Art + Architecture Archives - The Gringa's Guide to Mexico City

Hidden Gems of Modern Mexico City Architecture & Design

If you’re an architecture enthusiast in Mexico City, world class design spanning every era surrounds you. By exploring the metropolis, you can discover everything from Aztec engineering marvels to cutting-edge skyscrapers, colonial convents to stunning examples of 20th Century Mexican Modernism. While I love it all, the latter is my absolute favorite. The 1900s brought remarkable change to Mexico City’s built landscape.

This was the era of homegrown modernist architects like Luis Barragán, Teodoro González de León, a nd Mario Pani. They were accompanied by multitalented jacks-of-all-trades like Juan O’Gorman, Diego Rivera, and Vicente Rojo. Together, these revolutionary artists transformed Mexico City architecture into something uniquely chilango. They combined Prehispanic motifs and geometry with sleek modernist lines and materials. The result is a thrilling Mexican vernacular architecture that continues to fascinate me.

You may already be familiar with some of this Mexico City architecture. The Casa Luis Barragán, the Monumento de la Revolución, and the Ciudad Universitaria (University City) are all famed examples that no one should miss! But once you’ve checked these well-known marvels off the list, I strongly encourage you to discover the other sites below. I’m mostly focusing on lesser-known spots from these incredible architects and artists, giving you the chance to experience the rich variety of Mexico City modernism without the crowds. Keep in mind that I’ve honed in on 20th Century Modernism here, not 21st Century contemporary architecture! (I’ll save that for a future post.)

Casa Gilardi & Casa Prieto López

If you’re a modern architecture buff, your first stop in Mexico City is probably the Casa Luis Barragán. This UNESCO World Heritage Site served as the home of Barragán, Mexico’s most famous architect, for decades. An emblem of Mexican minimalism and a strong influence on architects even today, it’s beloved for good reason! But after you’ve visited the Casa Barragán, don’t forget to check out the architect’s other spectacular designs around Mexico City.

Casa Gilardi

The Casa Gilardi, just a few blocks away from Barragán’s own house, is a privately-owned home hidden on a quiet street in San Miguel Chapultepec. But the slice of bright pink on its exterior hints at the groundbreaking architecture within. Casa Gilardi exemplifies everything we associate with Barragán today: contrasting, brilliant yellows, pinks, and blues, clean lines, an innate understanding of natural light, and seamless integration of the interior and exterior patio.

Casa Prieto López

Head (much) further south in the city and you’ll arrive at the rocky Pedregal. Luis Barragán and colleague Max Cetto were the first architects to envision the Pedregal as a habitable urban space. Previously, chilangos saw this wilderness of undulating cooled lava as untamable. An area of tarantulas and snakes, it was fit for painters’ eyes and photographers’ lenses, but not for modern homes. Barragán and Cetto saw the Pedregal as an untouched canvas to enact their vision of a uniquely Mexican, wholly organic community where modernist homes would perfectly blend into to the wild landscape. After Cetto built his own home there (see below), Barragán moved forward with a daring development plan. This started with the Casa Pedregal, officially known as the Casa Prieto López.

While still exemplifying Barragán’s signature style, the Casa Prieto López’s greatest strength is the Pedregal itself. Rough curves and valleys of black volcanic rock surround the home, forming the singular garden and appearing in surprising ways within the structure itself. The contrast between dark, porous stone and highly saturated pops of color is spectacular.

How to Visit Casa Gilardi and Casa Prieto López

The family still resides in Casa Gilardi, only allowing tours on certain days.

Both these homes are privately owned, but open for small group tours on certain days if you reserve in advance. Write to the Casa Gilardi owners on their Facebook page here or at casagilardi@gmail.com. The Casa Gilardi has an entrance fee of $300 pesos and charges an additional $500 pesos for a photography pass. You can walk there if you’re in the Roma/Condesa area. Take an Uber/Didi from anywhere, or of course, take my beloved Metro. It’s close to the Juanacatlán (Línea 1) and Constituyentes (Línea 7) stops. It’s well worth the trip to see this unique Mexico City architecture.

As for Prieto López, the current owner has done wonders to restore the house and garden to their former glory. Write them at visitas@casapedregal.com to make a reservation. It costs $800 pesos for foreigners, $500 pesos for Mexicans, $450 pesos for foreign students, or $275 pesos for Mexican students. If you aren’t yet ready to fork out the cash, one part of the property has been converted into Tetetlán, a stunning restaurant focused on local and organic ingredients. It’s a little pricey as well, but has great food and is worth it for the floor alone. (Think: clear floors exposing the volcanic rock below.) You can take an Uber/Didi there fairly quickly (20-30 mins) from central areas of the city.

Casa Orgánica

On a clear day, enjoy the *Casa Organica’s* views of the Mexico City Valley.

When architect Javier Senosian finally announced that his famed Casa Orgánica would open to the public as a museum last December, I signed up for a tour immediately. But before I could go, Covid-19 cases rose drastically and the city slid back in the dreaded Semáforo Rojo lockdown. All museums, galleries, restaurants, and so on closed from one moment to the next, including the Casa Orgánica. As of June 2021, however, the house is back open for very small group private tours.

After my long wait, I was finally able to visit the Casa Orgánica recently. What I discovered was absolutely thrilling. Senosian, who studied under clean-lined functionalists at the UNAM, took his designs in the complete opposite direction as he developed his architectural practice. A strong believer in the power of natural, curved forms and textures, Senosian has become the foremost creator of organic architecture in Mexico. 1985’s Casa Orgánica, where he lived with his family for several decades, is a stunning example. The house eschews straight lines and angles. It literally embraces you in a labyrinthine, womb-like space of poured “ferro-concrete” bends and curves. (The uterus is actually a big inspiration for Senosian, who believes it’s the first space we ever experience.)

The home’s womb-like feel embraces visitors.

