getting to know the real, complex artist behind the image.) Even when crowded, Frida’s home is a work of art that reflects her life philosophy and immense creativity. She grew up here, and later moved back as an adult, transforming the house into an extension of Kahlo and Rivera’s boundless artistic vision.

Frida Kahlo’s house sits on the northern edge of Coyoacán. It may be hard to imagine today, as you pull off the busy highway and arrive at the museum, but when Frida was born here at the turn of the 20th Century, this was considered the very outskirts of Mexico City. Coyoacán was a sleepy, colonial village slowly being swallowed up by the capital’s expansion.

Frida and Diego’s erstwhile home actually sat in relative obscurity for decades, before Frida’s more recent “rediscovery” by the global public made it the must-see spot in Coyoacán.

Important Advice: How to Visit the Frida Kahlo Museum Stress-Free

Time and time again, my visitors in Mexico City have encountered the same issues when seeing the Blue House. Everyone wants to visit, but not many know that they should plan in advance. On multiple occasions, my visitors weren’t aware of just how popular this destination is. By the time they arrived, the museum was completely full! Because of this, I strongly recommend that several weeks before your trip, you buy tickets ahead of time here. Make sure you buy them from the official website, boletosfridakahlo.org, to avoid scams or up-charges from tour companies. If you don’t purchase in advance, there’s a good chance that tickets may be sold out when you get to the Casa Azul. I also suggest buying tickets for a weekday morning, as the afternoons and weekends are especially crowded at this famous site.

A lesser-known exhibition at the *Casa Azul* displays many of Frida Kahlo’s dresses. It’s much more than a typical “fashion” exhibit, though. Really, it presents a thoughtful and complex exploration of Frida’s life philosophy, cultural expression, and identity as a person with disabilities.

My other tip for the Frida Kahlo Museum? Many visitors miss one of its loveliest exhibits, “Appearances are Deceiving: The Dresses of Frida Kahlo.” This is a separate building within the complex, to the far right of the entrance past the gardens and pyramid sculpture. A permanent exhibition, it features dozens of pieces from Frida’s legendary wardrobe, many inspired by the Tehuana culture from Oaxaca State. Whether you’re a fashion lover or not, this part of the museum provides deep insight. It explores Frida’s disabilities, cultural identity, and politics — and how she used clothing to turn herself into a complex work of art.

More to See in Northern Coyoacán: The León Trotsky Museum

About two blocks away, you can easily visit the Leon Trotsky Museum as well. After receiving asylum from the Mexican government, Trotsky and his wife Natasha lived with Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera in the Blue House for two years. Then, perhaps due to an affair between Trotsky and Kahlo, they moved to this (appropriately) red colonial home just a stone’s throw away. The modest house is much less crowded than Frida’s home, and you can tour it in 30 to 60 minutes. (Depending on your level of interest in the highly-detailed timeline of global Communism at the entrance.) See how Trotsky lived out his last few years, reading texts and recording hours of his thoughts in the study.

The Trotsky house’s lush garden features a memorial to the Communist thinker.

Soon after, a supposed colleague — the Stalinist spy Ramón Mercader — fatally stabbed him with an ice pick in that very room, assassinating Trotsky on behalf of the Soviet Union. In the nearby bedroom, you can see bullet holes from a previous assassination attempt, led by famed Mexican muralist David Alfonso Siquieros. At the end of the self-guided tour, you can contemplate the hammer and sickle memorial in the lush patio garden. Cuban author Leonardo Padura’s novel The Man Who Loved Dogs explores this assassination and the man behind it — a fascinating read! This unassuming Little Red House is at the crux of so much global history…

Getting There

It’s easy to see this area of Coyoacán from any part of Mexico City, especially if you take care to avoid arriving or leaving during rush hour from 4-7 PM. You can take an Uber, Didi, or taxi. Most likely, you’ll arrive in 30-40 minutes from centric areas like Roma, Condesa, or Polanco. Via public transportation, you can take the Line 3 (Green) subway in the Universidad direction. Get off at the Coyoacán stop and walk several blocks through the neighborhood to arrive at the museums.

León Trotsky’s Coyoacán study, where he produced new political writings constantly — and died at the hands of Ramón Mercader and his ice pick.

Frida Kahlo tickets cost 320 pesos for foreigners. As I mentioned above, it’s best to buy them online ahead of time to avoid any hiccups. The museum is open from 10 AM – 6 PM each day, except for Wednesdays, when it opens an hour earlier. The Trotsky Museum only costs 40 pesos to enter, and you don’t need to reserve beforehand. It’s open from 10 AM to 5 PM, and sometimes offers cultural activities related to Trotsky and his work. Both museums — and, in fact, almost all museums in Mexico City — are closed on Mondays. Because of this, I’m working on a guide recommending what to do in the city on Mondays…

Detours

There’s more to see in each part of Coyoacán than I could possibly describe — and this is just Part 1 of the guide! Just across the highway (and easily reached) in the traditional Xoco neighborhood, you’ll find a lovely cemetery graced with elegant tombstones and jacaranda trees.

The *Cineteca Nacional* is one of my favorite spots in Southern Mexico City. On top of their wonderful film selection, I love enjoying a drink or dinner here, and sitting outdoors to watch a movie at the “*Cine al Aire Libre*.” During the pandemic, this was the only way I could enjoy a big-screen movie!

Right next door is the beloved Cineteca Nacional, Mexico City’s National Cinema. This modernist movie theater features fantastic Mexican films and many independent and classic movies, as well as several restaurants, cafés, and bars. (Chicha is my favorite restaurant there, try the flores de calabaza and flautas de jamaica!) It’s worth a visit for its incredible ambience, architecture, and of course a plethora of great films!

Exploring Central Coyoacán: Markets, Street Food, and Ancient History

Once you’ve finished up at the Casa Azul and Trotsky Museum, it’s time to delve into the heart of this historic neighborhood. Meander just a few blocks south from Frida’s Blue House on Ignacio Allende Street to the Mercado de Coyoacán. Because of Frida’s popularity, the market has evolved into a hybrid of tourist and local offerings. The city block-sized mercado‘s edges are lined with folkloric clothing and Frida souvenirs, but walk into its depths and you’ll still see plenty of Coyoacán residents shopping for fresh produce, household goods, plants, and supplies, as well as enjoying lunch at quick, tasty food stands.

The *Mercado de Coyoacán* is a fascinating jumble of everyday items, delicious snacks and produce, and traveler-oriented gifts, like souvenirs and artisanry. It’s a great example of what to see in Coyoacán: street food and local atmosphere alike.

This is a fun place to grab gifts for friends or family back home, including lovely woven baskets, and to sample unique fruits like mamey, granada china, and zapote negro. Of course, you can try popular Mexico City street foods like elote, esquites, and (my favorite) pambazos here as well! Be sure to bring cash (efectivo) in smaller peso bills and buy from the busiest stands, as locals know best. Keep in mind that due to the tourist presence, prices here may be inflated, and not all products are artisanal. For a better artisanry selection, I much prefer La Ciudadela Market and other vetted gift spots.

What to see in Downtown Coyoacán: Place of the Coyotes

On the weekends, Central Coyoacán becomes a gathering place for neighbors and families from all over Mexico City. They come to enjoy street food, performances, and the area’s lively atmosphere.

After the market, continue south towards Coyoacán’s center. Before the mega-city swallowed it up, Coyoacán was actually a small village on the edge of Lake Texcoco. Appreciate the Prehispanic and colonial history soaked into every cobblestone as you make your way towards the Jardín Hidalgo and Jardín Centenario, the two interconnecting plazas at the heart of Coyoacán. These central squares are home to an infinite number of historical and cultural spots. It would take me a full day to describe them all, but if this article leaves you wanting more, feel free to write me and perhaps I can show you around. I’ll try my best to bring them to life here!

Look for “Coyohuacan” in the mid-left of this map to see where modern-day Coyoacán sat near Texcoco Lake, later drained and filled in by the Spanish. Image courtesy of *Ciencia UNAM.*

Age-Old (Explosive) History and Coyohuaca Culture

If you went back even earlier in the history of Mexico City — nearly 2,000 years ago — you’d witness the volcano Xitle’s violent explosion. In fact, this decades-long eruption covered the southern valley in ash and lava. In the centuries that followed, the strong, porous dried lava — known as tezontle — became the main building material in many indigenous and Spanish constructions. As a result, you can still see this beautifully textured stone all over Coyoacán. Look for deep black rock covered in tiny holes: that’s tezontle.

Ancient, colonial, and modern Mexicans in the Coyoacán area have used *tezontle*, volcanic rock, as a durable and lightweight building material.

The Coyohuaca people, a Nahuatl-speaking culture, lived in this area for hundreds of years before the Mexica (Aztecs) conquered them. This was “the place of the coyotes,” a name still reflected in the striking fountain featuring two coyotes on the far right side of the plaza. Because the Mexica had oppressed native residents, when the Spanish arrived on Lake Texcoco’s shores in 1519 they found allies among people in Coyoacán and elsewhere.

