As a die-hard fan of gringo supermarket Trader Joe’s and its glorious selection of prepared foods, moving to Mexico was a big shock to my system. The first time I entered a Mexico City freezer section, I nearly wept. I found a couple frozen pizzas, lots of ice cream, and a few breakfast foods. Things have improved a bit since then. This is still a city with zillions of talented home cooks and street food vendors, though. Here, many still see frozen prepared food as an option of last resort. (P.S. Obviously, I love Mexico City cuisine, or I wouldn’t still be here! Still, I do sometimes crave some delicious prepared food, especially with global flavors.)
Fortunately, while wandering through my neighborhood last fall, I discovered Había una Res. This lovely café and shop features pre-prepared meals and frozen ingredients from South America. This article is in no way sponsored, by the way — I just love the place! The unique store opened in the middle of the pandemic (last July) in a quiet part of Colonia del Valle. As a result, I wanted to help this under-the-radar shop connect with my fellow foreigners. If you’re anything like me, you’re craving the different flavors of international cuisine. And if you can make the dishes as easily as anything from Trader Joe’s, Picard Surgelés, or Planet Organic (depending on where you’re from), so much the better.
The Mexican & South American Story of Había una Res
After months of enjoying their Venezuelan arepas, Colombian cheeses, and fresh passionfruit juices, I finally sat down with the café/shop’s owners for a Sunday afternoon coffee. A few weeks ago, I chatted with twin founders Bárbara and Paola Pérez Galicia, as well as Bárbara’s husband, Gerardo Velázquez de León — all native chilangos. As I sat in their cozy café space surrounded by murals (painted by the sisters), they told me the story of how Había una Res came to be.
Paola lived in Colombia for nearly a decade, falling in love with its food and culture. Still, when she came across a Mexican restaurant or ingredient there, a wave of nostalgia would wash over her. As a world traveler, Bárbara knew that sensation as well: “The experience of living abroad, and the feeling you get stumbling upon a familiar place” — particularly one with familiar foods — brought them both a profound sense of home.
When Paola returned to Mexico, both lifelong foodies began brainstorming a project that would capture that feeling for others. (And give Paola access to all her favorite Colombian ingredients!) With Mexico City’s Venezuelan and Colombian community growing rapidly, they decided to give them a taste of home. After years of work, the result was Había una Res, where you’ll find authentic tequeños and arepas (Bárbara and Gerardo’s favorites), the exotic lulo fruits that Paola craves, as well as lasagnas and guisados, homemade cheeses and sauces, South American sodas, desserts, chorizos, and vegetables.
Supporting South Americans
The sisters have always been adventurous cooks, but perfecting South American flavors took time and dedication. They scoured Mexico City for the right ingredients, building a tight-knit network of specialist providers, many of them immigrants themselves. Together, they formed “a community of micro-businesses that we can help to develop and grow,” as Paola puts it. After tasting their final creations, Gerardo was impressed. “They perfectly capture that South American sabor” he had encountered during his own travels. Había una Res has also worked to employ South Americans, in the shop/café and as suppliers. “As Mexicans, we want to support South Americans who have come here,” Bárbara explains. “We also hope that our fellow Mexicans will discover the rich food and ingredients of South America.”
While Paola, Bárbara, and Gerardo all know what it’s like to feel nostalgic for your home cuisine, they recognize that for some in Mexico City, that feeling of longing can be much stronger. “When you’re unable to go back to your home country,” Paola says, as in the case of many Venezuelans living abroad, “the nostalgia must be so much stronger.” All three describe the wonderful feeling when a South American customer walks in for the first time. There, they can discover dishes and ingredients that immediately transport them home. “Sometimes,” Paola says, “they walk in and end up spending an hour or two looking around!”
The Golden Age of Frozen Food
Opening in July 2020, in the midst of Covid-19, may have seemed intimidating. In fact, their launch coincided with our collective craving for high quality frozen foods. Había una Res was a perfect match in the era of “stay at home” orders and semáforo rojo. “We want to make people’s lives easier,” Gerardo says. “With our meals they can eat healthier and better, for a reasonable price.” Next, the team hopes to expand further into Mexican regional and other international dishes. They’ve already got a stellar cochinita pibil (Yucatán pork dish), so I can’t wait to see their new creations!