The Tour Today

The Casa Orgánica tour, led by Senosian’s knowledgable students, is a spectacular sensory journey from the outset. You must remove your shoes at the door, padding through the luxuriously carpeted house in your socks. Winding, arterial hallways lead into spacious rooms with thoughtful built-in furniture, from serpentine cabinets to curved, inviting beds. The house is just as Senosian left it before moving, filled with his art, clothing, and even books. It’s full of fascinating details, including a sculptural painted eye that stares straight at the Torres de Satélite, an architectural site designed by Barragán and Senosian’s teacher, Mathías Goeritz. The exterior of the house is just as jaw-dropping. Most of the Casa Orgánica is covered by curves of grass and climbing bougainvillea blooms. A shark-shaped addition emerges from the sod. Whether you’re a design student or a mere photo-snapping Mexico City architecture fan like me, visiting the house is incredible.

Take off your shoes upon entering, and enjoy the house’s soft floors and smooth edges.

How to Visit the Casa Orgánica

Learn more about the house, Javier Senosian, and scheduling a visit at https://www.casaorganica.org/visitas. Bring cash for your ticket. (And maybe some extra efectivo to buy one of the excellent books about Senosian’s architecture on site.) You can take Uber/Didi to Naucalpan to reach the house in about 30 to 40 minutes, depending on traffic.

Museo Anahuacalli

The museum rises, a temple to Mexican modernism and the prehispanic past.

When a family friend visited years ago, I told him about some of Diego Rivera’s most unique projects: the mosaic-ed sculpture Fuente de Tlaloc, his lesser-known portraiture, and of course, the Museo Anahuacalli. “No no no,” he mansplained to me, “You must be mistaken…Rivera was a muralist, not an architect!” Fortunately for us all, I was definitely not mistaken. Rivera’s sprawling career crossed disciplines and borders. It showed him to be a multifaceted Renaissance man who dabbled in everything from writing to fireplace-building.

But Rivera best expressed his vision on a monumental scale. The Anahuacalli Museum in far-south Mexico City is perhaps the greatest example of his brilliant creativity. (Other than his murals, of course.) Rivera’s great life passion — other than women — was collecting Mesoamerican artifacts. In fact, he amassed over 50,000 spectacular pieces over the years: a collection fit for a museum! So fit for a museum, in fact, that Rivera built one himself. He selected this lava-covered slice of the southern Pedregal for his temple to ancient Mexicanidad, combining Prehispanic influences with clean modernism for a truly one-of-a-kind building. The Anahuacalli Museum rises like a black lava fortress from the soil, half gothic and half mexica.

This artifact altar is one of the Anahuacalli’s most stunning spots.

The Museum Itself

The museum’s leadership describes it as “inspired by pre-Hispanic architecture, the work of Frank Lloyd Wright, and functionalist aesthetics.” If you think that sounds like a bewildering mix, it is. Yet the jack-of-all-trades artist makes it work, creating a uniquely Riverian modernist pyramid. It’s genuinely one of a kind within Mexico City architecture. The interior holds about 2,000 fascinating treasures over three stories, spanning every region and culture of Mexico. Each display case is a work of art, particularly the breathtaking “altar” on the ground floor. Finally, the outside and inside of the Museo Anahuacalli are studded with stone mosaics and motifs, which line the walls, floor, and even ceiling.

How to Visit the Museo Anahuacalli

I relish the texture of *tezontle,* rugged volcanic stone.

You can easily take an Uber/Didi to and from the museum. It’s also accessible via public transportation: take the Metro to Tasqueña, then hop on the Tren Ligero or a combi to get the rest of the way there. (It is a wee bit complicated this way.) The museum is currently open with limited capacity, and you must buy tickets in advance here.

Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Casa Juan O’Gorman

The famed “bridge of love” connecting Frida and Diego’s homes.

Now let’s move on to a drastically different set of buildings, also associated with Diego Rivera himself. When Rivera and Frida Kahlo first married, they asked their friend Juan O’Gorman to design a house for them. The result was their functionalist yet whimsical Studio-House, independent homes connected by a thin bridge. While that’s the simple story we’re told in films like Frida, the reality of these groundbreaking designs begins much earlier.

Casa O’Gorman

Just a few meters from Diego and Frida’s one-time home sits a humble red house in a similar style. In the late 1920s, O’Gorman built the house for his father Cecil, though Juan ended up living and working in it himself. A painter, muralist, and architect, Juan greatly admired the ideas of modernists like Le Corbusier. He seized this 1929 opportunity to build something drastically different from any other Mexican home. The result was the first functionalist structure in the country. Today known as the Casa Juan O’Gorman, the two-level concrete home features a simple yet elegant curved staircase and broad paneled windows. It was revolutionary in its simplicity and experimental form. O’Gorman’s neighbors in San Ángel, however, didn’t appreciate its beauty at first. Like the Eiffel Tower and plenty of other buildings before it, many hated the Casa O’Gorman. Traditionalists preferred the area’s classic, colonial homes.

Casa Estudio Diego Rivera

It’s only over the course of the 20th Century that we learned to appreciate this little house and its outsized significance in Mexico’s architectural history. Kahlo and Rivera, however, adored their friend’s avant garde spirit. Only a few years after he moved in, they commissioned their house right next door in 1931. It really functions as an extension of O’Gorman’s original aesthetic on a larger scale, adding elements of white and blue to the red-hued concrete, as well as a striking green “fence” of cacti.

Diego’s studio is a fascinating architectural space — and a glimpse into the mind of the artist.

Kahlo herself only lived here for few years before returning to her childhood home — today’s famous Casa Azul — but Diego continued painting and partially living here for decades. Inside the larger structure, Diego’s art studio is the inarguable star of the show, highlighting his eclectic work and folk art collection. Note the double-height paneled windows. O’Gorman designed these so that Rivera could transport the gargantuan pieces of his murals/mural studies out with a crane.

How to Visit the Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Casa Juan O’Gorman

In a fairly quiet, colonial part of southern Mexico City, these houses stand in stark contrast to the historic San Ángel Inn across the street. If you’re using public transportation, I recommend taking the Metrobus down to the La Bombilla stop. Then, you can stroll through a few lovely blocks of the cobblestoned, colonial neighborhood on your way to modernity. The houses are open Tuesday-Sunday, 10-5:30 PM. If you have a little extra cash, pop into the San Ángel Inn for a delicious breakfast.

