A Guide to Mexico City Public Transportation: Trains, Buses, and Beyond

When you think of Mexico City — even if you’ve never been here — one thing probably comes to mind: traffic. I can’t argue with the assessment that the city’s traffic is crazy; I’ve been stuck in it for frustrating hours. But what many people don’t tell you? You don’t have to drive everywhere! This isn’t a sprawling, suburban American city, where nearly everyone is expected to own a car. While cars are certainly status symbols in Mexico (just like in the U.S.), many people don’t have them, meaning diverse transport options have sprung up in this void.

While Mexico City public transportation is far from perfect, I use it pretty happily every single day. It’s fantastic value, and many Chilangos take public transportation to get where they’re going faster and avoid the city’s infamous traffic jams. That said, the system is complex, making transport intimidating to city newcomers. In this guide, I’ll take you through public transportation options in Mexico City, sharing my tips on navigation and safety as well.

General Tips and Advice

Navigating:

Visiting a friend in London this summer, I was introduced to Citymapper, an incredibly detailed and comprehensive app to get around the city’s transportation network. When I returned home to Mexico City, I opened the app and discovered that it worked here — and in many other global cities!

Citymapper really is a game changer. Use it like Google Maps or Waze, inputting where you want to go. But instead of giving you a few limited options or encouraging you to drive, the app will show you… Every. Possible. Route. Wanna take only peseros, the mini-buses that wildly zip around the city, for some reason? You can. Want to take the metro, even if it means walking longer? Do it. The app uncannily knows everything about this crazy city’s transport, even the approximate times and stops for informal transit choices. After you choose your route, Citymapper will walk you through the entire process. It tells you the best part of the train to board, which exit to take at the stations, and exactly what everything costs. They’re not paying me — I just really love Citymapper.

A final note on navigation: no app is perfect, nor is cell reception and data endless. When in doubt, ask a mom or a student nearby for help on navigation. People are generally very nice, and it’s better to swallow your pride than to get lost in the mega-city!

Photo courtesy of Ricardo Esquivel from Pexels.

Safety:

I feel generally quite safe on the Metro and Metrobus, but everything is a question of location. The Mexico City subway has 195 stations spread out all over, from very posh, well-heeled neighborhoods to quite dangerous areas. Ask a local friend or colleague before heading to a new part of the city, whatever type of transportation you’re using.

Even in safer areas, the subway and Metrobus aren’t without their safety problems. Mostly, this means pickpocketing and petty theft. Busy commuter stations like Tacubaya, Pino Suarez, and Balderas are targets for pickpockets during the busy work week. Meanwhile, the start and endpoints of several subway lines, including the Pantitlan and Indios Verdes stations, can be crazy during rush hour, an many people who live in Mexico State/the suburbs pass through these stations to get to work.

None of this is intended to scare you! I have had no safety issue or robbery on public transit. Instead, I just want you to be cautious. Avoid these stations at rush hour (7:30-9 AM, 5-7:30 PM on weekdays) if possible. Always keep your belongings in a closed bag or backpack, held in front of you — not in your pockets. Just stay aware, not completely zoned out, speaking loudly in English, or on the phone, and it’s unlikely you’ll encounter an issue.

Being a Woman on Public Transport

Several forms of Mexico City public transportation have women’s sections. This image and cover photo courtesy of Wikimedia.

Sexual harassment is an issue on Mexico City public transportation, like in most of the world. Nearly all of this harassment is focused on women. The Metro has a pink section designated only for women, children, older people, and people with disabilities. While I wish it wasn’t necessary, I love this section and think other cities/countries should copy the idea. I use this section, which is also on the Metrobus, exclusively, and highly recommend it if you identify as a woman.

On other forms of Mexico City public transportation, frankly I don’t feel as comfortable. Men sometimes cede their seats to women — take it, if it’s offered to you. Otherwise, standing on buses can be uncomfortable, as you’re very close to others and at times, there are creepy men. Particularly as a foreign woman, sometimes I feel very conspicuous. My method is to avoid taking crowded buses whenever possible: I walk, bike, Metro, and Metrobus instead.

After 9 PM, I usually don’t take any form of public transport, except the Metro/Metrobus in areas I know and trust. Sometimes it’s worth it to just take an Uber — once again, perhaps especially if you’re a woman. In general, many locals feel that the Metro and Metrobus are safer than buses or peseros. Still, as in any big city, you’ll probably feel safer in public transit in areas like Polanco and San Angel, than in Iztapalapa or Ciudad Neza, reflecting the vast security differences and inequities of Mexico City.