I’m certainly not a South American emigré myself. But as a lover of delicious — and easy to prepare — international cuisine, I’ve become a frequent customer at Había una Res during the pandemic year. Swing by to pick something up or linger at the café itself, savoring its fresh cuisine and warm, friendly staff. Best of all, they deliver throughout Mexico City for a small distance-based fee. As Bárbara says, “Support local businesses. The more that we help each other, the stronger the economy will grow to get us out of the current crisis.”
Mexico City is going through a gastronomic renaissance. The vibrant metropolis is buzzing with new restaurant openings, from flavorful international joints to revivals of. Despite all this hype — some of it well-deserved — the city’s lifeblood isn’t found in these fancy, instagrammable hotspots. It’s in Mexico City street food.
Delicious delicacies can be found is on every corner in town. Even in the wealthiest neighborhoods, a taco truck will sneak its way in, a tianguis (weekly market) or neighborhood bazaar setting up wherever it can find the space. Street food is a way of life in this city! This guide will take you through the classics you can try.
Elote and Esquites
This first go-to street food is almost too obvious to mention. Corn has been king in Mexico since ancient times, and today is no exception. (Drive six hours south of Mexico City, and you’ll arrive in Tehuacán, whose church holds the oldest corn kernels in the country.) Everywhere in the city, you’ll come across the tantalizing scent of roast corn.
Elote, the basis of Mexican street food. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
This, of course, is from elote and esquites, staples of everyday life in the country. Elote is a corn cob, either boiled or roasted, then placed on a stick. Esquites is similar, but has been boiled with poblano peppers, cut off the cob and placed in a cup to eat with a spoon. Both get a bath of crema (Mexican sour cream), lime, crumbly and salty cotija cheese, and as much or as little chile as you want. I always search out the roasted elote on the grill, as I love its charred flavor.
Best Spots to Enjoy It: Outside the Anthropology Museum on Reforma Avenue, buy tasty roast elote and enjoy it on a bench under the tree canopy, across the street in Chapultepec Forest. If you’re more adventurous, get the beloved esquites at the Mercado Jamaica flower market downtown. A famous stand there sells them made with cacahuazintle, a unique large-kerneled corn native to Mexico, and flavors them with fragrant herbs and spices. Really, however, you can enjoy this treat anywhere in the city!
Pambazos
Oh, the glory that is the pambazo, Mexico City’s legendary sandwich. My first week working in the city, my new friend took me to the tianguis (open air markets that have existed since Aztec days) that took over the street near our office every Thursday. There, we had to choose between every possible type of Mexico City street food.
A stack of sauce-soaked, crispy bread rolls awaits their flavorful filling. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
Out of all this abundance, she recommended I try the pambazo. My life has never been the same…this sandwich is a uniquely chilango creation. The cook soaks bread in a tomato and chile-based sauce, then bakes it all over again. Once you order your pambazo, they’ll toss some chorizo and chopped potatoes onto the grill to cook, topping them off with crema and salsa. After that, eat up! The result is a delicious blend of textures (crunchy, soft) and flavors (spice, meatiness, acidity). Every once in a while, I get an intense craving for one of these and search out the closest street cart.
Torta de Tamal/Guajolota
Every weekday morning, Mexico City’s metro, buses, and roads fill with godinez, workers heading off to their offices. On their way through the hustle and bustle of the city, many stop for a wholesome breakfast: the guajolota, or torta de tamal. This is exactly what it sounds like: a tamale sandwich.
The guajolota may not be the most beautiful food, but trust me on its deliciousness. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
When I first came to the city, I thought this was a terrible idea for a food. Who’s ever eaten a tamale and thought, “I need more bread and carbohydrates on this”? And yet, that fateful day when I finally got one…I loved it. Somehow, the combo of crusty bolillo (a Mexican sandwich roll) and tamale just works, especially once salsa and even avocado or jalapeño add new textures to the mix. I only eat them every once in a while, but when I do, it’s the ultimate godín indulgence!