Museums of Chapultepec Forest

Nestled among the lush greenery of Mexico City’s famed Bosque de Chapultepec — the lungs of the city, sprawling twice the size of NYC’s Central Park — lie three stunning examples of Mexican Modernism. This area is home to several of the city’s best museums: the Anthropology Museum, the Museum of Modern Art, and the Tamayo Contemporary Art Museum.

Anthropology Museum

The Anthropology Museum is hardly a hidden gem. Still, it merits a mention not only for its jaw-dropping contents — astounding artifacts from Aztec and Mayan cultures, Gulf Coast and Teotihuacán, Tula and Monte Albán — but for its unique Mexico City architecture. In the 1960s, architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez drew inspiration from the Precolumbian past and cutting-edge modernity for this hymn to clean lines and monumental volumes. The most striking feature is the long stone courtyard, centered by a towering column carved with stone reliefs by the Chávez Morado brothers.

Tamayo Museum

The clean, yet richly textured exterior of the Tamayo.

Right next door, I may not be a huge fan of the ultra-contemporary art within. That said, the architecture of the Tamayo Museum is striking in its own right. Designed by one of my favorite architects, Teodoro González de León, along with Abraham Zabludovsky, the angular, concrete building accentuates its natural surroundings, providing an eye-catching contrast without alienating the landscape.

Modern Art Museum

In addition to its lovely architecture, the MAM features an enviable collection of Mexican modern art.

Finally, there’s the Museo de Arte Moderno (MAM), one of my favorite Mexico City museums. This stunner holds both permanent collections and rotating exhibitions highlighting the best of Mexican modern art. Sitting a stone’s throw away across Reforma Avenue, the MAM doesn’t grab your attention from the outside. Along with many museums of the 1950s and 1960s in Mexico, this was an emblem of an emergent, modernizing country. The original design by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez (who also designed the Anthropology Museum) was never fully realized, but what they did create remains lovely. Divided into two structures, enjoy both buildings’ warm, surreal domes, which seem to glow from within like mother-of-pearl washed up on the coastal sand. In between the two buildings, a wonderful and varied sculpture garden lies among the trees.

How to Visit the Chapultepec Forest Museums

Due to their central location along Reforma Avenue, these paragons of Mexico City architecture are very accessible. You can easily reach all three via Metro (Line 7, Auditorio stop and stroll down to the museums) or the Auditorio stop of the Reforma Metrobus. Or make a fun day trip of it and enjoy a Sunday bike ride down Reforma (when it’s closed to cars), popping in to whichever museum suits your fancy. Oh, and they’re all free that day! The MAM and Tamayo are open Tuesday-Sunday, 11 AM to 5 PM. The Anthropology Museum is currently open Tuesday-Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM (somewhat odd pandemic hours).

Espacio Escultórico of the UNAM

Once upon a time, the territory which the National University (University Nacional Autónoma de México) calls home was a singular wilderness: the Pedregal. After the volcano Xitle erupted 11,000 years ago, it left rolling coils of cooled, cracking lava across the landscape, creating a wholly unique ecosystem. While sadly, development has impacted much of this ecology, several forward-thinkers — most famously Luis Barragán, of course — recognized the untamed beauty of the Pedregal. Within the UNAM campus, sculptor Federico Silva completed his masterpiece, the Espacio Escultórico (Sculptural Space), in 1979.

The space consists of a giant circle of wild volcanic rock. The circle is surrounded by a wide path and looming, angled stone monoliths. Six huge modern sculptures lie scattered around, rising dramatically from the rugged landscape. Many consider this the largest outdoor sculptural installation in the world.

How to Visit the Espacio Escultórico

The space lies within the Centro Cultural Universitario (CCU). The CCU is easily reached via the Metrobus down Insurgentes Sur Avenue, to the stop of the same name. Unfortunately it’s only open from Monday through Friday, 7 AM to 4 PM, but access is free. It appears that the Espacio is still closed due to Covid, but I hope this changes soon! While you’re there, take a look at the Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo (MUAC), a fairly recently-built, cutting-edge museum designed by Teodoro González de León. It’s currently open Friday-Sunday, 11 AM to 5 PM.

Museo del Chopo

*El Chopo* rises like a neogothic, post-industrial behemoth out of the everyday city.

When I first stumbled upon the Museo del Chopo on a walk through the Santa María la Ribera neighborhood, I had no idea what I was looking at — even more, I was completely unaware of this building’s bizarre, century-long history. Still, the odd structure, lined by two skeletal towers, entranced me. Rising like a steampunk factory on the edge of a traditional neighborhood, the museum is both out of place and perfectly fitting. After all, el Chopo represents the beginning of Mexico’s modernist era in many ways.

The story of this mysterious building stretches back, improbably, to Queen Victoria’s Great Exposition in London, and the Crystal Palace built to house its marvels. This sparked a craze for world and regional fairs, along with gothic-industrial buildings in a style known as Jugendstil, often combined with elements of art nouveau. In 1902, architect Bruno Möhring designed a particularly interesting structure for a fair in Dusseldorf — and that’s where the story gets weird. A Mexican exposition company took notice of the Dusseldorf building. Eventually, they shipped it piece-by-piece to Mexico, where it arrived to the capital via the old Buenavista Train Station, and was painstakingly rebuilt here. Since those bold days, el Chopo has served as a Japanese Pavilion, a natural history museum, an abandoned ruin. Today, it’s a gorgeously restored UNAM museum dedicated to avant garde art and performance, with a special focus on LGBTQ+ cultural expression.

The museum’s interior feels half barn, half River Rouge factory.

How to Visit the Museo del Chopo

You can access the area around the museum easily via the Buenavista Metro or Metrobus stations. This is the site of the old train station, though sadly no longer home to passenger trains destined for all of Mexico. Unfortunately, due to the pandemic, the museum itself remains closed. You can check the current status of its opening here, but for the time being, it’s nice to walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the building’s oddball exterior. In the 70s, el Chopo began hosting a punk/rock music tianguis, or weekly Saturday market. This eventually spread to the surrounding streets, and it’s still thriving today, with music, clothing, and much more. El Chopo has brought together the best of European and Mexico City architecture.

Casa Estudio Max Cetto

The Casa Estudio blends beautifully into its natural surroundings. Mexico City architecture in its most ecological form.