The Metro

Now, I’ll give you brief overviews and tips for different forms of transportation in Mexico City. I ordered these transport options basically from what I take and like the most (Metro) to the least (small, crowded buses).

This year marks the 50th Anniversary of the Mexico City Metro, and honestly, I love it. I argue with people all the time, because I think it’s better than the subways of New York and London. It’s generally quite fast, and while it does get crowded at rush hour, most people are respectful. I don’t have to board at a super busy, end-of-line station, where it’s so packed all this flies out the window, so I’m sure that would affect my feelings.

The system is fairly extensive and well-designed. Different colors signal different lines, and cool icons symbolize each station, which are named after everything from revolutionary heroes to Prehispanic markets. I often find that when there’s traffic, it’s faster than any other form of transportation I might take.

You need a plastic card to ride, which you can buy at many Metro stations and all Metrobus stations for five pesos, and recharge up to 99 pesos at a time. At five pesos per ride (around one quarter), the system is amazing value.

Metrobus

The newer Metrobus system runs along a few long routes that aren’t covered by the Metro, going up to the border with Mexico State and, most usefully in my opinion, all the way down Insurgentes Avenue. These shiny red buses run up and down major avenues in their own lane, meaning you can avoid the traffic. However, the buses are still, well, buses. They’re not high speed underground trains. They drive at a moderate pace, and have to wait at every stoplight — rather than putting the buses on freeways, they placed them on avenues with plenty of stops.

To access the Metrobus, you use the same card as the Metro (sold at machines at many Metrobus stations). The stops are raised, glass door thingies perched in the middle of major streets. Wait for the light, and carefully cross to enter the station and swipe your card. The Metrobus is considered quite safe, and has a women’s section just like the Metro. The buses have their destination on the front: make sure it’s the same destination listed in Citymapper or Google Maps, or the bus could stop short of your final station.

For fun, take the double decker Metrobus on Reforma Avenue, and enjoy fabulous views of many iconic Mexico City sights. You’ll pass Chapultepec Forest, the Angel of Independence, and many skyscrapers, all for six pesos. I don’t love the Metrobus, as it can be a little slow, but it works in a pinch! the bus costs six pesos per ride.

Bike Rentals

Like New York, LA, and probably every major world city at this point, Mexico City has exploded with bike rentals. The most popular service is called Ecobici, run by the city itself to promote health and green forms of transit. The bikes are sturdy, and you’ll find them at stations all over the city. You can register for the excellent, cheap service online here or at Oaxaca #7 in the Colonia Roma.

Plenty of other international start-ups have gotten in the game, with free-standing bikes you can leave wherever. Mobikes are orange, while Jumps are red (and run by Uber). You’ll find them scattered around hipster neighborhoods mostly, and they have their respective apps. I like Mobike and sometimes use it, but their range is smaller than Ecobici, and none of these start-ups can beat the great value of Ecobici either! You can get an annual pass for just over $20 USD.

You’ll notice I’m not including scooters in this section, or anywhere in this article. Several friends have had accidents on them in Mexico City. Biking can already be risky — please wear a helmet, and watch out for cars that don’t always respect the bike lanes. Always bike on the correct side of the street, and be aware that bicyclists going the wrong way, pedestrians, and even cars will most likely obstruct your path at some point. Electric scooters are even riskier here, because they’re faster and harder to operate, making quick maneuvers or stops difficult in the case of crazy drivers in cars. A final note on bikes: try not to leave bikes in the middle of the sidewalk. Mexico City neighbors don’t like it, and I get it — it’s annoying to walk around them, and just imagine pushing a stroller or wheelchair!

Buses

Mexico City has an incredibly extensive system of buses, mostly purple and green. I once drove three hours — there was some traffic, but still — to the far reaches of the “city,” through countryside and tiny villages. When I got there, I found the same green buses I see in my own central neighborhood. Along with this diversity comes a wide range of quality.

Technically, the Metro card should eventually work for many buses — don’t count on this. The main bus system is called RTP. To take the bus, you should have exact change; the driver won’t make change with you. Most buses cost four to seven pesos, with the cheap “locals” costing only two, but making a ton of stops. I used to take a purple bus every day when I worked in Lomas de Chapultepec, a wealthy area with no Metro stop, Metrobus, or bike rentals. It was a fine experience: just line up, and during peak hours, plenty of buses will pass by.