Atole and Champurrado
Remember how corn is king in Mexico? That extends throughout Mexico City street food, from meals (tamales) to snacks (elote) to drinks! On those bustling workweek mornings, right next to the tamale stands you’ll see vendors selling steaming cups of atole, a traditional corn-based drink. It’s sweet, with a creamy, satisfying texture that’s perfect for chilly mornings in the mountainous city. Even better is champurrado, basically atole prepared with chocolate. It’s like a thicker version of hot chocolate, and I treat myself to one every once in a while.
Champurrado is like a thick, filling hot chocolate. I love the one’s served in Desierto de los Leones National Park. Photo by the gringa herself.
Best Spots to Enjoy It: Just like tamales and elote, you can find this treat almost anywhere in the city every morning. That said, however, the best champurrado I’ve had is in Desierto de los Leones National Park, a lovely pine forest in the south of the city. (I have to do a whole post on this place soon.) There’s a row of little open air restaurants there, with delicious fresh champurrado and a perfect, crisp woodland atmosphere.
Camote (Mexican Sweet Potato)
Mexico City is a sensory experience: locals can take a quick glance at a picture, whiff of a certain smell, or even tune into a particular sound, and they know it’s their beloved Ciudad de México. One of the most distinctive sounds of the cityscape comes every evening around 6 pm. Sitting in my house or working at the office, I hear a long, low whistle echo through the street below. No matter where they are in the world now, chilangos remember that sound with longing and nostalgia.
Camoteros and their steam whistle are an iconic part of Mexico City life. Photo courtesy of Flickr.
That melancholy whistle is a relic of Mexico City’s past, passing through the 21st century metropolis. It comes from the camotero: the sweet potato vendor pushing his heavy metal cart down the streets and alleyways of the city. Inside the cart, flavorful camotes are steaming, and he releases the steam out of a chute to create the whistle sound. As a result, people know the camotero isnearby, and they can come down to buy his delicious wares. He serves the sweet potatoes with toppings like brown sugar and sweetened condensed milk. Buying his wares is not only delicious: it’s taking a step back in time, and supporting a Mexico City street food tradition.
Tacos, Quekas, Oh My! (Variations on Tortilla + Meat)
I could make an entire guide (an entire encyclopedia, in fact) just explaining the combinations of tortillas and meat you can find in this city. A famous Mexican comedian even has a joke about popular Mexico City street foods: when you boil it down to the essentials, most are a combo of tortilla, meat, beans, and salsa! But in short, here are the two most common tortilla-meat combos you’ll find in in the city. Others I don’t have space to describe in detail here include: gorditas (thick corn dough stuffed with meat), tostadas (fried hard tortilla topped with almost anything you can think of, sopes (a little corn masa circle topped with vegetables, meat, and cheese), gringas (a rare flour tortilla in Mexico City, filled with melty cheese and meat)…and oh my gosh, so many more.
Tacos al pastor are the favorite street food of many a foreigner (and locals!). Photo courtesy of Ari Helminen, Flickr.
Tacos:
You already know this one — small tortilla filled with meat, topped with salsa, and often white onion, cilantro, and as much lime juice as possible. But there’s endless variation within this simple template! Tacos al pastor are the most popular in Mexico City, and these spit-roasted, marinated pork tacos topped with pineapple are beloved for good reason. They came to Mexico via Lebanese immigrants at the turn of the last century. Beyond pastor, you can get chorizo (spiced sausage), arrachera (flank steak), lengua (tongue), tacos de canasta (tacos made at home and sold from baskets), even sometimes sesos (brains). And that’s only the tip of the iceberg!
Mexico City street food is incredibly diverse! I love this guide, which (if you speak Spanish) goes through the taxonomy of dishes. Photo courtesy of Pictoline.