To your right as you enter the square, there’s a long, blood-red building known as the Casa de Cortés. Today, this handsome building is the municipal headquarters for the neighborhood, but many believe that conquistador Hernán Cortés based his operations here as he plotted to conquer Tenochtitlán, the mighty Mexica (Aztec) capital just to the north. In fact, the myth-ridden structure was actually built in 1755, long after Cortés had died, by his descendants! Some history buffs still say that this piece of land — if not the building itself — was the site where Cortés and his henchmen tortured the Mexica (Aztec) emperor Cuauhtémoc, forcing him to reveal his empire’s treasures. (You can head a bit further south to the Plaza de la Conchita to see his supposed real house, shared with La Malinche. See more in my “Detours” section below!)

The *Casa de Cortés* is home to many rumors swirling around the man who “conquered” Mexico for Spain, Hernán Cortés. It stretches along the entire plaza garden.

Coyoacán’s Ghosts, from Spanish Monks to Revolutionary Soldiers

The rest of Coyoacán’s striking central square is equally packed with stories. There’s endless details to see in Coyoacán — the challenge is what to focus on. In fact, it’s quite literally a walk through centuries of Mexican history, from ancient times to the modern-day. Peek at the traditional colonia‘s parish church, the somber, stone-facade of the Parroquia San Juan Bautista.

Coyoacán’s stunning, centuries-old parish church as the sun sets. Plants sprout from its crumbling bell tower.

Inside, it’s quite lovely, and more lavish than you might expect from outside. Built in 1522, the impressive structure once held a large colonial monastery as well. The entire grounds of the Coyoacán plaza, in fact, were once part of the monastery’s gardens. Today, it remains a thriving center for community worship. Outside its doors, street performers like clowns, magicians, and indigenous dancers often share their gifts with delighted crowds — especially on the weekends.

The Coyoacán church’s ornate interior belies its relatively simple stone facade.

A Historical Eye-Spy: Stories Stretching Out in Every Direction

Right in the middle of the square, you’ll spot a pretty wrought-iron gazebo. Depending on the season, it may be adorned with a nativity scene, patriotic banners, or even marigolds during Day of the Dead. A detailed rendition of the national symbol — an eagle with a serpent in its mouth perched on a cactus — is always at the very top. French-made, the Kiosko de Coyoacán, as locals know it, was built by dictator Porfirio Díaz in 1900 to commemorate Mexican independence. Just a decade later, though, Mexicans across the country would rise up against the president and end his Porfiriato (as the leader’s reign is known) for good, initiating ten years of the bloody, civil war-like Mexican Revolution.

The unassuming *Kiosko de Coyoacán* contains so many years of Mexican history, from the “Porfiriato” dictatorship to the Revolution to present-day performances.

That takes us to the colorful facades of two classic Mexico City cantinas, La Guadalupana and La Coyoacana, just behind the church. These old-school drinking halls will take you right back to their glory days nearly 100 years ago! Squint, and you can almost see soldiers of bygone conflicts standing in the shadows, tequila and rifle in hand. La Coyoacana remains open, and while La Guadalupana closed for a while, it appears to have reopened in a limited capacity.

Cantina La Guadalupana, sadly now closed, dates back to the 1930s. The building maintains its colorful, classic feel.

Finally, if you look straight ahead, you’ll see a lovely stone archway. Remember when I said that this entire plaza was once part of the San Juan Bautista church and monastery? Those arches are what remain of the monastery’s garden walls. Try to spy the figures of shadowy monks out of the corner of your eye. In Part 2 of this guide, it’ll be time to walk through those arches and continue the journey through time!

Walk through Coyoacán’s famed archways, and venture back in time — coming in Part 2 of the neighborhood guide!

Getting There

Even if you’re not walking to downtown Coyoacán from the Frida Kahlo or Trotsky museums, it’s still pretty easy to get to the plaza. Take the subway, Line 3 (Green) towards Universidad and exit at Viveros/Derechos Humanos. Alternatively, you can take the Line 2 (Blue) towards Tasqueña and get off at General Anaya. Either way, you’ll have a 20 to 30 minute walk to the neighborhood’s lively center.

Of course, you can also take an Uber, Didi, or taxi. Just be aware that on the weekends, downtown Coyoacán’s traffic gets bad. You might actually want to get out and walk before reaching the main plaza.

Where to Eat

Whether you’re in the mood for savory, flavorful street tacos or elegant small plates, Coyoacán has a fascinating blend of foodie delights.

Central Coyoacán in bursting with food options, from casual street eats to some of Mexico City’s most elegant restaurants. On the weekends, Ignacio Allende and Aguayo streets are packed with stands, selling street food classics like elote and pambazos. For consistently excellent street-style classics, I love the Mercado de Antojitos. I’ve always had great experiences with the talented cooks at this small market — try the Michoacán-style pozole! Bring cash (pesos, of course) just in case.

When I want to show my guests a real fine-dining gem, I take them to Los Danzantes. This restaurant may have the best location and ambience in Coyoacán. It’s situated right on the main square, and candlelit evenings there are truly romantic. The menu is a mix of Oaxacan, other regional Mexican specialties, and great mezcals and wines. Just be aware that if your outdoor table’s right next to the plaza, there will be plenty of vendors and buskers.

*Los Danzantes* is an iconic part of Central Coyoacán’s restaurant scene — by no means cheap, but a fantastic option for a fancier meal.

Detours

If you have more time and want to stick around this area, there’s plenty more to see in central Coyoacán. Just off the main square, you can pop into the Museo Nacional de las Culturas Populares (Museum of Popular Culture). This small, charming building features rotating exhibitions on Mexican folk art, and often hosts festivals or bazaars on the weekends.

The *Museo Nacional de las Culturas Populares* often hosts cultural events and folklore fairs.

If you continue to the east and south, you’ll come across two more treasures of Coyoacán. First, the Centro Cultural Elena Garro is a spectacular, modernist brick-and-glass bookstore and cultural center. You (well I, at least) could spend hours exploring its collection and enjoying the in-house café. Then, just a block further south, you can visit the Plaza de la Conchita. This tiny neighborhood square is lost in time, centered by a lovely, delicate colonial church. The chapel is considered the oldest European religious building in Mexico. Historians also suspect that Malintzin (La Malinche), the indigenous translator and mistress of conquerer Hernán Cortés, once lived in a house on this plaza.

Final Thoughts

I hope you’ve enjoyed this exploration of what to see in Coyoacán! Remember, this was just Part 1. (I got a little carried away with the details, so decided to split this guide in two.) Next time, stay tuned for a deep-dive into the neighborhood’s oldest street and a stroll through its lush, sprawling park-nursery.

A little glimpse of what’s to come in Part 2…what to see in Coyoacán’s oldest area, down cobblestone streets and winding alleyways.

Mexico City’s Sensational Street Food: How to Eat Your Way Through Town

Mexico City is going through a gastronomic renaissance. The vibrant metropolis is buzzing with new restaurant openings, from flavorful international joints to revivals of. Despite all this hype — some of it well-deserved — the city’s lifeblood isn’t found in these fancy, instagrammable hotspots. It’s in Mexico City street food.

Delicious delicacies can be found is on every corner in town. Even in the wealthiest neighborhoods, a taco truck will sneak its way in, a tianguis (weekly market) or neighborhood bazaar setting up wherever it can find the space. Street food is a way of life in this city! This guide will take you through the classics you can try.

Elote and Esquites

This first go-to street food is almost too obvious to mention. Corn has been king in Mexico since ancient times, and today is no exception. (Drive six hours south of Mexico City, and you’ll arrive in Tehuacán, whose church holds the oldest corn kernels in the country.) Everywhere in the city, you’ll come across the tantalizing scent of roast corn.

Elote, the basis of Mexican street food. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

This, of course, is from elote and esquites, staples of everyday life in the country. Elote is a corn cob, either boiled or roasted, then placed on a stick. Esquites is similar, but has been boiled with poblano peppers, cut off the cob and placed in a cup to eat with a spoon. Both get a bath of crema (Mexican sour cream), lime, crumbly and salty cotija cheese, and as much or as little chile as you want. I always search out the roasted elote on the grill, as I love its charred flavor.

Best Spots to Enjoy It: Outside the Anthropology Museum on Reforma Avenue, buy tasty roast elote and enjoy it on a bench under the tree canopy, across the street in Chapultepec Forest. If you’re more adventurous, get the beloved esquites at the Mercado Jamaica flower market downtown. A famous stand there sells them made with cacahuazintle, a unique large-kerneled corn native to Mexico, and flavors them with fragrant herbs and spices. Really, however, you can enjoy this treat anywhere in the city!

Pambazos

Oh, the glory that is the pambazo, Mexico City’s legendary sandwich. My first week working in the city, my new friend took me to the tianguis (open air markets that have existed since Aztec days) that took over the street near our office every Thursday. There, we had to choose between every possible type of Mexico City street food.

A stack of sauce-soaked, crispy bread rolls awaits their flavorful filling. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Out of all this abundance, she recommended I try the pambazo. My life has never been the same…this sandwich is a uniquely chilango creation. The cook soaks bread in a tomato and chile-based sauce, then bakes it all over again. Once you order your pambazo, they’ll toss some chorizo and chopped potatoes onto the grill to cook, topping them off with crema and salsa. After that, eat up! The result is a delicious blend of textures (crunchy, soft) and flavors (spice, meatiness, acidity). Every once in a while, I get an intense craving for one of these and search out the closest street cart.

Torta de Tamal/Guajolota

Every weekday morning, Mexico City’s metro, buses, and roads fill with godinez, workers heading off to their offices. On their way through the hustle and bustle of the city, many stop for a wholesome breakfast: the guajolota, or torta de tamal. This is exactly what it sounds like: a tamale sandwich.