All buses list their final destinations, along with major landmarks/spots along their route, on the front window. When in doubt, ask the driver if he goes as far as your final destination, as some stop short.

Finally, you’ll see quite a few electric buses attached to lines above them, which are a wonderful addition in a smoggy city with too many old, exhaust-spewing vehicles. These are part of the Trolebús system. Some, like the blue ones on Felix Cuevas Avenue, are brand-new and really nice, running frequently so they’re not too crowded. Others, like the M1 near downtown and Tlatelolco, are green, snail-slow, and very crowded. As with other options of Mexico City public transportation, buses vary greatly, and it’ll be a process of deciding which you like and which you don’t.

Peseros and Combis

A classic Mexico City *pesero.* Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Peseros, rickety-looking green buses around 15 feet long, and combis, privately-driven vans, are the most informal transportation options in Mexico City. Despite this, they do run along set routes, and peseros even show up in Citymapper. I don’t love peseros: they are very inexpensive, but that also means they’re an easy target for robbery.

A combi in Taxco, Guerrero, a town famous for its VW Bug taxis as well. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia.

I actually like combis occasionally: they’re often faster than buses, more nimble in traffic, and while they can get very crowded, if you see a fairly empty one, nab a seat much comfier than that of a bus. On the other hand, due to the informal nature of these options, they aren’t considered especially safe or secure. The driving can also be a little nuts — thrilling or anxiety-inducing, depending on your personality. In a pinch, combis aren’t a bad option to get around in areas with few transport choices. They usually cost around five to ten pesos.

Localized Options: The Train Ligero, Tren Suburbano, and Teleférico

To wrap up, there are several forms of Mexico City public transportation that only exist in certain areas. Regardless, you never know when you’ll find yourself in Xochimilco or needing to go to Mexico State, for example, and you’ll need this information!

Tren Ligero

The tren ligero (light rail) is essentially an extension of the Metro system, helping make the connection to the south of the city. From the Tasqueña blue line Metro station, this diminutive light rail reaches down to Xochimilco, the canals and islands that form one of Mexico’s UNESCO sites and a popular tourist destination. These aboveground trains are small and slower than the Metro, taking around 30-40 minutes to reach the last stop. Currently, the first half of the system is closed under renovation — so don’t trust your Google Maps or Citymapper, which seem to ignore this. Overall, it’s a tranquil, safe little train, and at only three pesos per ride, it’s quite inexpensive.

Tren Suburbano

The tren suburbano (suburban train) connects Mexico City to its northern ‘burbs in a similar fashion. It begins at Buenavista station (get out of the metro station and hop right across to the suburban train), a teeming center just north of downtown that includes shopping, restaurants, and an ice rink beyond the train platforms. (While you’re there, pop in to the famous Vasconcelos Library, right around the corner.) Buenavista is the only place in Mexico City that reminds me of a “real” train station, like those found in Europe and Asia. You need a different plastic card for this train, which you can buy at ticket counters. Each ride costs up to 19 pesos, quite steep for Mexican transit, but good value at about $1 USD for the distance.

One of the suburban train’s current taglines is “It changed my life,” and truly, this isn’t far off. If you live in Mexico State and work in the city, as tens of thousands do, this was a game-changer. The train can fill up, but it’s fast and clean — before this, imagine taking several buses or combis into the city, trapped in terrible traffic. What was once a multi-hour journey, many of my friends now undertake in 30-60 minutes. You can take the train all the way up to Cuatitlán in Mexico State.

Teleférico

After that comes the final form of public transportation: the teleférico (cable car). If you head out to Teotihuacan, the famous pyramids north of Mexico City, you’ll briefly pass under the swinging cable cars, which cross above the highway in Mexico State. There’s only one route, called “Mexicable.” To be honest, it’s not likely that you’ll use the Mexicable. It’s located in Ecatepec, quite a dangerous municipality outside of Mexico City. The cable cars themselves are a nice, safe, modern system, and provide an important service for many locals. When you pass the teleférico, look at the small houses rising up into the hills, and imagine getting between them without a car, or stuck in traffic in a crowded bus. Taking a creative approach, the developers helped paint murals on many buildings along the route, making for a more scenic ride — not a bad deal for six pesos.