Quesadillas:
You probably think you know what these are. Tortillas filled with melted cheese, right? Haha, think again. Mexico City street vendors very logically decided that quesadillas shouldn’t have cheese, unless specified. It’s a weird quirk of the city. Here, you have to order a “quesadilla con queso” (with cheese) if that’s what you want! Cheese or no cheese, these are tortilled stuffed with beef, chicken, etc., folded in half and fried. They’re delicious, and go by the nickname quekas.
Final note: One of the best things about Mexico City taco stands is consommé. The cook saves the delicious meat juices as he’s making beef tacos, and turns them into incredibly flavorful soup! They’ll give it to you free with your tacos. Add cilantro and lime, and enjoy. (If you’re eating barbacoa tacos, you’re in for an especially delicious consommé.)
Chilaquiles
Chilaquiles verdes for life. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
A block from my office, godinez line up every Friday morning for a Mexico City delicacy: chilaquiles. This dish is what office workers dream about all week. A bed of crispy totopos (fresh tortilla chips) is drowned in spicy, acidic green or red salsa made especially for the chilaquiles. You can throw some chicken, flank steak, or fried eggs on top, then everything gets a dousing of chopped white onion, cotija cheese, and crema (Mexican sour cream). The flavors mix and mingle: crunchy and soft, rich and spicy, savory and sour.
For a Mexico City twist, get a torta de chilaquiles. This is literally a sandwich filled with green chilaquiles. Yes, chilangos make sandwiches out of everything! Finally, there’s an eternal debate about which are better, red or green. I’m a strong proponent for green, but try both and decide for yourself…that green is better.
Best Spots to Enjoy It: I strongly recommend you seek out a place with a big grill, where they’re cooking everything fresh and only pour the salsa on once you order. If you see a bucket full of sauce and mushy tortilla chips, stay away. I am a weekly addict at a little white cart on Berlin Street in the Colonia Juárez, in between the streets Londres and Hamburgo.
Honorable Mentions
This guide is already getting rather long, and alas, there’s so much more I could say. To sum up, Mexico City street food is truly its own universe, full of endless possibilities. If dishes can possibly be combined or remixed, someone will do it — and go viral on Facebook in the process. Here’s a few honorable mentions that didn’t make it above:
August/September brings pomegranate to every fruit stand, while winter means fresh, smooth mango. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.
Jochos: A Mexicanization of the word “hot dog,” but these are so much more. Hot dogs here are often wrapped in bacon, and topped with rajas (pickled vegetables), jalapeño chiles, and chopped onions. So flavorful!
Fresh Fruit and Juices: These are another staple on every street corner. Find chopped mango, jícama, even cups of pomegranate seeds depending on the seeds, and enjoy the freshest fruit. In the mornings, stop by a juice stand and order your custom blend of fruits and vegetables, all for a buck or two. If you go to a hipster “juice bar” in Mexico City, you’re wasting money and cheating yourself.
Chicharrón: I must admit, my jaw dropped the first time I saw someone walking down the street with a giant chicharrón. These fried pork skins are sold in little pieces as a snack, but it’s especially memorable when somebody buys the skin of an entire pig for their family. Sounds gross. Absolutely fantastic.
Many visitors to Mexico City head straight to the Zócalo, in the historic center — the metropolis’s most famous plaza since Aztec times. While they may be impressed by its monumental scale and fascinating history, they probably also feel overwhelmed.
Without a doubt, the Zócalo is an amazing place. But both this huge main square and the historic center that surrounds it can be crowded and confusing, especially if you don’t know where to go. Without insider info, many leave feeling the area is chaotic and stressful. Yet I’ve guided many visitors through the historic center happily!
The Zócalo is undoubtedly a must-see in Mexico City’s historic center. Yet there’s so much more to experience!
I absolutely love the historic center of Mexico City. Pulsating with life, color, and history, it’s the true heart of the mega-city. The Aztecs once paddled canoes through canals here — now paved streets. Spanish conquistadors, kings, emperors, populists, and paupers roamed alongside Chinese immigrants, French invaders, and American imperialists of past centuries. Once you know where and when to go, I’m certain that you’ll fall in love with the area too. Without further ado, I’d like to share my guide to the historic center’s most magical spots, far beyond just the Zócalo. The neighborhood is full of incredible spots few tourists ever get to see!