The *guajolota* may not be the most beautiful food, but trust me on its deliciousness. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

When I first came to the city, I thought this was a terrible idea for a food. Who’s ever eaten a tamale and thought, “I need more bread and carbohydrates on this”? And yet, that fateful day when I finally got one…I loved it. Somehow, the combo of crusty bolillo (a Mexican sandwich roll) and tamale just works, especially once salsa and even avocado or jalapeño add new textures to the mix. I only eat them every once in a while, but when I do, it’s the ultimate godín indulgence!

Atole and Champurrado

Remember how corn is king in Mexico? That extends throughout Mexico City street food, from meals (tamales) to snacks (elote) to drinks! On those bustling workweek mornings, right next to the tamale stands you’ll see vendors selling steaming cups of atole, a traditional corn-based drink. It’s sweet, with a creamy, satisfying texture that’s perfect for chilly mornings in the mountainous city. Even better is champurrado, basically atole prepared with chocolate. It’s like a thicker version of hot chocolate, and I treat myself to one every once in a while.

*Champurrado* is like a thick, filling hot chocolate. I love the one’s served in Desierto de los Leones National Park. Photo by the gringa herself.

Best Spots to Enjoy It: Just like tamales and elote, you can find this treat almost anywhere in the city every morning. That said, however, the best champurrado I’ve had is in Desierto de los Leones National Park, a lovely pine forest in the south of the city. (I have to do a whole post on this place soon.) There’s a row of little open air restaurants there, with delicious fresh champurrado and a perfect, crisp woodland atmosphere.

Camote (Mexican Sweet Potato)

Mexico City is a sensory experience: locals can take a quick glance at a picture, whiff of a certain smell, or even tune into a particular sound, and they know it’s their beloved Ciudad de México. One of the most distinctive sounds of the cityscape comes every evening around 6 pm. Sitting in my house or working at the office, I hear a long, low whistle echo through the street below. No matter where they are in the world now, chilangos remember that sound with longing and nostalgia.

*Camoteros* and their steam whistle are an iconic part of Mexico City life. Photo courtesy of Flickr.

That melancholy whistle is a relic of Mexico City’s past, passing through the 21st century metropolis. It comes from the camotero: the sweet potato vendor pushing his heavy metal cart down the streets and alleyways of the city. Inside the cart, flavorful camotes are steaming, and he releases the steam out of a chute to create the whistle sound. As a result, people know the camotero is nearby, and they can come down to buy his delicious wares. He serves the sweet potatoes with toppings like brown sugar and sweetened condensed milk. Buying his wares is not only delicious: it’s taking a step back in time, and supporting a Mexico City street food tradition.

Tacos, Quekas, Oh My! (Variations on Tortilla + Meat)

I could make an entire guide (an entire encyclopedia, in fact) just explaining the combinations of tortillas and meat you can find in this city. A famous Mexican comedian even has a joke about popular Mexico City street foods: when you boil it down to the essentials, most are a combo of tortilla, meat, beans, and salsa! But in short, here are the two most common tortilla-meat combos you’ll find in in the city. Others I don’t have space to describe in detail here include: gorditas (thick corn dough stuffed with meat), tostadas (fried hard tortilla topped with almost anything you can think of, sopes (a little corn masa circle topped with vegetables, meat, and cheese), gringas (a rare flour tortilla in Mexico City, filled with melty cheese and meat)…and oh my gosh, so many more.

Tacos:

You already know this one — small tortilla filled with meat, topped with salsa, and often white onion, cilantro, and as much lime juice as possible. But there’s endless variation within this simple template! Tacos al pastor are the most popular in Mexico City, and these spit-roasted, marinated pork tacos topped with pineapple are beloved for good reason. They came to Mexico via Lebanese immigrants at the turn of the last century. Beyond pastor, you can get chorizo (spiced sausage), arrachera (flank steak), lengua (tongue), tacos de canasta (tacos made at home and sold from baskets), even sometimes sesos (brains). And that’s only the tip of the iceberg!

Mexico City street food is incredibly diverse! I love this guide, which (if you speak Spanish) goes through the taxonomy of dishes. Photo courtesy of Pictoline.

Quesadillas:

You probably think you know what these are. Tortillas filled with melted cheese, right? Haha, think again. Mexico City street vendors very logically decided that quesadillas shouldn’t have cheese, unless specified. It’s a weird quirk of the city. Here, you have to order a “quesadilla con queso” (with cheese) if that’s what you want! Cheese or no cheese, these are tortilled stuffed with beef, chicken, etc., folded in half and fried. They’re delicious, and go by the nickname quekas.

Final note: One of the best things about Mexico City taco stands is consommé. The cook saves the delicious meat juices as he’s making beef tacos, and turns them into incredibly flavorful soup! They’ll give it to you free with your tacos. Add cilantro and lime, and enjoy. (If you’re eating barbacoa tacos, you’re in for an especially delicious consommé.)

Chilaquiles

A block from my office, godinez line up every Friday morning for a Mexico City delicacy: chilaquiles. This dish is what office workers dream about all week. A bed of crispy totopos (fresh tortilla chips) is drowned in spicy, acidic green or red salsa made especially for the chilaquiles. You can throw some chicken, flank steak, or fried eggs on top, then everything gets a dousing of chopped white onion, cotija cheese, and crema (Mexican sour cream). The flavors mix and mingle: crunchy and soft, rich and spicy, savory and sour.

For a Mexico City twist, get a torta de chilaquiles. This is literally a sandwich filled with green chilaquiles. Yes, chilangos make sandwiches out of everything! Finally, there’s an eternal debate about which are better, red or green. I’m a strong proponent for green, but try both and decide for yourself…that green is better.

Best Spots to Enjoy It: I strongly recommend you seek out a place with a big grill, where they’re cooking everything fresh and only pour the salsa on once you order. If you see a bucket full of sauce and mushy tortilla chips, stay away. I am a weekly addict at a little white cart on Berlin Street in the Colonia Juárez, in between the streets Londres and Hamburgo.

Honorable Mentions

This guide is already getting rather long, and alas, there’s so much more I could say. To sum up, Mexico City street food is truly its own universe, full of endless possibilities. If dishes can possibly be combined or remixed, someone will do it — and go viral on Facebook in the process. Here’s a few honorable mentions that didn’t make it above:

August/September brings pomegranate to every fruit stand, while winter means fresh, smooth mango. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

Jochos: A Mexicanization of the word “hot dog,” but these are so much more. Hot dogs here are often wrapped in bacon, and topped with rajas (pickled vegetables), jalapeño chiles, and chopped onions. So flavorful!

Fresh Fruit and Juices: These are another staple on every street corner. Find chopped mango, jícama, even cups of pomegranate seeds depending on the seeds, and enjoy the freshest fruit. In the mornings, stop by a juice stand and order your custom blend of fruits and vegetables, all for a buck or two. If you go to a hipster “juice bar” in Mexico City, you’re wasting money and cheating yourself.

Chicharrón: I must admit, my jaw dropped the first time I saw someone walking down the street with a giant chicharrón. These fried pork skins are sold in little pieces as a snack, but it’s especially memorable when somebody buys the skin of an entire pig for their family. Sounds gross. Absolutely fantastic.

Five Underrated Mexico City Neighborhoods You Need to Visit

All too often, foreign visitors to the capital are directed to the same Mexico City neighborhoods. From Roma to Condesa, Coyoacán to Polanco, there’s nothing wrong with these beautiful areas of the metropolis, of course. This comfort zone might be easy, but hanging around only these well-heeled colonias can have downsides. You might end up surrounded by fellow foreigners, feeling a bit isolated from the rest of the city, culture, and language — not to mention having to deal with these areas’ tourist-oriented prices.

As a result, exploring some of Mexico City’s more off-the-beaten-track neighborhoods can be profoundly rewarding. All of the areas I’m sharing here are personal favorites that not only lie outside of the tourist bubble, but also have a stunning sense of history, from colonial Nueva España to the rapid growth and conflict of the 20th Century mega-city. Whether you’re a recent transplant to Mexico City or a future visitor, I hope you fall in love with one of these spots. I’m certainly enamored with all five.

1) Chimalistac

Jacaranda season transforms Chimalistac into a spring wonderland.

I hesitated to put this Mexico City neighborhood on the list at all, let alone at the very top. Why? Because it’s my favorite. Cobblestone-lined Chimalistac, crawling with colonial ghosts and bougainvillea, is one of the most peaceful, beautiful neighborhoods in the southern half of the city. The last thing I want is for hordes of tourists to flock here, so let’s keep this little secret between you and me.

Chimalistac sits right beneath Coyoacán and east of San Ángel, but receives a fraction of the visitors of these popular spots. Above all, this is because there’s not much to “do” here: the all-residential area has almost no restaurants or shops to entertain the easily distracted. So why go? Simply put, Chimalistac is one of the loveliest places — in the world, in my rather biased opinion — for a long stroll. Every idyllic street harbors colonial homes and thoughtful gardens, stone fountains and tiny, ancient chapels.

Just beyond the gates, busy Mexico City streets roar. But by this neighborhood fountain, tranquility reigns.