While you probably won’t use this cable car, Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum has proposed plans to build four more teleféricos in the city itself! If she follows through on the promise, we could be gliding in cable cars above boroughs like Álvaro Obregón, Gustavo A. Madero, Tlalpan, and Iztapalapa. I’m especially excited about a proposal that would potentially connect the first two sections of Chapultepec Park, which are a headache to get between now.

From the Metro to the Metrobus, cable cars to combis, Mexico City public transportation is slowly moving forward. It still has a long way to go, but in my opinion, it already surpasses most American cities in affordable transport options for the carless (such as myself). With lots of variation within the systems, it takes time to get confident with all of them and explore the city!

Welcome to Chilangolandia: Mexico City Slang Guide (Part 1)

To me, nothing reflects the vivacity and color of daily life in Mexico City more than language. Locals have invented countless slang words over the course of the city’s long history. Some of them date back to Aztec times, while others are hilarious Mexican-izations of American phrases. All of these words reveal the creativity, cultural blending, and constant changes that drive this city.

Here, I’ve compiled a list of my favorite “chilangüismos”: slang words used mostly in Mexico City, though some phrases are used in other parts of Mexico.* I hope they help you communicate, relate to locals, and give you insight into the city’s unique culture! There are simply too many phrases for one post, so I’ll explore this topic more in the future!

Chilango:

If you’re going to learn one bit of Mexico City slang, let it be the word “Chilango.” This refers to Mexico City residents themselves, whether they were born here or not. Locals often dispute its origin, possibly linking it back to the Nahuatl (language of the Aztecs and many other Central Mexican peoples) word “chilan-co,” which once referred to people from Central Mexico. The phrase became popular in other states around Mexico, where, ahem, Mexico City residents aren’t always beloved. Folks say “Haz patria y mata a un chilango”: literally “be patriotic and kill a chilango,” but more an insult than a real threat. Chilangos took the insult in stride, and reclaimed it as a word of pride. These days, the city’s magazine is called Chilango, and is a great resource for local information.

https://giphy.com/gifs/univisionnoticias-mexico-traffic-city-3oz8xJCb5kwrwd7I40

Defeño:

Many Mexico City residents, whether they were born here or not, consider themselves chilangos. Defeños, on the other hand, are a more rarified group — they were born in Mexico City, and some view chilangos as outsiders or interlopers. The term comes from D.F., Distrito Federal (Federal District), which is what Mexico City used to be called. This designation, similar to Washington D.C., came with issues of representation, and so a few years they officially transformed Mexico City into its own state. The Federal District is no more.

De provincia:

This is one of the snootiest Mexico City slang phrases out there. “De provincia,” literally “provincial” is almost always used in a derogatory way to imply that people from outside the capital are less sophisticated simpletons or rubes. Not one of my favorite local phrases, but an important one to understand attitudes that some in the city do have.

Edomex:

This is the last term I’ll discuss that deals with location and residency. “Edomex” simply shortens “Estado de México,” Mexico State. This is the state that surrounds Mexico City, and makes up the Metro Area of the huge capital, over doubling its size.

“When someone lives in Mexico State…and thinks they’re a defeño.” Note: Mexico City folks love to hate on Mexico State! I don’t endorse this view (or this meme) myself.

Colonia:

In much of Latin America, and even Latino areas in the U.S., you’ll hear “barrio” all the time to refer to “neighborhood.” Here in Mexico City, the city is split up into huge delegaciones, or districts, and each district has dozens of colonias, or neighborhoods. The other common word you’ll hear for neighborhood is zona, which is more general.

Qué padre:

When you think of Mexico City slang, you most likely think of “Qué padre,” one of Mexico’s most famous phrases. Literally meaning “How daddy,” locals use this to say things are cool or awesome. For example, if a local Chilango shows you their favorite taco stand or city sight, say “Qué padre!” to express your admiration.

“Ohhhh…cool.” Like the way John Oliver says “cool.” The phrase can be used sincerely, or very, very sarcastically.

Guëy:

“Güey” is probably the second most well-known phrase for foreigners in the Mexican lexicon, with “Ay güey!” as its stereotypical use. Güey basically works just like “dude” or “man” in the U.S. — you use it with friends, tacking it onto phrases like “What’s up, man?” The word came from “buey,” meaning ox or bull, to refer insultingly to men, but now it’s lost that meaning. In the internet age, lots of people spell it “wey,” too.

“When you’re Mexican, and you’ve gone five minutes without saying güey/wey.”

