Weekend Travel Guide to Acapulco: Sunsets, Spectacular Views, and Staying Safe

In recent years, the sunny beach destination of Acapulco has gotten a bad rap. Google its name, and you’ll find news stories on gang wars and violence. That’s certainly the perception I had of Acapulco before living in Mexico.

Then I watched the Luis Miguel series on Netflix. (I’m only a little embarrassed to admit how much I enjoyed this entertaining, well-acted, and yes a bit soapy show on the life of Mexican pop star Luis Miguel.) The show takes place during the singer’s rise in the 1980s and ’90s, when he lived between Mexico City and Acapulco. But the city that Luis Miguel evokes wasn’t the one I’d encountered in those alarming headlines. This was Acapulco at its peak. Glittering lights curving along a spectacular bay, dramatic cliffs abutting verdant green mountains, and glamorous nightclubs overlooking gorgeous beaches.

The Two Narratives of Acapulco

So how to reconcile these two Acapulcos: the city of gleaming Pacific ocean views, and the one known for its crime and violence? After all, the resort town remains the number one destination for domestic tourism. Each year, hotel occupancy is near 100%, and dozens of major conferences, photoshoots, and festivals take place there. I spoke to many Mexican friends who visit frequently, staying at family condos every year. They assured me things were looking up in Acapulco — that tourism was far separated from the city’s criminal underbelly — and so, in fall 2019, I headed there for a long weekend with a friend. I had to see for myself.

What I found was a fascinating, utterly unexpected blend of past and present, wealth and shabbiness, natural beauty and urban development. The Acapulco of today still oozes charm, with layers of forgotten history existing alongside one another. The ghosts of Filipino and Chinese traders who brought spices and porcelain into port on hulking schooners, ’50s Hollywood stars who once tanned on its beaches, ’80s discotheques pulsating with jet-set nightlife, and the smugglers, from colonial pirates to modern capos, who’ve left their own troubled legacy. They all, somehow, coexist.

Despite this complicated history, I fell in love with Acapulco’s beauty, personality, and rich culture. Here, I’ll share some of my favorite experiences in the Pearl of the Pacific. I’ll also complement these with recommendations on how to have the safest, most enjoyable stay you can.

Watch the Acapulco Sunset over the Pacific

Since Acapulco is known as a highly developed, built-up resort town, nothing really prepares you for its rugged, dramatic coastline. There’s no doubt the city is overdeveloped, its rocky cliffs studded with hundreds of high rise hotels and condos. But in those areas that have been left mostly alone (mainly on the western side of the city, just uphill from Playa Langosta), you can drink in one of Mexico’s most utterly spectacular sunset views.

Sinfonía del Mar

Take one of Acapulco’s famous VW Bug taxis to Sinfonía del Mar or Playa Langosta to begin your sunset walk. I preferred the slightly longer walk from Playa Langosta, because I got to enjoy the beginning of the sunset from more vantage points, and by the time the most dramatic view was revealed, it felt supremely satisfying. Sinfonía del Mar (Symphony of the Sea) is a lovely, open-air theater, its curved seats leading to a sun mosaic stage perched directly above the churning Pacific. When you’ve had your fill of views and snapshots there, continue walking up the sea-walk to La Quebrada (The Ravine).

La Quebrada

This remarkable spot is home Acapulco’s most beloved sunset view, a place where locals and visitors gather nightly. It’s essentially a craggy cliff that drops dramatically down to the sea, with steps and a winding path heading down towards the final lookout. At the top, pay a small fee (no more than 45 pesos I believe) to enter, then slowly make your way down.

My favorite view was at the top of the swirling path, where you can drink in the cliffs (so eye-catching that they look carved, sculpted into the rock), the sea, the beauty of the path itself, and the full scope of the sky. I would go here every night if I could, every sunset a wholly new phenomenon waiting to be discovered. (Since you can’t be there right now, check out the fantastic local photographer Allan Bañuelos @acawanderer for many of these spectacular views.) Acapulco is just another example of Mexico’s seemingly endless natural riches.

Let Acapulco’s Legendary Cliff Divers Take Your Breath Away

Once you’re at La Quebrada, there’s more in store for you than an unforgettable sunset. After the sun sinks down below the sea, the sky darkens, and the coast lights up with lanterns. Then, some skinny local kids will climb up onto the cliff on the opposing side of the gorge. But these are no ordinary adolescents… they’re the famous quebradistas of Acapulco, the cliff divers!

