Visiting Mexico Archives - The Gringa's Guide to Mexico City

Return to Chilangolandia: Mexico City Slang Guide, Part 2

Over the years, I’ve published in-depth guides on everything from Mexico City parks to modernist architecture. But nothing has proved as popular as Part 1 of my Mexico City slang guide — not even close! Reflecting on that piece, I realized it only scratches the surface of this city’s rich, varied language. I’m sure I could (and should) do a Part 3, 4, and beyond, but for now, here’s the long-awaited Part 2.

Social Class/Political Identities

Mexico City’s deeply divided, class-stratified society expresses its social complexity through popular language. From ninis to nacos, fifís to fresas, everyone in town — rich, poor, and everything in between — is codified. Keep in mind that I don’t necessarily recommend using these phrases, as some may be considered insulting, classist, or even ethnically charged. Instead, keep your ears pricked when you hear them — I hope knowing these words gives you a deeper understanding of the cultural context in modern Mexico City.

Fresa

Fresa has long been the classic Mexico City slang term for the elite, carrying a connotation of “spoiled rich kid” or snobbish. Although the word literally means strawberry, call someone a fresa in Mexico and people will instantly understand what you mean. Get a hilarious glimpse of fresa culture with the Netflix show “La Casa de las Flores” (“The House of the Flowers”). Set in the tony Mexico City neighborhood of Lomas de Chapultepec, you’ll hear exaggerated fresa accents and enjoy watching the decidedly First World Problems of the city’s elite.

Fifí

While closely associated with fresas, the word fifí has a much stronger political charge. It’s existed for years, but 2018-2024 President Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO) popularized it during his campaign. He often refers to his opponents as fifís: members of the socially conservative middle/upper class. AMLO will portray the typical fifí as wealthy and out of touch, whether they’re protesting his policies or critical members of the press. Because of this, the term has become heavily politicized.

Chairo

Courtesy of *El Diario de Andrés Manuel.*

Chairo, also a political phrase, is a bit like the leftist version of fifí. It’s used frequently by people on the right and center, to refer to those on the left. It describes middle class kids who became “radical,” whether that means activists, hippies, or left-leaning more generally. While they consider themselves as part of the masses, they came from a more privileged background. This leads, according to their detractors, to an inherent hypocrisy. Some may also refer to derechairos, a right-wing equivalent.

Naco/Ñero

“Who are *you* calling a naco?”
(Courtesy of memeandote.com.)

In my experience, every culture has some classist terms for those of lower socioeconomic status. However, in the U.S., it might be “hillbilly,” “white trash,” or “ghetto” — emotionally charged words that often carry racial or regional associations. In Mexico City slang, the most common pejorative I hear is naco, along with its less-used counterpart ñero. While it’s impossible to directly translate slang into English, these seem to correspond closely to “trashy” in English. Naco and ñero will often be used to pass judgement on particular clothing styles or modes of behavior — especially those employed in low-income neighborhoods of Mexico City and Estado de México. These terms are both adjectives and nouns. Folks might call someone a naco, or call a certain trend, attitude or look naco.

Buchón

You could think of buchón as naco’s Northern Mexican counterpart. While it carries a similarly negative “low class” connotation, buchón refers to the narco/cowboy subculture in Northern Mexico. While a buchón may or may not be involved in organized crime, you’re likely to see them in “Wild West” norteño fashion. This could include cowboy hats, curved Sinaloense style boots, belt buckles and other flashy accessories. Central Mexicans often make fun of the buchón look, and its female equivalent buchona, which would stereotypically involve heavy plastic surgery, lots of makeup, and a tight “cowgirl” style.

Nini

This odd term is a shortened version of ni trabaja, ni estudia: “neither works nor studies.” People throw it around as a slightly insulting, yet jokey phrase for twenty or thirty-somethings who haven’t gotten around to accomplishing much. They might still live with their parents and/or depend on them for money. I rarely hear chilangos refer to a specific person as a nini. More commonly, people refer to the group in general, as in “oh, those lazy ninis.”

Chavorruco

A chavorruco, quite literally an “old young person” or “young old person,” is sort of a washed-up club kid in Mexico City slang. They’re now in their thirties or even forties, but continue to party like they’re a college student. This word always makes me laugh, as it has a light, fun connotation. People might jokingly refer to a friend, or even themselves, as “such a chavorruco.”

Mirrey

Speaking of terms with a negative, “lazy” association, mirrey combines the high-income status of fresas with the “do nothing” attitude of a nini. The term refers to spoiled “daddy’s boys,” the privileged teen or adult children of wealthy parents. To get a good sense of this, check out Amazon Prime’s film “Mirreyes contra Godinez,” a comedic take on class distinctions and nepotism in the Mexico City workplace. As you may remember from Part 1 of my slang guide, godinez are middle class office workers.

Güero

Here’s a term that features some of the class, racial, and appearance-based language throughout this section: güero. If you’re a light-skinned or light-haired person in Mexico, you’ve likely heard this word plenty. Güero literally means “whitey,” but as a term of endearment or nickname, similar to how Mexicans might affectionately call their friends flaca (skinny), gordo (fatty), or pequeña (little one). Street sellers, though, will call you güero/güera no matter your appearance. Some theorize this is because historically, light skin often meant higher social status, so calling someone güero could be a way to flatter them.

Mexico City Slang Coming from Indigenous Languages

Mexican Spanish owes an enormous debt to indigenous languages. While Mayan, Mixteco, Zapoteco, and many other languages have influenced Spanish around the country, due to Mexico City’s history as the Mexica (Aztec) capital of Tenochtitlán, here Nahuatl is strongly present. There are literally entire dictionaries dedicated to Mexican Spanish, but here’s a small sampling of my favorite phrases! They add so much depth, richness, and history to the language. (In Part 3 of the slang guide, I’ll have to add even more of my favorites!)

Tocayo/Tocaya

“So we’re *tocayas…*believe me, we’ve got a beautiful name.”
(Courtesy of memegenerator.es.)

Whether you’re named Diana, Carlos, or Jessica, chances are soon enough you’ll meet a tocaya or tocayo in Mexico. This word, originating from the Nahuatl word tocaitl, refers to someone with the same name as you. If I run into another Merin here (it’s never happened with the same spelling, but one can dream!), they’d say, “Eyyyy, ¡mi tocaya!” It’s a bit like saying “Hey, we’re twins!” if you have the same outfit or birthday as someone in the English-speaking world.

Cuate

Mexicans often describe their close friends as their cuates, a Nahuatl-derived word. The original word, “mecoatl,” meant twins, and had a second meaning: the near-identical baby agave plants that sprout out from the mother maguey. (That’s the beautiful, spiky succulent plant that produces tequila and mezcal.) Calling your friend a cuate is deeper than just an amigo — it’s a bit closer to something like “blood brother,” though used more casually. Like many words, it’s ultimately un-translatable, after all. Use it with your squad — those you truly consider close.

Tianguis

For centuries before the Spanish arrived in ancient Tenochtitlán, the site of modern Mexico City, many indigenous cultures in Central Mexico participated in temporary markets called tianguis. Merchants would cart their wares — often by canoe through the capital city’s complex, long-disappeared canal system — to the designated spot once a week or so. Setting up petates (woven palm carpets), they’d take out flowers and nopales, snakes and xoloitzcuintles (Prehispanic hairless dogs). Hey, there’s a few extra words for you!

These days, tianguis are still going strong all over the city and region! Many are general marketplaces, which will set up along a street or park to sell grocery items along with prepared food like tacos, birria, and pambazos. However, there are also pacas, which sell new and used clothing and accessories for cheap prices. There are also very unique tianguis dedicated to specific interests, such as the Tianguis del Chopo. Mexico City’s punks, goths, and rockers gather there (right next to the Vasconcelos Library) every Saturday to buy, sell, and trade everything from records to leather jackets.

Papalote

If you’re looking for a kite to fly elsewhere in Latin America, you’ll probably need to ask for a cometa (with regional variation, of course). In Mexico, however, keep your eyes out for a papalote! This lovely nahuatl word means butterfly, but has evolved to refer to their inanimate counterpart, which flutters brilliantly in the wind. Papalote also lends its name to the lovely children’s museum in Mexico City. A great place to visit if you’re traveling with kids!

Popote

“If you just stop using straws, it doesn’t help me — all disposable plastics do me harm. It had to be said, and I said it! (Courtesy of *Memes de Educación Ambiental.)*

A little context for this meme: plastic straws were banned in Mexico City a few years ago, to protect turtles and other marine animals who are harmed when they’re thoughtlessly discarded. While the ban was largely accepted, many criticized its narrow scope. They felt that other single-use plastics should’ve been eliminated as well. And on January 1, 2021, they were!

When I first went to restaurants in the city with my husband, who’s Peruvian, he was very confused when asking for a straw. When waiters would offer him a popote, he had no idea what they were saying! What he knows as a pajita in most of Latin America — a drinking straw — has a unique Nahuatl origin here in Mexico. The indigenous word popotl literally meant straw, as in the agricultural crop. As a result, it was a quite logical leap to popote, still used frequently all over the country.

Miscellaneous Mexico City Slang Words That Amuse Me

Chin

Pronounced as “cheen,” this word almost always comes with an exclamation point. It’s an expression of surprise that chilangos often exclaim when bad news comes along. “¡Chin! The caterers won’t arrive in time for the wedding.” Or, “¡Chin! The road is flooded ahead, we can’t get through.”

Carnal

Similar to a cuate, your carnal is a close and treasured friend. I included it here because unlike cuate’s indigenous origins, carnal comes from Iberian Spanish. Carne means meat or flesh, so logically, a carnal is like blood of your blood, flesh of your flesh.

Lana

“When you’re ugly but you’ve got money (wool).”
(Courtesy of dopl3r.com.)

Lana was one of the first Mexico City slang words (also used all over Mexico) I learned while still living in the U.S., and it remains a favorite. Many cultures have their own phrases for cash and money, often revealing the area’s realities and history. The United States has bucks, dough, and even, sometimes, bread. Parts of South America call it plata (silver), reflecting the colonial past of mining. In Mexico, many casually refer to money as lana — literally “wool.” I love the regional flavor of this word, recalling the country’s thriving rural past of ranchos and herders. Another common term for cash is varo.

Inventada

One of my favorite light insults in Mexico City, calling someone inventado or inventada is like rolling together pretentious, overconfident, fake, and a bit of egotism. The adjective often accompanies the phrase “se cree mucho:” they think too much of themselves. I often hear someone described as inventada if they’ve been bragging or are seen as overly narcissistic when it comes to clothes, their appearance, or something related.

To wrap up, I hope this rather unwieldy guide serves you well — or at the very least, gives you a chuckle or two. Let me know if you have recommendations for a Part 3!

Mexico City Escapes: 13 Spellbinding Small Towns

Mexico City is rife with charming old neighborhoods and bustling markets — that’s what I love most about living here, after all. Whether I’m in the mood for untouched nature or cobblestone alleyways, there’s something right here in the city. That said, another favorite aspect of the metropolis is just how easily I can leave it, heading out into the unknown whenever it strikes my fancy. Everyone needs a breather from the liveliness (and yes, sometimes chaos) of the big city every now and then, even this Mexico City-obsessed gringa! For me, this often means visiting a pueblo mágico.

Mexico’s beloved *pueblos mágicos* (magic towns) provide a much-needed respite from city life.

Especially as a car-less gringa, I’m spoiled by Mexico’s fantastic long-distance bus system. While in my native U.S., Greyhounds and the like don’t have a stellar reputation, here I can pop into the city’s enormous terminals and hitch a ride nearly anywhere in the country. If you stick with reputable companies like ADO, Futura, and ETN, you’ll typically be riding with style, cleanliness, and comfort. This top-notch system makes it easy to enjoy one of my favorite hobbies: puebleando. This very Mexican verb is a catch-all term for those of us who love exploring Mexico’s hundreds of enchanting pueblos mágicos — “magic” towns the government celebrates for their preserved heritage and beauty.

These diverse *pueblos mágicos* offer something for everyone — from honeymooners to hardcore mountaineers.

Some Mexican pueblos mágicos are far-flung and isolated, but you can reach plenty of them within a few hours of downtown. Whether you’re in the mood for a romantic getaway or active day trip, here’s a guide to my favorite towns and villages surrounding Mexico City! Note that the 1-13 ranking has nothing to do with my preference of one over another — they’re organized by state.

Marvelous Pueblos Mágicos of Mexico State

1) Valle de Bravo

Valle de Bravo’s glimmering reservoir is an important source of water for Mexico City and beyond.

Mexico City’s rich and/or famous flock to this mountainous magic town for the lake views and luxurious living. That doesn’t mean, however, that Valle de Bravo can’t be an accessible, affordable destination for the rest of us. This famed pueblo mágico lies just under two hours from the capital, making it a favorite weekend retreat for many chilangos. Visit during the week, though, and the Sunday crowds give way to a peaceful small town atmosphere.

Valle de Bravo is a steep village spread around a large, attractive reservoir, making for postcard views as you walk down towards the water. The white-washed facades and cobblestone streets are idyllic. Behind the traditional image of the town lies a lot of money these days, meaning a humble basket shop might sit between a fancy boutique and an elegant hotel. But there’s still lots of small town charm in Valle de Bravo — especially once you venture off the beaten track.

Beneath the surface of Valle de Bravo’s glitzy, tourist-oriented vibe lies a traditional small town. Go during the week for a peaceful atmosphere and lovely local markets.

Valle de Bravo Must-Dos:

Take a boat ride (I recommend one of the larger cruisers for the seasick) across the valley reservoir. This is especially stunning at sunset.
Trek up to the main plaza and eat lake trout at one of the lovely, simple restaurants with balconies overlooking the parish church and flowering trees.
Stay the night in one of Valle’s many unique AirBnB rooms or cabins, where you get the chance to watch sunrise and sunset. I enjoyed this one for a birthday a few years ago!
If you’re there between November and March, book a tour to the nearby Monarch Butterfly reserve.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can reach Valle de Bravo in a direct bus from the Poniente (Observatorio) bus station. Look for “Zinabus” once inside the station, they run every hour and a half. You can also buy your tickets beforehand here — just anticipate bad traffic around the terminal, which is my least-favorite bus station in the city. The ride is fine, if a little basic and not very well-ventilated. Urbvan is also running trips there now, in smaller buses.

Driving, it’s a straight shot past Toluca in Western Estado de México. Once again, just keep in mind weekend traffic can be bad.

2) Tepotzotlán

About an hour north of central Mexico City, Tepotzotlán is often overlooked by visitors. Luckily for me, my several wonderful mexiquense friends (folks from Mexico State) have showed me what I was missing! This bustling town has colorful weekend markets, celebrated museums, lively cantinas, and more on offer. Best of all, make this visit into a road trip by visiting the magnificent Arcos del Sitio outside of town.

The far-flung *Arcos del Sitio* are a striking reminder of the colonial past.