Chavo:

“Chavo” is similar to güey, used as a catch-all, casual term for a person, usually young. You would describe that “chavo” who was creepy to you on the subway, or a couple of “chavas” you’re going to hang out with after work. Some linguists think the term, used in different spots in Latin America, came from the gypsy word “chaval,” which meant boy.

No mames:

If you’ve watched a lot of Mexican movies or TV, from the classic “Y Tu Mamá También” to new hit “Narcos México,” you’ve probably heard characters groan “No mames, güey” to complain. In unpleasant or awful situations, Mexicans often turn to this phrase to say “You’re kidding me”… albeit in a more vulgar way. “No mames” is like the “Screw this” of Mexico, but literally, it refers to, ahem, sucking — either related to a baby breastfeeding, or oral sex. Literally, it doesn’t make a ton of sense. Anyways, because of the graphic nature of the phrase, the Televisa TV network started using “No manches,” basically a more polite way to express dissatisfaction.

Are there a lot of Chihuahua memes in Mexico? I’ve got to be honest…yes, yes there are.

La neta:

“La neta” is one of the most common phrases I hear every day in Mexico City. It means “the truth,” but people use it as “honestly” or “on the DL” too, to represent the Absolute Truth. So you’d say “La neta, no me cae bien”: “To be completely honest, I just don’t like him.” You can also use it as a question, as in “¿Es neta?”: “Seriously/Really?” Young Chilangos love the word, and it most likely comes from the French word “net,” which means “clear/pure.”

Godín:

No one wants to be a Godín, but most of us are. This word basically means a white collar office worker, what Americans used to call a pencil-pusher, and the Japanese call a Salaryman. A Godín has a boring but stable office job, commutes on crowded public transport, and brings a “tupper” (tupperware) with their lunch every day. It’s impossible to track a precise origin of the term, though some say it came from jokes on the popular “El Chavo del 8” comedy show years ago. Regardless, the Godinez (the plural of Godín) are here to stay. As much as we make fun of them, we also identify with them…they’re a reflection of modern city life and Mexican workaholism. So much so, that even Pepsi made a popular ad laughing knowingly at the Godín lifestyle.

Al chile:

“Al chile” is a somewhat lewder way to say “la neta,” as in “the truth” or “really?” While technically it refers to the chili pepper, it really has a more phallic connotation…no, I can’t really explain why. Sometimes it’s better to just accept Mexico City slang. Don’t question it. Amusingly, people wanting to be polite will say “al children” as a weird, nonsensical substitute.

“Ok girl, tell me the truth: how do my brows look?”

Chafa:

Chafa means cheap or shoddy, and it’s use all the time in Mexico City. That presentation was chafa, your disappointed professor might say. That girl looks so chafa. That store was super chafa. It has endless uses — there’s plenty of chafa stuff in this giant, crazy city, after all.

When Julie buys a new purse…and it’s cheap af.

Cabrón:

This word is used all over Mexico…but that doesn’t mean you should use it lightly. It is the Mexican equivalent of asshole, as in jerk or idiot. But unlike those English words, friends also use it amongst themselves, as a fake-insulting term of endearment just like “güey.” Cabrón comes from cabra, meaning goat. Be careful using it, as it will be taken as an insult by strangers.

Chido:

If you listen to a conversation between young people in Mexico City, you’ll probably hear “chido” every other sentence before long. This catch-all term expresses admiration; you use it to say something’s cool, awesome, great. It’s used similarly to “padre,” as in “¡Qué chido!” (Cool!) or “Está bien chido” (It’s pretty awesome). The term came from the Asturian word “xidu,” meaning great or beautiful, then on to the Gypsy word “chiro.” Finally in Mexico the “r” rounded out to a “d.”

Pedo:

Like aloha in Hawaii, in Mexican Spanish “pedo” has endless meanings and connotations. Unlike aloha, “pedo” literally means fart. A few of its most common uses are “Qué pedo,” basically “What’s up,” and “Está bien pedo,” as in “He’s wasted.” But there are a LOT of ways to use this term; I could literally dedicate an entire post to it. Instead, I will let beautiful actor and intelligent man Diego Luna explain it to you: his great explanation to Conan O’Brien is here!

Apapachar:

This is one of my personal favorite Mexican slang phrases. Coming from a Nahuatl indigenous root word, this verb basically means “to show care for.” If you look like you need a little TLC, someone might tell you that you need an apapacho, maybe a hug. But this word has a lovelier, deeper meaning. Many Mexicans consider the original Aztec word to truly mean “embrace someone with your soul.”