Before Luis Barragán, before Diego Rivera, in the Pedregal lived Max Cetto. This German Jewish architect fled the Nazis in 1938, later bringing his creative talents and collaborative design vision to Mexico City. A few years later, he became a Mexican citizen and moved to the untamed Pedregal of cooled lava, endemic plants, and crystal-clear views of the volcanoes to the southeast. (A rare occurrence in smoggy CDMX these days, sigh.) Cetto made himself right at home there, building the first ever modern house in the area.

The house combines elements of Mexican functionalism with richly realized artisanal details. The structure itself is lovely and interesting, but immeasurably enhanced by the natural environment. The gardens integrate seamlessly with the volcanic rock and greenery. The outside is brought in even more with floor length windows. Nearing the end of this article, can you tell that I love the Pedregal and volcanic stone (tezontle)?

An old agave springs forth from sheer rock in the back garden.

How to Visit the Casa Estudio Max Cetto

This house is no longer in the midst of the wilderness, but it’s still kind of tricky to reach via public transportation. I recommend taking an Uber/Didi there. Email contacto@casaestudiomaxcetto.com to schedule a visit.

Mario Pani’s Historic Multifamiliares (Midcentury Government High-rises)

Sunrise at the *multi,* overlooking the clear-skyed city far below.

To wrap up this rambling story, it’s important to remember that not all Important Mexico City Architecture with a capital A is built for wealthy patrons or elite artists residing in private homes — or for that matter, in the luxury apartments springing up around the city. In fact, some of the most significant architectural movements around Latin America have developed by or for the people. My favorite examples of this mass architecture are the multifamiliares dotted around Mexico City. The populist-oriented government constructed these “multifamily” complexes years before high-rise public housing came to the U.S. Often, these buildings have thrived even as their counterparts across the border fell apart.

Centro Urbano Presidente Alemán (CUPA)

The CUPA, or multi, as many neighbors know it, kicked off decades of urban growth in Mexico City. In stark contrast to the low, crowded vecindades most chilangos once lived in, this 15-building complex would bring modernity. It all started with legendary Mexican architect Mario Pani, designer of the famed University City. He obsessed over French visionary Le Corbusier’s ideas for “vertical cities” and habitational units. These grand functionalist designs, both men believed, could bring a greater quality of life to city dwellers. At the same time, they’d allow governments to house great quantities of people in tall buildings.

The interplay of color, texture, and form at the CUPA.

In the late 1940s, Pani convinced the Mexican government to finance his first project, and the CUPA burst into existence as the first multifamiliar building in Latin America. To hear Pani tell it, the CUPA may actually be a world’s first. Le Corbusier himself didn’t finish his (much more famous, hmph) Unité d’Habitation de Marseille until a year later, in 1949, and even then on a much smaller scale, as the French government was deeply skeptical of the architect’s radical ideas. These days, the CUPA may be a bit worse for wear after over 70 years of life, but it remains a vibrant, collective community that’s very close to my heart. Its gray-and-red exterior —endless repetitions of windowpanes and open hallways, hanging laundry and rich greenery spilling from built-in concrete boxes — forms a mesmerizing pattern that combines the best of Mexican functionalism and brutalism.

Tlatelolco

Perhaps no structures hold a more complex, love-hate place in the Mexican zeitgeist than Tlatelolco. Designed by Mario Pani in 1960, this complex executed Pani’s vision on a stunning scale. It originally contained 102 buildings, with 11,916 apartments holding around 70,000 inhabitants. In fact, Tlatelolco remains the second largest apartment complex in North America. Its jaw-dropping scale and sleek, livable design represented the pinnacle of Pani’s funcionalist vision.

Yet that’s only the beginning of Tlatelolco’s story. In 1968, the Mexican government perpetrated the infamous Tlatelolco massacre on unarmed student protesters here. Snipers and police used the buildings to murder students in the plaza below, and hunt survivors. Tlatelolco became a symbol for the dark side of Mexican modernity, embodying both its promise and the ruthless consequences enacted by a government desperate to present modern, “civilized” perfection in the lead-up to the 1968 Olympics. Then, Tlatelolco was hit by yet another tragedy during the 1985 Earthquake. Built near the highly unstable center of the city, one of the high-rises collapsed entirely. Several others were damaged or not well-maintained over the years. Ninety buildings survive to this day, but sadly Pani’s vision of a city within the megacity has not survived fully intact.

How to Visit Mario Pani’s Multifamiliares

Unlike many of the buildings on this list, these are not museums or private residences open for tours. Instead, the CUPA and Tlatelolco are still home to thousands of residents from all walks of life. Many neighbors are friendly and fiercely proud of their home, but that doesn’t mean all are comfortable with tourist groups wandering around and snapping tons of photos. Both areas are open to the public, but I would ask that you be respectful and thoughtful while visiting these historic, integral parts of the fabric of Mexico City architecture.

You can reach Tlatelolco via the Metro Stop of the same name. There are also some slower buses that come here, but they get very crowded and I haven’t felt especially comfortable on them as a woman. The CUPA should be easily accessible with the 20 de Noviembre Metro Stop, but Line 12 is completely down. It’s been replaced by frequent, fairly speedy buses along Felix Cuevas avenue. (Or just walk 15 minutes from the Zapata or Felix Cuevas Metro/Metrobus stops.) As in any busier part of the city, be cautious and don’t carry around tons of valuables, of course. These complexes were truly designed as “cities within the city” complete with their own schools, green spaces, libraries, laundromats, stores, restaurants and much more. While you explore, support these local businesses with a purchase or two. Many of them are owned by or employ residents.

Five Underrated Mexico City Neighborhoods You Need to Visit

All too often, foreign visitors to the capital are directed to the same Mexico City neighborhoods. From Roma to Condesa, Coyoacán to Polanco, there’s nothing wrong with these beautiful areas of the metropolis, of course. This comfort zone might be easy, but hanging around only these well-heeled colonias can have downsides. You might end up surrounded by fellow foreigners, feeling a bit isolated from the rest of the city, culture, and language — not to mention having to deal with these areas’ tourist-oriented prices.