Tepotzotlán Must-Dos:

Visit the beautiful Museo Nacional del Virreinato, housed in an intricately carved former Jesuit school. This museum explores the history of the Mexican Viceroyalty, New Spain, during the colonial period.
There’s plenty of good eating in Tepotzotlán, including many garden patio restaurants popular with locals and chilangos alike. Check out Los Virreyes for a nice roof terrace, or explore the downtown’s central market and bountiful snacks.
While they are a little out of the way, you really can’t miss Los Arcos del Sitio. This towering, ancient aqueduct stretches across a rugged, dramatic valley. You can walk across them and even explore the lovely valley below, learning about Mexico State’s long-lost history in the process. You probably need a car — or to pay a taxi driver to wait for you — in order to reach the isolated arcos.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can take the efficient Tren Suburbano (Suburban Train) from Mexico City’s Buenavista Station to the Cuatitlán or Lechería stops, then take an Uber/Didi (or combi labeled “Tepotzotlán Centro,” for the adventurous) to town. Just be cautious during this journey, and don’t take it at night. The train can get very crowded at peak hours. To cut out the fuss, if you’re willing to pay more you can take an Uber/Didi all the way there.

Drivers will pass Ciudad Satélite entering Mexico State, and head up straight into Tepotzotlán. There’s plenty of parking lots in the center. Bring some cash with you.

3) Metepec

Climb to the top of Metepec’s eponymous hill for panoramic views of the surrounding valley.

My first November in Mexico, I was planning to visit a tourist-trap area for Day of the Dead (although I didn’t know it then). When I told my lovely friend Rubí this, she scoffed. “You need to come to my hometown for Día de los Muertos! It’s a pueblo mágico, you’ll love it.” As luck would have it, Rubí was a native of Metepec, a magic town famed for its Day of the Dead celebrations and artisanry. Even better, it’s only an hour and change from Mexico City.

Metepec has been around since Prehispanic times: its name means “the hill of the magueyes (agaves)” in Nahuatl. Neighboring the Valley of Toluca, the region has a rich history that you can still find in varied downtown architecture. I highly recommend visiting in October or early November, so you can enjoy its many Day of the Dead festivities. Townsfolk elaborately decorate the main church and its tall steps (located on the hill, or “tepec,” for which the town was named), hold a sweets fair, and showcase their rich artisanal heritage all over town. If you do visit the Mepetec Cemetery on November 1 or 2, please be very respectful and ask before taking any photos or videos.

Metepec’s stunning Trees of Life are collector’s art pieces that you can cherish for a lifetime. During Day of the Dead, they often exhibit trees of life, death, and catrinas (like this one) downtown.

Metepec Must-Dos:

Visit during the lead-up to Día de los Muertos.
Climb the steps and enjoy the view from the main church.
Visit the mercado de dulces (during Day of the Dead).
Admire spectacular clay Árboles de la Vida, trees of life, in Metepec’s artisan workshops — these detailed, painstaking works of art are renowned throughout Mexico.
Try a garañona, a classic local drink with a unique herbal blend, at the historic Bar 2 de abril. This characterful bar dates back to 1932.
If you’re so inclined, make a weekend of it and continue on to the Nevado de Toluca for a spectacular day hike!

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Head down to Patio Santa Fe, in Southwestern Mexico City, and right near the Toks restaurant, you can buy tickets at a stand for the “Caminante” buses. Or go straight to the Poniente (Observatorio) Bus Station and take the same bus line, in either regular or slightly fancier “Plus.” Either way, these buses go all the way to Toluca, the capital of Mexico State. Ask the bus driver to tell you when you’re near Metepec Centro, and you can take an Uber or taxi into downtown.

Driving, head south towards Santa Fe as well, exiting Mexico City towards Toluca and following signs to Metepec Centro. Whether taking the bus or driving, I don’t recommend returning late at night.

Unforgettable Pueblos Mágicos of Morelos

4) Tepoztlán

Tepoztlán is famous for its mystical, rugged mountains and foggy vistas.

Mexican artists and bohemian expats alike have flocked to Tepoztlán since the early 20th Century. They believe this breathtaking pueblo mágico, an hour south of Mexico City in Morelos State, is not only lovely, but a deeply spiritual place. Tepoztlán’s earliest indigenous residents would have agreed. Around 1200 AD, they began building the mystical Tepozteco on a jagged mountaintop. This small temple is dedicated to Tepoztécatl, God of Pulque (delicious sacred “beer” of the agave plant), Fermentation, and Fertility.

The temple remains to this day, and Tepoztlán has become a place of spiritual and artistic pilgrimage. Luminaries like Chavela Vargas called this pueblito home. Whether you’re seeking inner peace or simply a nice weekend trip, the town’s misty mornings, traditional architecture and rough-hewn mountains will enchant you. It’s even been voted one of the most romantic places on Earth.

Tepoztlán Must-Dos:

Eat traditional Mexican food with a twist at El Ciruelo, a fantastic restaurant (you can reserve on Open Table) with lush mountain views.
Watch the sunset at La Posada del Tepozteco, an iconic hotel perched high above the valley. The panoramic vista here is stunning, but the food at the hotel restaurant is just okay — have a drink here (make reservations beforehand) instead. Or for a special treat, indulge in a night’s stay, especially if you’re looking for a romantic getaway from the city.
A total no-brainer — hike up to the Tepozteco for great views! Just don’t feed local wildlife, or even take out food, as they can be aggressive.
Wander the cobblestone streets and check out local artisanary at many puestos (stands)
Try the town’s famous ice cream, in many creative flavors, at the Tepoznieve shops.
Visit the downtown monastery and church, part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site (unfortunately, due to Covid they currently seem to be closed).
If you don’t mind a crowd, Tepoztlán holds a famed traditional carnaval every February, with striking local traditions stemming from the Moorish/Spanish influence.

Wandering through Tlayacapan’s country roads, it feels as though you’ve been lost in time.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can take a Pullman or OCC (Cristóbal Colón) to Tepoztlán from the Taxqueña Terminal in Southern Mexico City. Like the buses to Valle de Bravo, these are okay, but not particularly wonderful. They drop you off at a gas station just outside town — take a quick taxi or trek down the winding road into downtown.

Driving is quite easy, following the 95 and 95D highways south for about an hour and a half trip. Bring change and small bills for a couple tolls along the way. I do not recommend visiting Tepoztlán on the weekends — traffic is bad and the town gets crowded, and much less pleasant to stroll around or hike the Tepozteco, especially in the Morelos heat.

5) Tlayacapan

Tlayacapan’s fertile fields are rich with agricultural products, from corn to nopal to fruits. Stop at a roadside stand to sample some delicious produce around town!

Not too far from Tepoztlán lies a more tranquil pueblo mágico: Tlayacapan. This tiny town is nestled among rolling hills, rock formations and fields of nopal cacti. Tlayacapan has been inhabited for centuries, boasting an interesting mix of cultural influences. Here, the native Olmec culture was later invaded by the Xochimilcas from Southwestern Morelos. Since this time, the village has played an outsize role in everything from the Spanish Invasion to classic Hollywood films. With quiet, shady streets lined with stucco homes and bougainvillea, the town is a relaxing retreat just south of Mexico City.

Tlayacapan Must-Dos:

Wander the outskirts to explore gorgeous views from the farm fields and discover hidden chapels
Stroll the center and buy Tlayacapan’s famous pottery, including pretty plant pots (macetas).
Visit the village’s UNESCO-recognized site, the historic 16th Century Ex Convento Agustino de San Juan Bautista.
Like Tepoztlán, Tlayacapan is well-known for its carnaval celebrations — and here, you may find a slightly less crazy, crowded atmosphere. (Carnavales are always busy, though.) The festival occurs three days before Ash Wednesday.
Snack on tamales de ceniza (a tamal with a dark color because of beans) and cecina, a flattened and spiced beef popular throughout Morelos.
Hike around the Corredor Biológico Chichinautzin in the nearby hills.

Wander the outskirts of Tlayacapan to find hidden gems like this tiny chapel, lost in time.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can hop on a bus towards Oaxtepec, Morelos from the Taxqueña Bus Station in Mexico City. From there, you’ll find combis or taxis to Tlayacapan. For a simpler trip, of course you can drive directly to Tlayacapan, passing through Tepoztlán on the way down. Combine both for a fun pueblo mágico weekend! When driving back to the city, you can choose to return via Xochimilco, the canal region that’s existed since pre-Aztec times. Stop along the way for a ride in a trajinera and enjoy the unique, UNESCO-lauded scenery as well.

The Silvery Jewel of Guerrero State

6) Taxco

You can’t miss the amazing view of Taxco’s undulating mountains from the Christ statue looming above town.

When the Mexican government first created the “pueblos mágicos” designation in the early 2000s, Taxco was one of the first towns to receive the honor. When you arrive here, following twisting roads up and up into the green mountains of Guerrero, it’s easy to see why. Taxco rises on the mountainside, revealing itself all at once as you crest the final hill. On a sunny day, its white buildings glimmer against the hills.

Once you’re in town, Taxco is just as charming. Be prepared for a workout, as the narrow colonial streets rival San Francisco for steepness. The main plaza is home to a beautifully carved church, and the real joy of Taxco is simply ambling around, discovering its shops, restaurants and hidden corners.

Whether cloudy or clear-skied, sunrise or sunset, Taxco stuns.

Taxco Must-Dos:

Climb (or take a taxi) up to the Cristo statue, a towering Christ above the city. From here, you’ll have jaw-dropping views of Taxco and the undulating mountains. If you do decide to walk from the city center, keep in mind it’s quite a hike and goes through some less touristy areas, as well as being a pretty confusing route up a dirt path at the end. I don’t recommend bringing valuables with you on the climb.
Poke around the town’s many silver workshops, which make everything from jewelry to home decor. While they’ve been mining silver in Taxco’s mountains for centuries, the modern artisanry tradition dates back to a collaboration between taxqueños and U.S. artist William Spratling in the 1920s.
Visit the nearby Grutas de Cacahuamilpa, a unique national park containing a cave system that runs through northern Guerrero state. You’ll find tours here throughout the historical center of Taxco.
Sample Guerrero’s fantastic food at Rosa Mexicano Restaurant, where you’ll take in unbelievable town views on the terrace. Don’t leave Taxco without trying the region’s famous pozole verde stew as well!

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

You can take a comfy first class bus from Taxqueña Terminal on either Costaline or ADO, for a 2.5 hour trip.

If you’re driving, this is a fun stop-off point on the way to Acapulco — another of my favorite weekend spots in Mexico. Take the toll roads for higher quality, well-maintained highways, and only drive during the day. Bring several hundred pesos in cash, as tolls can get pricey in Morelos and Guerrero.

Puebla’s Accessible Stunners

7) Cholula

Cholula’s lovely yellow church, perched upon a large hill (holding many secrets within) has become an iconic image of Puebla State.

Puebla, two hours east of Mexico City, is brimming with small mountain towns and diverse landscapes. If you visit the state capital, Puebla City, you have no excuse to miss Cholula, a pueblo mágico that’s become a suburb of the city! It’s likely you’ve already seen images of Cholula. Its famous yellow church on a hill, Popocatepetl volcano looming in the background, has become an iconic view of Mexico worldwide. But Cholula holds much, much more beneath the surface…quite literally. The town is well-known as the home to many churches — Hernan Cortés wanted to build 365 — but beneath this European religious influence, a deep indigenous undercurrent still flows.

Cholula Must-Dos:

Explore the world’s largest pyramid. Yep, you heard me right: below that photo-friendly yellow church, Cholula’s famous “hill” is actually a huge pyramid that long predates the Aztecs. It’s covered in vegetation now, but follow signs to the “Zona Arqueológica” to enter its narrow corridors and walk through the center of the hill. On the other side, you’ll discover an excavated portion of the pyramid. It’s the closest I’ve gotten to feeling like Indiana Jones.
Admire views of Puebla’s iconic volcanoes, Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. Once you’ve seen the archaeological site, climb the steps to the Spanish church at the top, and enjoy some of the region’s best panoramas.
Grab a bite to eat at the center’s many rooftop restaurants. Look for “terraza” signs and choose ones with a great view of town — especially fun at sunset.
Have a drink in Container City. Cholula’s a university city with great nightlife, and this spot’s the center of it all. Take your pick of bars and clubs, built from old metal storage containers in this creative place that pulsates with life on the weekends.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

There are constant buses of all price levels between Mexico City and Puebla, running day and night. You can take them from the airport bus station, TAPO, Taxqueña, and more. I recommend ADO for a safe and comfortable ride to Puebla City’s Central Terminal. From there, you can take buses, Uber, or — more fun! — the light rail to downtown Cholula.

8) Atlixco

Atlixco’s windy streets lined with colorful buildings lead you up and up, towards breathtaking churches and monasteries.

Just a half hour from Puebla, Atlixco sits perched on a mountain with views of the neighboring volcanoes on a clear day. This village is beloved among poblanos (Puebla natives) for its balmy climate and brilliant, multicolored buildings. As you trek through the steep stone streets, don’t forget to look back down. Often, the best vistas are found when you least expect them — pay attention to the many lovely details in Atlixco. While I’ve include some “must-dos” and wrote an entire guide to Atlixco a few years ago, don’t hew to a strict plan here. Indulge in your wanderlust and enjoy Atlixco’s many pleasures, include vibrant churches built by the region’s indigenous people, who added their own artistic flourishes to Catholic buildings during the colonial period.

The higher you climb Atlixco’s picturesque streets, the lovelier the town’s views become.

Atlixco Must-Dos:

Take a snapshot at La Escalera Ancha, the famous mural-staircase. Go just up from the center to climb these colorful steps which depict a traditional Atlixco couple. Talented local muralist Juan Manuel Martínez Caltenco painted the steps in the early months of the pandemic.
Eat pozole, mole, and whatever else your heart desires at the Atlixco market. Just ask around for the mercado, right downtown, and enjoy the best food for an unbeatable price.
Check out the local viveros (plant nurseries). Atlixco is famous for its agreeable climate, which makes it perfect for cultivating plants year-round. Before Christmas, you’ll find many dedicated to nochebuenas — poinsettias. This time of year, the nurseries glow with thousands of red and white flowers.
Visit during the popular Christmas lights festival from mid-December until January 6. Be prepared for big crowds, though. (I find it’s best to go towards the end, in early January.)
Try traditional poblano sweets from the many carts on the main plaza. My favorites are tortitas de Santa Clara (delicious cookies made with pumpkin seed cream by nuns) and camotes (candied sweet potato taffy).

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Combine Atlixco with a visit to Puebla and Cholula if you like. Take a bus to Puebla (as described in the previous pueblo mágico’s section), then get a direct bus on Autobuses Oro to Atlixco for $35 pesos. These run every 40 minutes and will take you to right near the village center.

Quaint Querétaro State

9) Tequisquiapan

Tequisquiapan’s stunningly pink central parish is just as pretty on the inside.

I knew “Tequis,” as many call it, would be pretty — but I underestimated just how lovely it is! This classic Querétaro town features street after street of charming restaurants and cafes, interspersed with dozens of high quality artisan shops selling the best of the region’s talented craftspeople. Just outside town lie many wineries, popular with locals and visitors alike for their tours and tastings. Tequisquiapan is less than a three hour ride from Mexico City, but instantly transports you to small town life. It may well be one of my favorite pueblos mágicos so far!

Tequisquiapan is one of the best-preserved, loveliest *pueblos* I’ve had the privilege of visiting so far.