Chamba:

Mexico City is a metropolis of hustlers, in the best sense of the word. Chilangos work hard, with long hours and higher cost-of-living than the rest of the country. Many of my friends and coworkers do freelance in addition to their day job. This is all part of “chamba,” which means work, but connotes much more. Mexico City residents are always chambeando, hustling for work and opportunities. It’s part of the fabric of this “work hard, play hard” city.

“So what you’re telling me is…now we have more work?”

¡Híjole!:

This expression is usually used when someone is surprised or shocked. If a pedestrian steps out in front of a car and narrowly misses getting hit, most likely both the driver and the pedestrian will exclaim “¡Híjole!”…before shouting something nastier along the lines of “¡Cabrón!” at each other. The phrase actually began as a euphemism for the vulgar expression “hijo de la chingada,” which is kinda the Spanish version of, ahem, motherf**ker. The phrase shortened (also trying to make it less vulgar) to hijo-e-la and morphed into “Híjole.” Use it when you’re surprised, disapproving, or just don’t know what to say or how to react.

“God, I went all the way to Bolivia, and they didn’t even take me to the beach.” (Making fun of Enrique Peña Nieto, the widely mocked former President of Mexico.)

¡Órale!:

As similar as it sounds to the above phrase, “¡Órale!” can mean almost the exact opposite. It basically means what Matthew McConaughey means when he says “Alright alright alright!” You use it to express affirmation, like when the food comes at the restaurant, or someone invites you to a party. ¡Órale! On the flip side, it can be used similarly to híjole sometimes, to express surprise or shock. Just say it whenever.

https://giphy.com/gifs/matthew-mcconaughey-alright-g5zvwUa9720pO

¡Órale, Matt! Gif courtesy of Giphy.

Qué fancy la Nancy:

I use this phrase. All. The. Time. It’s not, erm, traditional, but it’s hilarious. It literally means “How fancy the Nancy,” as in “Well isn’t this fancy.” You basically use it whenever someone comes in to work looking nice, or goes on an expensive vacation, or you go to a chic restaurant. You can genuinely use it to express you’re impressed, or ironically: with something that’s really chafa (cheap), roll your eyes and say “Qué fancy la Nancy.” It’s inspired lots of copycat phrases, including “Qué sexy la Ceci,” all of which combine an adjective and a woman’s name/nickname. I invented my own, “Qué económica la Mónica”© (Copyright Merin McD 2019), which makes fun of how cheap I am. People really get a kick out of it.

Adiós popo:

I’ll end this glossary with one of the most colorful phrases that Chilango youth currently use to say goodbye. “Popó,” like in some parts of the US, is a nickname for the police, but this has nothing to do with them. Just say “Adiós popó” to be a little silly and ridiculous.

“When the bus driver sees you running full speed towards the bus, and leaves anyway…Adiós popó.”

I hope you’ve enjoyed this glossary of popular Mexico City slang! Toss in a phrase or two with local chilangos, and they will be very impressed. I could never put together a comprehensive list, so let me know what you think I missed!

*On a final note, I haven’t included most Mexico City slang that refers to a certain class or social group. I’m working on a future post about class in Mexico City, so those will appear there!

Housing Guide: How to Rent an Apartment in Mexico City

Searching for an apartment in any new city is a challenge. Here in Mexico City, the process can seem especially daunting for foreigners. Often facing a language barrier, an unfamiliar system, and even some fraudsters targeting clueless gringos, finding a decent, fairly-priced apartment is no easy feat. Lucky for you, this gringa and her friends have seen it all. I hope my apartment search tips can help you make an informed decision and find your ideal living situation in this beautiful city.

How to Search for Apartments

If you’re coming from the U.S., Canada, or Europe, your modern apartment hunt is probably 100% digital. You go to Zillow and similar websites, search for options in your area and price range, and dozens if not hundreds of options pop up. The Mexico City apartment search is a little different. There are online options, and I’ll get to those in a minute. But you might have to be a bit more creative here to find your perfect apartment. Here’s a rundown on your apartment search options:

In Person

I highly recommend that you rent a cheap, well-located AirBnB room for at least a couple weeks when you come to Mexico City. During this time, explore the city, and choose a couple of your favorite neighborhoods — close to work if you have a job, close to classes if you’re studying. On the weekends, walk around these neighborhoods and snap pictures of every “Se Renta” (For Rent) sign you see. Call or WhatsApp the numbers, request price and other info (just ask for “los datos del departamento”) and schedule a visit. This is how I found my apartment.