As a result, exploring some of Mexico City’s more off-the-beaten-track neighborhoods can be profoundly rewarding. All of the areas I’m sharing here are personal favorites that not only lie outside of the tourist bubble, but also have a stunning sense of history, from colonial Nueva España to the rapid growth and conflict of the 20th Century mega-city. Whether you’re a recent transplant to Mexico City or a future visitor, I hope you fall in love with one of these spots. I’m certainly enamored with all five.

1) Chimalistac

Jacaranda season transforms Chimalistac into a spring wonderland.

I hesitated to put this Mexico City neighborhood on the list at all, let alone at the very top. Why? Because it’s my favorite. Cobblestone-lined Chimalistac, crawling with colonial ghosts and bougainvillea, is one of the most peaceful, beautiful neighborhoods in the southern half of the city. The last thing I want is for hordes of tourists to flock here, so let’s keep this little secret between you and me.

Chimalistac sits right beneath Coyoacán and east of San Ángel, but receives a fraction of the visitors of these popular spots. Above all, this is because there’s not much to “do” here: the all-residential area has almost no restaurants or shops to entertain the easily distracted. So why go? Simply put, Chimalistac is one of the loveliest places — in the world, in my rather biased opinion — for a long stroll. Every idyllic street harbors colonial homes and thoughtful gardens, stone fountains and tiny, ancient chapels.

Just beyond the gates, busy Mexico City streets roar. But by this neighborhood fountain, tranquility reigns.

History

Like many of the areas on this list, Chimalistac was once an indigenous community (connected with Coyoacán) that paid tribute to the Aztec empire just north. Under Spanish rule, the neighborhood was settled by the barefoot Carmelite religious order, before becoming a more traditional family neighborhood. Today, you can pass over the same footbridge the monks once took to cross the Magdalena River — the water is gone though, replaced by Paseo del Río avenue. Enter the neighborhood from pretty Parque de la Bombilla, and after that, just wander aimlessly through the alleyways. Every time, I discover something new and delightful.

Chimalistac is one of the least-known Mexico City neighborhoods, making it a hidden treasure.

Eat at:

La Balance, a lovely little café and bakery nestled at the start of the neighborhood. Or cross Insurgentes Sur to San Angel, and eat at the famous (and deservedly so) El Cardenal.

Must-See:

The whole neighborhood during jacaranda bloom season (February-April), especially the area near the Casa de California. After that, don’t miss La Capilla de los Secretos (the Chapel of Secrets) in the center of a cobblestone intersection.

2) Tlalpan

Tlalpan is brimming with lovely colonial churches, traditional markets, and greenery.

Many chilangos (Mexico City residents) will tell you that Tlalpan is like Coyoacán was 20 or 30 years ago. Before Coyoacán, famed home to Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky, attracted tourists from around the city and world, it was a quietly bohemian neighborhood, still carrying vestiges of the outlying village it once was.

I agree with my chilango friends: today’s Tlalpan has much of that old world charm, without the crowds or souvenir hawkers. That said, the neighborhood isn’t some copy of Coyoacán, but a storied colonia with its own vibrant heritage. While Tlalpan is a sprawling delegation of Mexico City, I’m referring here primarily to the historic center of the area. But it’s absolutely worth visiting Cuicuilco just outside the center as well — it’s the oldest archaeological site in the city!

The *Museo del Tiempo,* or Museum of Time, is one of Tlalpan’s most unique offerings.

History

Tlalpan means roughly “on solid ground,” and while the city has constantly transformed around it, in the historic center of the neighborhood you will find that sense of solidity and continuity through time. Many indigenous communities have lived in the area through the centuries, including on the site of historic Tlalpan. Like so much of Mexico City, however, the most visible vestiges of the past come from the colonial and postcolonial eras. Wander through Tlalpan’s central plaza and encounter artisans, ice cream shops, and a lovely old town hall lined with murals. The real joy of Tlalpan is simply callejoneando: walking through the plaza and side streets, picking up a paleta here and some tacos there. In short, it’s a wonderful way to spend a Sunday.

Eat at:

Barra Alipus or the neighborhood market (in a brick building just behind the town hall)

Must-See:

Casa de la Cultura “Frisaac” and the Museo del Tiempo

3) Santa María la Ribera

Santa María la Ribera’s famed *Kiosko Morisco* makes a striking centerpiece for the neighborhood.

Now let’s head north of the city center to another of my favorite Mexico City neighborhoods. Santa María la Ribera is a lively, traditional colonia famed for its central plaza, the Alameda. Not to be confused with the larger Alameda park downtown, Santa María’s tree-lined plaza is home to the Kiosko Morisco. This architectural marvel is truly a Mexico City hidden treasure. Architect José Ramón Ibarrola built the Moorish-inspired structure for the World Exposition in New Orleans in 1884. After the festivities, though, the government brought it all the way to Mexico City, where the mesmerizing Kiosko has now sat, surrounded by jacaranda trees and street life, for over a century.

Santa María la Ribera, however, is much more than just its spectacular Kiosko. Diverse architecture lines the Alameda, from the neoclassical Museo de Geología to midcentury corners. Wander out from this central point, and you’ll find charming cafés and traditional neighborhood tianguis (temporary markets) throughout the neighborhood. Come on the weekend for a profusion of food, music, and artisanry all around the plaza. Head down to the Museo del Chopo on the southern edge of the neighborhood for quirky exhibitions. (Note: the museum hasn’t yet reopened at this point in the pandemic, but you can still enjoy its steampunk-esque architecture!) The stunning modernist Biblioteca Vasconcelos library is very nearby, in Buenavista.

Further south in the *colonia,* the *Museo Universitario del Chopo* stands out for its unique architecture.

History

Inaugurated in 1861, Santa María la Ribera was Mexico City’s first formalized, planned “neighborhood.” In the early 20th Century, rich chilango barons came here to escape the city and its pandemics of old (we’re talking Yellow Fever, not Covid-19). The area slowly opened up to working-class families as the rich left for newer developments, especially after the 1985 earthquake. If you’ve seen the film Roma, the neighborhood’s Alameda was also a part of the historical “Halconazo” massacre featured in the movie.

Today, Santa María la Ribera is a fascinating jumble. Blue collar families live side-by-side with young artists, academics who’ve been here for decades, feminist punks, and yes, a smattering of hipsters.