One by one, they’ll leap from different points on the 45-meter high cliff face into the water, outlined by jagged rocks that line the dark ravine. The quebradistas start lower down, gradually jumping from higher and higher spots until the final daredevil, who leaps down from the very top of the cliff. It’s exciting, anxiety-inducing, and breathtaking in the most literal sense. Not to be missed.

If you have time before the sunset and cliff-divers, head up to the Casa de los Vientos, the famed home of socialite and art collector Dolores Olmedo. She was the long-time patron of Mexican artist Diego Rivera, who created a beautiful mosaic for the house’s entryway. Today, the house is a cultural center you can visit Monday through Friday.

Delve Into Acapulco History at the Fuerte de San Diego

Acapulco is famous for its 20th century heyday, but this city has a much longer, genuinely compelling history that many visitors know little about. By far the best place to play catch up is the Fuerte de San Diego (San Diego Fort), an 18th century citadel that overlooks Acapulco Bay and the inland mountains from a lush hilltop.

I hopped on one of Acapulco’s colorful, spray-painted pesero buses to climb the hill, getting off at the fort’s entrance. Today, the Fuerte de San Diego is the Acapulco History Museum. The fort is in a five-point star formation made from thick, cool stone, providing a welcome respite from the city’s legendary heat and humidity. Each point of the pentagram holds exhibits on the port’s history, from its beginnings as a holding of the Aztec Empire (Acapulco most likely means “The Place in which Reeds Abound” in the Aztec language Nahuatl) to colonial port and beyond. Especially interesting is the exhibit on the “Nau Chino,” the trade corridor between Asia and Mexico, and its effects on both Asian and Mexican culture, food, art, and more. The room showing Acapulco’s storied heyday as a destination for American and Mexican movie stars is fun as well!

Get a Taste of Old Hollywood at Hotel Los Flamingos

Speaking of classic movie stars jet-setting to Acapulco Bay, no discussion would be complete without mentioning Hotel Los Flamingos. I’m a big fan of everything Old Hollywood, and this was always one of Acapulco’s main attractions for me. Glamorous photographs of Marilyn on the beach, the Kennedy’s on honeymoon, Frank Sinatra in a nightclub crooning:

“Come fly with me, come fly, let’s fly away; Just say the word and we’ll beat the birds down to Acapulco Bay…”

There aren’t many places left where you can get a sense of Old Acapulco, the city that movie stars of the Golden Age once roamed. Most of that city is covered with modern condos and resorts, shiny new bars and nightclubs. But at Hotel Los Flamingos, time stands still.

History and Glamour at Los Flamingos

When the Hollywood star Johnny Weissmuller (best known for his role as Tarzan) first came to midcentury Acapulco, he fell in love. Soon after, he decided to build his own hotel in the coastal paradise. And so he did: Hotel Los Flamingos, a bright pink, modern joint perched precariously on splendid cliffs facing the ocean. In its heyday, the hotel was luxurious and swank: Cary Grant, Orson Welles, and John Wayne hanging out in the pool with their good friend Johnny. These days, Hotel Los Flamingos has been frozen in time.

The era of glamour and Hollywood stars has come and gone for this slightly care-worn spot, but so have the sky-high prices. Now you can spend $60-$70 USD a night for a comfy bed, or $15 for a meal, and watch one of Acapulco’s most stunning sunsets while sipping one of the hotel’s famous Cocos Locos. It really is an Old Hollywood time warp, tucked away in a quiet corner of this lively city.

If you have time, check out Hotel Boca Chica for a more subdued, minimalist take on classic Acapulco style. Boca Chica is a fancier (and definitely pricier) Midcentury Modern hotel featured in many photo shoots, perfect if you’re looking for an upscale retro experience.

Indulge in Local Acapulqueño Cuisine

Seafood

Most people I asked about food in Acapulco told me, “Meh.” And it’s true, the food at fancy hotels and restaurants honestly didn’t impress me much. But there is good food in Acapulco, just not necessarily at these tourist traps! As you’re staring out into the Pacific Ocean, I’m sure seafood will be on your mind. My favorite spot was Buzo’s, a classic restaurant right in front of the beach on the main bay. The caldo de camarón (spicy shrimp stew) was the best I’ve ever had! The molcajete de mariscos was a steaming, flavorful array of seafood, from fresh octopus to fish. But really, almost anything here will be delicious.

Pozole Verde

Another local specialty might not sound as appetizing in such a hot, muggy climate: pozole verde, a thick stew made with pork and hominy. If you can find a good air-conditioned spot and cool down, it’s well worth it! Head to a local restaurant on a Thursday to enjoy a bowl.