It’s not fool-proof, but it’s probably the most common method in any Mexico City apartment search. It gives you the chance to see many apartments that aren’t posted online, and often for lower prices. If you know locals — friends, coworkers, etc. — don’t hesitate to ask them too! Mexico City runs on personal connections, and it’s likely that somebody knows somebody moving out, who may be willing to give you a deal.

Online

That said, there are increasingly good options to apartment hunt online. This is actually the best option if you’re just looking for a room, in a shared apartment with roommates. If that’s the case, check out Dada Room and CompartoDepa — these are typical roommate search websites, where you make a profile, and pay if you want more up-to-date postings. You can specify what kind of living situation you’re looking for, including the area, pets or not, smoking/non-smoking, etc.

Send a lot of messages, because many of the listings are old, and you might not get many responses. You can check out Craigslist too, but these are mostly directed at foreigners with inflated prices. Also check out Facebook groups like Roomies VIP CDMX, with plenty of high quality listings. Just be careful about who you choose as roommates, and try not to sign a highly binding contract. I’ve known quite a few people who ended up in bad shared situations, and you want to be able to leave quickly if you need to.

Behind the many charming old doors of Mexico City’s neighborhoods, there are plenty of amazing apartments.

If you’re looking for an entire apartment of your own, there are online options for you too. This is especially true if you’re looking for a temporary place for a couple months, or a furnished apartment. Some of the best ones are Vivanuncios, Lamudi, and Inmuebles 24, which all function basically like Zillow. Make sure you specify “renta” rather than “venta” (buy) on these search engines.

You can also search by area on Facebook Marketplace and direct message people. But be warned: these online listings are often directed at foreigners, because expats tend to search digitally more than locals. That often means inflated rent prices and limited listings in many neighborhoods. Tread with caution, and you might find a gem in higher end neighborhoods like Polanco and Condesa.

What Neigborhood to Live In

In my experience, expats tend to cluster in a few neighborhoods in Mexico City: La Condesa, Roma, Polanco, Santa Fe, and Lomas de Chapultepec. I understand why — it’s tough finding apartments, and these areas often advertise to foreigners and are close to their work. I’ll discuss these neighborhoods (in Mexico City, these are called “zonas” or “colonias”), and suggest some other great options that don’t yet have a huge expat presence.

La Condesa and Roma

These are two of the most central, beautiful neighborhoods in all of Mexico City. In recent years, the historic colonial, 19th century, and even Art Deco buildings of La Condesa and Roma have filled with art galleries and restaurants. The current hipster scene here has, understandably, made the areas extremely desirable to live. Tons of young expats make their home here happily. Because of this, however, rents are very high, and you’ll hear English everywhere you go. One last caveat is that these neighborhoods are on some of the city’s least stable soil, and are prone to tons of earthquake damage.

Polanco

This genteel, European-looking neighborhood is a longtime foreigner favorite, beginning when many Jewish immigrants moved here in the early 20th century. Today, this influences remains in the upscale neighborhood, alongside many of the city’s wealthy residents. There’s plenty of older and lovely modern apartments available — for a steep price. Many locals, however, see Polanco as snooty. The closer you get to Parque Lincoln and President Masaryk Avenue (the Rodeo Drive of Mexico), the pricier the rent. Check out nearby Anzures, just north of Polanco, for somewhat lower rents and an equally great location.

San Miguel Chapultepec

Now we’ve arrived at my personal favorite among these centralized, historic neighborhoods. As the name suggests, San Miguel Chapultepec is right next to the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s Central Park. The proximity to the park makes this an amazingly tranquil, quiet neighborhood — like a small town, right in the center of the metropolis. These days, the colonia has its fair share of hipsters and art galleries, but it remains more low key than nearby Condesa, Roma, and Polanco. Rents aren’t cheap, but still a little lower than those neighborhoods.

Neighborhoods like La Condesa are high in demand with renters due to their old world charm. That also, of course, means higher rents.

Colonia Narvarte, Colonia Nápoles, and Colonia del Valle

Just a bit south and east from Roma and Condesa, these neighborhoods have a lot going for them. All three are a bit less fancy and perfectly preserved than the alternatives above, but they have plenty of charm to go around. They have central locations close to public transport, and lower rents that attract more young professionals every year.