Tequisquiapan Must-Dos:

Wander the picture-perfect town center, paying special attention to the highly detailed Parroquia Santa María de la Asunción, a gorgeous 19th Century pink church in the main square.
Shop for top-notch Tequis artisanry, including cane & wicker baskets and wool products, at the Mercado de Artesanías, downtown Centro de Artesanías, weekend Parador Artesanal by the bus station, and whichever little shop catches your eye.
Taste Querétaro sweets, cheeses and meats at the many tienditas around town. My favorite was a tres leches cheese made from cow, goat, and sheep’s milk.
Learn about the region’s viniculture at beautiful local wineries — I recommend the excellent tour at Viñedos La Redonda, which also offers picnics and wine tastings outdoors.
Try typical queretana food and seasonal specialties at K’puchinos Restaurant alongside the parish church. (FYI, their guacamole is also great.)

Head out of Tequis and into the region’s many inviting vineyards for wine-tastings, picnics, and more.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Luckily for all of us, it’s surprisingly easy to reach Tequis from the capital. Pop over to the bustling CDMX Terminal del Norte to get a luxury ETN bus straight to this magic town. Flecha Roja also offers buses from here, but they’re only slightly cheaper, and ETN has incredibly comfy seats, a quiet atmosphere, decent wifi, and even seatback screens with popular movies (dubbed in Spanish) that make the trip pass infinitely faster. Once at the Tequis station, grab a taxi into downtown for about $40 pesos.

Driving, take the 57D Highway into Querétaro, then follow the 120 the rest of the way. Avoid rush hours — especially on the way back into town — and stop for barbacoa (delectable roast mutton) and its consommé along the way in Mexico State. I loved visiting Tequisquiapan during the week, rather than the weekend, for a chiller vibe.

10) Peña de Bernal

The iconic *peña,* the world’s third largest monolith, rises high over Bernal.

This teeny-tiny village of cobblestone streets makes a wonderful day trip if you’re visiting Tequisquiapan or the gorgeous state capital, Querétaro. (I need to do a guide on Querétaro City itself!) Peña de Bernal is named for its striking monolith, the “peña.” The enormous rock is one of the world’s largest, second only to the Rock of Gibraltar and Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro. You can see it from every street in downtown, making for postcard views around every corner in this photogenic pueblo mágico.

Peña de Bernal Must-Dos:

Climb the peña itself for panoramic views (and a good workout).
Sample Bernal’s many delicious cheese and sweet shops with regional specialties.
Grab a table at Tierracielo restaurant for Querétaro-style enchiladas, great views, and live Spanish guitar music.
Munch on the town’s famous snacks: blue corn gorditas and pan de queso, a sweet cheese bread sold on every street.
Check out the Museo de la Máscara (Mask Museum) for hundreds of fascinating — sometimes even disturbing! — masks, many made by locals in Bernal.
Discover Bernal’s most famous artisan products: exquisite wool tapestries, rugs, blankets, and clothing.

Peña de Bernal is famous for its woolen artisanry, including intricate tapestries.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Driving, getting to Bernal is quite easy. Just follow Waze directions and avoid leaving the city at busy times, like Friday afternoon. Busing… is a bit more complicated. You can take buses from the Mexico City Terminal del Norte to nearby town Ezequiel Montes on the Coordinados or Flecha Roja line. From here, it’s easy to get a taxi (or rickety bus) to Bernal. However, it’s harder to get a taxi back, and you may find more success taking a bus. They’re shaky, but reliable for just 17 pesos, and leave from Calle Independencia. (Use this spot as a reference for the bus’s departure.)

I recommend that as Bernal’s so small, you combine this trip with a visit to Tequisquiapan or Querétaro. You can get buses to either Ezequiel Montes or Tequis, then follow the above instructions to get to Bernal. You’ll also find Tequisquiapan tour providers who offer visits to Peña de Bernal along with several local vineyards.

The *peña* has many moods: shifting from dark and foreboding, to cheery and inviting depending on the climate.

Mountainous Gems of Hidalgo

11) Real del Monte

Real del Monte is known for its refreshing, thin mountain air and European heritage.

Hidalgo, a mountainous state north of Mexico City, is one of the most underrated regions in the country. While tourists flock to the coasts and well-known spots like Guadalajara, Hidalgo’s stunning pueblos mágicos and natural wonders fly under the radar. Rising and falling along a peak, Real del Monte is one of the state’s most accessible magic towns. This village of fresh, thin air and blue skies is just a short drive from the state capital, Pachuca, but feels as if little has changed in a century.

Real del Monte Must-Dos:

Taste Hidalgo’s famous pastes, savory and sweet empanadas served warm from the oven. These aren’t just yummy. Pastes reflect Real del Monte’s heritage, dating back over a century to the arrival of British miners! A “Spanishization” of the British pasties, miners from regions like Cornwall developed this hand pie to eat deep in the mines. It’s the perfect food for miners with dirty hands and no silverware. As a result, it adapted perfectly to Hidalgo’s 19th Century mines. Over time, Mexicans added their own unique flavors to make a tasty hybrid.
Trek up Real del Monte’s steep streets, enjoying views of the picturesque valley below.
If you’re not afraid of small spaces, check out the historic Mina de Acosta, where you can descend 400 meters (feet) into a 17th Century mine.
Delve into Real del Monte’s British past at the misty, mysterious Panteón Inglés. This cemetery holds the souls of many Brit miners who once toiled in Hidalgo mines in search of a better life — and the promising glint of gold and silver.

Signs, from cobblers to doctor’s offices, are painted in a traditional style throughout Real del Monte.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

Both driving and busing are fairly easy, straightforward options due to Real del Monte’s proximity to Pachuca, the state capital. You can take one of the plentiful buses to Pachuca from Mexico City’s Terminal del Norte. These are available from Futura Select (luxurious), ADO (comfy), or Ovnibus (normal, budget ride). From the station, take a taxi/Uber the rest of the way, about a half hour into town. On the way back, fortunately there’s quite a few taxis in Real del Monte to take you back to the Pachuca bus terminal.

Driving, take the 85D north, passing through Pachuca and then steadily climbing to the pueblo mágico. Real del Monte is also known as Mineral del Monte, so don’t get confused if you see this on maps. Bring cash for tolls, and extra cash for purchases in town.

12) Mineral del Chico

Viewed from a peak in El Chico National park, these striking rock formations are known as “the nuns.”

Since the colonial era, Hidalgo state has served as a center for Mexican mining. Rich in precious metals like gold and silver, the Spanish first seized on the area’s wealth, followed by miners from Britain, Canada, and elsewhere. While mining is no longer the cash cow it once was, the industry has a long and lasting heritage around the state. This is perhaps most present in Mineral del Chico, a town founded amidst the mining boom in 1565. Today, the rush is long over, but the legacy of beautiful historic buildings and rugged mountains remains. “El Chico,” as many call it, is nestled in a Mexican National Park. This makes for fantastic hiking and adventure sports throughout the area.

Mineral del Chico Must-Dos:

Sip a warm hidalguense coffee while cozying up in a café, watching the fog slowly lift during Mineral del Chico’s misty mornings.
Stay the night in one of the area’s rustic cabins in the mountains, like these.
Hike into “El Chico” National Park, following trails up to panoramic peaks. If you’re (much) more adventurous than me, hop onto one of the challenging rappel/rock climbing courses to reach the summit. This provider is well-regarded, but still gave me the chills!
Walk through the village’s winding, stone-paved streets, enjoying the clean air and smell of native pine, oak, and oyamel fir.

After a long day of hiking, savor a rich local coffee or hot chocolate in Mineral del Chico’s charming town center.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

A car is very helpful if you plan on visiting Mineral del Chico — especially if you’re interested in hiking in the surrounding natural areas. The drive is only two hours from Mexico City, and renting a car will be the most direct way to arrive — just make sure you or your driver is comfortable with windy mountain roads. Bring cash for the tolls along the way: you’ll be taking the 85D highway almost the entire route. Bring dramamine (ask for dramamina in the pharmacy) with you, as the roads are exceptionally twisty.

If driving isn’t an option, you can take a bus from the Terminal del Norte to Pachuca, then take a taxi the next 30-40 minutes to Mineral del Chico. Keep in mind, however, that getting a taxi back might be much harder. Get your taxista‘s business card, and see if you can arrange for them to pick you up on your return date/time.

13) Huasca de Ocampo

At the colonial *Hacienda San Miguel Regla,* lakes and weeping willows lie around every corner.

Just a little farther into Hidalgo, you’ll stumble upon a region traversed by ghosts, peculiar landscapes and rich history. Huasca de Ocampo is home to some of Mexico’s most unique attractions, including the famous Prismas Basálticos. The colorful small town is well-worth an overnight stay, giving you time to enjoy Huasca itself and explore the area’s gorgeous haciendas and nature. It’s no wonder that the government selected Huasca de Ocampo as the very first pueblo mágico back in 2001, when they first introduced the program!

Huasca de Ocampo Must-Dos:

Take a volcanic walk through the one-of-a-kind Prismas Basálticos (Basaltic Prisms). As you stare down into this canyon, thousands of towering volcanic rock columns rise up towards you. You can descend into the canyon and walk amongst the columns, enjoying the strange sight as several waterfalls cascade over the dark basalt. Don’t miss it!

The *Prismas Basálticos* form a unique natural phenomenon in the Huasca region.

Trek through dramatic valleys and drink in the views from jaw-dropping cliffs. Within the regional biosphere reserve, visit two spectacular ravines: the Barrancas of Metztitlán and Aguacatitla. Nearby, visit the equally impressive Peña del Aire rock formation.
Channel Zorro at the cinematic Hacienda Santa María Regla, where they filmed the iconic Antonio Banderas movie. Take a tour of this atmospheric, slightly creepy old hacienda to see the dungeons and more.
Live out your childhood treehouse fantasies in a Pinochueco cabin. Suspended in the forest canopy outside town, these well-equipped cabins give you a peaceful, green escape from the city.
Seek out colonial phantoms and memories while wandering the Hacienda San Miguel Regla. This sprawling colonial property has been well restored. Today, it features a pleasant hotel and gorgeous grounds, including several small lakes and ruins. Step back in time as you wander its willow-lined waterways and peer at 17th Century stoneworks.

How to Get to this Pueblo Mágico from Mexico City:

If you’re driving, be sure to enjoy a delicious barbacoa on the way once in Hidalgo! Take the México-Pachuca highway (the same as the 85D) north to Pachuca, then follow the Corredor de la Montaña. If arriving by transit, take one of the many buses from the Terminal del Norte to Pachuca. From there, you can get a taxi to Huasca.

Mexico City’s Sensational Street Food: How to Eat Your Way Through Town

Mexico City is going through a gastronomic renaissance. The vibrant metropolis is buzzing with new restaurant openings, from flavorful international joints to revivals of. Despite all this hype — some of it well-deserved — the city’s lifeblood isn’t found in these fancy, instagrammable hotspots. It’s in Mexico City street food.

Delicious delicacies can be found is on every corner in town. Even in the wealthiest neighborhoods, a taco truck will sneak its way in, a tianguis (weekly market) or neighborhood bazaar setting up wherever it can find the space. Street food is a way of life in this city! This guide will take you through the classics you can try.

Elote and Esquites

This first go-to street food is almost too obvious to mention. Corn has been king in Mexico since ancient times, and today is no exception. (Drive six hours south of Mexico City, and you’ll arrive in Tehuacán, whose church holds the oldest corn kernels in the country.) Everywhere in the city, you’ll come across the tantalizing scent of roast corn.

Elote, the basis of Mexican street food. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

This, of course, is from elote and esquites, staples of everyday life in the country. Elote is a corn cob, either boiled or roasted, then placed on a stick. Esquites is similar, but has been boiled with poblano peppers, cut off the cob and placed in a cup to eat with a spoon. Both get a bath of crema (Mexican sour cream), lime, crumbly and salty cotija cheese, and as much or as little chile as you want. I always search out the roasted elote on the grill, as I love its charred flavor.

Best Spots to Enjoy It: Outside the Anthropology Museum on Reforma Avenue, buy tasty roast elote and enjoy it on a bench under the tree canopy, across the street in Chapultepec Forest. If you’re more adventurous, get the beloved esquites at the Mercado Jamaica flower market downtown. A famous stand there sells them made with cacahuazintle, a unique large-kerneled corn native to Mexico, and flavors them with fragrant herbs and spices. Really, however, you can enjoy this treat anywhere in the city!

Pambazos

Oh, the glory that is the pambazo, Mexico City’s legendary sandwich. My first week working in the city, my new friend took me to the tianguis (open air markets that have existed since Aztec days) that took over the street near our office every Thursday. There, we had to choose between every possible type of Mexico City street food.

A stack of sauce-soaked, crispy bread rolls awaits their flavorful filling. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Out of all this abundance, she recommended I try the pambazo. My life has never been the same…this sandwich is a uniquely chilango creation. The cook soaks bread in a tomato and chile-based sauce, then bakes it all over again. Once you order your pambazo, they’ll toss some chorizo and chopped potatoes onto the grill to cook, topping them off with crema and salsa. After that, eat up! The result is a delicious blend of textures (crunchy, soft) and flavors (spice, meatiness, acidity). Every once in a while, I get an intense craving for one of these and search out the closest street cart.

Torta de Tamal/Guajolota

Every weekday morning, Mexico City’s metro, buses, and roads fill with godinez, workers heading off to their offices. On their way through the hustle and bustle of the city, many stop for a wholesome breakfast: the guajolota, or torta de tamal. This is exactly what it sounds like: a tamale sandwich.

The *guajolota* may not be the most beautiful food, but trust me on its deliciousness. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

When I first came to the city, I thought this was a terrible idea for a food. Who’s ever eaten a tamale and thought, “I need more bread and carbohydrates on this”? And yet, that fateful day when I finally got one…I loved it. Somehow, the combo of crusty bolillo (a Mexican sandwich roll) and tamale just works, especially once salsa and even avocado or jalapeño add new textures to the mix. I only eat them every once in a while, but when I do, it’s the ultimate godín indulgence!

Atole and Champurrado

Remember how corn is king in Mexico? That extends throughout Mexico City street food, from meals (tamales) to snacks (elote) to drinks! On those bustling workweek mornings, right next to the tamale stands you’ll see vendors selling steaming cups of atole, a traditional corn-based drink. It’s sweet, with a creamy, satisfying texture that’s perfect for chilly mornings in the mountainous city. Even better is champurrado, basically atole prepared with chocolate. It’s like a thicker version of hot chocolate, and I treat myself to one every once in a while.

*Champurrado* is like a thick, filling hot chocolate. I love the one’s served in Desierto de los Leones National Park. Photo by the gringa herself.

Best Spots to Enjoy It: Just like tamales and elote, you can find this treat almost anywhere in the city every morning. That said, however, the best champurrado I’ve had is in Desierto de los Leones National Park, a lovely pine forest in the south of the city. (I have to do a whole post on this place soon.) There’s a row of little open air restaurants there, with delicious fresh champurrado and a perfect, crisp woodland atmosphere.

Camote (Mexican Sweet Potato)

Mexico City is a sensory experience: locals can take a quick glance at a picture, whiff of a certain smell, or even tune into a particular sound, and they know it’s their beloved Ciudad de México. One of the most distinctive sounds of the cityscape comes every evening around 6 pm. Sitting in my house or working at the office, I hear a long, low whistle echo through the street below. No matter where they are in the world now, chilangos remember that sound with longing and nostalgia.