Dance a Traditional Danzón with Acapulco Locals in the Zócalo

Walking along the costera — the sea drive that twists and turns along Acapulco’s bays — a typical bus passed by, spray painted with Snoopy or The Simpsons or who knows. (They’re all like this, and all unique!). “Hop on, güera! We’re headed to the Zócalo!”

I didn’t take this cheery driver up on his offer. Later, though, I trekked through the humidity myself, huffing and puffing up the coast to the zócalo, Acapulco’s main plaza. In many Mexican towns and cities, this main square is the literal town center. Here, however, it’s just off the ocean. Other than that, it contains all the charms of every Mexican zócalo, with a particular Acapulqueño flair. Young couples flirt, families take a paseo (stroll) with ice cream, and music is always playing somewhere. On my Friday evening visit, I lucked out and wandered into the weekly Danzón party. A large group of locals was enjoying this traditional, waltz-like dance style. I suddenly understood why the older woman I’d seen on a bus earlier had been so beautiful dressed, in head-to-toe white with high heels. Here she was at the Zócalo, swirling away!

Tips to Maximize Your Time and Stay Safe While in Acapulco:

1. Be conscious of your belongings:

I never felt unsafe while in Acapulco. That said, take the normal precautions you would in any large city where theft occurs. Don’t bring valuables around with you. (I chose not to take my camera, and instead made do with phone photos for this visit.) Don’t leave your beach bag with phone, cash, cards, etc. unattended, instead bringing only the essentials if you’re going for a swim.

2. Think carefully before going out to nightclubs:

I’m not much of a partier or nightclub-goer. When I went to Acapulco, I was more interested in relaxation than going out. That said, the city is well known for its nightlife, and you may be tempted to go out while you’re here. There are many high-end clubs, and most likely you’ll have no problem — crime targeting tourists is very uncommon in Acapulco. However, when tourists have been caught in the crossfire of narcotrafficking-related conflict, it’s been at nightclubs. This is because wealthy traffickers can target each other at this type of establishment. So to be abundantly cautious, I don’t recommend going to clubs here. Pick up wine, beer, liquor, whatever you’d like at the many supermarkets on the costera. Then enjoy them by the ocean, pool, or hot tub!

3. Stay in Acapulco Dorado in AirBnB for a low-budget trip

If you don’t plan on renting a car, I highly recommend getting an AirBnb apartment along the costera road, officially called Miguel Alemán. This will ensure that you can walk to most major spots: the beach, the supermarket, secure taxi stops (paradas), and an assortment of restaurants.

4. Visit during the off-season

If you head to Acapulco during semana santa (Easter week), or Mexican summer and winter school vacations, the beaches will be packed. It’s really no fun to go during these times! But wait until fall, and you can spend a much quieter, more enjoyable vacation on empty beaches. From around September to November, you’ll have Acapulco largely to yourself.

5. Get a resort day pass for a taste of Acapulco luxury

If you’re jonesing for a taste of the good life, there are plenty of fabulous resorts around Acapulco. Rather than paying through your teeth for a room, hop in a cab and enjoy a day there! We spent a very tranquil day in the Princess resort, taking full advantage of the buffet, quiet beach, and pool. For around $25 USD, we got a full day there, with a large credit to get food at the hotel. The taxi from downtown Acapulco to the resort area isn’t cheap (not by my peso-salaried standards, anyway). It cost around $300 pesos, or $15 USD at the time, in each direction. But if you need that luxurious experience, it will still be pennies compared to even a one night stay at the resort.

5. Bring cash for taxis and street vendors

Finally, don’t count on using your Uber or Didi app while in Acapulco. Ride-sharing is banned, and the seemingly endless number of taxistas in their blue and white VW vochos reign supreme. These taxis aren’t cheap, either. Plan on bringing several hundred pesos, depending on how far you plan on going. Be sure to haggle and establish a price before getting in. And if you find a great taxi driver, don’t be shy about asking for his card, especially if you want to go farther along the coast on future days.

Bring some extra cash in case a restaurant doesn’t accept card (always a good rule of thumb in Mexico), and to support local vendors. There are some really nice, non-pushy folks on the beach who sell everything from mango to coconuts to fresh oysters.

Final Reflection

Everywhere I went in Acapulco, I was the only foreigner. Even as Acapulco has remained a wildly popular domestic tourism destination, negative press and alarming headlines have scared away the spring breakers (hey, I’m not complaining). While I certainly felt very visible as the only gringa around, locals were consistently kind, warm, and welcoming. Frankly, many folks seemed happy, and maybe a little surprised, to see a foreign visitor — at least outside of the resorts. I came for Acapulco’s renowned coastline and storied sunsets. I stayed for the city’s lively personality, friendly spirit, and sense of fun.