If I’m craving anything during the Covid-19 pandemic, it’s nature. Living in southern Mexico City, I’m fortunate to have access to several pretty, quiet neighborhoods and smallish parks for my socially-distanced walks. But while I’m grateful to be away from downtown crowds, I’ve been sorely missing “real” wilderness. You know it when you see it: sprawling parks or forests that provide true respite from the city. Spots to curl up with a good book. Places where you can no longer hear traffic, car horns, and the omnipresent voice blaring “se compran colchones, tambores, refrigeradores…”

As we cautiously navigate the nueva normalidad (new normal), many Mexico City parks are open with precautions. Indoor restaurants and shopping centers are open as well, but frankly, you won’t find this nervous gringa there any time soon. I am, however, delighted at the reopening of larger and more wild green spaces. There, we can enjoy nature while maintaining a safe distance!

I’ve been wanting to write about the best Mexico City parks for quite some time, and this seemed like the perfect excuse. In the following guide, I’ll be sharing as many large, wild-ish green spaces as I could find. You won’t find small to medium parks (i.e. Parque Mexico), green plazas (Plaza Rio de Janeiro) or quite highly urbanized ones (Parque Hundido, Parque La Mexicana) in this particular guide. This isn’t because they’re not gorgeous —many of them are, and I love visiting them! Rather, I’m focusing on wilderness or semi-wild green spaces where you can take a deep breath of fresh air and socially distance stress-free. After all, we need somewhere to escape our many 2021 anxieties, if only for a day.

Section A: Accessible & Semi-Urban Green Spaces

First, I’ll go through a number of large Mexico City parks that many of us can access with relative ease. These are spots I normally reach walking or using public transportation, and can currently get to on bike or foot to be extra cautious. In short, these parks are in urban or semi-urban areas you can usually get to without a car, yet their size means you can still enjoy a real escape into nature.

1) Viveros de Coyoacán

The Viveros (nurseries) de Coyoacán are one of Mexico City’s loveliest parks. They provide crucial “lungs” to the south of the city, just as Chapultepec does for the center. At 39 hectares (almost 4.2 million square feet), once you walk into the park, the surrounding noises melt away. As the name suggests, the Viveros include a large tree and plant nursery. Back in 1901, celebrated engineer and researcher Miguel Ángel de Quevedo donated a single hectare of land here to start Mexico’s first forestry nursery.

Today, the Viveros are so much more. It’s still home to many young trees that will later make their way to other parks and forests around the metro area. It also has a cluster of small, family-owned commercial nurseries on Avenida Mexico. This spot between Entrances 3 and 4 gives you the chance to purchase a dazzling variety of plants and flowers. And as for the rest of the park? The Viveros are divided by types of trees. Elegant, wide paths flow between rows of towering cedars, pines, oaks, sweetgums, and many other tree types.

This most beloved of southern Mexico City parks has become a gathering place for hobbyists, who come on the weekends to practice everything from karate to yoga to theater. Just be conscious that due to its popularity, Viveros de Coyoacán can get a bit busy. Its wide paths, however, make it fairly easy to maintain distance. Go before noon or on weekdays for fewer visitors. It’s easily accessible on bike or foot if you’re heading to the Coyoacán neighborhood, as well as from the Viveros de Coyoacán metro stop.

Hours:

6 am to 5 pm everyday. Currently, only Puerta 1 is open. (Search “Viveros de Coyoacán Puerta 1” on Google Maps to find it.)

2) Bosque de Chapultepec

Of course, no respectable list could leave out the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s largest and best known urban park. This multi-section park stretches across the center-west of the city, sprawling over an area twice the size of New York City’s Central Park. It includes everything from perfect picnic spots to multiple (rather green-hued) lakes, a bustling zoo to a castle, Diego Rivera mosaics and murals to truly wild, towering forests.

I know, I know — I need to do a post only on everything Chapultepec Forest has to offer. And I will, once all of its offerings are safely accessible and up-and-running again post-Covid. Like many Mexico City parks, the Bosque is currently operating at 30% capacity. At the moment, I strongly recommend going on a weekday if possible to avoid the crowds. If this isn’t possible, stay away from the heavily-transited vendor area. I’m also a big proponent of Section II of the Bosque, which is less crowded and has so much to offer!

Hours:

6 am to 6 pm, closed on Mondays.

3) Reserva Ecológica Pedregal de San Ángel (and UNAM Botanical Garden, once re-opened)

The UNAM (National University) Botanical Garden and adjoining ecological reserve may be my favorite Mexico City parks. (Though they’ve got plenty of stiff competition on and off this list!) I love our many forests, but there’s something special to be said for the Pedregal. This southern part of the city is comprised of volcanic bedrock that formed when the volcano Xitle erupted around 11,000 years ago. (Don’t worry, it’s dormant now.) As a result, this area is home to the Pedregal, a totally unique ecosystem. Here, cooling lava formed undulating waves of porous black rock. Many of the Pedregal’s plants and animals can only live here — this reserve is quite literally keeping them alive.