*Camoteros* and their steam whistle are an iconic part of Mexico City life. Photo courtesy of Flickr.

That melancholy whistle is a relic of Mexico City’s past, passing through the 21st century metropolis. It comes from the camotero: the sweet potato vendor pushing his heavy metal cart down the streets and alleyways of the city. Inside the cart, flavorful camotes are steaming, and he releases the steam out of a chute to create the whistle sound. As a result, people know the camotero is nearby, and they can come down to buy his delicious wares. He serves the sweet potatoes with toppings like brown sugar and sweetened condensed milk. Buying his wares is not only delicious: it’s taking a step back in time, and supporting a Mexico City street food tradition.

Tacos, Quekas, Oh My! (Variations on Tortilla + Meat)

I could make an entire guide (an entire encyclopedia, in fact) just explaining the combinations of tortillas and meat you can find in this city. A famous Mexican comedian even has a joke about popular Mexico City street foods: when you boil it down to the essentials, most are a combo of tortilla, meat, beans, and salsa! But in short, here are the two most common tortilla-meat combos you’ll find in in the city. Others I don’t have space to describe in detail here include: gorditas (thick corn dough stuffed with meat), tostadas (fried hard tortilla topped with almost anything you can think of, sopes (a little corn masa circle topped with vegetables, meat, and cheese), gringas (a rare flour tortilla in Mexico City, filled with melty cheese and meat)…and oh my gosh, so many more.

Tacos:

You already know this one — small tortilla filled with meat, topped with salsa, and often white onion, cilantro, and as much lime juice as possible. But there’s endless variation within this simple template! Tacos al pastor are the most popular in Mexico City, and these spit-roasted, marinated pork tacos topped with pineapple are beloved for good reason. They came to Mexico via Lebanese immigrants at the turn of the last century. Beyond pastor, you can get chorizo (spiced sausage), arrachera (flank steak), lengua (tongue), tacos de canasta (tacos made at home and sold from baskets), even sometimes sesos (brains). And that’s only the tip of the iceberg!

Mexico City street food is incredibly diverse! I love this guide, which (if you speak Spanish) goes through the taxonomy of dishes. Photo courtesy of Pictoline.

Quesadillas:

You probably think you know what these are. Tortillas filled with melted cheese, right? Haha, think again. Mexico City street vendors very logically decided that quesadillas shouldn’t have cheese, unless specified. It’s a weird quirk of the city. Here, you have to order a “quesadilla con queso” (with cheese) if that’s what you want! Cheese or no cheese, these are tortilled stuffed with beef, chicken, etc., folded in half and fried. They’re delicious, and go by the nickname quekas.

Final note: One of the best things about Mexico City taco stands is consommé. The cook saves the delicious meat juices as he’s making beef tacos, and turns them into incredibly flavorful soup! They’ll give it to you free with your tacos. Add cilantro and lime, and enjoy. (If you’re eating barbacoa tacos, you’re in for an especially delicious consommé.)

Chilaquiles

A block from my office, godinez line up every Friday morning for a Mexico City delicacy: chilaquiles. This dish is what office workers dream about all week. A bed of crispy totopos (fresh tortilla chips) is drowned in spicy, acidic green or red salsa made especially for the chilaquiles. You can throw some chicken, flank steak, or fried eggs on top, then everything gets a dousing of chopped white onion, cotija cheese, and crema (Mexican sour cream). The flavors mix and mingle: crunchy and soft, rich and spicy, savory and sour.

For a Mexico City twist, get a torta de chilaquiles. This is literally a sandwich filled with green chilaquiles. Yes, chilangos make sandwiches out of everything! Finally, there’s an eternal debate about which are better, red or green. I’m a strong proponent for green, but try both and decide for yourself…that green is better.

Best Spots to Enjoy It: I strongly recommend you seek out a place with a big grill, where they’re cooking everything fresh and only pour the salsa on once you order. If you see a bucket full of sauce and mushy tortilla chips, stay away. I am a weekly addict at a little white cart on Berlin Street in the Colonia Juárez, in between the streets Londres and Hamburgo.

Honorable Mentions

This guide is already getting rather long, and alas, there’s so much more I could say. To sum up, Mexico City street food is truly its own universe, full of endless possibilities. If dishes can possibly be combined or remixed, someone will do it — and go viral on Facebook in the process. Here’s a few honorable mentions that didn’t make it above:

August/September brings pomegranate to every fruit stand, while winter means fresh, smooth mango. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

Jochos: A Mexicanization of the word “hot dog,” but these are so much more. Hot dogs here are often wrapped in bacon, and topped with rajas (pickled vegetables), jalapeño chiles, and chopped onions. So flavorful!

Fresh Fruit and Juices: These are another staple on every street corner. Find chopped mango, jícama, even cups of pomegranate seeds depending on the seeds, and enjoy the freshest fruit. In the mornings, stop by a juice stand and order your custom blend of fruits and vegetables, all for a buck or two. If you go to a hipster “juice bar” in Mexico City, you’re wasting money and cheating yourself.

Chicharrón: I must admit, my jaw dropped the first time I saw someone walking down the street with a giant chicharrón. These fried pork skins are sold in little pieces as a snack, but it’s especially memorable when somebody buys the skin of an entire pig for their family. Sounds gross. Absolutely fantastic.

Movie Lover’s Guide to the Best Mexican Films

The coronavirus pandemic and self-isolation are drastically changing the very fabric of society, from the way we work to what we do in our free time. For many of us, this means passing time indoors reading, exploring creative pursuits… and after that, lots and lots of streaming. In my case, I’ve been watching a hodgepodge of crime shows, old school comedies, and of course, beloved Mexican films.

More than just entertainment, our newfound watch time is an opportunity to learn about new places and cultures — to discover new directors and actors, countries and languages. With this in mind, I’ve assembled a few of my favorite Mexican films for your viewing pleasure! No list could ever capture the rich diversity of Mexican movies over the decades. Rather, this is a small sampling to pique your interest and give you a wide-ranging view on life and cinema here.

1. Y Tu Mamá También (And Your Mother Too)

*Image courtesy of 20th Century Fox/FlixWatch.*

Before Roma, before Gravity, before the Oscars and international renown, Alfonso Cuarón was a young Mexican filmmaker who wanted to capture a slice of life in his country. The result of his efforts was Y Tu Mamá También, the ultimate Mexican road trip movie and one of my all-time favorite films.

The movie follows Julio (middle-class) and Tenoch (upper-class), two Mexico City teen boys. They invite a beautiful Spanish woman, Luisa, on a road trip to the untouched beaches of Oaxaca. The spontaneous trip will bring unintended consequences for the trio. Meanwhile, Y Tu Mamá También propelled actors Diego Luna and Gael García Bernal to stardom and made a name for the young director.

With its contemporary soundtrack, heavy use of Chilango slang, and deep-seated class, political, and sexual tensions, the movie set the standard for a new era of Mexican films. It’s a deceptively simple movie. Yet Julio, Tenoch, and Luisa’s journey across Mexico expresses many subtle truths about both the country’s beauty and its sharp, cruel divisions. Y Tu Mamá También sketches Mexico at the turn of the 21st century. It depicts a rapidly changing society reeling from NAFTA’s transformative economic effects, yet still relatively calm before the start of the drug war.

Y Tu Mamá También is available on Netflix US and the Criterion Collection.

2. La Jaula de Oro (The Golden Dream*)

A starkly different kind of “road” movie. This little-known film from director Diego Quemada-Díez follows another trio, these young people moving across Mexico with much higher stakes. Juan, Sara, and Samuel are Central American preteens who leave home with a few belongings — seemingly without telling family. They head north, crossing into Mexico with the hope of reaching a better life in the United States.

Once in southern Mexico, they begrudgingly allow Chauk, an indigenous Tzotzil Mayan boy, to join their group. Together, the kids head north on la Bestia, the dangerous cargo trains that many migrants ride. This isn’t the first time this journey has been placed on film. However, La Jaula de Oro is by far the most beautiful and heart-wrenching depiction. These young amateur actors convey the innocence and hope, love and realism of young migrants who have to grow up far too quickly. The film immerses you in their world: where adolescent jealousies and a youthful sense of adventure coexist with the nagging, very real fear of assault, rape, kidnapping, and detainment.

La Jaula de Oro is available to rent on YouTube.

*A more accurate translation of the original Spanish title is “The Golden Cage,” however, the film’s creators chose the English title “The Golden Dream.”

3. Como Agua para Chocolate (Like Water for Chocolate)

*Image courtesy of The University of Texas at Austin.*

For a magical realist escape from reality, Like Water for Chocolate is a fun and fantastical romp through Revolution-era Mexico. The film is based on the famous book by Laura Esquivel. Both book and movie follow a Northern Mexican family through trials of love and loyalty during the 1910s and beyond. The action is centered around food, as the protagonist is a jilted woman who pours all her repressed desires and feelings into elaborate meals. The movie will have your mouth watering for baroque Mexican dishes. (Enjoy them for real at El Cardenal once self-isolation ends!) It’s a little fluffy and melodramatic — and a hell of a lot of fun.

Like Water for Chocolate is available to rent on Amazon Prime.

4. Rojo Amanecer (Red Dawn)

*Image courtesy of La Izquierda Diario.*

Rojo Amanecer is no escapist flick. On the contrary, it’s one of the most important Mexican films in history, depicting a moment shrouded in darkness and controversy. When director Jorge Fons decided to make a film about the 1968 Tlatelolco Massacre, he was risking his own reputation and career. It takes place over the course of one infamous day. On October 2, 1968, the Mexican army and paramilitaries opened fire on student protesters and killed hundreds in Tlatelolco Square. This occurred just 10 days before the Mexico City Olympics.

The film follows a middle-class Mexican family living in an apartment on Tlatelolco Square. As the day begins, the family bickers and goes about their daily routines. By nightfall, all of them have witnessed a brutal, state-sponsored mass killing. Their ordinary domestic life has been shattered, and more bloodshed is to come before the dawn.

Despite filming Rojo Amanecer two decades after the massacre itself, Fons still faced government censorship that nearly derailed the project. He shot the movie secretly in a warehouse, unable to show the full extent of the day’s violence. As a result, the film takes place entirely in the family’s apartment. We don’t see the massacre and chaos in the plaza itself. Instead, we see only the horrified reactions of the family witnessing the killing from their high-rise window. The effect is powerful. We feel their fear, the oppressive claustrophobia as they are trapped inside, phone lines and electricity cut.

One family’s apartment becomes a microcosm of Mexican society on that fateful day, reflecting the paralysis and bitter conflict that ensued. The result is an important, necessary, and difficult entry into the lexicon of Mexican films.

Rojo Amanecer is available on Facebook here.

5. Roma

Roma came out to so much fanfare in 2018, from Oscar nominations (and wins) to feverish praise from Mexican and international critics. So when I watched it, my expectations were already sky high. As a result, I couldn’t help but feel a tiny bit let down by the much-hyped film. After all, almost no movie could live up to such high praise!

While Roma isn’t my favorite Mexican film, it is very well done, and certainly worth a watch. The movie is a beautifully-shot exploration of the life of Cleo, a domestic worker in 1970s Mexico City. Roma follows her life during a tumultuous period for Cleo, the family she works for, and the city itself. Set in black and white, the film looks back at director Alfonso Cuarón’s own childhood through the eyes of his beloved nanny (a fictionalized version of her, anyway).

My advice is to go into the film without expectations, and without reading reviews beforehand. Watch with subtitles — in Spanish, ideally. (The movie features a lot of obscure Mexico City slang terms and can be hard to follow for non-native speakers.) Finally, appreciate Roma‘s sensory details. No film captures the sounds of Mexico City better than this one. The street musicians, the trash-collector’s bell, the camotero’s whistle, the melodic and chaotic cacophony. For this alone, the film is worth a watch (and listen).

Roma is available to stream on Netflix.

6. Miss Bala

This Mexican thriller from Gerardo Naranjo is unsettlingly, ominously quiet. We’re used to fast-paced Hollywood action movies with slick dialogue and frequent explosions. Miss Bala, however, is more of an inaction movie. It makes the most of actress Stephanie Sigman’s expressive face as she tries to survive an impossible situation through passivity and acquiescence. Most rational people would probably have done the same.

There is no hero in Miss Bala. It’s a movie about the ways Mexico’s problem with organized crime and violence takes away ordinary peoples’ agency and voice. All of this is channelled through Laura Guerrero (Sigman), a young beauty pageant contestant who becomes unwittingly wrapped up in Northern Mexico’s organized crime. The film doesn’t provide easy answers or a satisfying resolution. Instead, it focuses on the gray areas between criminal and civilian, government and cartel, that arise with a weak and corrupt state. These shadows make for fascinating, thought-provoking film.

Miss Bala is available to rent on Amazon Prime. Moreover, be sure not to confuse it with the widely-derided 2019 Hollywood remake.

7. María Candelaria

This 1944 film is the oldest on the list, hearkening back to Mexico’s Golden Age of Cinema. María Candelaria takes place in Xochimilco. (This agricultural canal region of Southern Mexico City is so iconic, it’s been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.) Legendary Mexican actor and director Emilio “El Indio” Fernández filmed in Xochimilco itself. As a result, the area really becomes its own vital character.

The film follows María Candelaria, a young woman (played by beloved actress Dolores del Río) who lives on a flower-covered chinampa (island farm) in 1909. The setting certainly seems idyllic, almost dreamlike. But María’s mother was a prostitute, and the villagers treat María and her fiancé as pariahs. When a renowned painter becomes obsessed with María’s beauty, a tragic course of events is set into action.

Nowadays, Xochimilco is a part of Mexico City, its famous canals and chinampas much diminished. But in the 1940s, the area was still pristine, small villages sitting far outside the big city. The location serves as a symbol for all of rural Mexico right before the violent, destructive Revolution and 20th Century transformations. With spectacular music, setting, and cinematography, the film is a well-deserved giant in Mexican film history.

Watch María Candelaria on Facebook here.

8. Güeros

Imagine an old school road movie — filmed in black and white, nostalgic soundtrack, friends on an epic quest as they drive for hours down endless roads. Both Mexico and the U.S. have their fair share of road movies, with plenty of beautiful landscapes and desolates highways to film on either side of the border. Güeros takes this age-old movie formula, and twists it. Here, the kids set off on their road trip…and basically never leave Mexico City.

This “urban” road movie follows a group of young students navigate the never-ending streets, traffic, slums and highways and even farms of Mexico City metro area. A troubled tween is sent from coastal Veracruz to the capital to stay with his older brother in the capital. After they both become obsessed with finding an old, obscure Mexican rock-and-roll star, this improbable quest sends them all through the city. Above all, it’s a joy to watch them meander through the UNAM (National Autonomous University), Chapultepec Forest, the center, even Texcoco. The Mexican film is a sweet and pensive rumination on the passionate curiosity of youth, exploring the city as its own self-contained universe.

You can rent Güeros on YouTube.

Mexican Films: Honorable Mentions

There are several Mexican films that for whatever reason, I 1) Just didn’t connect with personally and found hard to watch, or 2) Haven’t had time to watch fully yet, but come highly recommended by friends and colleagues. These are those films.