Eat at:

Kolobok, the best (and almost only) Russian restaurant in Mexico City

Must-See:

The Kiosko Morisco

4) Mixcoac

The small and inviting Plaza Gómez Farías is one of my favorite spots for a Sunday stroll.

During the worst moments of the pandemic, when even catching a cab seemed risky, I was eternally grateful for my close proximity to a colonial slice of Mixcoac. Within walking distance of my home, I’d first cross busy, modern Insurgentes Avenue and be transported to another era. Then, the sounds of the metropolis quickly faded away, and I was left in peace to wander through the cobblestone streets of Mixcoac. It’s truly one-of-a-kind amongst Mexico City neighborhoods.

History

Mixcoac means “place of worship of the cloud serpent” in indigenous Nahuatl. In fact, you can visit a small but interesting archaeological site in the neighborhood to learn more about its Prehispanic past. Most of what you see in the historic section of Mixcoac, though, comes from the 18th and 19th Centuries. During this era, it was a separate town outside the city. Moneyed chilangos built their summer homes here, and slowly roads and streetcars connected it to Mexico City until the megapolis swallowed Mixcoac whole.

The sprawling *Parroquia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán* is a beloved neighborhood icon.

You’ll find many vestiges of the past in Insurgentes Mixcoac, the traditional part of the neighborhood. For a tranquil afternoon stroll, start at the Parroquia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, a lovely red parish church. From there, head north past the Universidad Panamericana buildings via Augusto Rodin Street. You’ll soon arrive at Plaza Gómez Farías, where another charming church and square await. Explore the surrounding streets or head to Parque Hundido to finish your walk. This “sunken” park was once the site of a brick factory — built on the factory’s dug-out foundations, it sits several meters below street level.

Eat at:

Cal & Maíz, a restaurant dedicated to bringing back native Mexican forms of maize, as well as other indigenous ingredients.

Must-See:

Plaza Gómez Farías on Sunday, so you can buy delicious pastries from the nuns outside their convent on the western edge of the plaza.

5) Azcapotzalco

In Azcapotzalco’s central plaza, even the monuments wear masks.

Of all the lovely, historic Mexico City neighborhoods on this list, I arrived at Azcapotzalco last. Due to its northerly location and industrial surroundings, this neighborhood is often overlooked. Fortunately, my dear friend Gina works here, and when I finally took her up on a long-standing invitation to visit the area, I was delighted by what I found.

If you search amidst the bustle of modern Azcapotzalco, you’ll find plenty of traces of its fascinating past. Surrounding by busy shopping streets and hawkers, the neighborhood’s Zócalo (central plaza) is an oasis of calm. Neighbors chat as they walk under arching jacaranda trees, curving around a lovely pink gazebo in the center. The sprawling Catedral de los Santos Apóstoles Felipe y Santiago Church lies along one side of the plaza — I highly recommend exploring its tree-covered grounds and peaceful chapels. From this central spot, you can also reach the busy Mercado de Azcapotzalco, which brims with fresh produce, chiles, homemade mole sauces, and even natural healers, their stands piled high with aloe vera spines and dried herbs. (Ojo: The market can get crowded and mask use, while decent, is not omnipresent. This may be a better spot to visit post-pandemic.) In general, I recommend visiting Azcapotzalco during non-peak times, to avoid busy streets.

History

Azcapotzalco is legendary — in more ways than one. The Aztecs and other Nahuatl cultures called the area “the place of the ants,” a name derived from an ancient legend. They say that the God Quetzalcóatl, disguised as an ant, stole corn from the heavens and brought this essential Mexican food to mere mortals. Azcapotzalco has always held an important place in the city, both metaphorically and physically. It’s served as a crucial link between indigenous civilizations, a colonial center, and presently, a vibrant hub where tradition and industry live side by side.

The jacaranda-lined Zócalo features a lovely pink centerpiece.

Eat at:

La Conchería, a bakery lauded city-wide for its delectable and creative concha pastries

Must-See:

The Catedral de los Santos Apóstoles Felipe y Santiago

The neighborhood’s central church grounds include this charming, minuscule chapel.

Wrap-Up

Of course, there are even more hidden treasures for you to discover around Mexico City. Likewise, the city is surrounded by many lesser-known spots in the metro area. Would you like a Part 2 to this piece featuring other off-the-beaten-track Mexico City neighborhoods soon? Or a Gringa’s Guide to the prehispanic sites around town? Comment below!

From climbing bougainvillea in Mixcoac to draped jacaranda trees in Chimalistac, these five Mexico City neighborhoods have so much charm and history on display.

Beyond the Zócalo: What (Else) to Do in Mexico City’s Historic Center

Many visitors to Mexico City head straight to the Zócalo, in the historic center — the metropolis’s most famous plaza since Aztec times. While they may be impressed by its monumental scale and fascinating history, they probably also feel overwhelmed.

Without a doubt, the Zócalo is an amazing place. But both this huge main square and the historic center that surrounds it can be crowded and confusing, especially if you don’t know where to go. Without insider info, many leave feeling the area is chaotic and stressful. Yet I’ve guided many visitors through the historic center happily!

The Zócalo is undoubtedly a must-see in Mexico City’s historic center. Yet there’s so much more to experience!

I absolutely love the historic center of Mexico City. Pulsating with life, color, and history, it’s the true heart of the mega-city. The Aztecs once paddled canoes through canals here — now paved streets. Spanish conquistadors, kings, emperors, populists, and paupers roamed alongside Chinese immigrants, French invaders, and American imperialists of past centuries. Once you know where and when to go, I’m certain that you’ll fall in love with the area too. Without further ado, I’d like to share my guide to the historic center’s most magical spots, far beyond just the Zócalo. The neighborhood is full of incredible spots few tourists ever get to see!

Have an Old-School Breakfast at El Cardenal

The historic center of Mexico City isn’t just an area for tourists. The neighborhood is still home to long-time residents, offices, and lots and lots of government buildings, from federal departments to the capital’s congress. This means lots and lots of politicians and officials! And where do they all do business in the morning? El Cardenal, a fantastic, old school downtown restaurant.

El Cardenal is one of the historic center’s most iconic restaurants, and for good reason. Photo courtesy of Restaurante El Cardenal.