History

Like many of the areas on this list, Chimalistac was once an indigenous community (connected with Coyoacán) that paid tribute to the Aztec empire just north. Under Spanish rule, the neighborhood was settled by the barefoot Carmelite religious order, before becoming a more traditional family neighborhood. Today, you can pass over the same footbridge the monks once took to cross the Magdalena River — the water is gone though, replaced by Paseo del Río avenue. Enter the neighborhood from pretty Parque de la Bombilla, and after that, just wander aimlessly through the alleyways. Every time, I discover something new and delightful.

Chimalistac is one of the least-known Mexico City neighborhoods, making it a hidden treasure.

Eat at:

La Balance, a lovely little café and bakery nestled at the start of the neighborhood. Or cross Insurgentes Sur to San Angel, and eat at the famous (and deservedly so) El Cardenal.

Must-See:

The whole neighborhood during jacaranda bloom season (February-April), especially the area near the Casa de California. After that, don’t miss La Capilla de los Secretos (the Chapel of Secrets) in the center of a cobblestone intersection.

2) Tlalpan

Tlalpan is brimming with lovely colonial churches, traditional markets, and greenery.

Many chilangos (Mexico City residents) will tell you that Tlalpan is like Coyoacán was 20 or 30 years ago. Before Coyoacán, famed home to Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky, attracted tourists from around the city and world, it was a quietly bohemian neighborhood, still carrying vestiges of the outlying village it once was.

I agree with my chilango friends: today’s Tlalpan has much of that old world charm, without the crowds or souvenir hawkers. That said, the neighborhood isn’t some copy of Coyoacán, but a storied colonia with its own vibrant heritage. While Tlalpan is a sprawling delegation of Mexico City, I’m referring here primarily to the historic center of the area. But it’s absolutely worth visiting Cuicuilco just outside the center as well — it’s the oldest archaeological site in the city!

The *Museo del Tiempo,* or Museum of Time, is one of Tlalpan’s most unique offerings.

History

Tlalpan means roughly “on solid ground,” and while the city has constantly transformed around it, in the historic center of the neighborhood you will find that sense of solidity and continuity through time. Many indigenous communities have lived in the area through the centuries, including on the site of historic Tlalpan. Like so much of Mexico City, however, the most visible vestiges of the past come from the colonial and postcolonial eras. Wander through Tlalpan’s central plaza and encounter artisans, ice cream shops, and a lovely old town hall lined with murals. The real joy of Tlalpan is simply callejoneando: walking through the plaza and side streets, picking up a paleta here and some tacos there. In short, it’s a wonderful way to spend a Sunday.

Eat at:

Barra Alipus or the neighborhood market (in a brick building just behind the town hall)

Must-See:

Casa de la Cultura “Frisaac” and the Museo del Tiempo

3) Santa María la Ribera

Santa María la Ribera’s famed *Kiosko Morisco* makes a striking centerpiece for the neighborhood.

Now let’s head north of the city center to another of my favorite Mexico City neighborhoods. Santa María la Ribera is a lively, traditional colonia famed for its central plaza, the Alameda. Not to be confused with the larger Alameda park downtown, Santa María’s tree-lined plaza is home to the Kiosko Morisco. This architectural marvel is truly a Mexico City hidden treasure. Architect José Ramón Ibarrola built the Moorish-inspired structure for the World Exposition in New Orleans in 1884. After the festivities, though, the government brought it all the way to Mexico City, where the mesmerizing Kiosko has now sat, surrounded by jacaranda trees and street life, for over a century.

Santa María la Ribera, however, is much more than just its spectacular Kiosko. Diverse architecture lines the Alameda, from the neoclassical Museo de Geología to midcentury corners. Wander out from this central point, and you’ll find charming cafés and traditional neighborhood tianguis (temporary markets) throughout the neighborhood. Come on the weekend for a profusion of food, music, and artisanry all around the plaza. Head down to the Museo del Chopo on the southern edge of the neighborhood for quirky exhibitions. (Note: the museum hasn’t yet reopened at this point in the pandemic, but you can still enjoy its steampunk-esque architecture!) The stunning modernist Biblioteca Vasconcelos library is very nearby, in Buenavista.

Further south in the *colonia,* the *Museo Universitario del Chopo* stands out for its unique architecture.

History

Inaugurated in 1861, Santa María la Ribera was Mexico City’s first formalized, planned “neighborhood.” In the early 20th Century, rich chilango barons came here to escape the city and its pandemics of old (we’re talking Yellow Fever, not Covid-19). The area slowly opened up to working-class families as the rich left for newer developments, especially after the 1985 earthquake. If you’ve seen the film Roma, the neighborhood’s Alameda was also a part of the historical “Halconazo” massacre featured in the movie.

Today, Santa María la Ribera is a fascinating jumble. Blue collar families live side-by-side with young artists, academics who’ve been here for decades, feminist punks, and yes, a smattering of hipsters.

Eat at:

Kolobok, the best (and almost only) Russian restaurant in Mexico City

Must-See:

The Kiosko Morisco

4) Mixcoac

The small and inviting Plaza Gómez Farías is one of my favorite spots for a Sunday stroll.

During the worst moments of the pandemic, when even catching a cab seemed risky, I was eternally grateful for my close proximity to a colonial slice of Mixcoac. Within walking distance of my home, I’d first cross busy, modern Insurgentes Avenue and be transported to another era. Then, the sounds of the metropolis quickly faded away, and I was left in peace to wander through the cobblestone streets of Mixcoac. It’s truly one-of-a-kind amongst Mexico City neighborhoods.

History

Mixcoac means “place of worship of the cloud serpent” in indigenous Nahuatl. In fact, you can visit a small but interesting archaeological site in the neighborhood to learn more about its Prehispanic past. Most of what you see in the historic section of Mixcoac, though, comes from the 18th and 19th Centuries. During this era, it was a separate town outside the city. Moneyed chilangos built their summer homes here, and slowly roads and streetcars connected it to Mexico City until the megapolis swallowed Mixcoac whole.

The sprawling *Parroquia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán* is a beloved neighborhood icon.

You’ll find many vestiges of the past in Insurgentes Mixcoac, the traditional part of the neighborhood. For a tranquil afternoon stroll, start at the Parroquia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, a lovely red parish church. From there, head north past the Universidad Panamericana buildings via Augusto Rodin Street. You’ll soon arrive at Plaza Gómez Farías, where another charming church and square await. Explore the surrounding streets or head to Parque Hundido to finish your walk. This “sunken” park was once the site of a brick factory — built on the factory’s dug-out foundations, it sits several meters below street level.

Eat at:

Cal & Maíz, a restaurant dedicated to bringing back native Mexican forms of maize, as well as other indigenous ingredients.

Must-See:

Plaza Gómez Farías on Sunday, so you can buy delicious pastries from the nuns outside their convent on the western edge of the plaza.

5) Azcapotzalco

In Azcapotzalco’s central plaza, even the monuments wear masks.

Of all the lovely, historic Mexico City neighborhoods on this list, I arrived at Azcapotzalco last. Due to its northerly location and industrial surroundings, this neighborhood is often overlooked. Fortunately, my dear friend Gina works here, and when I finally took her up on a long-standing invitation to visit the area, I was delighted by what I found.

If you search amidst the bustle of modern Azcapotzalco, you’ll find plenty of traces of its fascinating past. Surrounding by busy shopping streets and hawkers, the neighborhood’s Zócalo (central plaza) is an oasis of calm. Neighbors chat as they walk under arching jacaranda trees, curving around a lovely pink gazebo in the center. The sprawling Catedral de los Santos Apóstoles Felipe y Santiago Church lies along one side of the plaza — I highly recommend exploring its tree-covered grounds and peaceful chapels. From this central spot, you can also reach the busy Mercado de Azcapotzalco, which brims with fresh produce, chiles, homemade mole sauces, and even natural healers, their stands piled high with aloe vera spines and dried herbs. (Ojo: The market can get crowded and mask use, while decent, is not omnipresent. This may be a better spot to visit post-pandemic.) In general, I recommend visiting Azcapotzalco during non-peak times, to avoid busy streets.

History

Azcapotzalco is legendary — in more ways than one. The Aztecs and other Nahuatl cultures called the area “the place of the ants,” a name derived from an ancient legend. They say that the God Quetzalcóatl, disguised as an ant, stole corn from the heavens and brought this essential Mexican food to mere mortals. Azcapotzalco has always held an important place in the city, both metaphorically and physically. It’s served as a crucial link between indigenous civilizations, a colonial center, and presently, a vibrant hub where tradition and industry live side by side.

The jacaranda-lined Zócalo features a lovely pink centerpiece.

Eat at:

La Conchería, a bakery lauded city-wide for its delectable and creative concha pastries

Must-See:

The Catedral de los Santos Apóstoles Felipe y Santiago

The neighborhood’s central church grounds include this charming, minuscule chapel.

Wrap-Up

Of course, there are even more hidden treasures for you to discover around Mexico City. Likewise, the city is surrounded by many lesser-known spots in the metro area. Would you like a Part 2 to this piece featuring other off-the-beaten-track Mexico City neighborhoods soon? Or a Gringa’s Guide to the prehispanic sites around town? Comment below!

From climbing bougainvillea in Mixcoac to draped jacaranda trees in Chimalistac, these five Mexico City neighborhoods have so much charm and history on display.