Los Olvidados (The Young and the Damned):

Firstly, this midcentury classic by Luis Buñuel. Los Olvidados is considered as one of the only films in history to unflinchingly depict young, troubled delinquents. It is a sad, often brutal film to watch, but a fascinating and important look at rough young lives on the outskirts of Mexico City. It’s become part of the fabric and historic and 20th Century Mexican films.

Amores Perros:

Secondly comes Amores Perros, a surprisingly hard-to-watch popular film. Everyone loves this fast-paced early movie that subsequently propelled director Alejandro González Iñárritu into the spotlight. It traces several storylines around the capital city, exposing fault lines of class and identity. On the other hand, I just can’t stomach its depiction of dogfights and other suffering dogs…and that’s the whole theme of the movie.

Canoa:

This film depicts a horrific real-life event. In documentary style, it follows a group of students who became the victims of anti-communist fervor during a hiking trip. Canoa depicts the heady atmosphere of political fear and repression in 1970s Mexico. It’s simply not in the main list above because, well, I still need to see it!

Museo:

This is the second film from Alonso Ruizpalacios, director of Güeros. While it didn’t receive as much critical acclaim as his first film, Museo was praised for its unique style. The movie retells a stranger-than-fiction heist from the ’80s. Then, a couple of slacker students decided to rob hundreds of priceless Prehispanic artifacts from the National Anthropology Museum. Improbably, they succeeded.

In short, Mexico has been home to an incredibly rich, diverse film industry since the days of silent movies. Because of this, keep in mind that this guide is only a small taste of Mexican cinema heritage. Finally, write the Gringa’s Guide a message on Facebook with your recommendations on what else to watch!

8 Essential Mexican Books to Read During Quarantine

Every night since I began my quarantine a month ago, I stand at my window — about 10 tall stories above southern Mexico City. Of all the places to “self-isolate,” I’d choose here. I can watch the sunset, then stare out and see the twinkling lights of a million apartments and houses rising up the mountainsides in the distance. There is no better place to contemplate the beauty and fragility of our existence. And the spectacular, precarious, over-populated chaos we all live through in this wonderful monster of a city. And curl up on my sofa, with one of my favorite Mexican books.

But it should come as no surprise that even as I enjoy my home and my solitude, I’m also jonesing to travel. Gazing out the window is great, but it also reminds me of all the places I love, those I’ve yet to visit, and the people I’m longing to see in this miraculous country.

Mexico City is full of passionate readers and beautiful bookstores…I’ll dedicate a future guide to the bookstores themselves!

Fortunately, Mexico is unbelievably rich in forms of cultural expression — many of which I can enjoy from my home! With that in mind, I thought I’d share some of my personal favorite Mexican books. Many of us are struggling right now: with the psychology of isolation, difficult finances, and anxiety over the coronavirus epidemic. For all that we lack, there remains an incredible bounty of cultural richness to explore.

Without further ado, here’s my guide to the books that will transport you through Mexico from the comfort of your armchair! This list is by no means exhaustive or definitive. It’s simply full of novels and nonfiction works that are especially close to my heart.

1) Caramelo, by Sandra Cisneros

This novel by Mexican-American author Sandra Cisneros is a wonderful introduction to Mexican culture and history. While perspectives and time periods shift around, it’s written largely from the perspective of a Chicago kid road-tripping south with their parents in order to visit family in Mexico City. It follows this story, along with the personal histories of various family members, introducing you to a remarkable expanse of Mexican life throughout time. Cisneros’ passage while the family crosses over from the U.S. into Mexico is one of my all-time favorites. It perfectly captures the sights, the sounds, the sensory experience of this crossing.

2) The Mexico City Reader

*© University of Wisconsin Press and © Kasper Christensen/Flickr, via The Culture Trip.*

This collection of writings about Mexico City was written at a darker time in history, in the ’90s when crime was rampant and the city hadn’t yet undergone its present-day beautification. Despite these discrepancies, the diverse works of The Mexico City Reader often get at essential qualities of the city. It’s a fun, lively read that will make you laugh and think more deeply about this marvelous place. Don’t skip the front matter, which includes an excellent introductory essay on the city’s development and modern life! (For a deeper dive into Mexico City’s urban history, check out I Speak of the City, by Mauricio Tenorio Trillo.)

3) Malinche, by Laura Esquivel

Many of you are already familiar with Mexican writer Laura Esquivel. If you spy some Mexican books on a U.S. bookshelf, it’s likely that she’s the author. Her bestselling romantic novel Like Water for Chocolate and its movie adaptation made her a household name.

I like Malinche even more, though! Esquivel was fascinated with Malinche, the indigenous woman who became conquistador Hernan Cortez’s translator and mistress. She’s a polarizing figure in Mexico, at once considered the Mother of the Mestizo (mixed) Race, and the first traitor of the Mexican people. Esquivel dives deep into Malinche’s reality in this fictionalized account, breathing new life and autonomy into this fascinating figure.

4) La Perdida, by Jessica Abel

A young Mexican-American woman moves to Mexico City in this intriguing graphic novel from Jessica Abel. Her art style is beautiful, capturing urban scenes precisely: markets, bars, city streets and parks, the canals of Xochimilco, the blooming spring jacarandas. The story is very dense, shifting between English and heavily slang-influenced Mexican Spanish. But its unfolding mystery is highly rewarding if you give this book the time it deserves.

5) Instrucciones para vivir en México (Instructions for Living in Mexico), by Jorge Ibarguengoitia*

If you’ve lived in Mexico for any length of time, this book will make you laugh out loud endlessly. Jorge Ibarguengoitia is widely beloved for his poignant, sarcastic, and often hilarious observations on Mexican life and politics. Instructions for Living in Mexico compiles hundreds of the short columns he wrote for Mexican newspapers in the 1970s.

Despite being nearly 50 years old, these pieces could have been written yesterday. Ibarguengoitia tears apart everything from Mexican bureaucracy to elections, etiquette to small town life. Many have already read Octavio Paz’s famous The Labyrinth of Solitude, which contains some similarities. But I love this book’s exacting observations and clever wit even more.

6) La fila india (The Indian Line), by Antonio Ortuño*

No novel captures modern Mexico with more unflinching power than Antonio Ortuño’s La fila india. In some ways it’s a shame that no one has translated this powerhouse book. Yet it’s one of those books that probably only works in Spanish, so unique is Ortuño’s use of language. The novel follows a human rights functionary in the Mexican government as she travels to the southern border with Guatemala. There, a horrific massacre of Central American migrants has taken place. The event is fictional, but it’s based on similar real-life killings in recent years.

La fila india takes a clear-eyed look at the ugliest parts of contemporary society: not only the inhumanity of the cartel and the immense suffering of the migrants who cross through Mexico, but also the hypocrisy, apathy, and veiled racism of the educated elite in Mexico City. Of all the Mexican books featured on this list, Ortuño’s masterpiece may have left the most unnerving impression on me.

7) The Power of the Dog, by Don Winslow

Another dark yet powerful story comes in this first novel from an action-packed trilogy. The Power of the Dog is the only book on this list from an author who’s neither Mexican nor Mexican-American. Rather, Don Winslow is a well-known American crime and noir writer. When he set his sights on the history of Mexican narco-trafficking, the result was this page-turner, which reads like Netflix’s Narcos: Mexico (but far preceded the series).

Media focus on this issue is often highly sensationalist and graphic. What I like about Winslow’s books is that they remain utterly gripping, yet this guy clearly did his research as well. Names have been changed, but many historical events are quite accurate. The U.S. government’s role in the violence and instability is made particularly clear. Even while focusing on the early days (1970s onward) of the drug war, Winslow extolls Mexico’s sophisticated culture and beautiful cities, not just violence. It’s not a perfect book. However, it’s an entertaining and well-written look at a challenging period in the country’s recent history. It’s the first in a page-turning trilogy, followed by The Cartel and The Border.

8) Hurricane Season, by Fernanda Melchor

The only reason Hurricane Season is listed last is because I haven’t gotten my hands on it yet! I’m including it, however, because Fernanda Melchor is one of Mexico’s most promising young writers. Her short story collection Aquí No es Miami (This Isn’t Miami) explores her native Veracruz, and its current crisis of crime and violence, with a clear voice and sense of irony. Now, Hurricane Season has come along: Melchor’s first book to be translated into English. And it’s already shortlisted for the Booker International Prize! The themes in her previous works are reflected here, on a more epic scale.

I hope this brief introduction to the wide world of Mexican books helps you get through the quarantine, coming out on the other side a little more knowledgable about the country and culture! And with muchas ganas (a strong desire) to visit and explore in-person ASAP. Stay tuned for guides to Mexican film, TV, art, and more in the near future!

*Note: The titles marked with an asterisk are only available in Spanish at this time, without subtitles/translations that I could find. Seek these out if you’re looking to brush up on your language skills during quarantine!

Weekend Travel Guide to Acapulco: Sunsets, Spectacular Views, and Staying Safe

In recent years, the sunny beach destination of Acapulco has gotten a bad rap. Google its name, and you’ll find news stories on gang wars and violence. That’s certainly the perception I had of Acapulco before living in Mexico.

Then I watched the Luis Miguel series on Netflix. (I’m only a little embarrassed to admit how much I enjoyed this entertaining, well-acted, and yes a bit soapy show on the life of Mexican pop star Luis Miguel.) The show takes place during the singer’s rise in the 1980s and ’90s, when he lived between Mexico City and Acapulco. But the city that Luis Miguel evokes wasn’t the one I’d encountered in those alarming headlines. This was Acapulco at its peak. Glittering lights curving along a spectacular bay, dramatic cliffs abutting verdant green mountains, and glamorous nightclubs overlooking gorgeous beaches.

The Two Narratives of Acapulco

So how to reconcile these two Acapulcos: the city of gleaming Pacific ocean views, and the one known for its crime and violence? After all, the resort town remains the number one destination for domestic tourism. Each year, hotel occupancy is near 100%, and dozens of major conferences, photoshoots, and festivals take place there. I spoke to many Mexican friends who visit frequently, staying at family condos every year. They assured me things were looking up in Acapulco — that tourism was far separated from the city’s criminal underbelly — and so, in fall 2019, I headed there for a long weekend with a friend. I had to see for myself.

What I found was a fascinating, utterly unexpected blend of past and present, wealth and shabbiness, natural beauty and urban development. The Acapulco of today still oozes charm, with layers of forgotten history existing alongside one another. The ghosts of Filipino and Chinese traders who brought spices and porcelain into port on hulking schooners, ’50s Hollywood stars who once tanned on its beaches, ’80s discotheques pulsating with jet-set nightlife, and the smugglers, from colonial pirates to modern capos, who’ve left their own troubled legacy. They all, somehow, coexist.

Despite this complicated history, I fell in love with Acapulco’s beauty, personality, and rich culture. Here, I’ll share some of my favorite experiences in the Pearl of the Pacific. I’ll also complement these with recommendations on how to have the safest, most enjoyable stay you can.

Watch the Acapulco Sunset over the Pacific

Since Acapulco is known as a highly developed, built-up resort town, nothing really prepares you for its rugged, dramatic coastline. There’s no doubt the city is overdeveloped, its rocky cliffs studded with hundreds of high rise hotels and condos. But in those areas that have been left mostly alone (mainly on the western side of the city, just uphill from Playa Langosta), you can drink in one of Mexico’s most utterly spectacular sunset views.

The walk along the sea from Playa Langosta up to La Quebrada is truly stunning.

Sinfonía del Mar

Take one of Acapulco’s famous VW Bug taxis to Sinfonía del Mar or Playa Langosta to begin your sunset walk. I preferred the slightly longer walk from Playa Langosta, because I got to enjoy the beginning of the sunset from more vantage points, and by the time the most dramatic view was revealed, it felt supremely satisfying. Sinfonía del Mar (Symphony of the Sea) is a lovely, open-air theater, its curved seats leading to a sun mosaic stage perched directly above the churning Pacific. When you’ve had your fill of views and snapshots there, continue walking up the sea-walk to La Quebrada (The Ravine).

La Quebrada

This remarkable spot is home Acapulco’s most beloved sunset view, a place where locals and visitors gather nightly. It’s essentially a craggy cliff that drops dramatically down to the sea, with steps and a winding path heading down towards the final lookout. At the top, pay a small fee (no more than 45 pesos I believe) to enter, then slowly make your way down.

My favorite view was at the top of the swirling path, where you can drink in the cliffs (so eye-catching that they look carved, sculpted into the rock), the sea, the beauty of the path itself, and the full scope of the sky. I would go here every night if I could, every sunset a wholly new phenomenon waiting to be discovered. (Since you can’t be there right now, check out the fantastic local photographer Allan Bañuelos @acawanderer for many of these spectacular views.) Acapulco is just another example of Mexico’s seemingly endless natural riches.

Let Acapulco’s Legendary Cliff Divers Take Your Breath Away

Once you’re at La Quebrada, there’s more in store for you than an unforgettable sunset. After the sun sinks down below the sea, the sky darkens, and the coast lights up with lanterns. Then, some skinny local kids will climb up onto the cliff on the opposing side of the gorge. But these are no ordinary adolescents… they’re the famous quebradistas of Acapulco, the cliff divers!

Once the Acapulco sky darkens, the *quebradistas* (cliff divers) perform their death-defying feats. They leap off the cliff on the right in this image, into the tiny gully of water below.

One by one, they’ll leap from different points on the 45-meter high cliff face into the water, outlined by jagged rocks that line the dark ravine. The quebradistas start lower down, gradually jumping from higher and higher spots until the final daredevil, who leaps down from the very top of the cliff. It’s exciting, anxiety-inducing, and breathtaking in the most literal sense. Not to be missed.

If you have time before the sunset and cliff-divers, head up to the Casa de los Vientos, the famed home of socialite and art collector Dolores Olmedo. She was the long-time patron of Mexican artist Diego Rivera, who created a beautiful mosaic for the house’s entryway. Today, the house is a cultural center you can visit Monday through Friday.

Delve Into Acapulco History at the Fuerte de San Diego

Acapulco is famous for its 20th century heyday, but this city has a much longer, genuinely compelling history that many visitors know little about. By far the best place to play catch up is the Fuerte de San Diego (San Diego Fort), an 18th century citadel that overlooks Acapulco Bay and the inland mountains from a lush hilltop.

Not only is the five-pointed *Fuerte de San Diego* full of interesting history — it’s just plain gorgeous.

I hopped on one of Acapulco’s colorful, spray-painted pesero buses to climb the hill, getting off at the fort’s entrance. Today, the Fuerte de San Diego is the Acapulco History Museum. The fort is in a five-point star formation made from thick, cool stone, providing a welcome respite from the city’s legendary heat and humidity. Each point of the pentagram holds exhibits on the port’s history, from its beginnings as a holding of the Aztec Empire (Acapulco most likely means “The Place in which Reeds Abound” in the Aztec language Nahuatl) to colonial port and beyond. Especially interesting is the exhibit on the “Nau Chino,” the trade corridor between Asia and Mexico, and its effects on both Asian and Mexican culture, food, art, and more. The room showing Acapulco’s storied heyday as a destination for American and Mexican movie stars is fun as well!

Views behind the fort feature Guerrero state’s rolling green mountains. Directly in front, meanwhile, lies the vast curvature of Acapulco Bay.