Have an Old-School Breakfast at El Cardenal
The historic center of Mexico City isn’t just an area for tourists. The neighborhood is still home to long-time residents, offices, and lots and lots of government buildings, from federal departments to the capital’s congress. This means lots and lots of politicians and officials! And where do they all do business in the morning? El Cardenal, a fantastic, old school downtown restaurant.
El Cardenal is one of the historic center’s most iconic restaurants, and for good reason. Photo courtesy of Restaurante El Cardenal.
Regular folks come here too, of course. But El Cardenal has a special vibe, with its classic interior always filled with politicians having hours-long breakfast meetings, “ladies who lunch” gossiping as they feast on Mexican sweet breads, and businesspeople engaged in intense discussion over a café de olla. On top of all that, El Cardenal has one of the best breakfasts in Mexico City. Treat yourself to fabulous eggs and one of their famous conchas (a sweet breakfast roll), or come a little later to lunch on mole with chicken.
Travel Back in Time at the Plaza de Santo Domingo
Just a few blocks away lies the Plaza de Santo Domingo, one of Mexico’s oldest and most atmospheric public squares. Few tourists spend much time here, if at all. But it’s well worth dedicating an hour or two to explore the plaza’s cultural treasures! For me, Santo Domingo represents the heart of the historic center of Mexico City.
The Plaza de Santo Domingo has retained its traditional air since colonial times. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
Here, time seems to stand still. Centuries-old church and monastery buildings line the square, while tamale and elote vendors hawk their wares. Before these Spanish edifices were built, this very square was home to the Aztec emperor Cuauhtémoc. Under the portales, the covered stone arches that line one side of the plaza, sits a row of lovely wooden booths, each adorned with its own hand-painted sign. These are little open-air stationary shops, selling cards and decorative papers.
But hints remain of their original purpose; many of the stands have a little desk with an old typewriter perched on it. Since colonial times, the Plaza de Santo Domingo was home to scribes who would write letters and contracts for the population, mostly illiterate then. This practice slowly evolved into these charming stands, where you can still get a document drawn up if need be. It’s truly a slice of Mexico City’s past that remains relevant today.
Admire Stunning Murals by Some of Mexico’s Greatest 20th Century Artists
Palacio Nacional
The Palacio Nacional murals explore Mexican history. I highly recommend going with a guide who can explain them to you!
Many visitors to the historic center head straight to the Palacio Nacional (National Palace), right by the Zócalo. There, you can admire a gorgeous mural by Diego Rivera, spread across an entire staircase and depicting Mexican history from the Conquest to the Revolution. And it’s free! That said, however, the staircase seems to be closed off at the moment, making it hard to see the mural’s details.
Fortunately, the Palacio Nacional is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the historic center’s murals. After the Mexican Revolution, the newly progressive government invited many artists to cover public buildings in their art. The results are spectacular: one of my favorite things about Mexico City! All this gorgeous art, free and open to the public.
Secretary of Public Education
The Secretary of Public Education features three floors of stunning murals.
The best of these projects is in the Secretary of Public Education, right on the Plaza de Santo Domingo. Once a colonial monastery, this became HQ for Mexican education policy in the 1920s — and officials asked Diego Rivera to adorn the building with his murals. The effect is breathtaking. The elegant archways and stone walls of this ancient building are covered in murals, rising up three floors and stretching around a garden courtyard. Rivera’s murals cover Mexican traditions and artisanry on the lower level, while the third floor shows the country’s revolution. Look for “The Orgy”, a very entertaining mural depicting the lifestyle of the wealthy in Mexico City’s Roaring Twenties, and the final mural near the staircase, which depicts revolutionary communist workers and sneaks in Frida Kahlo!
Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso
The Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso makes for a memorable visit. Photo courtesy of Flickr.