The Best Mexico City Parks to Enjoy Nature, Wilderness, & Social Distancing

If I’m craving anything during the Covid-19 pandemic, it’s nature. Living in southern Mexico City, I’m fortunate to have access to several pretty, quiet neighborhoods and smallish parks for my socially-distanced walks. But while I’m grateful to be away from downtown crowds, I’ve been sorely missing “real” wilderness. You know it when you see it: sprawling parks or forests that provide true respite from the city. Spots to curl up with a good book. Places where you can no longer hear traffic, car horns, and the omnipresent voice blaring “se compran colchones, tambores, refrigeradores…”

As we cautiously navigate the nueva normalidad (new normal), many Mexico City parks are open with precautions. Indoor restaurants and shopping centers are open as well, but frankly, you won’t find this nervous gringa there any time soon. I am, however, delighted at the reopening of larger and more wild green spaces. There, we can enjoy nature while maintaining a safe distance!

Mexico City’s green spaces are full of hidden treasures, both natural and cultural.

I’ve been wanting to write about the best Mexico City parks for quite some time, and this seemed like the perfect excuse. In the following guide, I’ll be sharing as many large, wild-ish green spaces as I could find. You won’t find small to medium parks (i.e. Parque Mexico), green plazas (Plaza Rio de Janeiro) or quite highly urbanized ones (Parque Hundido, Parque La Mexicana) in this particular guide. This isn’t because they’re not gorgeous —many of them are, and I love visiting them! Rather, I’m focusing on wilderness or semi-wild green spaces where you can take a deep breath of fresh air and socially distance stress-free. After all, we need somewhere to escape our many 2021 anxieties, if only for a day.

Section A: Accessible & Semi-Urban Green Spaces

The Bosque de Chapultepec is one of Mexico City’s most popular green spaces.

First, I’ll go through a number of large Mexico City parks that many of us can access with relative ease. These are spots I normally reach walking or using public transportation, and can currently get to on bike or foot to be extra cautious. In short, these parks are in urban or semi-urban areas you can usually get to without a car, yet their size means you can still enjoy a real escape into nature.

1) Viveros de Coyoacán

The Viveros (nurseries) de Coyoacán are one of Mexico City’s loveliest parks. They provide crucial “lungs” to the south of the city, just as Chapultepec does for the center. At 39 hectares (almost 4.2 million square feet), once you walk into the park, the surrounding noises melt away. As the name suggests, the Viveros include a large tree and plant nursery. Back in 1901, celebrated engineer and researcher Miguel Ángel de Quevedo donated a single hectare of land here to start Mexico’s first forestry nursery.

The Viveros and their many varieties of trees provide one of the most relaxing, accessible park experiences for city dwellers.

Today, the Viveros are so much more. It’s still home to many young trees that will later make their way to other parks and forests around the metro area. It also has a cluster of small, family-owned commercial nurseries on Avenida Mexico. This spot between Entrances 3 and 4 gives you the chance to purchase a dazzling variety of plants and flowers. And as for the rest of the park? The Viveros are divided by types of trees. Elegant, wide paths flow between rows of towering cedars, pines, oaks, sweetgums, and many other tree types.

This most beloved of southern Mexico City parks has become a gathering place for hobbyists, who come on the weekends to practice everything from karate to yoga to theater. Just be conscious that due to its popularity, Viveros de Coyoacán can get a bit busy. Its wide paths, however, make it fairly easy to maintain distance. Go before noon or on weekdays for fewer visitors. It’s easily accessible on bike or foot if you’re heading to the Coyoacán neighborhood, as well as from the Viveros de Coyoacán metro stop.

Hours:

6 am to 5 pm everyday. Currently, only Puerta 1 is open. (Search “Viveros de Coyoacán Puerta 1” on Google Maps to find it.)

2) Bosque de Chapultepec

Twice the size of NYC’s Central Park, the Bosque de Chapultepec is often called the “lungs” of the city.

Of course, no respectable list could leave out the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s largest and best known urban park. This multi-section park stretches across the center-west of the city, sprawling over an area twice the size of New York City’s Central Park. It includes everything from perfect picnic spots to multiple (rather green-hued) lakes, a bustling zoo to a castle, Diego Rivera mosaics and murals to truly wild, towering forests.

The second section of the Bosque de Chapultepec is just as lovely, without the crowds.

I know, I know — I need to do a post only on everything Chapultepec Forest has to offer. And I will, once all of its offerings are safely accessible and up-and-running again post-Covid. Like many Mexico City parks, the Bosque is currently operating at 30% capacity. At the moment, I strongly recommend going on a weekday if possible to avoid the crowds. If this isn’t possible, stay away from the heavily-transited vendor area. I’m also a big proponent of Section II of the Bosque, which is less crowded and has so much to offer!

Hours:

6 am to 6 pm, closed on Mondays.

3) Reserva Ecológica Pedregal de San Ángel (and UNAM Botanical Garden, once re-opened)

The UNAM (National University) Botanical Garden and adjoining ecological reserve may be my favorite Mexico City parks. (Though they’ve got plenty of stiff competition on and off this list!) I love our many forests, but there’s something special to be said for the Pedregal. This southern part of the city is comprised of volcanic bedrock that formed when the volcano Xitle erupted around 11,000 years ago. (Don’t worry, it’s dormant now.) As a result, this area is home to the Pedregal, a totally unique ecosystem. Here, cooling lava formed undulating waves of porous black rock. Many of the Pedregal’s plants and animals can only live here — this reserve is quite literally keeping them alive.

The ecological reserve and botanical garden are bursting with unique and even endemic species.

In pre-Covid times, I’d take the Insurgentes Metrobus down towards La Joya, getting off at the Centro Cultural Universitario stop. From there, it’s fairly easy to walk up the road to the botanical garden entrance and/or different parts of the large reserve. As of February 2021, however, the botanical garden itself is still closed. You should be able to access the ecological reserve from its external entrances. Please let me know if you have any issues, so I can update this guide ASAP! Even if the main gates are closed, however, you can enjoy parts of the Pedregal environment simply walking near the Centro Cultural Universitario (Campus Cultural Center) and on the tranquil road leading to the botanical garden. Both the garden and reserve are fantastic spots for birdwatching in the city.

The Pedregal and surrounding areas contain some of the best spots for birdwatching in Mexico City.

Hours:

The Reserva, located around different parts of the UNAM campus, doesn’t have hours. You can access some parts via gates, and other simply walking around the campus and cultural center. The Botanical Garden is currently closed and I will update as soon as re-opening plans announced.

4) Bosque de Tlalpan & Parque Nacional Fuentes Brotantes

If you find yourself in the south of the city, the Bosque de Tlalpan and nearby Fuentes Brotantes National Park are sprawling, verdant oases of green. Both areas are beloved by runners and picnickers alike. The Bosque de Tlalpan is a standout for me, as it’s fairly accessible even for a car-less grinxicana such as I.

These two Mexico City parks are relatively close to one another. While they have entrances near the Insurgentes Sur Metrobus and other public transport, many families also drive to the parks. Tlalpan is my particular favorite because the green space remains remarkably well-maintained. Clean, well-marked paths lead up and around the foothills. Head here even on the weekend, and you’ll find a wide variety of walks and hikes for every skill level, with plenty of places to socially distance and lose yourself in nature. Fuentes Brotantes is a bit closer to the hills of the Ajusco mountain range, and has both highly developed spots (food stands, a small lake) and wilder areas.

Image courtesy of Fuentes Brotantes de Tlalpan

Hours:

The Bosque de Tlalpan is open from 5 am to 5 pm. The only current access point is the main Camino de Santa Teresa entrance. Fuentes Brotantes National Park is open from 9 am to 6 pm. You can access it via the main entrance on Avenida de las Fuentes. Check out some of the wildlife you can find in Fuentes Brotantes here.

5) Parque Bicentenario

If you’re looking for some green space with a heavy dash of inspiring urban renewal, check out one of Mexico City’s youngest parks, the Parque Bicentenario. The story of the Bicentenario is just as interesting as the park itself. Situated in the middle of a bustling working class, semi-industrial area of Azcapotzalco in northern Mexico City, this large park began its life as a Pemex Oil Refinery! Over the years, the refinery closed. The city was faced with the challenge of what to do with the huge industrial space left behind.

In honor of Mexico’s bicentennial celebrations, leaders decided to rehabilitate the ex-refinery into the urban green space that surrounding neighborhoods desperately needed. Today, many of the Bicentenario’s trees are still young and have some growing to do. However, the park already bursts with innovative and much-loved spaces for local families, and it will only improve from here. Check out the different Mexican regional ecosystems just inside the entrance (some are closed off during the pandemic). Then explore the huge fields that stretch beyond, include a large artificial-but-pleasant lake, winding walking paths, a small museum, a skate park, and many picnic spots.

Hours:

Parque Bicentenario is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 7 AM to 6 PM. The main entrance is just across the street from the Refinería Metro stop. My only note here is that mask use wasn’t as good as in other parks. That said, the large open spaces mean you can give others a wide berth.

6) Bosque de Aragón

Located in a heavily urban, working class area of the city, the Bosque de San Juan de Aragón (the Aragon Forest) doesn’t always get the credit it’s due. Since 2015, the city has been revamping the park to restore its full natural and cultural beauty. This green space is vast and diverse, covering 162 hectares (over 17 million square ft.) of Mexico City’s east. Aragón has a storied history: it once formed part of Lake Texcoco, the large body of water upon which ancient Tenochtitlan sat. When the Spanish arrived, they built a hacienda around the area, named after Captain Blas López de Aragón.