Coyoacán and San Angel

These are two of my favorite neighborhoods in Mexico City. They have everything, from gorgeous colonial houses to winding streets to art to street life. Coyoacán has the absolute loveliest plaza in the city, the Jardín Centenario. Coyoacán in particular has more affordable housing options than many of these other neighborhoods. But these areas are pretty far south of the center — I only recommend them if you work remotely, or in the south of the city. If not, your daily commute will be a huge headache.

Lomas de Chapultepec and Santa Fe

I don’t recommend these neighborhoods, unless you have a very high budget and prefer a suburban environment. Both Lomas de Chapultepec (usually just shortened to “Lomas”) and Santa Fe are hilly, extremely upscale areas towards the Center-South of Mexico City. Lomas is the Mexico’s Beverly Hills, with huge mansions — and not a ton of apartments.

Santa Fe is a new, glitzy business area with many companies’ HQs, so it’s mostly huge modern skyscrapers. These areas have poor public transport, so live here if you have plenty of money, have a car, and work in an office here. As you can tell, these aren’t my favorite areas. But they are pretty, with lots of green space, and beautiful views of the mountains.

While apartments often are available in lovely, historic buildings, make sure they have structural integrity and maintenance. Mexico City is earthquake-prone, and these is a key factor in housing.

What To Look Out For

As a foreigner, you need to be careful during your Mexico City apartment search — as you would be anywhere. Here’s a few issues to watch out for:

Prices listed in dollars

When you see a listing online, double check that the price is listed in Mexican pesos, not U.S. dollars. Believe it or not, some neighborhoods in Mexico City (I’m looking at you, Polanco and Lomas de Chapultepec) will often show rent in dollars! Many of these neighborhoods’ residents are very wealthy, and plenty are foreign, so make sure you’re not signing up to pay USD $8,000 a month…

Not Having a Fiador (Co-signer)

This issue depends a lot on the nature of your apartment search. If you’re renting a whole apartment, rather than just a room, you may run into this problem. A lot of Mexico City rental contracts requiere a fiador, or co-signer — this means a Mexican citizen who vouches for you legally and financially. Not all apartments do, but usually there’s a way around it as a foreigner. I put down a larger security deposit (two months rent) to avoid the requirement. Sometimes, you may be able to talk a landlord out of it entirely.

Scams and Sketchiness

The vast, vast majority of people renting out apartments in Mexico City are honest and just want a decent price for their property. There are, however, some predatory/scammer landlords, who often target foreigners who may not know the intricacies of Mexico City housing. If you’re subletting a room, only do so from someone who actually lives in the apartment, and proves they own/rent it — this is a common scam. Ask your landlord to show proof he or she returns security deposits to renters, as some try to take your deposit at the end.

Also, don’t agree to any “special payment plans” with a landlord, like paying two months rent at once for a discount — it may be a way to steal that money, then evict you before the months are up. Double check which utilities are included and how to pay the ones that aren’t, and check that water runs all the time. Finally, if your potential landlord seems sketchy or off to you, follow your intuition. Especially in a city where people often don’t use formal contracts, it’s better to avoid anyone who seems at all suspicious. I personally know of one confirmed scammer landlord: Luis Jovany Salmeron Ramos. Avoid him!

Listings That Aren’t Honest About the Neighborhood They’re In

When it comes to online apartment listings, a lot of them will list their location as “Condesa” and so on. In reality, they might not be in that neighborhood, but rather on the outskirts, or in another neighborhood entirely. Be sure to get the address, look it up, and confirm it’s in your desired neighborhood.

Keep an eye out for rental signs like this all over the city.

Noisy Neighbors

Most big cities have issues with thin-walled apartments and loud, obnoxious neighbors. If you like tranquility or you’re a sensitive to noise, be very careful during your Mexico City apartment search. Watch out for nearby buildings/lots under construction, and listen for noisy neighbors when you visit an apartment. Parties are very common in many apartments, and you may be seen as rude if you ask them to quiet down, even very late if it’s a weekend. Technically you can report neighbors (find info on how to do it here) for noise violations. I recommend apartments in San Miguel Chapultepec, San Angel, and residential-only streets in Roma for maximum chances at peace.

I hope my housing guide helps you make the apartment search in Mexico City a bit easier. Whether you end up in a posh penthouse in Polanco, or a shared student apartment, there’s lots of great housing in the city — if you know how to find it.