Another lovely example of these public murals is the Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso, a historic center museum. The Colegio is another beautiful colonial building, which was once a school (consequently, its name, “The Old Academy of Saint Idelfonso”). Today, it features rotating exhibitions, but the star of the show is the architecture itself, bedecked with wonderful murals by the “Three Greats” of the 20th Century: Diego Rivera, David Alfonso Siquieros, and José Clemente Orozco. It’s open until 7 p.m., so it’s a great last stop of the day. They light the murals up once it starts getting dark, making the Colegio even more atmospheric!
In short, the Antiguo Colegio is a great place to familiarize yourself with the work of all three famed artists, the Secretary of Public Education is perfect for a deep dive into history amongst exquisite surroundings, and the Palacio Nacional for a quicker peek into both art and history. Make sure to bring an ID for officials at these buildings’ entrances.
Get a Taste for the Gourmet and the Strange at the Mercado de San Juan
There are many markets in the historic center, and it can be overwhelming to choose between them, or even know where to go. Since Aztec times, people from throughout Mesoamerica flocked here to sell their wares, trading valuable cacao and shells for obsidian, quetzal feathers, and precious metals. In the 2020s, this practice continues with tianguis (temporary markets) that pop up around the city, and lively neighborhood markets.
Of the many historic center markets, the Mercado de San Juan is perhaps the most unique. That is to say: you’ll probably never go to another market quite like this one. Mercado de San Juan is Mexico City’s go-to spot for exotic ingredients, frequented by top chefs and adventurous home cooks alike. Here, you’ll find fruits from Asia and South America alongside delectable insects, strange meats, and friendly, knowledgable vendors. Likewise, some vendors will cook you dishes that are just as unique. It’s a literal taste of Mexico City’s diverse heritage and modern cosmopolitanism.
Enjoy a Romantic Dinner By Candlelight at Azúl
Azul is undoubtedly one of the city’s most atmospheric, romantic restaurants.
As you’re winding down your day in the historic center, it can be tough to decide where to eat. This area has everything, from hole-in-the-wall taquerías (here’s a list) to contemporary fine dining (Limosneros). For me, however, nowhere compares to the ambience and sheer mexicanidad of Azul Histórico. Set within the courtyard of yet another colonial building, this restaurant is unbelievably beautiful.
Trees grow through the floor and rise up several stories, bedecked with glowing candles that create a magical atmosphere. The menu is a veritable tour of regional Mexican cuisine, with excellent seasonal specialties, domestic wines, and desserts. During your meal, I urge you to order the Tortilla Soup. Don’t ask why…you won’t regret it. (One final note: I do recommend calling and making a reservation. If you don’t, they’ll probably tell you the wait is an hour. I’ve never waited that long though! Sit it out, and within 30 minutes I bet you’ll have a table.)
Tips for Visiting the Historic Center of Mexico City:
Go During the Work Week: If at all possible, visit the historic center from Tuesday through Friday. During the weekends, it gets packed with locals shopping and enjoying the area — I mean really packed. I never take people here on the weekend, especially Sunday! And on Mondays, it’s tranquil, but all the museums are closed, including the Templo Mayor in the Zócalo. It’s nice during the rest of the week — I recommend going around 10-11 a.m., so you avoid the city’s morning rush hour.
Go to the historic center on a weekday, and find (relative) peace and tranquility.
Be a Bit Careful With Your Belongings: The center isn’t a “dangerous” area of Mexico City, but due to its high numbers of tourists and bustling feel, it has the highest rates of pickpocketing in the city. I’ve never had any issue, but I watch my things carefully. Keep them in a zipped bag in front of you, and just watch out if you’re taking snapshots.
Appreciate the Layers of History: Alas, our time in the historic center has come to a close. There are so many more places I’d like to share with you…sigh, I’ll save them for future posts. Mexico City’s historic center is, above all, a place of contrasts: modern big box stores inside colonial edifices, the hustle and bustle of a 21st century megacity amidst the ruins and palaces of past empires. The Pino Suárez metro station, for instance, reflects contemporary chaos, yet holds an Aztec pyramid within its depths. Layers upon layers of history collide here, and the more time you spend in this captivating neighborhood, the more you’ll discover.