These days, the park is popular with runners and fun-seeking families alike for its many trails and well-known zoo. Even migratory waterbirds love Aragón. Herons, ducks, and many other species flock here every year as if deep in their DNA, they still remember when this was part of Lake Texcoco. In “normal” times (pre-Covid), the park puts on many cultural activities, from music to movies.

Hours:

6 am to 6 pm; enter on the Avenida José Loreto Fabela, Colonia San Juan de Aragón. Take the same precautions you would in any large, heavily urbanized green space, avoiding deserted spots and lonely hours of morning and night.

Section B: Wilder Green Spaces

Now let’s look at some great parks that are a little more out-of-the-way. These spots are mostly around the city’s southern mountains and waterways. Here, you can get spectacular views and truly fresh air, often without the crowds. The trade-off is that having a car makes accessing these spaces much, much easier. They’re ideal for day trips, so pack a picnic lunch and get going!

1) Parque Nacional Desierto de los Leones

When I first arrived in Mexico City, I headed to Desierto de los Leones with a few friends on a whim. When we arrived after winding up and up a mountain, I couldn’t believe we were still in Mexico City. This immense, breathtaking national park covers a swath of the southern mountains. After you pass the park’s entrance (and a big pack of very fit mountain bikers), you’ll reach the exconvento, a whimsical stone monastery nestled among the pines.

No visit to Desierto de los Leones would be complete without seeing the stunning colonial monastery.

Visit the monastery (the guided tours are fascinating) and hike through the surrounding paths, which lead you to several crumbling hermitages if you follow the creepy “monk” symbol on the old-school park signage. There are plenty of places to get food and drink, as well as grills and picnic tables. Desierto de los Leones has a truly unique, fairy tale atmosphere. If you’re anything like me, you might just fall in love with the place.

The vast park is a popular spot for picnics, mountain-biking, and even horse-riding.

Hours:

The park itself is open Tuesdays through Sundays, 8 am to 5 pm, but the monastery doesn’t open until 10 am. You can take a rideshare car here…but good luck ordering one to get back, as there’s no cell coverage! For best results, drive your car or rent one, following Waze directions south and further south, with the destination “Exconvento Desierto de los Leones.” Bring petty cash for the monastery, food, and parking.

2) Parque Nacional Cumbres del Ajusco

This humungous national park covers an even larger bit of the southern mountains, this time the Sierra del Ajusco. Ajusco comes from an indigenous Nahuatl word meaning roughly “the place of flowers, from which water springs”. The indigenous peoples of the area knew this area’s value long ago: the Ajusco mountain range is the source for much of Mexico City’s water.

You can see the iconic Pico de Águila, Mexico City’s highest peak, from many spots in the Ajusco.

Today, many indigenous people continue to call the Ajusco home, dedicating their communities to its preservation. One such effort is the Parque Ejidal San Nicolás Totolapan, the best-known communally owned park in the Ajusco. Covering 2300 hectares (8.8 square miles) of forested mountain, the park charges a small cash fee ($30 pesos the last I’ve seen) to enter. As in many of the area’s green spaces, it can get crowded around the entrance on the weekends, especially around the food and diversion areas. Hike up the mountain paths for both peace and a safer, socially distanced experience.

Hours:

Enter the Parque Ejidal San Nicolás Totolapan from 8 am to 6 am. It’s at Km 11, Picacho-Ajusco 5, Panoramica, but just put its name in a navigation app for a fairly easy trip up, up, and up! A car or round-trip taxi will save you a lot of stress here.

3) Xochimilco’s Wild Side

Many know Xochimilco for its touristy, crowded canals packed with colorful trajinera boats, booze, and mariachis. That’s not ideal for worriers like me in these pandemic times — although I feel deeply for all those who work in tourism there and have had to seek alternatives in 2020 and 2021. But Xochimilco is much more than chelas and La Llorona shows.

Image courtesy of the Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco, once of the most unique Mexico City parks.

In reality, it’s a vast, endangered wetland that provides a crucial home for endemic species and a livelihood for indigenous communities. When you’re ready for something very different from the pine and oyamel-covered mountains, drive or ride down to the Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco, or even the peripheral Bosque de Nativitas, for a taste of this singular ecosystem. In the former, you’ll discover canals and chinampas (agricultural islands), herons and ajolotes, ancient traditions and sunrise views of the volcanoes.

Hours:

9 am to 6 am, enter the Parque Ecológico (Ecological Park) at Periférico Oriente #1 in Colonia Ciénega Grande. In addition, several tour providers offer small-group visits to the park with Covid-19 precautions, including Aztec Explorers.

4) Los Dinamos & La Marquesa

For a beautiful natural experience within the city, you barely need to go past Six Flags before you reach Los Dinamos. Quite a bit further afield, La Marquesa is just outside the city in Estado de Mexico (Mexico State). I grouped these two parks together not because they’re right next to each other, but because they occupy similar places in the hearts and minds of many chilangos. Both have a big jumble of nice, natural green spaces and very family-oriented, crowded areas for food, games, and other outdoor activities. You can even fish for trout and eat it for lunch, though it will come from a very crowded pond that makes it basically impossible not to catch a fish!

My main reservation in recommending Los Dinamos and La Marquesa is that they can get quite crowded on the weekends. But like so many areas on this list, if you get off the beaten track and explore either parks’ trails, chances are you’ll leave the crowds behind.

Hours:

Los Dinamos is open from 6 am to 6:30 pm, while you can visit La Marquesa from 7 am to 7 pm. You can reach either quite easily by car by entering their names into Waze; bring cash for parking and other expenses. Be safe, don’t wander into isolated areas alone, and try not to bring many valuables.

Mexico City is packed with beautiful green spaces, like Section II of the Bosque de Chapultepec (shown here).

At the end of the day (or rather the post), keep in mind that this is still just a small cross-section of Mexico City’s many outstanding green spaces! This article kept getting longer, and at some point I have to limit my endless enthusiasm. That doesn’t mean, however, that you shouldn’t check out areas like the Bosque de Tlahuac, Parque Tezozómoc, Parque Nacional Cerro de la Estrella, and the slightly smaller parks I mentioned in the intro!

Nevertheless, I tried to focus on the parks that have brought me the most peace and joy during my years in Mexico City. Most of all, these are areas where you can socially distance with relative ease, expect to see others with masks, and in several cases, receive hand sanitizer and a temperature check at the entrance. Now more than ever, it’s important to stay safe in and out of our beloved green spaces.

Beyond the Zócalo: What (Else) to Do in Mexico City’s Historic Center

Many visitors to Mexico City head straight to the Zócalo, in the historic center — the metropolis’s most famous plaza since Aztec times. While they may be impressed by its monumental scale and fascinating history, they probably also feel overwhelmed.

Without a doubt, the Zócalo is an amazing place. But both this huge main square and the historic center that surrounds it can be crowded and confusing, especially if you don’t know where to go. Without insider info, many leave feeling the area is chaotic and stressful. Yet I’ve guided many visitors through the historic center happily!

The Zócalo is undoubtedly a must-see in Mexico City’s historic center. Yet there’s so much more to experience!

I absolutely love the historic center of Mexico City. Pulsating with life, color, and history, it’s the true heart of the mega-city. The Aztecs once paddled canoes through canals here — now paved streets. Spanish conquistadors, kings, emperors, populists, and paupers roamed alongside Chinese immigrants, French invaders, and American imperialists of past centuries. Once you know where and when to go, I’m certain that you’ll fall in love with the area too. Without further ado, I’d like to share my guide to the historic center’s most magical spots, far beyond just the Zócalo. The neighborhood is full of incredible spots few tourists ever get to see!

Have an Old-School Breakfast at El Cardenal

The historic center of Mexico City isn’t just an area for tourists. The neighborhood is still home to long-time residents, offices, and lots and lots of government buildings, from federal departments to the capital’s congress. This means lots and lots of politicians and officials! And where do they all do business in the morning? El Cardenal, a fantastic, old school downtown restaurant.

El Cardenal is one of the historic center’s most iconic restaurants, and for good reason. Photo courtesy of Restaurante El Cardenal.

Regular folks come here too, of course. But El Cardenal has a special vibe, with its classic interior always filled with politicians having hours-long breakfast meetings, “ladies who lunch” gossiping as they feast on Mexican sweet breads, and businesspeople engaged in intense discussion over a café de olla. On top of all that, El Cardenal has one of the best breakfasts in Mexico City. Treat yourself to fabulous eggs and one of their famous conchas (a sweet breakfast roll), or come a little later to lunch on mole with chicken.

Travel Back in Time at the Plaza de Santo Domingo

Just a few blocks away lies the Plaza de Santo Domingo, one of Mexico’s oldest and most atmospheric public squares. Few tourists spend much time here, if at all. But it’s well worth dedicating an hour or two to explore the plaza’s cultural treasures! For me, Santo Domingo represents the heart of the historic center of Mexico City.

The Plaza de Santo Domingo has retained its traditional air since colonial times. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Here, time seems to stand still. Centuries-old church and monastery buildings line the square, while tamale and elote vendors hawk their wares. Before these Spanish edifices were built, this very square was home to the Aztec emperor Cuauhtémoc. Under the portales, the covered stone arches that line one side of the plaza, sits a row of lovely wooden booths, each adorned with its own hand-painted sign. These are little open-air stationary shops, selling cards and decorative papers.

