Atlixco Travel Guide: Charm and Tradition in a Mexican Mountain Town

Just a short drive from Puebla City and a few hours from Mexico City, Atlixco is worlds away from these modern hubs. This mountainous village, overlooking distant Popocatepetl volcano, is one of Mexico’s most charming “pueblos mágicos.” This official designation, literally meaning “magic town,” goes to the country’s most historic, beautiful small towns. Atlixco certainly fits the bill, with some of the best views, architecture, and food in Mexico. After a wonderful visit with friends this winter, I’d love to share some things to do and see in Atlixco.

All About the Pueblo Mágico of Atlixco

Puebla State sits southeast of Mexico City, and is full of lovely small towns, parks, and natural beauty. Atlixco is one of the state’s most popular destinations due to its perfect climate and colonial splendor. The town’s name means “water in the valley” in the indigenous Nahuatl language, and Atlixco is indeed a kind of valley paradise. Although indigenous people had lived in this mountainous valley for centuries, and the Aztec Empire conquered the area, the Spanish officially founded the town in 1579.

Atlixco has a warm, humid microclimate that makes it perfect for growing all kinds of plants — it’s like a big, outdoor greenhouse. Over the years, in fact, that became the magic town’s main industry: known as “Atlixco de las Flores” (Atlixco of the Flowers), the town is still home to many nurseries and flower sellers. This makes it lush and green year-round, even sending lots of cut flowers to the U.S. The flowers, combined with immaculate colonial architecture climbing up the hills, creates stunning vistas.

Things to Do in Atlixco

Eat at the Town Market:

In many cities and villages, you won’t find the best food in the fancy restaurant. It’s in the local market, where dozens of vendors bring regional flavors to the freshest of ingredients. Atlixco, and Puebla State in general, are famous for local delicacies. At the town’s market, Mercado Juárez, try village specialties like Atlixco’s famous chicken-chipotle consommé, and state classics like delicious Mole Poblano and Cemitas (a heavenly Puebla sandwich).

Discover Atlixco’s Historic Churches:

Atlixco is famous for the beauty of its many, many churches. These colonial gems typically feature the Folk Baroque style, which reflects elaborate Spanish tastes and local traditions, materials, and indigenous handiwork. I fell in love with this unique style, which is both ornate and down-to-earth, grandiosely European and colorfully Mexican. San Francisco Monastery and Church, a pared-down 16th Century example, offer gorgeous views. San Agustín Church, with a decorative, bright yellow facade, is my personal favorite.

Climb the Cerro de San Miguel:

When you arrive in Atlixco, you’ll immediately see the Cerro de San Miguel, a hill and colonial church overlooking the town. Every street seems to lead up to it, and you climb and climb before reaching it. Follow any of these steep cobblestone streets up, and you’ll get to the base of the hill. It might appear sketchy, but just head up one of the overgrown trails here — Atlixco is a pretty safe, sleepy town, but I suggest going with friends for peace of mind. Finally, you’ll arrive at the “mirador”: the town’s panoramic overlook. The tiny chapel at the top is often closed to the public, but hosts a pilgrimage the last Sunday of September.

Taste Local Sweets, Coffee, and People Watch in the Zócalo:

The town’s zócalo (main square) is one of the prettiest in Mexico. There’s plenty of nice spots to sit and watch the world go by, but even better, grab an iced coffee on the mosaic-ed terrace at The Italian Coffee Company. To satisfy your sweet tooth, many street vendors sell regional treats. Try camotes (sweet potato candies) or Tortitas de Santa Clara (pumpkin seed and shortbread cookies) for classic Puebla flavors.

Visit the Plant Nurseries:

Atlixco of the Flowers is known nationwide for its viveros (nurseries), so it would be a shame to miss them. They’re a bit outside the town’s center, but you can hail a cab and ask them to take you to the “Viveros de Atlixco.” Enjoy the lush greenery, colorful flowers, and balmy climate. If you’re a millennial, you’ll surely be taking some Insta pics out here.

Check Out the Seasonal Festivities:

Atlixco is a cradle of local tradition, and that extends to its yearly religious and cultural celebrations. The Festival Huey Atlixcayotl in late September brings many visitors to town to honor Quetzalcóatl, the Feathered Serpent God of many Central Mexican peoples. This lively celebration is an incredible experience reflecting regional culture (11 different local cultures!) with dance and artisanry. Day of the Dead brings a spectacular tapete (artistic flower carpet) created by local artisans, and a Catrina (Mexican skeleton) festival on November 2. Finally, the town is famous for its beautiful Festival of Christmas Lights, from December through early January.

How to Get to Atlixco

By Car:

If you’re driving, you can get to Atlixco fairly easily from Mexico City. Take the Autopista (Highway) Mexico-Puebla heading southeast from the capital, and take the Atlixco exit just as you’re passing the town of San Francisco Ocotlán. It should take you 2-3 hours depending on traffic, and bring cash and coins for tolls. That said, if you’re going all the way to Atlixco, it makes much more sense to visit Puebla City, too! This state capital enchants in its own right and is well worth a night’s visit (or more). From Puebla City, just take the Carretera Federal Puebla-Atlixco, and you’ll arrive in about half an hour.

By Bus:

Bus travel is an easy, stress-free way to get to Atlixco, and the method I recommend. Once again, this makes the most sense if you’re staying in Puebla City for at least a night. You can take frequent, cheap, and comfy buses from CAPU, Puebla’s main bus station, to Atlixco. They run every 10-15 minutes and are a great option. Look for the Oro bus line, and expect to pay about 35 pesos. It’ll take around half an hour, and wait til you’re at Atlixco’s tiny bus station to get off. Then just head up, following other passengers, to reach the town center.

Getting to Atlixco is easy and cheap, so there’s really no excuse not to visit. You won’t regret experiencing this charming small town — one of my favorite pueblos mágicos in the country!