In pre-Covid times, I’d take the Insurgentes Metrobus down towards La Joya, getting off at the Centro Cultural Universitario stop. From there, it’s fairly easy to walk up the road to the botanical garden entrance and/or different parts of the large reserve. As of February 2021, however, the botanical garden itself is still closed. You should be able to access the ecological reserve from its external entrances. Please let me know if you have any issues, so I can update this guide ASAP! Even if the main gates are closed, however, you can enjoy parts of the Pedregal environment simply walking near the Centro Cultural Universitario (Campus Cultural Center) and on the tranquil road leading to the botanical garden. Both the garden and reserve are fantastic spots for birdwatching in the city.

Hours:

The Reserva, located around different parts of the UNAM campus, doesn’t have hours. You can access some parts via gates, and other simply walking around the campus and cultural center. The Botanical Garden is currently closed and I will update as soon as re-opening plans announced.

4) Bosque de Tlalpan & Parque Nacional Fuentes Brotantes

If you find yourself in the south of the city, the Bosque de Tlalpan and nearby Fuentes Brotantes National Park are sprawling, verdant oases of green. Both areas are beloved by runners and picnickers alike. The Bosque de Tlalpan is a standout for me, as it’s fairly accessible even for a car-less grinxicana such as I.

These two Mexico City parks are relatively close to one another. While they have entrances near the Insurgentes Sur Metrobus and other public transport, many families also drive to the parks. Tlalpan is my particular favorite because the green space remains remarkably well-maintained. Clean, well-marked paths lead up and around the foothills. Head here even on the weekend, and you’ll find a wide variety of walks and hikes for every skill level, with plenty of places to socially distance and lose yourself in nature. Fuentes Brotantes is a bit closer to the hills of the Ajusco mountain range, and has both highly developed spots (food stands, a small lake) and wilder areas.

Hours:

The Bosque de Tlalpan is open from 5 am to 5 pm. The only current access point is the main Camino de Santa Teresa entrance. Fuentes Brotantes National Park is open from 9 am to 6 pm. You can access it via the main entrance on Avenida de las Fuentes. Check out some of the wildlife you can find in Fuentes Brotantes here.

5) Parque Bicentenario

If you’re looking for some green space with a heavy dash of inspiring urban renewal, check out one of Mexico City’s youngest parks, the Parque Bicentenario. The story of the Bicentenario is just as interesting as the park itself. Situated in the middle of a bustling working class, semi-industrial area of Azcapotzalco in northern Mexico City, this large park began its life as a Pemex Oil Refinery! Over the years, the refinery closed. The city was faced with the challenge of what to do with the huge industrial space left behind.

In honor of Mexico’s bicentennial celebrations, leaders decided to rehabilitate the ex-refinery into the urban green space that surrounding neighborhoods desperately needed. Today, many of the Bicentenario’s trees are still young and have some growing to do. However, the park already bursts with innovative and much-loved spaces for local families, and it will only improve from here. Check out the different Mexican regional ecosystems just inside the entrance (some are closed off during the pandemic). Then explore the huge fields that stretch beyond, include a large artificial-but-pleasant lake, winding walking paths, a small museum, a skate park, and many picnic spots.

Hours:

Parque Bicentenario is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 7 AM to 6 PM. The main entrance is just across the street from the Refinería Metro stop. My only note here is that mask use wasn’t as good as in other parks. That said, the large open spaces mean you can give others a wide berth.

6) Bosque de Aragón

Located in a heavily urban, working class area of the city, the Bosque de San Juan de Aragón (the Aragon Forest) doesn’t always get the credit it’s due. Since 2015, the city has been revamping the park to restore its full natural and cultural beauty. This green space is vast and diverse, covering 162 hectares (over 17 million square ft.) of Mexico City’s east. Aragón has a storied history: it once formed part of Lake Texcoco, the large body of water upon which ancient Tenochtitlan sat. When the Spanish arrived, they built a hacienda around the area, named after Captain Blas López de Aragón.

These days, the park is popular with runners and fun-seeking families alike for its many trails and well-known zoo. Even migratory waterbirds love Aragón. Herons, ducks, and many other species flock here every year as if deep in their DNA, they still remember when this was part of Lake Texcoco. In “normal” times (pre-Covid), the park puts on many cultural activities, from music to movies.

Hours:

6 am to 6 pm; enter on the Avenida José Loreto Fabela, Colonia San Juan de Aragón. Take the same precautions you would in any large, heavily urbanized green space, avoiding deserted spots and lonely hours of morning and night.

Section B: Wilder Green Spaces

Now let’s look at some great parks that are a little more out-of-the-way. These spots are mostly around the city’s southern mountains and waterways. Here, you can get spectacular views and truly fresh air, often without the crowds. The trade-off is that having a car makes accessing these spaces much, much easier. They’re ideal for day trips, so pack a picnic lunch and get going!