Regular folks come here too, of course. But El Cardenal has a special vibe, with its classic interior always filled with politicians having hours-long breakfast meetings, “ladies who lunch” gossiping as they feast on Mexican sweet breads, and businesspeople engaged in intense discussion over a café de olla. On top of all that, El Cardenal has one of the best breakfasts in Mexico City. Treat yourself to fabulous eggs and one of their famous conchas (a sweet breakfast roll), or come a little later to lunch on mole with chicken.

Travel Back in Time at the Plaza de Santo Domingo

Just a few blocks away lies the Plaza de Santo Domingo, one of Mexico’s oldest and most atmospheric public squares. Few tourists spend much time here, if at all. But it’s well worth dedicating an hour or two to explore the plaza’s cultural treasures! For me, Santo Domingo represents the heart of the historic center of Mexico City.

The Plaza de Santo Domingo has retained its traditional air since colonial times. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Here, time seems to stand still. Centuries-old church and monastery buildings line the square, while tamale and elote vendors hawk their wares. Before these Spanish edifices were built, this very square was home to the Aztec emperor Cuauhtémoc. Under the portales, the covered stone arches that line one side of the plaza, sits a row of lovely wooden booths, each adorned with its own hand-painted sign. These are little open-air stationary shops, selling cards and decorative papers.

But hints remain of their original purpose; many of the stands have a little desk with an old typewriter perched on it. Since colonial times, the Plaza de Santo Domingo was home to scribes who would write letters and contracts for the population, mostly illiterate then. This practice slowly evolved into these charming stands, where you can still get a document drawn up if need be. It’s truly a slice of Mexico City’s past that remains relevant today.

Admire Stunning Murals by Some of Mexico’s Greatest 20th Century Artists

Palacio Nacional

Many visitors to the historic center head straight to the Palacio Nacional (National Palace), right by the Zócalo. There, you can admire a gorgeous mural by Diego Rivera, spread across an entire staircase and depicting Mexican history from the Conquest to the Revolution. And it’s free! That said, however, the staircase seems to be closed off at the moment, making it hard to see the mural’s details.

Fortunately, the Palacio Nacional is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the historic center’s murals. After the Mexican Revolution, the newly progressive government invited many artists to cover public buildings in their art. The results are spectacular: one of my favorite things about Mexico City! All this gorgeous art, free and open to the public.

Secretary of Public Education

The best of these projects is in the Secretary of Public Education, right on the Plaza de Santo Domingo. Once a colonial monastery, this became HQ for Mexican education policy in the 1920s — and officials asked Diego Rivera to adorn the building with his murals. The effect is breathtaking. The elegant archways and stone walls of this ancient building are covered in murals, rising up three floors and stretching around a garden courtyard. Rivera’s murals cover Mexican traditions and artisanry on the lower level, while the third floor shows the country’s revolution. Look for “The Orgy”, a very entertaining mural depicting the lifestyle of the wealthy in Mexico City’s Roaring Twenties, and the final mural near the staircase, which depicts revolutionary communist workers and sneaks in Frida Kahlo!

Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso

Another lovely example of these public murals is the Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso, a historic center museum. The Colegio is another beautiful colonial building, which was once a school (consequently, its name, “The Old Academy of Saint Idelfonso”). Today, it features rotating exhibitions, but the star of the show is the architecture itself, bedecked with wonderful murals by the “Three Greats” of the 20th Century: Diego Rivera, David Alfonso Siquieros, and José Clemente Orozco. It’s open until 7 p.m., so it’s a great last stop of the day. They light the murals up once it starts getting dark, making the Colegio even more atmospheric!

In short, the Antiguo Colegio is a great place to familiarize yourself with the work of all three famed artists, the Secretary of Public Education is perfect for a deep dive into history amongst exquisite surroundings, and the Palacio Nacional for a quicker peek into both art and history. Make sure to bring an ID for officials at these buildings’ entrances.

Get a Taste for the Gourmet and the Strange at the Mercado de San Juan

There are many markets in the historic center, and it can be overwhelming to choose between them, or even know where to go. Since Aztec times, people from throughout Mesoamerica flocked here to sell their wares, trading valuable cacao and shells for obsidian, quetzal feathers, and precious metals. In the 2020s, this practice continues with tianguis (temporary markets) that pop up around the city, and lively neighborhood markets.

Of the many historic center markets, the Mercado de San Juan is perhaps the most unique. That is to say: you’ll probably never go to another market quite like this one. Mercado de San Juan is Mexico City’s go-to spot for exotic ingredients, frequented by top chefs and adventurous home cooks alike. Here, you’ll find fruits from Asia and South America alongside delectable insects, strange meats, and friendly, knowledgable vendors. Likewise, some vendors will cook you dishes that are just as unique. It’s a literal taste of Mexico City’s diverse heritage and modern cosmopolitanism.

Enjoy a Romantic Dinner By Candlelight at Azúl

Azul is undoubtedly one of the city’s most atmospheric, romantic restaurants.

As you’re winding down your day in the historic center, it can be tough to decide where to eat. This area has everything, from hole-in-the-wall taquerías (here’s a list) to contemporary fine dining (Limosneros). For me, however, nowhere compares to the ambience and sheer mexicanidad of Azul Histórico. Set within the courtyard of yet another colonial building, this restaurant is unbelievably beautiful.

Trees grow through the floor and rise up several stories, bedecked with glowing candles that create a magical atmosphere. The menu is a veritable tour of regional Mexican cuisine, with excellent seasonal specialties, domestic wines, and desserts. During your meal, I urge you to order the Tortilla Soup. Don’t ask why…you won’t regret it. (One final note: I do recommend calling and making a reservation. If you don’t, they’ll probably tell you the wait is an hour. I’ve never waited that long though! Sit it out, and within 30 minutes I bet you’ll have a table.)

Tips for Visiting the Historic Center of Mexico City:

Go During the Work Week: If at all possible, visit the historic center from Tuesday through Friday. During the weekends, it gets packed with locals shopping and enjoying the area — I mean really packed. I never take people here on the weekend, especially Sunday! And on Mondays, it’s tranquil, but all the museums are closed, including the Templo Mayor in the Zócalo. It’s nice during the rest of the week — I recommend going around 10-11 a.m., so you avoid the city’s morning rush hour.