But hints remain of their original purpose; many of the stands have a little desk with an old typewriter perched on it. Since colonial times, the Plaza de Santo Domingo was home to scribes who would write letters and contracts for the population, mostly illiterate then. This practice slowly evolved into these charming stands, where you can still get a document drawn up if need be. It’s truly a slice of Mexico City’s past that remains relevant today.

Admire Stunning Murals by Some of Mexico’s Greatest 20th Century Artists

Palacio Nacional

Many visitors to the historic center head straight to the Palacio Nacional (National Palace), right by the Zócalo. There, you can admire a gorgeous mural by Diego Rivera, spread across an entire staircase and depicting Mexican history from the Conquest to the Revolution. And it’s free! That said, however, the staircase seems to be closed off at the moment, making it hard to see the mural’s details.

Fortunately, the Palacio Nacional is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the historic center’s murals. After the Mexican Revolution, the newly progressive government invited many artists to cover public buildings in their art. The results are spectacular: one of my favorite things about Mexico City! All this gorgeous art, free and open to the public.

Secretary of Public Education

The best of these projects is in the Secretary of Public Education, right on the Plaza de Santo Domingo. Once a colonial monastery, this became HQ for Mexican education policy in the 1920s — and officials asked Diego Rivera to adorn the building with his murals. The effect is breathtaking. The elegant archways and stone walls of this ancient building are covered in murals, rising up three floors and stretching around a garden courtyard. Rivera’s murals cover Mexican traditions and artisanry on the lower level, while the third floor shows the country’s revolution. Look for “The Orgy”, a very entertaining mural depicting the lifestyle of the wealthy in Mexico City’s Roaring Twenties, and the final mural near the staircase, which depicts revolutionary communist workers and sneaks in Frida Kahlo!

Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso

Another lovely example of these public murals is the Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso, a historic center museum. The Colegio is another beautiful colonial building, which was once a school (consequently, its name, “The Old Academy of Saint Idelfonso”). Today, it features rotating exhibitions, but the star of the show is the architecture itself, bedecked with wonderful murals by the “Three Greats” of the 20th Century: Diego Rivera, David Alfonso Siquieros, and José Clemente Orozco. It’s open until 7 p.m., so it’s a great last stop of the day. They light the murals up once it starts getting dark, making the Colegio even more atmospheric!

In short, the Antiguo Colegio is a great place to familiarize yourself with the work of all three famed artists, the Secretary of Public Education is perfect for a deep dive into history amongst exquisite surroundings, and the Palacio Nacional for a quicker peek into both art and history. Make sure to bring an ID for officials at these buildings’ entrances.

Get a Taste for the Gourmet and the Strange at the Mercado de San Juan

There are many markets in the historic center, and it can be overwhelming to choose between them, or even know where to go. Since Aztec times, people from throughout Mesoamerica flocked here to sell their wares, trading valuable cacao and shells for obsidian, quetzal feathers, and precious metals. In the 2020s, this practice continues with tianguis (temporary markets) that pop up around the city, and lively neighborhood markets.

Of the many historic center markets, the Mercado de San Juan is perhaps the most unique. That is to say: you’ll probably never go to another market quite like this one. Mercado de San Juan is Mexico City’s go-to spot for exotic ingredients, frequented by top chefs and adventurous home cooks alike. Here, you’ll find fruits from Asia and South America alongside delectable insects, strange meats, and friendly, knowledgable vendors. Likewise, some vendors will cook you dishes that are just as unique. It’s a literal taste of Mexico City’s diverse heritage and modern cosmopolitanism.

Enjoy a Romantic Dinner By Candlelight at Azúl

Azul is undoubtedly one of the city’s most atmospheric, romantic restaurants.

As you’re winding down your day in the historic center, it can be tough to decide where to eat. This area has everything, from hole-in-the-wall taquerías (here’s a list) to contemporary fine dining (Limosneros). For me, however, nowhere compares to the ambience and sheer mexicanidad of Azul Histórico. Set within the courtyard of yet another colonial building, this restaurant is unbelievably beautiful.

Trees grow through the floor and rise up several stories, bedecked with glowing candles that create a magical atmosphere. The menu is a veritable tour of regional Mexican cuisine, with excellent seasonal specialties, domestic wines, and desserts. During your meal, I urge you to order the Tortilla Soup. Don’t ask why…you won’t regret it. (One final note: I do recommend calling and making a reservation. If you don’t, they’ll probably tell you the wait is an hour. I’ve never waited that long though! Sit it out, and within 30 minutes I bet you’ll have a table.)

Tips for Visiting the Historic Center of Mexico City:

Go During the Work Week: If at all possible, visit the historic center from Tuesday through Friday. During the weekends, it gets packed with locals shopping and enjoying the area — I mean really packed. I never take people here on the weekend, especially Sunday! And on Mondays, it’s tranquil, but all the museums are closed, including the Templo Mayor in the Zócalo. It’s nice during the rest of the week — I recommend going around 10-11 a.m., so you avoid the city’s morning rush hour.

Go to the historic center on a weekday, and find (relative) peace and tranquility.

Be a Bit Careful With Your Belongings: The center isn’t a “dangerous” area of Mexico City, but due to its high numbers of tourists and bustling feel, it has the highest rates of pickpocketing in the city. I’ve never had any issue, but I watch my things carefully. Keep them in a zipped bag in front of you, and just watch out if you’re taking snapshots.

Appreciate the Layers of History: Alas, our time in the historic center has come to a close. There are so many more places I’d like to share with you…sigh, I’ll save them for future posts. Mexico City’s historic center is, above all, a place of contrasts: modern big box stores inside colonial edifices, the hustle and bustle of a 21st century megacity amidst the ruins and palaces of past empires. The Pino Suárez metro station, for instance, reflects contemporary chaos, yet holds an Aztec pyramid within its depths. Layers upon layers of history collide here, and the more time you spend in this captivating neighborhood, the more you’ll discover.

Pilgrimage of the Bird-Sellers: A Tradition of Semana Santa in Mexico City

Mexico offers many of the most vivid, lively, and passionate Holy Week celebrations in the world. This holiday week, called Semana Santa in Mexico City and around the country, forms the week before Easter Sunday. It’s one of the most important holidays of the year in Mexico, a heavily Catholic country, and it shows. I began my Holy Week celebrations on Palm Sunday with a unique pilgrimage to the Basilica of Guadalupe. Every Palm Sunday, hundreds of pajareros, the traditional bird-sellers of Mexico, come from around the country to this famous basilica to bless their birds and businesses. The result is a surreal, unimaginably vivid sight.

The bird-sellers wait to enter the basilica for mass.

Palm Sunday at the Basilica of Guadalupe

The centuries-old Basilica of Guadalupe draws millions of pilgrims every year to worship Mexico’s Virgin of Guadalupe. I’ll have to do a post soon on the Basilica itself; there is too much to explain here! It’s the site where the Virgin of Guadalupe appeared to Juan Diego, an indigenous convert, in colonial times. Today, 12 million people come every year to behold the manta, the blanket, on which the Virgin’s image miraculously appeared. Palm Sunday was lively with worshippers from all over, including several I met from the Ivory Coast, and a group of Mexican cowboys who had ridden there on horseback.

The Basilica of Guadalupe is lively with worshippers on Palm Sunday.

The Basilica and the Bird-Sellers: A Mini-History

But for decades, Palm Sunday has meant one thing for the basilica: the pajareros, the bird-sellers. Over a century ago, there were thousands of bird-sellers all around the country, and one, they say, on every street corner in Mexico City. In colorful cages, they sold domestic and wild-caught songbirds, from parakeets to robins — popular pets at the time. This year (2019) marked the 77th anniversary of the bird-sellers’ pilgrimage to the basilica.

The pajareros create elaborately decorated bird cages to be blessed.

Today, songbirds are much less popular, and especially amid increased awareness for animal rights, the bird-sellers are slowly dying out. But this traditional profession lives on for some families, who have passed it down through the generations. On Palm Sunday, they arrive from throughout the country, walking up the long Calzada de Guadalupe until they arrive at the Basilica. Their colorful, incredibly tall cages strapped to their backs, birdsong fills the air.

Bird-selling is a long-standing tradition throughout Mexico, though it’s greatly declining these days.

The Ethics of Bird-Selling

Now, let’s get this out of the way: I don’t condone this kind of bird-selling, especially of those that are wild-caught. The birds are not for sale on Palm Sunday — the bird-sellers are forbidden from selling them in the Basilica grounds. But regardless, I have very mixed feelings about this practice in the modern-day.

Many pajareros bring photos of their parents or grandparents, to honor them and the family tradition.

That said, no matter what you think of its ethics, bird-selling has played an important traditional role in Mexico. I met families who’d brought their babies with them, strapping a tiny cage onto his back with tiny toy birds inside. Four generations of bird-sellers in the family were represented there, and others had placed photos of their deceased fathers, bird-sellers themselves, as a touching tribute on the cages.

Many families have passed on this calling for several generations.

The Artistry of the Pajareros

On top of all that, the artistry, passion, and creativity the pajareros put into these 10-foot-tall cages is unbelievable. You couldn’t imagine a more surreal scene: with an explosion of color and song all around, I couldn’t help but feel joy at that aspect of the pilgrimage. Pajareros paint every cage vividly and decorate them with thousands of flowers. These must have taken their creators a long time to make. Of all the celebrations I saw during Semana Santa in Mexico City, this was perhaps the most unique.