1) Parque Nacional Desierto de los Leones

When I first arrived in Mexico City, I headed to Desierto de los Leones with a few friends on a whim. When we arrived after winding up and up a mountain, I couldn’t believe we were still in Mexico City. This immense, breathtaking national park covers a swath of the southern mountains. After you pass the park’s entrance (and a big pack of very fit mountain bikers), you’ll reach the exconvento, a whimsical stone monastery nestled among the pines.

Visit the monastery (the guided tours are fascinating) and hike through the surrounding paths, which lead you to several crumbling hermitages if you follow the creepy “monk” symbol on the old-school park signage. There are plenty of places to get food and drink, as well as grills and picnic tables. Desierto de los Leones has a truly unique, fairy tale atmosphere. If you’re anything like me, you might just fall in love with the place.

Hours:

The park itself is open Tuesdays through Sundays, 8 am to 5 pm, but the monastery doesn’t open until 10 am. You can take a rideshare car here…but good luck ordering one to get back, as there’s no cell coverage! For best results, drive your car or rent one, following Waze directions south and further south, with the destination “Exconvento Desierto de los Leones.” Bring petty cash for the monastery, food, and parking.

2) Parque Nacional Cumbres del Ajusco

This humungous national park covers an even larger bit of the southern mountains, this time the Sierra del Ajusco. Ajusco comes from an indigenous Nahuatl word meaning roughly “the place of flowers, from which water springs”. The indigenous peoples of the area knew this area’s value long ago: the Ajusco mountain range is the source for much of Mexico City’s water.

Today, many indigenous people continue to call the Ajusco home, dedicating their communities to its preservation. One such effort is the Parque Ejidal San Nicolás Totolapan, the best-known communally owned park in the Ajusco. Covering 2300 hectares (8.8 square miles) of forested mountain, the park charges a small cash fee ($30 pesos the last I’ve seen) to enter. As in many of the area’s green spaces, it can get crowded around the entrance on the weekends, especially around the food and diversion areas. Hike up the mountain paths for both peace and a safer, socially distanced experience.

Hours:

Enter the Parque Ejidal San Nicolás Totolapan from 8 am to 6 am. It’s at Km 11, Picacho-Ajusco 5, Panoramica, but just put its name in a navigation app for a fairly easy trip up, up, and up! A car or round-trip taxi will save you a lot of stress here.

3) Xochimilco’s Wild Side

Many know Xochimilco for its touristy, crowded canals packed with colorful trajinera boats, booze, and mariachis. That’s not ideal for worriers like me in these pandemic times — although I feel deeply for all those who work in tourism there and have had to seek alternatives in 2020 and 2021. But Xochimilco is much more than chelas and La Llorona shows.

In reality, it’s a vast, endangered wetland that provides a crucial home for endemic species and a livelihood for indigenous communities. When you’re ready for something very different from the pine and oyamel-covered mountains, drive or ride down to the Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco, or even the peripheral Bosque de Nativitas, for a taste of this singular ecosystem. In the former, you’ll discover canals and chinampas (agricultural islands), herons and ajolotes, ancient traditions and sunrise views of the volcanoes.

Hours:

9 am to 6 am, enter the Parque Ecológico (Ecological Park) at Periférico Oriente #1 in Colonia Ciénega Grande. In addition, several tour providers offer small-group visits to the park with Covid-19 precautions, including Aztec Explorers.

4) Los Dinamos & La Marquesa

For a beautiful natural experience within the city, you barely need to go past Six Flags before you reach Los Dinamos. Quite a bit further afield, La Marquesa is just outside the city in Estado de Mexico (Mexico State). I grouped these two parks together not because they’re right next to each other, but because they occupy similar places in the hearts and minds of many chilangos. Both have a big jumble of nice, natural green spaces and very family-oriented, crowded areas for food, games, and other outdoor activities. You can even fish for trout and eat it for lunch, though it will come from a very crowded pond that makes it basically impossible not to catch a fish!

My main reservation in recommending Los Dinamos and La Marquesa is that they can get quite crowded on the weekends. But like so many areas on this list, if you get off the beaten track and explore either parks’ trails, chances are you’ll leave the crowds behind.

Hours:

Los Dinamos is open from 6 am to 6:30 pm, while you can visit La Marquesa from 7 am to 7 pm. You can reach either quite easily by car by entering their names into Waze; bring cash for parking and other expenses. Be safe, don’t wander into isolated areas alone, and try not to bring many valuables.

At the end of the day (or rather the post), keep in mind that this is still just a small cross-section of Mexico City’s many outstanding green spaces! This article kept getting longer, and at some point I have to limit my endless enthusiasm. That doesn’t mean, however, that you shouldn’t check out areas like the Bosque de Tlahuac, Parque Tezozómoc, Parque Nacional Cerro de la Estrella, and the slightly smaller parks I mentioned in the intro!

Nevertheless, I tried to focus on the parks that have brought me the most peace and joy during my years in Mexico City. Most of all, these are areas where you can socially distance with relative ease, expect to see others with masks, and in several cases, receive hand sanitizer and a temperature check at the entrance. Now more than ever, it’s important to stay safe in and out of our beloved green spaces.