Go to the historic center on a weekday, and find (relative) peace and tranquility.

Be a Bit Careful With Your Belongings: The center isn’t a “dangerous” area of Mexico City, but due to its high numbers of tourists and bustling feel, it has the highest rates of pickpocketing in the city. I’ve never had any issue, but I watch my things carefully. Keep them in a zipped bag in front of you, and just watch out if you’re taking snapshots.

Appreciate the Layers of History: Alas, our time in the historic center has come to a close. There are so many more places I’d like to share with you…sigh, I’ll save them for future posts. Mexico City’s historic center is, above all, a place of contrasts: modern big box stores inside colonial edifices, the hustle and bustle of a 21st century megacity amidst the ruins and palaces of past empires. The Pino Suárez metro station, for instance, reflects contemporary chaos, yet holds an Aztec pyramid within its depths. Layers upon layers of history collide here, and the more time you spend in this captivating neighborhood, the more you’ll discover.

Biblioteca Vasconcelos: A Look Inside Mexico City’s Jaw-Dropping Modern Library

When you arrive at Biblioteca Vasconcelos, you’d never guess that an architectural marvel hides just inside. Yet just beyond this busy street corner lies the crown jewel of Mexico City modern architecture. This towering, concrete building looks like any Brutalist public structure from the outside. It takes up so much space — 409,000 square feet! — that locals have nicknamed it a “megalibrary.” Step inside, and you enter every book lover and architecture buff’s personal heaven.

Must-Sees at Biblioteca Vasconcelos

The public library sits in the Buenavista neighborhood, a bit north of Mexico City downtown. Since it opened to the public in 2006, Biblioteca Vasconcelos has become a pilgrimage spot for design nerds and readers alike. The impressive building was designed by iconic Mexican architect Alberto Kalach, and you can tell. Make sure not to miss:

The Bookshelves: The shelves are suspended high off the ground floor, making it seem like they’re floating up seven stories. The result is a visual feast, with over 600,000 multicolored books stretching up and out, as far as you can see. Yes, you can read them all.

The Views: On the sides of the building, cozy nooks provide gorgeous views of the library itself, and balconies let you see the downtown skyline in the distance. Make sure to go all the way upstairs for the best views both inside and out.

The Whale Sculpture: In the lobby, the beauty continues with the sculpture “Mátrix Móvil,” a huge whale skeleton floating in the air, by Veracruzan sculptor Gabriel Orozco.

The Garden: Just outside, a lovely botanical garden provides much-needed green space, contrasting beautifully with the library’s clean, modern lines. The vast garden boasts 168 different native Mexican plant species.

Gabriel Orozco’s famous whale sculpture dominates the lobby of the library.

How to Visit Biblioteca Vasconcelos

Because it’s at a hub of public transport, it’s easy to get to from nearly anywhere in the center city. It’s completely free to visit, and if you’re Mexico resident, you can apply for a library card to check things out! The only method I wouldn’t strongly recommend is walking, especially if you’re coming from the center. The library is in a busy, fairly safe area, but you’d have to pass through some riskier zones to get there.

By Car: You can easily visit the library in your own car or in Uber/cab; it’s just a 15 minute drive from the center. There’s free parking available underground, and plenty of Ubers pass through the area.

By Bus: Lucky for you, the Buenavista Station is just outside the library. You can take Metrobus Lines 1 and 4 and arrive with ease.

By Train: Line B of the Mexico City Metro also goes straight to Buenavista Station. You can connect with this line on the more central Lines 1, 3, 4, and 8.

Biblioteca Vasconcelos also features views of Mexico City’s iconic skyline.

About the Architect

Alberto Kalach is a giant in modern Mexican architecture. After a global contest, the Mexican government chose him to design the library in 2003. Mexico City’s intense urbanism inspires Kalach’s work, which focuses on innovative architecture that fits into the city’s complicated, ever-changing landscape. He’s fascinated by the capital’s Venice-like past as an Aztec canal city, and participates in the “Vuelta a la ciudad lacustre” (Return to the City of Lakes) urban project.

When Kalach won the library contest, alongside architects Gustavo Lipkau, Juan Palomar, and Tonatiuh Martínez, he had a unique vision for Biblioteca Vasconcelos. He wanted it to be much more than a library: a megabuilding, a cultural center, a botanical garden, a city landmark. Kalach imagined a space that would provide refuge for residents in this gritty, dense neighborhood and beyond.

The results are truly amazing. Kalach and his collagues accomplished everything they set out to do, and more — they created a truly sustainable, 21st Century-relevant space. I was stunned by my first visit to Biblioteca Vasconcelos. It’s hands down one of the most incredible contemporary examples of Mexico City architecture. And best of all, rather than being just a showpiece for people to snap photos, the building is an extremely useful and welcoming library. It’s a fantastic place to study, work, and of course, read a book. The library is always bustling with local residents, from families with kids to hyper-focused grad students, and they’ve all made this remarkable work of art their own.

From the seventh floor, visitors enjoy a bird’s eye view of the library’s artistic design and endless bookshelves.

The Library’s Wild History

It might seem like such a beloved, world-renowned building would have a simple success story. In reality, Biblioteca Vasconcelos’s history is much more complicated. In the early 2000s, the new administration of Mexican President Vicente Fox proposed modernizing the library system around the country. They decided to build an impressive new library in Mexico City.

The project’s organizers named the planned library after José Vasconcelos, a hero of the Mexican Revolution and promoter of education and culture in Mexico. Vasconcelos fought during the 1910s-20s Mexican Revolution, and became the first Secretary of Public Education under the victors’ government.

After years of construction, the Fox administration finally inaugurated Biblioteca Vasconcelos in 2006. But just a few months later, in March 2007, the government shuttered the building! Inspectors found irregularities throughout the building, including the misplacement of important marble columns. As is common in Mexican public projects, Fox’s government had rushed construction and pushed the library’s inauguration forward, so the outgoing presidential administration could impress before the 2006 elections. This likely caused the errors, and the next government needed to spent USD $3 million to fix them. After almost two years, they actually finished the building, and opened to the public in 2008. Despite this troubled history, I’m sure glad the spectacular library is open today.