I know why the caged bird sings — this complicated practice invokes mixed emotions.

Finally, all this to say: it’s complicated. It made me sad to see many, many kinds of birds in cages, from exotic ones to common songbirds I’ve seen free in my Midwest backyard. There’s no getting around that. But I also appreciate the beautiful aspects of this long-standing tradition, especially the bird-sellers’ remarkable creativity. At the end of the day, I reserve my full judgement, because this is a way of life, and a way to make a living, for families who have passed this job from father to son, and mother to daughter. Do I hope songbird-selling continues, anywhere in the world? Probably not. But I hope this beautiful pilgrimage finds a way to survive and adapt, as societal values shift and evolve.

It’s easy to head north in Mexico City and visit La Villa, where the basilica sits.

How to See the Pajarero’s Pilgrimage

When:

This event takes place on Palm Sunday, which of course will vary every year. In fact, this day marks the beginning of Semana Santa in Mexico City. The Spanish name for the Catholic holiday is Domingo de Ramos. The pajareros get together in the morning, starting around 9 or 10 AM, but they don’t arrive at the basilica until around noon. That’s when I recommend arriving at the basilica to see them.

Pilgrims come from around the world to worship the Virgin of Guadalupe at the basilica.

Where:

The pajareros begin at the Glorieta de Peralvillo, a roundabout where the Calzada de Guadalupe begins. This is the long avenue that leads up to the Basilica de Guadalupe, and where pilgrims walk to the basilica. It’s a long walk, and I recommend you go straight to the basilica to see them. You can tell any cab or Uber driver “Basilica de Guadalupe”, and they’ll take you there — around 25 minutes from downtown, way to the north. The red Line 6 of the metro goes straight there, to the Basilica stop; or take the more centric green Line 3 to the Deportivo 18 de Marzo stop, and walk east for 10 mins to get there. The green line 7 of the Metrobus (the big red buses you’ll see in cordoned-off areas of major avenues) also goes there, getting off at the Garrido Stop.

Another touching tribute to a relative who’s passed away.

Above all, this is a day about tradition, creative expression, and family ties. It was clear to me that many bird-sellers were passionate about their professions, and took care of their small charges. Whether you find this tradition charming or outdated, it’s a memorable and fascinating experience. Most of all, this experience gave me insight into the complex contradictions of modern Mexico.

Spring Has Sprung: The 5 Best Spots to Enjoy Mexico City’s Blooms

It may sound overdramatic, but Mexico City spring is genuinely magical for me. Every walk outside brings new little joys: nooks and crannies filled with bougainvillea, climbing nasturtiums, and shady canopies of jacaranda. The other day, I took a ride down the segundo piso, the city’s raised highway, heading south. The high platform affords you panoramic views of the city, but this time, all I could look at were the purple tops of the jacaranda trees. Thousands of them bloom in every corner of the city during March and April, and I enter my personal heaven.

Let’s be honest — it’s spring in Mexico City all year round. But “real spring,” after a sunny and dry winter, does bring an amazing abundance of new blooms and clear skies. Here, I’ve narrowed down the best spots to experience Mexico City spring. Enjoy (I urge you, unironically and enthusiastically), the magic!

1. Botanical Garden of the Bosque de Chapultepec

Nestled just off busy, flower-lined Reforma Avenue, this Botanical Garden is the best place to see a lovely variety of spring flowers. It’s inside the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s Central Park, so really the garden is an oasis within an oasis. The plant varieties change throughout the seasons, and spring brings an explosion of blooms from around Mexico and the world.

2. Parque México

For Mexico City locals, springtime means one thing: jacaranda trees. These purple-hued flowering trees are so prolific in the city, many think they’re native plants. In fact, jacarandas most likely came to Mexico City from Manaus, Brasil. The tree arrived at the gulf port of Veracruz, slowly making its way from garden to garden, all the way to the capital!

The arrival of the jacaranda blooms, carpeting Mexico City in rich purple petals, unequivocally signals spring.

Today, its spectacular purple blooms carpet the city every spring, and make my heart very, very happy. In leafy Parque México in the La Condesa neighborhood, dozens of jacaranda trees line the street, littering sidewalks and grass with their petals until the whole park is purple. Spend a lazy weekend afternoon here, with a coffee and a good book on the patio at Caffé Toscano. You will not regret it.

3. The Side Streets of Coyoacán

For me, often the best way to enjoy a warm spring day is to pick some place in the city I know, start walking in whatever direction looks prettiest, and see where I end up. That’s how I found myself on Francisco Sosa Avenue in Coyoacán one March afternoon. I’ve always loved Coyoacán, the southern neighborhood where Frida Kahlo lived, for its small-town, bohemian atmosphere. But when I stumbled onto this street and its surroundings, I arrived at another level of beauty and charm.

Coyoacán’s narrow cobblestone streets, colonial houses, and overflowing gardens make for one of the best spring walks in Mexico City.

From the center plaza (Jardín Centenario) of Coyoacán, head west along Avenida Francisco Sosa, towards the Viveros de Coyoacán. You can explore the Viveros, a lovely park that grows many of the young trees and plants that end up in other parks. But don’t miss the side streets themselves. This part of the neighborhood really does feel like an old, colonial village, riddled with narrow cobblestone alleyways. Bougainvillea and lush vines spill over everything, while plenty of jacarandas provide shade from the spring sun.

4. The Alameda Central

Nowhere evokes classic, turn-of-the-century Mexico City more than the Alameda Central. Among the stately trees and monuments, you can easily imagine elite defeños (those born in Mexico City) strolling down the main promenade in centuries past. In fact, the Alameda is the oldest public park in the Americas! The park forms a long, splendid walkway through downtown, in between Juarez and Hidalgo Avenues. The area was once an Aztec marketplace, and after the Spanish conquest, Mexico City’s new rulers established the park in 1592. They named it for the álamos, or poplar trees, that fill the park.

Mexico City’s center has plenty of wonderful spring spots too, from the Alameda to lovely Roma neighborhood, shown here.

But for many decades now, the Alameda has been best known for the other famous tree that grows here: the jacaranda, of course. This is one of the undisputed best spots to see the purple blooms, and aerial shots of the Alameda show the full, spectacular effect.

5. The Bosque de Tlalpan

Finally, I encourage you to experience the wilder side of Mexico City spring and get a bit off-the-beaten track at the Bosque de Tlalpan. This expansive protected forest sits in the south of the city, providing much-needed green space among the fresh air and foothills. The Bosque de Tlalpan is best-beloved for its towering bougainvillea plants, showering the paths with magenta petals. On Sundays, head to the church at the entrance of the forest for a weekend market, pick up some fresh produce and homemade ice cream, and venture in for a spring picnic.

Mexico City’s several bosques (forests) are fantastic spring spots, from the Bosque de Chapultepec shown here, to the Bosque de Tlalpan.

This is not a comprehensive list by any means — there are hundreds of fantastic spots to experience Mexico City spring. But I hope these inspire you to explore: just pick a Point A and start walking!

Two Small Notes:

Walking in the Footsteps of Frida, Diego, & Trotsky

*Important Advice*: How to Visit the Frida Kahlo Museum Stress-Free

More to See in Northern Coyoacán: The León Trotsky Museum

Getting There

Detours

Exploring Central Coyoacán: Markets, Street Food, and Ancient History

What to see in Downtown Coyoacán: Place of the Coyotes

Age-Old (Explosive) History and Coyohuaca Culture

Coyoacán’s Ghosts, from Spanish Monks to Revolutionary Soldiers

A Historical Eye-Spy: Stories Stretching Out in Every Direction

Getting There

Where to Eat

Detours

Final Thoughts

Elote and Esquites

Pambazos

Torta de Tamal/Guajolota

Atole and Champurrado

Camote (Mexican Sweet Potato)

Tacos, Quekas, Oh My! (Variations on Tortilla + Meat)

Tacos:

Quesadillas:

Chilaquiles

Honorable Mentions

1) Chimalistac

History

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2) Tlalpan

History

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3) Santa María la Ribera

History

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4) Mixcoac

History

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5) Azcapotzalco

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Wrap-Up

Section A: Accessible & Semi-Urban Green Spaces

1) Viveros de Coyoacán

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2) Bosque de Chapultepec

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3) Reserva Ecológica Pedregal de San Ángel (and UNAM Botanical Garden, once re-opened)

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4) Bosque de Tlalpan & Parque Nacional Fuentes Brotantes

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5) Parque Bicentenario

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6) Bosque de Aragón

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Section B: Wilder Green Spaces

1) Parque Nacional Desierto de los Leones

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2) Parque Nacional Cumbres del Ajusco

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3) Xochimilco’s Wild Side

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4) Los Dinamos & La Marquesa

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Have an Old-School Breakfast at El Cardenal

Travel Back in Time at the Plaza de Santo Domingo

Admire Stunning Murals by Some of Mexico’s Greatest 20th Century Artists

Palacio Nacional

Secretary of Public Education

Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso

Get a Taste for the Gourmet and the Strange at the Mercado de San Juan

Enjoy a Romantic Dinner By Candlelight at Azúl

Tips for Visiting the Historic Center of Mexico City:

Palm Sunday at the Basilica of Guadalupe

The Basilica and the Bird-Sellers: A Mini-History

The Ethics of Bird-Selling

Important Advice: How to Visit the Frida Kahlo Museum Stress-Free