Get a Taste of Old Hollywood at Hotel Los Flamingos

Speaking of classic movie stars jet-setting to Acapulco Bay, no discussion would be complete without mentioning Hotel Los Flamingos. I’m a big fan of everything Old Hollywood, and this was always one of Acapulco’s main attractions for me. Glamorous photographs of Marilyn on the beach, the Kennedy’s on honeymoon, Frank Sinatra in a nightclub crooning:

“Come fly with me, come fly, let’s fly away; Just say the word and we’ll beat the birds down to Acapulco Bay…”

Hotel Los Flamingos has one of the best sunsets in Acapulco, with a sprinkling of classic Hollywood flair.

There aren’t many places left where you can get a sense of Old Acapulco, the city that movie stars of the Golden Age once roamed. Most of that city is covered with modern condos and resorts, shiny new bars and nightclubs. But at Hotel Los Flamingos, time stands still.

History and Glamour at Los Flamingos

When the Hollywood star Johnny Weissmuller (best known for his role as Tarzan) first came to midcentury Acapulco, he fell in love. Soon after, he decided to build his own hotel in the coastal paradise. And so he did: Hotel Los Flamingos, a bright pink, modern joint perched precariously on splendid cliffs facing the ocean. In its heyday, the hotel was luxurious and swank: Cary Grant, Orson Welles, and John Wayne hanging out in the pool with their good friend Johnny. These days, Hotel Los Flamingos has been frozen in time.

For a more upscale take on Old Hollywood style in Acapulco, check out the famed Hotel Boca Chica. Photo courtesy of Design Hotels Group.

The era of glamour and Hollywood stars has come and gone for this slightly care-worn spot, but so have the sky-high prices. Now you can spend $60-$70 USD a night for a comfy bed, or $15 for a meal, and watch one of Acapulco’s most stunning sunsets while sipping one of the hotel’s famous Cocos Locos. It really is an Old Hollywood time warp, tucked away in a quiet corner of this lively city.

If you have time, check out Hotel Boca Chica for a more subdued, minimalist take on classic Acapulco style. Boca Chica is a fancier (and definitely pricier) Midcentury Modern hotel featured in many photo shoots, perfect if you’re looking for an upscale retro experience.

Indulge in Local Acapulqueño Cuisine

Seafood

Most people I asked about food in Acapulco told me, “Meh.” And it’s true, the food at fancy hotels and restaurants honestly didn’t impress me much. But there is good food in Acapulco, just not necessarily at these tourist traps! As you’re staring out into the Pacific Ocean, I’m sure seafood will be on your mind. My favorite spot was Buzo’s, a classic restaurant right in front of the beach on the main bay. The caldo de camarón (spicy shrimp stew) was the best I’ve ever had! The molcajete de mariscos was a steaming, flavorful array of seafood, from fresh octopus to fish. But really, almost anything here will be delicious.

Pozole Verde

Another local specialty might not sound as appetizing in such a hot, muggy climate: pozole verde, a thick stew made with pork and hominy. If you can find a good air-conditioned spot and cool down, it’s well worth it! Head to a local restaurant on a Thursday to enjoy a bowl.

Dance a Traditional Danzón with Acapulco Locals in the Zócalo

Walking along the costera — the sea drive that twists and turns along Acapulco’s bays — a typical bus passed by, spray painted with Snoopy or The Simpsons or who knows. (They’re all like this, and all unique!). “Hop on, güera! We’re headed to the Zócalo!”

From the *costera* seaside road, hop on a colorful bus to get to the *zócalo*, the Pacific-facing side, and beyond.

I didn’t take this cheery driver up on his offer. Later, though, I trekked through the humidity myself, huffing and puffing up the coast to the zócalo, Acapulco’s main plaza. In many Mexican towns and cities, this main square is the literal town center. Here, however, it’s just off the ocean. Other than that, it contains all the charms of every Mexican zócalo, with a particular Acapulqueño flair. Young couples flirt, families take a paseo (stroll) with ice cream, and music is always playing somewhere. On my Friday evening visit, I lucked out and wandered into the weekly Danzón party. A large group of locals was enjoying this traditional, waltz-like dance style. I suddenly understood why the older woman I’d seen on a bus earlier had been so beautiful dressed, in head-to-toe white with high heels. Here she was at the Zócalo, swirling away!

Tips to Maximize Your Time and Stay Safe While in Acapulco:

1. Be conscious of your belongings:

I never felt unsafe while in Acapulco. That said, take the normal precautions you would in any large city where theft occurs. Don’t bring valuables around with you. (I chose not to take my camera, and instead made do with phone photos for this visit.) Don’t leave your beach bag with phone, cash, cards, etc. unattended, instead bringing only the essentials if you’re going for a swim.

Acapulco is full of hidden corners and enchantment, yours to discover. That doesn’t mean, however, you should throw caution to the wind.

2. Think carefully before going out to nightclubs:

I’m not much of a partier or nightclub-goer. When I went to Acapulco, I was more interested in relaxation than going out. That said, the city is well known for its nightlife, and you may be tempted to go out while you’re here. There are many high-end clubs, and most likely you’ll have no problem — crime targeting tourists is very uncommon in Acapulco. However, when tourists have been caught in the crossfire of narcotrafficking-related conflict, it’s been at nightclubs. This is because wealthy traffickers can target each other at this type of establishment. So to be abundantly cautious, I don’t recommend going to clubs here. Pick up wine, beer, liquor, whatever you’d like at the many supermarkets on the costera. Then enjoy them by the ocean, pool, or hot tub!

3. Stay in Acapulco Dorado in AirBnB for a low-budget trip

If you don’t plan on renting a car, I highly recommend getting an AirBnb apartment along the costera road, officially called Miguel Alemán. This will ensure that you can walk to most major spots: the beach, the supermarket, secure taxi stops (paradas), and an assortment of restaurants.

4. Visit during the off-season

If you head to Acapulco during semana santa (Easter week), or Mexican summer and winter school vacations, the beaches will be packed. It’s really no fun to go during these times! But wait until fall, and you can spend a much quieter, more enjoyable vacation on empty beaches. From around September to November, you’ll have Acapulco largely to yourself.

5. Get a resort day pass for a taste of Acapulco luxury

For an especially relaxing day, enjoy the facilities at a luxury resort with an inexpensive day pass.

If you’re jonesing for a taste of the good life, there are plenty of fabulous resorts around Acapulco. Rather than paying through your teeth for a room, hop in a cab and enjoy a day there! We spent a very tranquil day in the Princess resort, taking full advantage of the buffet, quiet beach, and pool. For around $25 USD, we got a full day there, with a large credit to get food at the hotel. The taxi from downtown Acapulco to the resort area isn’t cheap (not by my peso-salaried standards, anyway). It cost around $300 pesos, or $15 USD at the time, in each direction. But if you need that luxurious experience, it will still be pennies compared to even a one night stay at the resort.

5. Bring cash for taxis and street vendors

Finally, don’t count on using your Uber or Didi app while in Acapulco. Ride-sharing is banned, and the seemingly endless number of taxistas in their blue and white VW vochos reign supreme. These taxis aren’t cheap, either. Plan on bringing several hundred pesos, depending on how far you plan on going. Be sure to haggle and establish a price before getting in. And if you find a great taxi driver, don’t be shy about asking for his card, especially if you want to go farther along the coast on future days.

Bring some extra cash in case a restaurant doesn’t accept card (always a good rule of thumb in Mexico), and to support local vendors. There are some really nice, non-pushy folks on the beach who sell everything from mango to coconuts to fresh oysters.

Final Reflection

Everywhere I went in Acapulco, I was the only foreigner. Even as Acapulco has remained a wildly popular domestic tourism destination, negative press and alarming headlines have scared away the spring breakers (hey, I’m not complaining). While I certainly felt very visible as the only gringa around, locals were consistently kind, warm, and welcoming. Frankly, many folks seemed happy, and maybe a little surprised, to see a foreign visitor — at least outside of the resorts. I came for Acapulco’s renowned coastline and storied sunsets. I stayed for the city’s lively personality, friendly spirit, and sense of fun.

Beyond the Zócalo: What (Else) to Do in Mexico City’s Historic Center

Many visitors to Mexico City head straight to the Zócalo, in the historic center — the metropolis’s most famous plaza since Aztec times. While they may be impressed by its monumental scale and fascinating history, they probably also feel overwhelmed.

Without a doubt, the Zócalo is an amazing place. But both this huge main square and the historic center that surrounds it can be crowded and confusing, especially if you don’t know where to go. Without insider info, many leave feeling the area is chaotic and stressful. Yet I’ve guided many visitors through the historic center happily!

The Zócalo is undoubtedly a must-see in Mexico City’s historic center. Yet there’s so much more to experience!

I absolutely love the historic center of Mexico City. Pulsating with life, color, and history, it’s the true heart of the mega-city. The Aztecs once paddled canoes through canals here — now paved streets. Spanish conquistadors, kings, emperors, populists, and paupers roamed alongside Chinese immigrants, French invaders, and American imperialists of past centuries. Once you know where and when to go, I’m certain that you’ll fall in love with the area too. Without further ado, I’d like to share my guide to the historic center’s most magical spots, far beyond just the Zócalo. The neighborhood is full of incredible spots few tourists ever get to see!

Have an Old-School Breakfast at El Cardenal

The historic center of Mexico City isn’t just an area for tourists. The neighborhood is still home to long-time residents, offices, and lots and lots of government buildings, from federal departments to the capital’s congress. This means lots and lots of politicians and officials! And where do they all do business in the morning? El Cardenal, a fantastic, old school downtown restaurant.

El Cardenal is one of the historic center’s most iconic restaurants, and for good reason. Photo courtesy of Restaurante El Cardenal.

Regular folks come here too, of course. But El Cardenal has a special vibe, with its classic interior always filled with politicians having hours-long breakfast meetings, “ladies who lunch” gossiping as they feast on Mexican sweet breads, and businesspeople engaged in intense discussion over a café de olla. On top of all that, El Cardenal has one of the best breakfasts in Mexico City. Treat yourself to fabulous eggs and one of their famous conchas (a sweet breakfast roll), or come a little later to lunch on mole with chicken.

Travel Back in Time at the Plaza de Santo Domingo

Just a few blocks away lies the Plaza de Santo Domingo, one of Mexico’s oldest and most atmospheric public squares. Few tourists spend much time here, if at all. But it’s well worth dedicating an hour or two to explore the plaza’s cultural treasures! For me, Santo Domingo represents the heart of the historic center of Mexico City.

The Plaza de Santo Domingo has retained its traditional air since colonial times. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Here, time seems to stand still. Centuries-old church and monastery buildings line the square, while tamale and elote vendors hawk their wares. Before these Spanish edifices were built, this very square was home to the Aztec emperor Cuauhtémoc. Under the portales, the covered stone arches that line one side of the plaza, sits a row of lovely wooden booths, each adorned with its own hand-painted sign. These are little open-air stationary shops, selling cards and decorative papers.

But hints remain of their original purpose; many of the stands have a little desk with an old typewriter perched on it. Since colonial times, the Plaza de Santo Domingo was home to scribes who would write letters and contracts for the population, mostly illiterate then. This practice slowly evolved into these charming stands, where you can still get a document drawn up if need be. It’s truly a slice of Mexico City’s past that remains relevant today.

Admire Stunning Murals by Some of Mexico’s Greatest 20th Century Artists

Palacio Nacional

Many visitors to the historic center head straight to the Palacio Nacional (National Palace), right by the Zócalo. There, you can admire a gorgeous mural by Diego Rivera, spread across an entire staircase and depicting Mexican history from the Conquest to the Revolution. And it’s free! That said, however, the staircase seems to be closed off at the moment, making it hard to see the mural’s details.

Fortunately, the Palacio Nacional is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the historic center’s murals. After the Mexican Revolution, the newly progressive government invited many artists to cover public buildings in their art. The results are spectacular: one of my favorite things about Mexico City! All this gorgeous art, free and open to the public.

Secretary of Public Education

The best of these projects is in the Secretary of Public Education, right on the Plaza de Santo Domingo. Once a colonial monastery, this became HQ for Mexican education policy in the 1920s — and officials asked Diego Rivera to adorn the building with his murals. The effect is breathtaking. The elegant archways and stone walls of this ancient building are covered in murals, rising up three floors and stretching around a garden courtyard. Rivera’s murals cover Mexican traditions and artisanry on the lower level, while the third floor shows the country’s revolution. Look for “The Orgy”, a very entertaining mural depicting the lifestyle of the wealthy in Mexico City’s Roaring Twenties, and the final mural near the staircase, which depicts revolutionary communist workers and sneaks in Frida Kahlo!

Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso

Another lovely example of these public murals is the Antiguo Colegio de San Idelfonso, a historic center museum. The Colegio is another beautiful colonial building, which was once a school (consequently, its name, “The Old Academy of Saint Idelfonso”). Today, it features rotating exhibitions, but the star of the show is the architecture itself, bedecked with wonderful murals by the “Three Greats” of the 20th Century: Diego Rivera, David Alfonso Siquieros, and José Clemente Orozco. It’s open until 7 p.m., so it’s a great last stop of the day. They light the murals up once it starts getting dark, making the Colegio even more atmospheric!

In short, the Antiguo Colegio is a great place to familiarize yourself with the work of all three famed artists, the Secretary of Public Education is perfect for a deep dive into history amongst exquisite surroundings, and the Palacio Nacional for a quicker peek into both art and history. Make sure to bring an ID for officials at these buildings’ entrances.

Get a Taste for the Gourmet and the Strange at the Mercado de San Juan

There are many markets in the historic center, and it can be overwhelming to choose between them, or even know where to go. Since Aztec times, people from throughout Mesoamerica flocked here to sell their wares, trading valuable cacao and shells for obsidian, quetzal feathers, and precious metals. In the 2020s, this practice continues with tianguis (temporary markets) that pop up around the city, and lively neighborhood markets.

Of the many historic center markets, the Mercado de San Juan is perhaps the most unique. That is to say: you’ll probably never go to another market quite like this one. Mercado de San Juan is Mexico City’s go-to spot for exotic ingredients, frequented by top chefs and adventurous home cooks alike. Here, you’ll find fruits from Asia and South America alongside delectable insects, strange meats, and friendly, knowledgable vendors. Likewise, some vendors will cook you dishes that are just as unique. It’s a literal taste of Mexico City’s diverse heritage and modern cosmopolitanism.

Enjoy a Romantic Dinner By Candlelight at Azúl

Azul is undoubtedly one of the city’s most atmospheric, romantic restaurants.

As you’re winding down your day in the historic center, it can be tough to decide where to eat. This area has everything, from hole-in-the-wall taquerías (here’s a list) to contemporary fine dining (Limosneros). For me, however, nowhere compares to the ambience and sheer mexicanidad of Azul Histórico. Set within the courtyard of yet another colonial building, this restaurant is unbelievably beautiful.

Trees grow through the floor and rise up several stories, bedecked with glowing candles that create a magical atmosphere. The menu is a veritable tour of regional Mexican cuisine, with excellent seasonal specialties, domestic wines, and desserts. During your meal, I urge you to order the Tortilla Soup. Don’t ask why…you won’t regret it. (One final note: I do recommend calling and making a reservation. If you don’t, they’ll probably tell you the wait is an hour. I’ve never waited that long though! Sit it out, and within 30 minutes I bet you’ll have a table.)

Tips for Visiting the Historic Center of Mexico City:

Go During the Work Week: If at all possible, visit the historic center from Tuesday through Friday. During the weekends, it gets packed with locals shopping and enjoying the area — I mean really packed. I never take people here on the weekend, especially Sunday! And on Mondays, it’s tranquil, but all the museums are closed, including the Templo Mayor in the Zócalo. It’s nice during the rest of the week — I recommend going around 10-11 a.m., so you avoid the city’s morning rush hour.

Go to the historic center on a weekday, and find (relative) peace and tranquility.

Be a Bit Careful With Your Belongings: The center isn’t a “dangerous” area of Mexico City, but due to its high numbers of tourists and bustling feel, it has the highest rates of pickpocketing in the city. I’ve never had any issue, but I watch my things carefully. Keep them in a zipped bag in front of you, and just watch out if you’re taking snapshots.

Appreciate the Layers of History: Alas, our time in the historic center has come to a close. There are so many more places I’d like to share with you…sigh, I’ll save them for future posts. Mexico City’s historic center is, above all, a place of contrasts: modern big box stores inside colonial edifices, the hustle and bustle of a 21st century megacity amidst the ruins and palaces of past empires. The Pino Suárez metro station, for instance, reflects contemporary chaos, yet holds an Aztec pyramid within its depths. Layers upon layers of history collide here, and the more time you spend in this captivating neighborhood, the more you’ll discover.

A Guide to Mexico City Public Transportation: Trains, Buses, and Beyond

When you think of Mexico City — even if you’ve never been here — one thing probably comes to mind: traffic. I can’t argue with the assessment that the city’s traffic is crazy; I’ve been stuck in it for frustrating hours. But what many people don’t tell you? You don’t have to drive everywhere! This isn’t a sprawling, suburban American city, where nearly everyone is expected to own a car. While cars are certainly status symbols in Mexico (just like in the U.S.), many people don’t have them, meaning diverse transport options have sprung up in this void.

While Mexico City public transportation is far from perfect, I use it pretty happily every single day. It’s fantastic value, and many Chilangos take public transportation to get where they’re going faster and avoid the city’s infamous traffic jams. That said, the system is complex, making transport intimidating to city newcomers. In this guide, I’ll take you through public transportation options in Mexico City, sharing my tips on navigation and safety as well.

General Tips and Advice

Navigating:

Visiting a friend in London this summer, I was introduced to Citymapper, an incredibly detailed and comprehensive app to get around the city’s transportation network. When I returned home to Mexico City, I opened the app and discovered that it worked here — and in many other global cities!

Citymapper really is a game changer. Use it like Google Maps or Waze, inputting where you want to go. But instead of giving you a few limited options or encouraging you to drive, the app will show you… Every. Possible. Route. Wanna take only peseros, the mini-buses that wildly zip around the city, for some reason? You can. Want to take the metro, even if it means walking longer? Do it. The app uncannily knows everything about this crazy city’s transport, even the approximate times and stops for informal transit choices. After you choose your route, Citymapper will walk you through the entire process. It tells you the best part of the train to board, which exit to take at the stations, and exactly what everything costs. They’re not paying me — I just really love Citymapper.

A final note on navigation: no app is perfect, nor is cell reception and data endless. When in doubt, ask a mom or a student nearby for help on navigation. People are generally very nice, and it’s better to swallow your pride than to get lost in the mega-city!

Photo courtesy of Ricardo Esquivel from Pexels.

Safety:

I feel generally quite safe on the Metro and Metrobus, but everything is a question of location. The Mexico City subway has 195 stations spread out all over, from very posh, well-heeled neighborhoods to quite dangerous areas. Ask a local friend or colleague before heading to a new part of the city, whatever type of transportation you’re using.

Even in safer areas, the subway and Metrobus aren’t without their safety problems. Mostly, this means pickpocketing and petty theft. Busy commuter stations like Tacubaya, Pino Suarez, and Balderas are targets for pickpockets during the busy work week. Meanwhile, the start and endpoints of several subway lines, including the Pantitlan and Indios Verdes stations, can be crazy during rush hour, an many people who live in Mexico State/the suburbs pass through these stations to get to work.

None of this is intended to scare you! I have had no safety issue or robbery on public transit. Instead, I just want you to be cautious. Avoid these stations at rush hour (7:30-9 AM, 5-7:30 PM on weekdays) if possible. Always keep your belongings in a closed bag or backpack, held in front of you — not in your pockets. Just stay aware, not completely zoned out, speaking loudly in English, or on the phone, and it’s unlikely you’ll encounter an issue.

Being a Woman on Public Transport

Several forms of Mexico City public transportation have women’s sections. This image and cover photo courtesy of Wikimedia.

Sexual harassment is an issue on Mexico City public transportation, like in most of the world. Nearly all of this harassment is focused on women. The Metro has a pink section designated only for women, children, older people, and people with disabilities. While I wish it wasn’t necessary, I love this section and think other cities/countries should copy the idea. I use this section, which is also on the Metrobus, exclusively, and highly recommend it if you identify as a woman.

On other forms of Mexico City public transportation, frankly I don’t feel as comfortable. Men sometimes cede their seats to women — take it, if it’s offered to you. Otherwise, standing on buses can be uncomfortable, as you’re very close to others and at times, there are creepy men. Particularly as a foreign woman, sometimes I feel very conspicuous. My method is to avoid taking crowded buses whenever possible: I walk, bike, Metro, and Metrobus instead.

After 9 PM, I usually don’t take any form of public transport, except the Metro/Metrobus in areas I know and trust. Sometimes it’s worth it to just take an Uber — once again, perhaps especially if you’re a woman. In general, many locals feel that the Metro and Metrobus are safer than buses or peseros. Still, as in any big city, you’ll probably feel safer in public transit in areas like Polanco and San Angel, than in Iztapalapa or Ciudad Neza, reflecting the vast security differences and inequities of Mexico City.

The Metro

Now, I’ll give you brief overviews and tips for different forms of transportation in Mexico City. I ordered these transport options basically from what I take and like the most (Metro) to the least (small, crowded buses).

This year marks the 50th Anniversary of the Mexico City Metro, and honestly, I love it. I argue with people all the time, because I think it’s better than the subways of New York and London. It’s generally quite fast, and while it does get crowded at rush hour, most people are respectful. I don’t have to board at a super busy, end-of-line station, where it’s so packed all this flies out the window, so I’m sure that would affect my feelings.

The system is fairly extensive and well-designed. Different colors signal different lines, and cool icons symbolize each station, which are named after everything from revolutionary heroes to Prehispanic markets. I often find that when there’s traffic, it’s faster than any other form of transportation I might take.

You need a plastic card to ride, which you can buy at many Metro stations and all Metrobus stations for five pesos, and recharge up to 99 pesos at a time. At five pesos per ride (around one quarter), the system is amazing value.

Metrobus

The newer Metrobus system runs along a few long routes that aren’t covered by the Metro, going up to the border with Mexico State and, most usefully in my opinion, all the way down Insurgentes Avenue. These shiny red buses run up and down major avenues in their own lane, meaning you can avoid the traffic. However, the buses are still, well, buses. They’re not high speed underground trains. They drive at a moderate pace, and have to wait at every stoplight — rather than putting the buses on freeways, they placed them on avenues with plenty of stops.

To access the Metrobus, you use the same card as the Metro (sold at machines at many Metrobus stations). The stops are raised, glass door thingies perched in the middle of major streets. Wait for the light, and carefully cross to enter the station and swipe your card. The Metrobus is considered quite safe, and has a women’s section just like the Metro. The buses have their destination on the front: make sure it’s the same destination listed in Citymapper or Google Maps, or the bus could stop short of your final station.

For fun, take the double decker Metrobus on Reforma Avenue, and enjoy fabulous views of many iconic Mexico City sights. You’ll pass Chapultepec Forest, the Angel of Independence, and many skyscrapers, all for six pesos. I don’t love the Metrobus, as it can be a little slow, but it works in a pinch! the bus costs six pesos per ride.

Bike Rentals

Like New York, LA, and probably every major world city at this point, Mexico City has exploded with bike rentals. The most popular service is called Ecobici, run by the city itself to promote health and green forms of transit. The bikes are sturdy, and you’ll find them at stations all over the city. You can register for the excellent, cheap service online here or at Oaxaca #7 in the Colonia Roma.

Plenty of other international start-ups have gotten in the game, with free-standing bikes you can leave wherever. Mobikes are orange, while Jumps are red (and run by Uber). You’ll find them scattered around hipster neighborhoods mostly, and they have their respective apps. I like Mobike and sometimes use it, but their range is smaller than Ecobici, and none of these start-ups can beat the great value of Ecobici either! You can get an annual pass for just over $20 USD.

You’ll notice I’m not including scooters in this section, or anywhere in this article. Several friends have had accidents on them in Mexico City. Biking can already be risky — please wear a helmet, and watch out for cars that don’t always respect the bike lanes. Always bike on the correct side of the street, and be aware that bicyclists going the wrong way, pedestrians, and even cars will most likely obstruct your path at some point. Electric scooters are even riskier here, because they’re faster and harder to operate, making quick maneuvers or stops difficult in the case of crazy drivers in cars. A final note on bikes: try not to leave bikes in the middle of the sidewalk. Mexico City neighbors don’t like it, and I get it — it’s annoying to walk around them, and just imagine pushing a stroller or wheelchair!

Buses

Mexico City has an incredibly extensive system of buses, mostly purple and green. I once drove three hours — there was some traffic, but still — to the far reaches of the “city,” through countryside and tiny villages. When I got there, I found the same green buses I see in my own central neighborhood. Along with this diversity comes a wide range of quality.

Technically, the Metro card should eventually work for many buses — don’t count on this. The main bus system is called RTP. To take the bus, you should have exact change; the driver won’t make change with you. Most buses cost four to seven pesos, with the cheap “locals” costing only two, but making a ton of stops. I used to take a purple bus every day when I worked in Lomas de Chapultepec, a wealthy area with no Metro stop, Metrobus, or bike rentals. It was a fine experience: just line up, and during peak hours, plenty of buses will pass by.

All buses list their final destinations, along with major landmarks/spots along their route, on the front window. When in doubt, ask the driver if he goes as far as your final destination, as some stop short.

Finally, you’ll see quite a few electric buses attached to lines above them, which are a wonderful addition in a smoggy city with too many old, exhaust-spewing vehicles. These are part of the Trolebús system. Some, like the blue ones on Felix Cuevas Avenue, are brand-new and really nice, running frequently so they’re not too crowded. Others, like the M1 near downtown and Tlatelolco, are green, snail-slow, and very crowded. As with other options of Mexico City public transportation, buses vary greatly, and it’ll be a process of deciding which you like and which you don’t.

Peseros and Combis

A classic Mexico City *pesero.* Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Peseros, rickety-looking green buses around 15 feet long, and combis, privately-driven vans, are the most informal transportation options in Mexico City. Despite this, they do run along set routes, and peseros even show up in Citymapper. I don’t love peseros: they are very inexpensive, but that also means they’re an easy target for robbery.

A combi in Taxco, Guerrero, a town famous for its VW Bug taxis as well. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia.

I actually like combis occasionally: they’re often faster than buses, more nimble in traffic, and while they can get very crowded, if you see a fairly empty one, nab a seat much comfier than that of a bus. On the other hand, due to the informal nature of these options, they aren’t considered especially safe or secure. The driving can also be a little nuts — thrilling or anxiety-inducing, depending on your personality. In a pinch, combis aren’t a bad option to get around in areas with few transport choices. They usually cost around five to ten pesos.

Localized Options: The Train Ligero, Tren Suburbano, and Teleférico

To wrap up, there are several forms of Mexico City public transportation that only exist in certain areas. Regardless, you never know when you’ll find yourself in Xochimilco or needing to go to Mexico State, for example, and you’ll need this information!

Tren Ligero

The tren ligero (light rail) is essentially an extension of the Metro system, helping make the connection to the south of the city. From the Tasqueña blue line Metro station, this diminutive light rail reaches down to Xochimilco, the canals and islands that form one of Mexico’s UNESCO sites and a popular tourist destination. These aboveground trains are small and slower than the Metro, taking around 30-40 minutes to reach the last stop. Currently, the first half of the system is closed under renovation — so don’t trust your Google Maps or Citymapper, which seem to ignore this. Overall, it’s a tranquil, safe little train, and at only three pesos per ride, it’s quite inexpensive.

Tren Suburbano

The tren suburbano (suburban train) connects Mexico City to its northern ‘burbs in a similar fashion. It begins at Buenavista station (get out of the metro station and hop right across to the suburban train), a teeming center just north of downtown that includes shopping, restaurants, and an ice rink beyond the train platforms. (While you’re there, pop in to the famous Vasconcelos Library, right around the corner.) Buenavista is the only place in Mexico City that reminds me of a “real” train station, like those found in Europe and Asia. You need a different plastic card for this train, which you can buy at ticket counters. Each ride costs up to 19 pesos, quite steep for Mexican transit, but good value at about $1 USD for the distance.

One of the suburban train’s current taglines is “It changed my life,” and truly, this isn’t far off. If you live in Mexico State and work in the city, as tens of thousands do, this was a game-changer. The train can fill up, but it’s fast and clean — before this, imagine taking several buses or combis into the city, trapped in terrible traffic. What was once a multi-hour journey, many of my friends now undertake in 30-60 minutes. You can take the train all the way up to Cuatitlán in Mexico State.

Teleférico

After that comes the final form of public transportation: the teleférico (cable car). If you head out to Teotihuacan, the famous pyramids north of Mexico City, you’ll briefly pass under the swinging cable cars, which cross above the highway in Mexico State. There’s only one route, called “Mexicable.” To be honest, it’s not likely that you’ll use the Mexicable. It’s located in Ecatepec, quite a dangerous municipality outside of Mexico City. The cable cars themselves are a nice, safe, modern system, and provide an important service for many locals. When you pass the teleférico, look at the small houses rising up into the hills, and imagine getting between them without a car, or stuck in traffic in a crowded bus. Taking a creative approach, the developers helped paint murals on many buildings along the route, making for a more scenic ride — not a bad deal for six pesos.

While you probably won’t use this cable car, Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum has proposed plans to build four more teleféricos in the city itself! If she follows through on the promise, we could be gliding in cable cars above boroughs like Álvaro Obregón, Gustavo A. Madero, Tlalpan, and Iztapalapa. I’m especially excited about a proposal that would potentially connect the first two sections of Chapultepec Park, which are a headache to get between now.

From the Metro to the Metrobus, cable cars to combis, Mexico City public transportation is slowly moving forward. It still has a long way to go, but in my opinion, it already surpasses most American cities in affordable transport options for the carless (such as myself). With lots of variation within the systems, it takes time to get confident with all of them and explore the city!

Welcome to Chilangolandia: Mexico City Slang Guide (Part 1)

To me, nothing reflects the vivacity and color of daily life in Mexico City more than language. Locals have invented countless slang words over the course of the city’s long history. Some of them date back to Aztec times, while others are hilarious Mexican-izations of American phrases. All of these words reveal the creativity, cultural blending, and constant changes that drive this city.

Here, I’ve compiled a list of my favorite “chilangüismos”: slang words used mostly in Mexico City, though some phrases are used in other parts of Mexico.* I hope they help you communicate, relate to locals, and give you insight into the city’s unique culture! There are simply too many phrases for one post, so I’ll explore this topic more in the future!

Chilango:

If you’re going to learn one bit of Mexico City slang, let it be the word “Chilango.” This refers to Mexico City residents themselves, whether they were born here or not. Locals often dispute its origin, possibly linking it back to the Nahuatl (language of the Aztecs and many other Central Mexican peoples) word “chilan-co,” which once referred to people from Central Mexico. The phrase became popular in other states around Mexico, where, ahem, Mexico City residents aren’t always beloved. Folks say “Haz patria y mata a un chilango”: literally “be patriotic and kill a chilango,” but more an insult than a real threat. Chilangos took the insult in stride, and reclaimed it as a word of pride. These days, the city’s magazine is called Chilango, and is a great resource for local information.

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Defeño:

Many Mexico City residents, whether they were born here or not, consider themselves chilangos. Defeños, on the other hand, are a more rarified group — they were born in Mexico City, and some view chilangos as outsiders or interlopers. The term comes from D.F., Distrito Federal (Federal District), which is what Mexico City used to be called. This designation, similar to Washington D.C., came with issues of representation, and so a few years they officially transformed Mexico City into its own state. The Federal District is no more.

De provincia:

This is one of the snootiest Mexico City slang phrases out there. “De provincia,” literally “provincial” is almost always used in a derogatory way to imply that people from outside the capital are less sophisticated simpletons or rubes. Not one of my favorite local phrases, but an important one to understand attitudes that some in the city do have.

Edomex:

This is the last term I’ll discuss that deals with location and residency. “Edomex” simply shortens “Estado de México,” Mexico State. This is the state that surrounds Mexico City, and makes up the Metro Area of the huge capital, over doubling its size.

“When someone lives in Mexico State…and thinks they’re a defeño.” Note: Mexico City folks love to hate on Mexico State! I don’t endorse this view (or this meme) myself.

Colonia:

In much of Latin America, and even Latino areas in the U.S., you’ll hear “barrio” all the time to refer to “neighborhood.” Here in Mexico City, the city is split up into huge delegaciones, or districts, and each district has dozens of colonias, or neighborhoods. The other common word you’ll hear for neighborhood is zona, which is more general.

Qué padre:

When you think of Mexico City slang, you most likely think of “Qué padre,” one of Mexico’s most famous phrases. Literally meaning “How daddy,” locals use this to say things are cool or awesome. For example, if a local Chilango shows you their favorite taco stand or city sight, say “Qué padre!” to express your admiration.

“Ohhhh…cool.” Like the way John Oliver says “cool.” The phrase can be used sincerely, or very, very sarcastically.

Guëy:

“Güey” is probably the second most well-known phrase for foreigners in the Mexican lexicon, with “Ay güey!” as its stereotypical use. Güey basically works just like “dude” or “man” in the U.S. — you use it with friends, tacking it onto phrases like “What’s up, man?” The word came from “buey,” meaning ox or bull, to refer insultingly to men, but now it’s lost that meaning. In the internet age, lots of people spell it “wey,” too.

“When you’re Mexican, and you’ve gone five minutes without saying güey/wey.”

Chavo:

“Chavo” is similar to güey, used as a catch-all, casual term for a person, usually young. You would describe that “chavo” who was creepy to you on the subway, or a couple of “chavas” you’re going to hang out with after work. Some linguists think the term, used in different spots in Latin America, came from the gypsy word “chaval,” which meant boy.

No mames:

If you’ve watched a lot of Mexican movies or TV, from the classic “Y Tu Mamá También” to new hit “Narcos México,” you’ve probably heard characters groan “No mames, güey” to complain. In unpleasant or awful situations, Mexicans often turn to this phrase to say “You’re kidding me”… albeit in a more vulgar way. “No mames” is like the “Screw this” of Mexico, but literally, it refers to, ahem, sucking — either related to a baby breastfeeding, or oral sex. Literally, it doesn’t make a ton of sense. Anyways, because of the graphic nature of the phrase, the Televisa TV network started using “No manches,” basically a more polite way to express dissatisfaction.

Are there a lot of Chihuahua memes in Mexico? I’ve got to be honest…yes, yes there are.

La neta:

“La neta” is one of the most common phrases I hear every day in Mexico City. It means “the truth,” but people use it as “honestly” or “on the DL” too, to represent the Absolute Truth. So you’d say “La neta, no me cae bien”: “To be completely honest, I just don’t like him.” You can also use it as a question, as in “¿Es neta?”: “Seriously/Really?” Young Chilangos love the word, and it most likely comes from the French word “net,” which means “clear/pure.”

Godín:

No one wants to be a Godín, but most of us are. This word basically means a white collar office worker, what Americans used to call a pencil-pusher, and the Japanese call a Salaryman. A Godín has a boring but stable office job, commutes on crowded public transport, and brings a “tupper” (tupperware) with their lunch every day. It’s impossible to track a precise origin of the term, though some say it came from jokes on the popular “El Chavo del 8” comedy show years ago. Regardless, the Godinez (the plural of Godín) are here to stay. As much as we make fun of them, we also identify with them…they’re a reflection of modern city life and Mexican workaholism. So much so, that even Pepsi made a popular ad laughing knowingly at the Godín lifestyle.

Al chile:

“Al chile” is a somewhat lewder way to say “la neta,” as in “the truth” or “really?” While technically it refers to the chili pepper, it really has a more phallic connotation…no, I can’t really explain why. Sometimes it’s better to just accept Mexico City slang. Don’t question it. Amusingly, people wanting to be polite will say “al children” as a weird, nonsensical substitute.

“Ok girl, tell me the truth: how do my brows look?”

Chafa:

Chafa means cheap or shoddy, and it’s use all the time in Mexico City. That presentation was chafa, your disappointed professor might say. That girl looks so chafa. That store was super chafa. It has endless uses — there’s plenty of chafa stuff in this giant, crazy city, after all.

When Julie buys a new purse…and it’s cheap af.

Cabrón:

This word is used all over Mexico…but that doesn’t mean you should use it lightly. It is the Mexican equivalent of asshole, as in jerk or idiot. But unlike those English words, friends also use it amongst themselves, as a fake-insulting term of endearment just like “güey.” Cabrón comes from cabra, meaning goat. Be careful using it, as it will be taken as an insult by strangers.

Chido:

If you listen to a conversation between young people in Mexico City, you’ll probably hear “chido” every other sentence before long. This catch-all term expresses admiration; you use it to say something’s cool, awesome, great. It’s used similarly to “padre,” as in “¡Qué chido!” (Cool!) or “Está bien chido” (It’s pretty awesome). The term came from the Asturian word “xidu,” meaning great or beautiful, then on to the Gypsy word “chiro.” Finally in Mexico the “r” rounded out to a “d.”

Pedo:

Like aloha in Hawaii, in Mexican Spanish “pedo” has endless meanings and connotations. Unlike aloha, “pedo” literally means fart. A few of its most common uses are “Qué pedo,” basically “What’s up,” and “Está bien pedo,” as in “He’s wasted.” But there are a LOT of ways to use this term; I could literally dedicate an entire post to it. Instead, I will let beautiful actor and intelligent man Diego Luna explain it to you: his great explanation to Conan O’Brien is here!

Apapachar:

This is one of my personal favorite Mexican slang phrases. Coming from a Nahuatl indigenous root word, this verb basically means “to show care for.” If you look like you need a little TLC, someone might tell you that you need an apapacho, maybe a hug. But this word has a lovelier, deeper meaning. Many Mexicans consider the original Aztec word to truly mean “embrace someone with your soul.”

Chamba:

Mexico City is a metropolis of hustlers, in the best sense of the word. Chilangos work hard, with long hours and higher cost-of-living than the rest of the country. Many of my friends and coworkers do freelance in addition to their day job. This is all part of “chamba,” which means work, but connotes much more. Mexico City residents are always chambeando, hustling for work and opportunities. It’s part of the fabric of this “work hard, play hard” city.

“So what you’re telling me is…now we have more work?”

¡Híjole!:

This expression is usually used when someone is surprised or shocked. If a pedestrian steps out in front of a car and narrowly misses getting hit, most likely both the driver and the pedestrian will exclaim “¡Híjole!”…before shouting something nastier along the lines of “¡Cabrón!” at each other. The phrase actually began as a euphemism for the vulgar expression “hijo de la chingada,” which is kinda the Spanish version of, ahem, motherf**ker. The phrase shortened (also trying to make it less vulgar) to hijo-e-la and morphed into “Híjole.” Use it when you’re surprised, disapproving, or just don’t know what to say or how to react.

“God, I went all the way to Bolivia, and they didn’t even take me to the beach.” (Making fun of Enrique Peña Nieto, the widely mocked former President of Mexico.)

¡Órale!:

As similar as it sounds to the above phrase, “¡Órale!” can mean almost the exact opposite. It basically means what Matthew McConaughey means when he says “Alright alright alright!” You use it to express affirmation, like when the food comes at the restaurant, or someone invites you to a party. ¡Órale! On the flip side, it can be used similarly to híjole sometimes, to express surprise or shock. Just say it whenever.

https://giphy.com/gifs/matthew-mcconaughey-alright-g5zvwUa9720pO

¡Órale, Matt! Gif courtesy of Giphy.

Qué fancy la Nancy:

I use this phrase. All. The. Time. It’s not, erm, traditional, but it’s hilarious. It literally means “How fancy the Nancy,” as in “Well isn’t this fancy.” You basically use it whenever someone comes in to work looking nice, or goes on an expensive vacation, or you go to a chic restaurant. You can genuinely use it to express you’re impressed, or ironically: with something that’s really chafa (cheap), roll your eyes and say “Qué fancy la Nancy.” It’s inspired lots of copycat phrases, including “Qué sexy la Ceci,” all of which combine an adjective and a woman’s name/nickname. I invented my own, “Qué económica la Mónica”© (Copyright Merin McD 2019), which makes fun of how cheap I am. People really get a kick out of it.

Adiós popo:

I’ll end this glossary with one of the most colorful phrases that Chilango youth currently use to say goodbye. “Popó,” like in some parts of the US, is a nickname for the police, but this has nothing to do with them. Just say “Adiós popó” to be a little silly and ridiculous.

“When the bus driver sees you running full speed towards the bus, and leaves anyway…Adiós popó.”

I hope you’ve enjoyed this glossary of popular Mexico City slang! Toss in a phrase or two with local chilangos, and they will be very impressed. I could never put together a comprehensive list, so let me know what you think I missed!

*On a final note, I haven’t included most Mexico City slang that refers to a certain class or social group. I’m working on a future post about class in Mexico City, so those will appear there!

Spring Has Sprung: The 5 Best Spots to Enjoy Mexico City’s Blooms

It may sound overdramatic, but Mexico City spring is genuinely magical for me. Every walk outside brings new little joys: nooks and crannies filled with bougainvillea, climbing nasturtiums, and shady canopies of jacaranda. The other day, I took a ride down the segundo piso, the city’s raised highway, heading south. The high platform affords you panoramic views of the city, but this time, all I could look at were the purple tops of the jacaranda trees. Thousands of them bloom in every corner of the city during March and April, and I enter my personal heaven.

Let’s be honest — it’s spring in Mexico City all year round. But “real spring,” after a sunny and dry winter, does bring an amazing abundance of new blooms and clear skies. Here, I’ve narrowed down the best spots to experience Mexico City spring. Enjoy (I urge you, unironically and enthusiastically), the magic!

1. Botanical Garden of the Bosque de Chapultepec

Nestled just off busy, flower-lined Reforma Avenue, this Botanical Garden is the best place to see a lovely variety of spring flowers. It’s inside the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s Central Park, so really the garden is an oasis within an oasis. The plant varieties change throughout the seasons, and spring brings an explosion of blooms from around Mexico and the world.

2. Parque México

For Mexico City locals, springtime means one thing: jacaranda trees. These purple-hued flowering trees are so prolific in the city, many think they’re native plants. In fact, jacarandas most likely came to Mexico City from Manaus, Brasil. The tree arrived at the gulf port of Veracruz, slowly making its way from garden to garden, all the way to the capital!

The arrival of the jacaranda blooms, carpeting Mexico City in rich purple petals, unequivocally signals spring.

Today, its spectacular purple blooms carpet the city every spring, and make my heart very, very happy. In leafy Parque México in the La Condesa neighborhood, dozens of jacaranda trees line the street, littering sidewalks and grass with their petals until the whole park is purple. Spend a lazy weekend afternoon here, with a coffee and a good book on the patio at Caffé Toscano. You will not regret it.

3. The Side Streets of Coyoacán

For me, often the best way to enjoy a warm spring day is to pick some place in the city I know, start walking in whatever direction looks prettiest, and see where I end up. That’s how I found myself on Francisco Sosa Avenue in Coyoacán one March afternoon. I’ve always loved Coyoacán, the southern neighborhood where Frida Kahlo lived, for its small-town, bohemian atmosphere. But when I stumbled onto this street and its surroundings, I arrived at another level of beauty and charm.

Coyoacán’s narrow cobblestone streets, colonial houses, and overflowing gardens make for one of the best spring walks in Mexico City.

From the center plaza (Jardín Centenario) of Coyoacán, head west along Avenida Francisco Sosa, towards the Viveros de Coyoacán. You can explore the Viveros, a lovely park that grows many of the young trees and plants that end up in other parks. But don’t miss the side streets themselves. This part of the neighborhood really does feel like an old, colonial village, riddled with narrow cobblestone alleyways. Bougainvillea and lush vines spill over everything, while plenty of jacarandas provide shade from the spring sun.

4. The Alameda Central

Nowhere evokes classic, turn-of-the-century Mexico City more than the Alameda Central. Among the stately trees and monuments, you can easily imagine elite defeños (those born in Mexico City) strolling down the main promenade in centuries past. In fact, the Alameda is the oldest public park in the Americas! The park forms a long, splendid walkway through downtown, in between Juarez and Hidalgo Avenues. The area was once an Aztec marketplace, and after the Spanish conquest, Mexico City’s new rulers established the park in 1592. They named it for the álamos, or poplar trees, that fill the park.

Mexico City’s center has plenty of wonderful spring spots too, from the Alameda to lovely Roma neighborhood, shown here.

But for many decades now, the Alameda has been best known for the other famous tree that grows here: the jacaranda, of course. This is one of the undisputed best spots to see the purple blooms, and aerial shots of the Alameda show the full, spectacular effect.

5. The Bosque de Tlalpan

Finally, I encourage you to experience the wilder side of Mexico City spring and get a bit off-the-beaten track at the Bosque de Tlalpan. This expansive protected forest sits in the south of the city, providing much-needed green space among the fresh air and foothills. The Bosque de Tlalpan is best-beloved for its towering bougainvillea plants, showering the paths with magenta petals. On Sundays, head to the church at the entrance of the forest for a weekend market, pick up some fresh produce and homemade ice cream, and venture in for a spring picnic.

Mexico City’s several bosques (forests) are fantastic spring spots, from the Bosque de Chapultepec shown here, to the Bosque de Tlalpan.

This is not a comprehensive list by any means — there are hundreds of fantastic spots to experience Mexico City spring. But I hope these inspire you to explore: just pick a Point A and start walking!